The clothes of ancient concubines

The body flies very fast, like wandering, walking a little step, socks are gray. Impermanence rule

Yanqi is the lower skirt, and Zi Qi is the upper skirt.

In the Tang Dynasty, pomegranate skirt was a very popular dress style for young women. This kind of skirt is as red as pomegranate and does not dye other colors, which often makes the woman wearing it look handsome and moving. Wan Chu in the Tang Dynasty said in "Watching Prostitutes in May": "The eyebrow platform wins the color of day lily, and the red skirt envies pomegranate flowers." Wei Zhuang also sang: "Don't hate that broken red dress, don't think that the white house is low" ("Give Benevolence"). Bai Juyi once described the woman who plays the pipa in Pipa Story: "Her art is envied by experts, and her beauty is envied by all major dancers ... The silver comb inlaid with shells was broken by her rhythm, and the blood-colored skirt was stained by wine." This "blood skirt" is pomegranate skirt.

Pomegranate skirt has been circulating for a long time. In Tang Yin's poem "Smelling the Fragrance in Mei Fei" in the Ming Dynasty, "Plum blossoms are full of pomegranate skirts". Although it was written in the Tang Dynasty, it can be seen that this style of skirt was still cherished by young women in real life at that time.

Because the pomegranate skirt is enduring, it is said that men are conquered by beauty, which is called "falling under the pomegranate skirt" and is still in use today.

Women in the Tang Dynasty especially like skirts. Besides pomegranate skirt, there are many unique styles. At the beginning, the skirt was narrow and slender, and the wearer held it to his chest, so there was a saying in Tang poetry that "the skirt was slowly tied and the chest was half exposed." In the Tang Dynasty, skirts were beautifully made, and some of them were expensive. The main styles are short skirts, bird skirts and flower cage skirts. A skirt is a skirt made of two or more colors of materials arranged at intervals. Each space is called a "break", which can be divided into six, seven and twelve breaks. The colors are red, green, red, yellow and yellow. The hundred birds skirt is woven by twisting the feathers of various birds into threads. Because of its exquisite workmanship, it has a strong three-dimensional effect. It is "the front color, the side color, the eyes color, the shadow color", and it is "all birds can see" (New Tang Book).

The flower cage skirt is embroidered with a light, soft and thin "monofilament Luo", on which flowers and birds are embroidered with various silk threads. Bird skirt and flower cage skirt are dresses worn outside ordinary skirts. In addition, there are hundreds of skirts, painted skirts (painted directly on skirts) and so on. /question/6835 1506.html？ si=3

Silk is an ancient women's dress in China. Silk appeared in the murals of the Sui Dynasty and was widely popular in the Tang Dynasty. It is made of gauze painted with silver flowers or gold and silver powder, one end of which is fixed on the chest belt of the half arm, and then draped over the shoulder and wound between the two arms. There are two kinds of silk: one is that the flag is wide and short, which is mostly used by married women; The other length can reach more than two meters, which is mostly used by unmarried women.

Silk is a strip-shaped towel, which is draped over the shoulders and wrapped between the back of the hands. It is usually made of thin gauze with patterns printed on it or patterns made of gold and silver thread. According to experts' research, silk weaving is not an inherent costume in China, but may have originated from West Asia, or more precisely from Persia, and the Persian silk weaving habit may have been influenced by Hellenism.

With the spread of Buddhism to the East, female diners wearing silk have appeared in Buddhist murals in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. After Kaiyuan in the Tang Dynasty, silks of different lengths and widths began to appear on the shoulders of every woman chasing fashionable clothes. In this way, all kinds of silk are actually the fruits of internationalization. The confident and open women in Datang pursue gorgeous and exquisite costumes. "When sitting, the clothes are wrapped in grass, and when walking, the skirt sweeps the plum." Flowers and plants can also kiss each other. Old Tang book? "Jade Fu Zhi" said: "The custom is extravagant and unruly. It's great to keep the frontier together. They can be as good as they want. From the palace to the horse, each from its position, there is no distinction between high and low. " Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty once made an imperial edict that all wives, concubines, Pauline, imperial daughters and lovers in the 27th Palace must wear embroidered silks when attending attendants and harem banquets. Ladies-in-waiting also wear gorgeous silk on Dragon Boat Festival, which is called sacred towel or longevity towel.

The beauty of the Tang Dynasty, when standing, the silk naturally hangs like a pool of clear water, and when walking, it is elegant and stretches like the wind blowing willow, and the movements complement each other. This kind of additional clothing extends the visual effect of the body, and its appearance is not for practicality, but to create a lively and graceful appearance. However, this is not an illusory aesthetic feeling that only existed in Wei and Jin Dynasties. High bun, silk, half-arm, topless collar and clothing are a rare combination of line sense and human beauty. It does not depend on traditional ethical norms or the public's alert psychology to women. It is the product of women's short-term aesthetic imagination under accidental factors. The "fashion" of wearing silk borrowed the dance clothes of maiko in the western regions that were popular at that time. Women in the Tang Dynasty drew inspiration from stage costumes, and their daily wear could also be sublimated into performance costumes. In the later Peking Opera Flowers Scattered in the Sky, Mei Lanfang danced with a long ribbon, which must be a symbolic extreme display of silk.

In order to make clothes more artistic, women in the Tang Dynasty put "purses" on their shoulders and arms to keep out the wind and warm their backs. Wear a belt that is longer than a shawl indoors or in the palace garden-"leather silk". Sweep the floor around your shoulders like a fairy. In the Song Dynasty, women's "wearing silks" became increasingly prosperous, from "wearing silks" by royal ladies to "straight wearing" by civilian women. With the development of history and social progress, these complicated "costumes" gradually disappeared. However, the rectangular scarf similar to "Zi Kui" is still very popular in modern society because of its practical function. And "Pisilks" can only be enjoyed occasionally from flying painted walls in Dunhuang, unearthed pottery figurines, classic dramas of film and television songs and dances, or traditional Manchu weddings, so that people can appreciate its elegant, romantic and rainbow-like appearance. /question/68673545.html？ si=8

The Evolution History of Ancient Women's Wear

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