Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Almanac inquiry - What are the different customs of celebrating the Spring Festival in different parts of China?
What are the different customs of celebrating the Spring Festival in different parts of China?
Heng Chong said that Fuzhou people began to be busy with the New Year as early as December 24 of the lunar calendar. According to the tradition of Fuzhou people, no killing is allowed after the 24th day of the twelfth lunar month, so the meat to be eaten in the first month must be prepared before that. At home, women hang the killed chickens and pigs on the ceiling, dry them, stew them, and put them in an urn to pickle them with wine and various ingredients.
Hou Hengchong said that such a jar of dishes is not only delicious on the reunion dinner table, but also can often be eaten until the end of the month.
On New Year's Eve, before having a reunion dinner, Fuzhou people should worship their ancestors first. Among the many sacrifices, Hou Hengchong was most impressed by horseshoes and rice cakes. Horseshoe grows in the field and has strong vitality. I hope the ancestors will bless the meaning of the family heirs.
Fuzhou people's rice cakes are different from those common in the local market. They are as big as trays and have different tastes. Therefore, every year, Fuzhou Guild Hall will order rice cakes for its members, so that villagers can taste the rice cakes with unique Fuzhou flavor.
When offering sacrifices to ancestors, the rice cake should be sliced and fried, and then put on a plate for sacrifice. Fuzhou people attach great importance to rice cakes. In addition to ancestor worship, the rice cake is also a dessert on the reunion dinner table. Even if you don't eat them, they are indispensable on the table. In addition, red-cooked chicken, Fuzhou fish balls and meat swallows are also delicious on the table of Fuzhou people.
Fuzhou people also have an interesting annual custom. After the reunion dinner, parents should wipe their children's mouths with toilet paper, which means the children are talking nonsense. If the child says something wrong, I hope the gods will not blame him.
On the first day of New Year's Day, Fuzhou people have to make sacrifices to heaven before going out to pay a New Year call, and bamboo rice is a necessary sacrifice. Rice is served in a bamboo container with a paper red flower and chopsticks around it, which means to pray to heaven.
According to tradition, Fuzhou people eat a peaceful bowl on this day. That's noodles soaked in red fermented chicken soup, with two eggs added to it. Now someone has replaced it with quail eggs. As the name implies, flat ones can be safely eaten.
Hou Hengchong remembers that the Lantern Festival in Fuzhou is also very lively. Worship is a big festival, and the atmosphere of the festival is pushed to a climax by drums, crowds and firecrackers.
Hou Hengchong returned to Singapore at the age of 20 on 1959. For decades, due to various factors, the traditional customs of Fuzhou people have not been completely preserved.
Hou Hengchong said, for example, many Fuzhou families have joined non-Fuzhou members. In order to adapt to the eating habits and preferences of different native members, these families have to add some non-Fuzhou food, so that the food on the reunion dinner table is no longer just Fuzhou food.
He said: "This is the result of the changes of the times. Older Fuzhou people, don't be stubborn. Under the principle of harmony, we should make appropriate adjustments in line with the times. "
Chinese New Year Customs in Old Shanghai
The Spring Festival has lasted for thousands of years in China. But for a long time, the term "Spring Festival" refers to the "beginning of spring" among the 24 solar terms in a year. It was not until the Revolution of 1911 overthrew the Manchu rule and the Republic of China was founded that Sun Yat-sen ordered the whole country to switch to the solar calendar. Later, the New Year will also be changed to New Year's Day in the solar calendar. But after all, the Lunar New Year has become a traditional festival celebrated by the whole people, and it is difficult to change the solid local customs and national culture. The celebration of the Lunar New Year is still endless year after year. Since there is a new New Year's Day in the solar calendar, the Lunar New Year has been called "Spring Festival" in the solar terms since the Republic of China.
In the old days, it entered the "New Year" from the 65438+February 23rd of the lunar calendar and continued until the Lantern Festival on the 15th day of the first month, forming a set of fixed programs. Let's see how Shanghai celebrated the New Year in the past.
The 24th of the twelfth lunar month, that is, the 24th of December, is the day when the Kitchen God plays a role in the sky. Therefore, on the evening of 23rd, every household should "send a stove" and "offer a stove" to celebrate the New Year. In the evening, every household worships the Kitchen God in the hall. More often, wine and fruit are placed on the kitchen with the image of the Kitchen God, and water chestnuts, clams, good fish and good meat are also provided. There is a bamboo cloud: "fame and fortune are prosperous and less right and wrong, all depending on the sky." There is nothing to offer at present. Fish buy fresh meat and fat meat. "
Kitchen God is going to report the human quality and human faults to the Jade Emperor for one year. In order to prevent him from going too far, people also offered candy ingots made of caramel when he sent them to the kitchen stove. It is said that it is to make him eat and stick his teeth, to make him unable to speak clearly, to make him talk less and not to speak ill of the world. When "sending the stove", all the points are incense sticks. It was night, cigarettes filled the room, and the offerings were dazzling, and the atmosphere of the New Year came at once.
The 25th day of the twelfth lunar month is the day when immortals descend to earth. Traditionally, every household has to dust inside and outside, remove the accumulated dust for one year, and clean up the sundries accumulated at ordinary times. This move is quite serious, and in today's words, it can be called an active and orderly mass health movement. After this day's work, every household is dirty, the supplies are better than before, and the appearance is fresh inside and outside, like a New Year's Eve.
From this day on, every household began to be busy with all aspects of the Spring Festival. The first thing is to buy and prepare all kinds of food for the New Year. Every family must also grind flour to make dumplings, and some families make rice cakes with flour. The former means "round and round", while the latter can mean "happy" and "high every year". The second is to prepare new clothes, new hats and new shoes. People may wear old clothes all the year round, but they must examine their "clothes" in the new year. Once again, I began to buy Spring Festival couplets, New Year pictures and "door gods" and put them on the doors, upstairs and downstairs. During this period, in order to meet the needs of the public, many kinds of such things appeared in the market. Every family also needs its own things. For example, when buying Spring Festival couplets, the store will choose "the business is booming all over the world, and the financial resources are reaching the Three Rivers", while the average household will choose "the sky is increasing, the people are increasing, the spring is full, and Kunming is beaming".
This period is also the busiest time for shops in the middle of the year. On the one hand, business is booming and sales are booming. On the other hand, the end of the year is the period when each family cleans up the current accounts for one year and asks the debtor for arrears. So each family sent someone to handle this matter, and a large-scale "debt collection" team appeared in the city: "Cross the street from east to west with bills in cloth bags. Step into the heavy door and call it, and the husband will be together. " There are many people who can't repay on time for various reasons. Debt collectors have great responsibilities and pursue hardships, often day and night, regardless of the cold day and night.
Among those who can't pay their bills on time, in fact, many people are completely unable to pay their bills. In addition to the debts owed to the store, these people probably owe personal debts. The end of the year is also the time when most debts are paid off, so these people are under pressure from two sides to ask for money. However, according to the usual practice, debt collection and debt collection can only be done on New Year's Eve, but not on New Year's Eve. It is unlucky to blame yourself for "bad luck". Therefore, the New Year's Eve dinner is the last pass for those who evade debts. If they escape this, next year will be another matter. So they have been dealing with debt collectors and trying their best to get through this New Year's Eve: "The creditors who are riddled with holes have come, and it is difficult to get them back without any plans. I have to go on stage today to avoid it, and I will drive it away after dawn. "
However, except for the poor people mentioned above, on the whole, when the New Year comes, everyone is inevitably extremely happy and in high spirits. After all the preparations mentioned above, the New Year's Eve that we are looking forward to every day has finally come to our eyes, and the celebration of the New Year has reached a climax.
The beauty of New Year's Eve is at sunset. In the evening, all the families gather indoors, even those who are far away from home, try to go home and spend the New Year with their families before. Everyone sat under the lamp, eating the "New Year's Eve", eating and drinking, talking and laughing, and eating this meal for a long time. This is a year of trying to enjoy family happiness, hence the name "Family Happiness".
This night is next to the Chinese New Year, so many family elders don't sleep after the New Year's Eve. Still talking and laughing, eating omnivores. People don't think this night is deeper and longer. At midnight, some people will go to temples in the city to burn "head incense".
At the time of the crow, every household, men, women and children, put on new clothes, hats and shoes, and worship the heavens and the earth and ancestors in the hall where offerings have already been arranged. Then, young people and old people pay New Year greetings to their parents. They distribute the lucky money prepared many years ago to their children. This is the long-awaited hope of the children, and they finally happily put it in their pockets. Then open the door to let the explosions welcome the new year, and meet the neighbors to celebrate the new year.
Every day from the first day of junior high school is a time when friends and relatives return to pay New Year greetings. When guests bring more gifts, they must treat them to "Yuanbao tea", that is, put olives in the tea or put an olive on the tea cover. He also offered fruit in a golden lacquer plate and said, "Congratulations!" " . I will treat you to wine and rice. At that time, the elders had to send lucky money when they saw the younger generation, which was inevitably a big burden for those who were financially strapped. However, this new year greeting method was simplified in Shanghai in the late Qing Dynasty. People who have a lot of contacts go out to pay New Year's greetings, and often just throw a thorn for them, which can save entertainment and expenses: "In exchange for new peaches and new colors, the robe is short to the door. Who is most afraid of frequent bending and rushing to throw thorns for the New Year. "
In the new year, in addition to visiting each other to celebrate the New Year, the rest of the time is to "celebrate" with various travel and entertainment activities. Some people go out for a stroll, and the most visited places are the City God Temple and the connected West Garden (that is, Yuyuan Garden): "There is nothing to do in the New Year, so you can take a walk in the zigzag bridge in the garden. Suddenly I heard the children clap their hands together and the kite shook for a long time. " However, since the establishment of the modern concession, the colorful Shili Yangchang has become a fascinating amusement place in the New Year, especially for those who live outside the Yangchang: "People in the city love the Yangchang, while people outside the city compete for the Temple Garden. At the same time, they are generally willing to watch, and everyone is speechless. " Others go out to the theatre, listen to books and have tea. After the opening of the port, there was a lot of prostitution in and out of Shanghai's foreign exchange. Some people took advantage of this period to travel wildly, so they were busy with fireworks everywhere: "The new year weather mirror is polished, and money is like a shuttle. There are thousands of Chuting in Qian Qian in Qin Lou, and there are many laughs at the opening of the fruit bowl "; Of course, more people often stay at home, and indoor fun can be found by themselves, such as inviting relatives and friends to build a "square city", playing drums and playing the piano, singing by themselves, and so on: "Food, new clothes and happiness make people old, and thousands of people borrow common names. Every household is closed for three days (referring to merchants), not the sound of cards or drums. "
On the fifth day of the first month, it is the birthday of the God of Wealth (commonly known as the "Road God"), and there are actions of "connecting with the God of Wealth", "connecting with the God of Wealth" and "connecting with the Road God" everywhere. The god of wealth talks about "wealth", and everyone pays attention to it, especially businessmen who start businesses for wealth, so their celebration is the most energetic. Shanghai has long been a prosperous commercial city in the southeast, and businesses can be seen everywhere. It is conceivable that the celebration of the fifth day is particularly intense. Businessmen get more than three kinds of sacrifices from the god of wealth: pig head, carp and rooster. Carp lovers, homophonic "Li Yu", are particularly popular. As early as a few days ago, villagers from rural areas were selling fresh carp to various pockets in the streets and alleys. Carp is also called "silver ingot fish", so it is called "sending silver ingots".
On the fifth day of the fifth grade, a new portrait of Marshal Zhao was hung in the middle of the merchant hall. Except for three sacrifices, the other sacrifices are extremely rich. Incense candles were lit and the house was brightly lit. Then, firecrackers were set off indoors and outdoors, one after another, and the whole city roared and the sound shocked hundreds of miles. And continuously, its sound and strength are too strong for the first morning: "firecrackers can't be picked up, and the god of wealth is busy fighting." I just hope that business will be good this year. Why not pick me up at the fifth watch? "
Finally, it is the fifteenth Lantern Festival. The expiration of May coincides with the reunion and is for good luck. On this day, every family must eat "Yuanxiao", which means reunion and good luck. But the prosperity of the Lantern Festival lies in "lights", so it is also called "Lantern Festival". It is a big lantern in front of every household and shop, and it is also a big lantern in public places such as temples, gardens and squares. After sunset, all the lights are put together, connected together, and the red light shines. Lanterns have various shapes, including various lanterns, plant lanterns, animal lanterns, character lanterns, story lanterns and so on. The most common lanterns in Shanghai are rabbit lanterns, ingot lanterns and lantern lanterns, among which the biggest and most wonderful one is the "dragon lantern": the dragon has a head and a tail, the scales are flashing, it is * * * long, and it has a long handle, which is held by the dragon dancer. There is also a special person holding a "rolling lantern" like a big ball, playing with the dragon's body, chasing and even fighting. They are dancing in the streets of Shanghai.
At that time, men, women and children will appear in groups. Chenghuang Temple and Xiyuan Garden are also the center of an activity. It is a pavilion decorated with colored lights, bright inside and outside. In the garden, there is a big rockery and high rocks, and fireworks are set off, which is the most attractive. The audience who came here jostled shoulder to shoulder, all smiling. In addition to watching lanterns, this Lantern Festival has a special "popularity": the so-called "ten-mile bead curtain does not roll, and the lantern watcher looks at the lantern watcher" is that unique artistic conception. The midnight snack will last until late at night, and everyone will walk home slowly after lights out. There is a saying that this day happened to be the day when the kitchen god returned, so he just caught up with the kitchen god when he went home.
At the coming dawn, this year's Spring Festival celebrations have come to an end. (Text/Zheng)
Chongming Spring Festival custom
Spring Festival is an important festival in China folk tradition. It is the first festival in all seasons, so people pay special attention to it. As the saying goes, "a hundred miles of different winds, a thousand miles of different customs." Due to the unique region of this county, the customs of Spring Festival vary slightly from place to place. Now collect some scenes and shots around the Spring Festival over the years, and indulge with readers.
24 nights
People who have worked hard for a year have been busy having a good Spring Festival since the 23rd day of the lunar calendar1February. The thirteenth or twenty-fourth day of the twelfth lunar month is collectively called "twenty-four nights". According to legend, this day is the day when the kitchen god goes to heaven, and there is a folk custom of sending the kitchen god to heaven. On this night, people cook with "rolled silver bags" (with green vegetables, arrows, tofu, etc. As fillings, venetian blinds wrapped), "Twenty-four Fragrances" and red bean rice are used as sacrificial food. The custom of lighting incense sticks to sacrifice to the Kitchen God, preparing paper money, tying colorful bridges, kowtowing to worship, then setting off firecrackers and using the front curtain (commonly known as "happy string") for the statue of the Kitchen God has been eliminated, but the ancient custom of eating red bean rice and rolling silver bags still exists. After 24 nights, every household is getting more and more busy, cleaning up inside and outside, commonly known as dusting eaves, washing bedding, brewing wine, frying peanuts and broad beans and purchasing food. People in urban and rural areas on the island generally grind steamed cakes, and this custom has continued to this day. Because "Gao" and "Gao" are homophonic, people are looking for a good oral color that is high every year. There are different ways to make cakes in different parts of the country. Steamed sponge cake is the main sand, steamed sticky cake is in the middle area and steamed sole cake is the main sand. Poor families use sorghum flour and white jade rice as the main raw materials for steamed cakes. In addition, people should prepare some things, such as tin foil, paper money, incense sticks, gold ingots, tea and fruits, as sacrifices to God. A few days before New Year's Eve, people will put up new Spring Festival couplets, hang up their ancestors, hang their portraits on the main wall of nave, arrange sacrifices, and burn incense at the time of New Year's Eve to let the younger generation pay a New Year call. Before New Year's Eve, people will also play hoarding games, that is, put lime into sacks and print them on the ground, hoping that there will be Man Cang in the coming year. These activities are gone now. Some farmers also put the garbage and useless chores and weeds in the city into the field and set them on fire in order to be auspicious and safe in the coming year.
New Year's Eve
December 30th of the lunar calendar is New Year's Eve, commonly known as New Year's Day. On this day, all the new year's furnishings are properly arranged, such as writing Spring Festival couplets and putting up doors. In the evening, the whole family, old and young, get together for dinner, and the food is much richer than usual. The main course is cooked with Chinese cabbage and tofu, and wrapped in venetian blinds, which is called rolling money bundle, to show that the financial resources will come in the coming year. This evening is the happiest day for children, because parents and elders give lucky money. In the old society, this day was very difficult for people who had no money. According to the old rules, when the debts were paid off, they could not be collected at the end of the year. They can't be forced to collect debts before the lights are turned off in early February, so the creditors send people to collect debts everywhere, and those who can't pay their debts have to hide around until the first day of the new year. Therefore, there used to be a saying that "grain farmers are young and strong, and they are sad when they have no money."
the Spring Festival; Chinese New Year
The first day of the first lunar month is the Spring Festival, commonly known as the Spring Festival. The first thing every household does in the early morning of 2008 is to set off firecrackers, which is called "opening the door". Its original intention is to exorcise evil spirits, and later it means to open the door and make a fortune. During the Spring Festival, adults and children all put on new clothes and dress neatly, and the whole family sits around the dining table. * * * There was a hearty breakfast, mainly vegetarian, with glutinous rice balls and sugar rice cakes to show family reunion. In the last 24 nights, a bowl of red bean rice, commonly known as "old rice", was added to the breakfast, which meant a good meal every other year. After breakfast, the children greet their neighbors, relatives and elders one after another. There are many taboos on the first day of the first month. You can't use knives, splash water, go to the water bridge to wash rice, sweep the floor, open the back door, move firewood, swear words, hit people, stay up too late and so on. Even the firewood for cooking should be put in the furnace hall with sesame stalks and soybean stalks, making a crackling sound. The brighter the fire, the more auspicious it is, which indicates that everything will be fine this year. In addition, on the morning of the third and fifth day of each year, every family should make breakfast and light incense before meals, hoping that the whole family will be prosperous and safe.
In the past, there were more beggars during the Spring Festival. There was a beggar who begged not because his family was poor, but for filial piety. Some people say that there is a death gate for the elderly to live to 998 1 year-old, and only by eating "100 meals" can they spend it safely. Therefore, the filial sons and daughters took the old people out to beg for food for their parents on the first day of the Spring Festival. There is also a beggar, commonly known as "beggar". The way they beg is very funny. Some beggars wrap vegetable heads in red paper and hang them on bamboo poles. Every time they come to a house, they say that the vegetable head has arrived, business is good, and they ask for charity. This is called "delivering vegetable heads". Some people make cows out of paper and bamboo silk, and say good words and auspicious words in front of every house for charity. This is called "sending a spring cow". Some people hold branches of holly or cypress and hang some small bells on the branches to show that their families will be like cash cows in the new year. This is the so-called "cash cow". Beggars in some companies, wearing Buddhist shirts and statues and masks, rushed into houses disguised as the God of Wealth to show that the God of Wealth had arrived. This is called "jumping to the God of Wealth". Chongming people lived in poverty in the old society, but when they met beggars from these enterprises, they were still charitable and gave them some food such as dry food. After liberation, these ways of running enterprises have long since disappeared.
In the eyes of Hainan people, all folk customs are artificially created according to people's will and will. Therefore, in Hainan dialect, all folk behaviors begin with the word "do", such as doing Qingming and working as a wife (that is, getting married), while northerners "celebrate the New Year" and Hainan dialect calls it "do the Year". It should be noted that "Chinese New Year" means "Chinese New Year", that is, celebrating the Spring Festival. In the north, New Year is celebrated, while in Hainan, it is called "New Year". However, in the rural areas of Hainan, the "New Year" of that year was not "over".
As the saying goes in Hainan, "Year is afraid of Mid-Autumn Festival, month is afraid of 15th". As soon as the Mid-Autumn Festival is over, the countryside is preparing for the "New Year": castrating cocks, filling fat ducks, keeping domestic pigs in captivity and preparing lucky money. As soon as we enter the end of December of the lunar calendar, the atmosphere of "Chinese New Year" is getting stronger and stronger!
The first one is1February 24, when "bordeaux" was released. Legend has it that "Duke Zao" is a god sent by the Jade Emperor to supervise good and evil, and he reports to the Jade Emperor on this day every year. To this end, every household should use bamboo sticks or bamboo branches to clean the front, back, inside and outside, up and down of the house, and the incense burner should also be cleaned and replaced with new ashes. In the evening, wine and fruit were prepared as sacrifices to see "bordeaux" off.
As soon as "bordeaux" was delivered, the head of the family was busy "going to the market". In the past, the "city" of villages and towns was 365 days a year, and it was only a few days ago that they made a fortune! Sell Three Birds, Gold and Silver Incense Candles, Beijing Fructose Cake, "Doll Painting" (New Year Pictures), "Wang Le Plaster" (that is, wandering around the rivers and lakes), bowls, chopsticks, pottery pots, "Chinese New Year oranges", all kinds of clothes ... buy them when they are sold, pork, dried vegetables and wet vegetables (fast food farmers carry the burden and push the new year's goods with their cars. They took out all their hard-earned money for a year! These days have produced a year of energy consumption!
The acquaintances of the "French Year City" met and asked each other: "Second brother! Is the' castrated chicken' (that is, the castrated cock) obese? " "Three sister-in-law! Was there a' capon' in those days? " "Three old ladies! Do children who work in your home (that is, your home) want to come back for the New Year? " "Two male! Do you have an annual review in Nanyang (referring to the New Year letter sent back by relatives in Nanyang)? "
People are full of the joy of "New Year". They paste the bought New Year pictures in the living room, put couplets on the lintels, and some people paste "profit-making" red paper on furniture and fruit trees. A few days ago, every household was busy soaking glutinous rice, grinding rice pulp and making rice cakes, while Wenchang and other places were busy making rice candy and peanut candy (these rice cakes were made a lot, both for personal use and for gifts, and they were usually eaten until the end of the month).
At this time, all the dignitaries, literati, peddlers, drivers, grandfathers, and cash-strapped people who worked in large, medium and small cities returned to their hometown of birth and growth. ...
There is a two-part allegorical saying in Hainan, "Thirty nights-the anvil can't be idle". Because in Hainan, no matter how poor people are, they have to kill chickens and ducks when they borrow money or rice on the thirtieth day of the twelfth lunar month. Seven bowls of braised pork, trotters, meat dishes and vegetarian dishes were placed on the Eight Immortals table in front of the incense burner, and firecrackers were set off after the ancestor worship ceremony. When the food is cold enough, they will take it down and eat New Year's Eve around the stove. On New Year's Eve, men, women and children put on new clothes after bathing, which means to say goodbye to the old and welcome the new. Even in the era of tickets, kerosene is usually saved. From the evening of the 30th, the lights were on in the room, and the family had lights all day and night, which lasted for several days until the next morning. Commonly known as "lighting a lamp", it means "adding Ding to make a fortune". On New Year's Eve, many people stayed up all night until the first day of the Lunar New Year. At this time, according to the time, every household is rushing to pay New Year greetings, which means "Spring Festival". Then the younger generation kowtows, salutes and congratulates the elders, and the elders give them "lucky money".
On the morning of the first day, people, old and young, have to get up and eat "fast food" (that is, clean and white to commemorate their ancestors). "Vegetarianism" is not only similar to Muslim halal food, but also just like northerners must eat fish (for more than one year) during the New Year. What they eat must have auspicious meanings, including fried eggplant (which means eggplant is getting better every year in Hainan dialect), fried celery (which is homophonic with "Qin" and "hard work", I hope the whole family will work hard in the new year) and long fans (which means living).
There are many taboos in Chinese New Year: you can't carry water (you should fill the water tank on New Year's Eve), you can't sweep the floor (even if firecrackers and scraps of paper are scattered all over the floor, you can't sweep away the "God of Wealth"), you can't scold each other, you can't fight, you can't break utensils (meaning "harmony"), and you must say good wishes for the New Year when you meet. ...
The customs of New Year greetings vary from place to place in Hainan. In some places, New Year's greetings are celebrated on the second day of the first year, but they are tasteless on the fourth day of the third year. In some places, people can't pay New Year greetings at home on the first day. In New Year's greetings, oranges or orange leaves are usually added to the gifts to express "good luck this year".
The next day, the married daughter took her husband and children back to her family to pay a New Year call. If she goes back to her mother's house to celebrate the New Year in the first year of marriage, she will bring her own firecrackers and show her a string of firecrackers in front of the door. A daughter and son-in-law pays a New Year call to her parents-in-law, which is the most solemn New Year call. On this day, the rest of the family (especially the elders) should stay at home and accept their congratulations. Parents-in-law should prepare a sumptuous banquet. When the daughter and son-in-law leave in the afternoon, they should give their daughter candy and rice cakes wrapped in red paper as "welcome".
On the third day of the third year, some places in Hainan are called "fried test", that is, the dry rice, chicken and duck heads and feet specially cooked on New Year's Eve are fried in a frying pan before eating, to show that there is still surplus from last year to this year, which also means that one year has passed.
References:
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