A representative dynasty in the history of makeup in China.

First of all, it depends on when China's makeup originated. During the Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties, Chinese women's lead powder clothing began to rise, that is, "three generations took lead as powder". Yin substitutes red and blue flowers, juicing and solidifying to make rouge. It was just a skin, and then it entered the painting period. Thrush is the most popular and common makeup method in China. After a long time, aesthetics began to change. Later, someone changed his face, resulting in light makeup, heavy makeup and bright makeup.

With the origin, people will pursue it. The most prosperous period of ancient makeup in China was the Qin and Han Dynasties. At that time, women in both noble and civilian classes paid attention to their own appearance decoration.

An ornament worn by women in the old days.

This makeup method, also known as flowers, face flowers and decals, is a small decoration attached to the eyebrows and face.

As for the origin of flower bud, according to the record quoted from Wu Hou Ji in Song Gaocheng's Miscellaneous Five Elements Book, in the Southern Dynasties, "Princess Shouyang, a woman, had a chapter under the eaves of the temple, and plum blossoms fell on her forehead, which could not be removed. After washing for three days, it fell down, and the maids were very strange and contended for the result. " I don't know why it is called "plum blossom makeup" or "Shouyang makeup".

In the Song Dynasty, plum blossom makeup was still popular. Wang Zao sang in Ode to Drunk Flowers: "There is a gap in the boat curtain, the beauty is half exposed to plum makeup, and Lv Yun is as low as a flower."

It was also in the Tang Dynasty that decals became popular. What is the bud made of? In ancient times, the materials for making flower buds were very rich, including gold foil, paper, fish scales and camellia cakes. The most interesting thing is that even dragonfly wings can be used as flower buds! For example, "Dream of Louis" written in the Song Dynasty said: "In the late Tang Dynasty, the imperial court or the net got dragonflies and loved their delicate green, so they painted their wings with golden pens and made small flowers." It can be seen that in ancient times, women's makeup methods were not only rich, but also unique and eclectic. The colors of flower buds are red, green and yellow. There is a saying in the well-known "Mulan Ci" that "putting yellow on the mirror". In addition to the plum blossom shape, there are all kinds of birds, small fish and ducklings, which are very beautiful and novel.

lipstick

Lipstick was called oral fat and lip fat in ancient times. The red color of oral fat, painted on the lips, can increase the bright color of oral lips and give people a healthy, young and energetic impression, so it has been loved by women since ancient times. The degree of this kind of love can be seen from Guan Baizhi, a book of Tang Dynasty, which records: "On the 12th, I offered oral fat, facial fat, head cream and perfume bags to the Bachelor of North Gate, and the oral fat was filled with a blue tooth tube." It is written here that oral fat is packed in carved ivory tubes, which shows how precious oral fat is in many cosmetics!

There are many ways to fill your mouth. China is used to taking small mouth as beauty, namely "small cherry mouth". For example, Cen Can, a poet in the Tang Dynasty, said in "Poems of Drunk Fight Ren Mei": "A little peach blossom on your lips."

Tang Chaoyuan and later, due to the influence of Tubo costumes and makeup, there appeared "crying makeup" and "tears makeup", which, as the name implies, turned makeup into crying, and was then called "contemporary makeup". The poet Bai Juyi once described in detail in the poem "Contemporary Makeup": "Contemporary makeup comes from all directions of the city and is popular far and near, with no ink on the cheeks and no powder on the cheeks. The lips are black as mud, and the eyebrows are painted low. Black and white makeup is out of its original state and looks like a sad cry. " This kind of makeup is not only unsightly, but also gives people a strange feeling, so it soon goes out of fashion.

Sandalwood was also popular in the Tang and Song Dynasties, and sandalwood was light crimson. Qin Guan, a poet in the Northern Song Dynasty, sang in Nan Ge Zi: "Rub your blue skirt and apricot skirt, lean on the jade fence alone and touch your lips without words." This color of oral fat is still popular until modern times. Of course, whether it is cinnabar or sandalwood, we should choose and use it appropriately according to the different characteristics and conditions of individuals, and we must not pretend to be beautiful.

Coat with powder

Fu powder is powdered on the face. In ancient China, women used powder for a long time, which has always been the most common way to make up. According to the records of the Tang Dynasty, Tang Huangming gave Yang Guifei's sisters a powder fee of up to one million taels every year! Li Yu, a dramatist in the early Qing Dynasty, had a unique view on the method of assigning points. He thinks that female powder application at that time "tends to be subordinate to the trend, and beautiful women use it to improve their beauty", "white people can make it white" and "adding white on black is to make it black", which clearly reveals the relationship between makeup and aesthetics. What's more interesting is that the ancients also linked makeup methods such as puffing powder with moral cultivation, pointing out that beauty should be combined with cultivation. For example, Cai Yong in the Eastern Han Dynasty thought: "Taking photos and plastering is intended to think about the purity of the heart, applying powder, thinking about the sum of the heart, adding powder, thinking about the freshness and smoothness of the heart, using a comb, thinking about the reason of the heart, bun, thinking about the righteousness of the heart, and taking the sideburns. This view is not only insightful, but also profound.

Frontal yellow

Frontal yellow, also called crow yellow, is yellow painted between the foreheads. This kind of makeup is out of use now. It originated in the Southern and Northern Dynasties and prevailed in the Tang Dynasty. According to China Women's Decoration, this decoration has a certain relationship with the popularity of Buddhism. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, Buddhism entered its heyday in China. Inspired by the golden lacquer Buddha statue, some women painted their foreheads yellow, which gradually became a common practice. Jian Wendi's "Beauty" in the Southern Dynasties said: "About the yellow energy efficiency month, cutting gold to make stars clever." The yellow mentioned here refers to the makeup method of yellow forehead. When the forehead yellow prevailed in the Tang Dynasty, Wen recited the sentence "Infinite sunset mountain has a forehead yellow" in the poem, and Li Shangyin also wrote: "Princess Shouyang put on makeup when she got married, and the eyebrows in the eight-character palace held the forehead yellow." Niu Monks and Confucians in the Tang Dynasty also described the story of the goddess Zhi Qiong yellowing her forehead. When the forehead yellow was still popular in the Song Dynasty, the poet Peng sang: "There was a woman named Jingmu, and pearls fell on her temples and painted yellow." These all reflect the scenes that ancient women like to have yellow foreheads.

Draw a picture

Thrush is the most popular and common makeup method in China, which was produced in the Warring States Period. Qu Yuan wrote in The Songs of the South: "White and white, black and white, only for Fang Ze." "Black" means using a black thrush. In the Han dynasty, thrush became more and more common, and the more you painted, the better you looked. "Miscellanies of Xijing" wrote: "Sima Xiangru's wife, Wen Jun, has an eyebrow like a distant mountain. She painted a distant eyebrow when she was young." This means drawing your eyebrows long, curved and green, as beautiful as a distant mountain. Later, it was developed to use jade thrush, which was also very popular in the court. In the Song Dynasty, Yan Dao Ji described in "Six Commandments": "Come to Cuimei Palace late and learn from the distant mountains skillfully." "The Story of Mizhuang Terrace" said, "Wei Wudi ordered the imperial court to draw blue eyebrows and eyebrows, which were very long and called fairy makeup." Instead, the use of black eyebrows has become a new thing in the popularity of Cui eyebrows. In China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, it is said that Yang Guifei "wears heavy makeup and black eyebrows". At that time, people regarded this as a new way of makeup, and called it "new makeup". No wonder Xu Ning wrote in his poem: "When the new makeup is thrown away, the six palaces fight for the black eyebrows."

In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the popular thrush was wide and short, shaped like laurel leaves or moth wings. In Yuan Zhen's poem "Don't draw long eyebrows and short eyebrows", and Li He's poem also said that "the new laurel is like a flying moth eyebrow". In order to make the broad eyebrows not appear dull, women will even smudge the color of the eyebrows when drawing them. This phenomenon is called "smudge eyebrows". Another is to draw the eyebrows very thin, which is called "thin eyebrows". Therefore, Bai Juyi has a sentence of "Qingdai Fine Eyebrows" in Shang Yang White-haired Man, and there is also a description of "petals like her face and willow leaves like her eyebrows" in Song of Eternal Sorrow. By the time of Xuanzong in Tang Dynasty, the forms of thrush were more colorful, including Yuanyang eyebrow, Hill eyebrow, Wufeng eyebrow, Sanfeng eyebrow, Beaded eyebrow, Moon eyebrow, Split eyebrow, Smoked eyebrow, Blowing eyebrow and Inverted eyebrow. There are so many paintings on the eyebrows alone, which shows that the ancients have a strong love for beauty.

Ancient cosmetics—

The "eyebrow pencil" of ancient women;

It is said that thrush began in the Warring States period. Before there were any specific thrush materials, women burned willow branches and painted them on their eyebrows (strange makeup, preferably modern).

The materials used by ancient women thrush changed with the development of the times.

According to literature, the earliest thrush material is Dai, a black mineral, also known as "Shi Dai".

Before painting, Shi Dai must be ground into powder on the inkstone and then mixed with water. Many Han tombs have found ink stones of the Mohist dynasty, which shows that this cosmetic has been used in the Han Dynasty.

In addition to stone wear, there are bronze wear, bluebird head wear and screw wear.

Copper generation is a chemical substance similar to copper rust. Green finch head is a kind of dark gray thrush material, which was introduced from the western regions in the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Mother-of-pearl Dai is a thrush material used by women in Sui and Tang Dynasties, which was produced in Persia. It is a kind of Dai block with various prescribed shapes after processing and manufacturing. When it is used, it can only be dipped in water without grinding. Because its appearance and manufacturing process are similar to those of ink ingots for painting and calligraphy, it is also called "graphite" or "thrush ink".

In the Song Dynasty, thrush ink was more widely used, and women rarely used Shi Dai again.

There are also ways to make thrush ink in the notes of the Song Dynasty. For example, "The Stone Forest" said: "There is a real sesame oil lamp, which is closely rubbed with many lamp holders. Put the oil lamp in the water, light it, cover it with a small device, let the smoke condense and sweep it down. Soak musk deer in less oil three days in advance, pour it into smoke and mix well. The ink can exceed the paint. A method of rotary shearing sesame oil snuff is particularly preferred. This smoked thrush material was euphemistically called "thrush gathers fragrance" in the late Song Dynasty and early Yuan Dynasty. After the Yuan Dynasty, women in the court all chose the eyebrow stone of Zhaitang in Mentougou District, west Beijing, and so did the Ming and Qing Dynasties. By the early 1920s, with the spread of western culture, a series of changes had taken place in women's cosmetics in China. Thrush materials, especially rod-shaped eyebrow pencil and chemically modulated black grease, have been used up to now because of their simple use and portability.

Fang ze rou rou makeup powder

Women in China began to use cosmetic powder at least during the Warring States Period. The oldest cosmetic powder has two components, one is rice flour, and the ancient Chinese characters of powder are separated from rice; There is also a cosmetic powder that turns white lead into mushy facial fat, commonly known as "Hu powder". Because it is made of lead, it is also called "lead China" and "lead powder".

Both powders are applied to the face to keep the skin smooth.

The method of making rice noodles is recorded in Qi Min. The most primitive method of making rice noodles is to fill rice juice in a round rice bowl, make it precipitate, make it into white powder greasy "powder English", and then expose it to the sun. The dried powder can be used for makeup. Because this method is simple, it is widely circulated among the people. Until the Tang and Song Dynasties, people still used this method to make rice noodles.

There is also a kind of fragrant powder, which is made of corn, similar to it, but made with various spices at last. Because corn itself contains a certain viscosity, it is not easy to fall off when coated on the surface. Compared with rice flour, the production technology of lead powder is much more complicated. From the early literature, the so-called lead powder actually contains many chemical elements such as lead, tin, aluminum and zinc. Lead powder originally used for women's makeup has not been dehydrated, so it is mostly paste. Since the Han dynasty, lead powder has been sucked dry and made into powder or solid. Because of its delicate texture, white color and easy preservation, it is deeply loved by women and has replaced the status of rice flour over time.

In addition to simple rice flour and lead powder, there are many famous makeup powders of ancient women. For example, during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Duan Qiaoxiao, a court official, mixed rice flour, Hu powder and sunflower seed juice to synthesize "purple powder".

In the Tang dynasty, the palace made "butterfly-welcoming powder" from fine millet.

In the Song Dynasty, there was a kind of "Jade Girl peach blossom powder" made of gypsum, talc, mussel powder, wax fat, musk deer and motherwort.

In the Ming Dynasty, there were "pearl powder" extracted from white jasmine kernel and "Hosta powder" made of Hosta flower and Hu powder.

In the Qing dynasty, there were "pearl powder" made of pearls and "stone powder" made of fine stones such as talc.

There are also famous producing areas, such as "Hangzhou powder" (also known as official powder) in Zhejiang; "Yang Fanfen" in Jingzhou; Hebei's "fixed powder"; Guilin's "cinnamon powder" and so on, the color of the powder has also increased from the original white to a variety of colors, but also mixed with a variety of precious spices, more attractive. Over the past half century, with the deepening of archaeological work, a large number of cosmetic powders have been unearthed, some in exquisite bowls and some in silk bags. The most distinctive one is the Southern Song Dynasty cosmetic powder unearthed in Fuzhou, Fujian, which is made into powder blocks with specific shapes, such as round, square, quadrilateral, octagonal and sunflower petals. And embossed with concave and convex plum, orchid and lotus patterns.

Colorful words and rouge

Rouge is a common cosmetic used by ancient women. There are many ways to write rouge in ancient books, such as "Yan Zhi", "cigarette", "fresh branch", "Yan Zhi" and "E Shi".

This is a red pigment. There is a saying that the real origin of ancient rouge is Yanqi Mountain of Xiongnu, and the name "E Shi" is a kind of address for court women of Xiongnu, which originally refers to the wife of nobility. Because these aristocratic women often decorate their faces with "E Shi", "E Shi" has become synonymous with them.

It is said that the introduction of rouge into the Central Plains is related to Zhang Qian's mission to the Western Regions. The so-called "rouge" is actually a kind of flower called "red and blue". Its petals contain red and yellow pigments. Pick the whole flower after flowering, and then mash it repeatedly in a stone bowl to remove the yellow juice and form a bright red pigment.

There are two kinds of rouge for women's makeup. One is made of silk floss dipped in red and blue flower juice, which is called "Mian Yan Zhi"; The other is processed into small and thin flower pieces, which are called "Jinhua Yan Zhi". Both kinds of rouge can be dried in the shade, and can be applied with a small amount of water.

In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, people added bovine marrow, pig pancreas and other things to this red pigment, making it a dense and lubricated oil. As a result, Yan Zhi was written as "rouge", and "fat" had a real meaning. There is a vivid description of rouge in the forty-four chapters of A Dream of Red Mansions. This rouge "is not a piece, but a small white jade box, which contains a box like rose cream." Baoyu smiled and said,' The things sold in the shop are not clean and the color is thin. This is the best rouge. It is squeezed juice and steamed with toilet water. Just pick a little on the thin hairpin and put it on your lips, which is enough; Melt it with a little water and put it in your palm. It's enough to pat your face. "Pinger's makeup is really bright and abnormal, and her cheeks are sweet."

In addition to red and blue, the raw materials for making rouge are crimson, pomegranate, mountain flower and sapanwood. Heavy crimson is a kind of crimson dye, its color is relatively thick, not as bright and transparent as red and blue. During the Han and Wei dynasties, it was often used as the material of swallows. Pomegranate flower is also a kind of red pigment, which was often used to dye skirts in Sui and Tang Dynasties, called "pomegranate red skirt", but it can also be used to make rouge.

Mountain flower, similar to pomegranate flower, is a kind of wild plant, which can be used as cosmetic raw material after refining and processing. Su Fangmu, also known as "Sumu", has a long history as a dye, although its color is rather dull. As early as the Wei and Jin Dynasties, it was a major red dye.

Due to the popularity of rouge, after the Han Dynasty, the number of feminine red makeup increased day by day and lasted for a long time. Judging from a large number of literature records and image data, in ancient times, women often used both powder and powder in makeup, while rouge alone was rare. Specific methods can be divided into three types:

1. Before make-up, mix rouge with lead powder to make it reddish brown, that is, pink, and then apply it directly on the cheeks. Because it has been adjusted into a color before dressing, the color is relatively uniform, and the color of the whole face is relatively uniform, which can give people a solemn and quiet feeling, so it is mostly used for adult women;

2. Apply white powder first, then rouge. The position of rouge is often concentrated on the cheeks, so the cheeks are mostly red, while the forehead, nose and chin are white. China's ancient traditional painting techniques are called "Three Whites", which is based on this makeup method (visible in Tang Yin's paintings, most women in the paintings make up like this). In terms of image, this makeup style is often used by young people, which is found in history books.

Apply a layer of rouge on your face first, and then gently cover it with white powder. Due to the different color levels, the names are different. Rich colors are called "drunken makeup" and lighter colors are called "Fei Xia makeup".