Characteristics and pictures of court women's casual clothes in Qing Dynasty

Since Huang taiji changed his name to Qing, Qing ruled for 276 years. With the establishment, prosperity, decline and demise of the Qing Dynasty, it directly affected the development and changes of China clothing culture. The Qing Dynasty is the era with the greatest changes in the history of China's clothing. The Qing Dynasty was an era when Manchu and Chinese cultures blended, especially the costume culture, and it was also a non-Han dynasty that retained the most primitive costume tradition after entering China. The Qing Dynasty entered the Central Plains as an alien, and Manchu was originally a nomadic warrior. During their military career, they formed their own way of life, and the shape of their crown clothes was very different from that of Han people. After the establishment of the Qing Dynasty, the rulers enforced Manchu costumes and prohibited Han people from wearing Hanfu. The strong resistance of the Han people forced the Qing Dynasty to adopt the countermeasures of male rebellion, female rebellion, birth rebellion, yang rebellion and the so-called "ten rebellions", which eased the people's resentment of shaving and changing clothes, and the costumes of the Qing Dynasty were able to fully absorb the achievements of Han costumes. The Qing dynasty ruled more than 200 people. Politics and economy have undergone unprecedented drastic changes. After the Opium War (A.D. 1840), foreign powers invaded and China was reduced from a feudal society to a semi-colonial and semi-feudal society. The complex and changeable social environment also impacts and affects clothing. Judging from the development history of costumes, the Qing Dynasty made the biggest changes to traditional costumes, and the styles of costumes were also the most complicated. It can be said that this is an era.

Men's wear in Qing Dynasty is divided into formal wear, auspicious wear, regular wear and traveling wear.

Dresses include court dresses, court crowns, court belts, court beads, end caps, clothes, etc. Court crowns and court dresses are worn in big courts and big sacrifices. The great dynasty is a court meeting. The Qing dynasty followed the court meeting system of the Ming dynasty. Every time the emperor ascended the throne, married and conferred the title of queen, as well as New Year's Day, winter solstice and Wanshou Day (the emperor's birthday), the emperor wore royal robes, and all officials and bureaucrats also wore royal robes according to their grades.

The emperor's royal robes are bright yellow, the lapels and sleeves are stone blue, they are blue when worshipping, red when facing the moon, and the edges of lapels and sleeves are gilded when facing the moon. In winter, dragons are embroidered on the shoulders, one on the front, one on the back, one on the right with a waist curtain lined with dragon five strips, with nine dragons on the front and back. This coat has a day and a month.

Chaoguan The winter crown is made of smoked mink and black fox skin. The crown is dome-shaped with an upturned brim around it. The crown is divided into three parts, supported by four small golden dragons, decorated with Zhu Wei, and crowned with hollow gold. The summer crown is made of jade grass or rattan bamboo silk, with a conical crown and a double-layer trumpet-shaped lower eaves. Heads.

There are two kinds of Korean belts. * * *, one is the disk of Dragon Gold, and the other is the square disk of Dragon Gold, which is yellow in color and used for the ceremony. The belt is decorated with red sapphires and turquoise, each of which is surrounded by 5 oriental pearls and 20 pearls. In addition, there are wallets for knives, guns and other items. The square ribbon is used to worship the heavens and the earth, the sun and the moon, and ten bundles. The belt is made of cowhide, and the brocade and bright yellow are bright yellow, which is wider than the common belt.

Zhu Chao. The rulers of the Qing Dynasty believed in Buddhism, and the Zhu Chao hung between the Buddha's head decorated on the crown and the necklace was obviously influenced by Buddhism. According to the crown system of the Qing Dynasty, monarchs, prostitutes and maids had to hang Zhu Chao on their chests. Zhu Chao is composed of 108 oriental pearls, with mixed decorations, such as Buddha heads, memorials and pendants. It is usually hung during ceremonies and sacrifices.

Jifu, also known as colored clothes, is generally used for ceremonies, such as comforting soldiers, prisoners, entertaining ministers, celebrating birthdays and so on. The lucky crown is made of sea dragons and mink in winter. The crown looks like a royal crown, decorated with Zhu Wei and wearing a big pearl. In summer, it is made of jade grass or rattan and bamboo silk, lined with red yarn. Gifford's end cover is worn in winter. In Manchu, it is called "Tribal Tiger". It takes the form of a round neck, double-breasted sleeves, flat sleeves, sleeves reaching the wrist, and clothes reaching the knee. Double-breasted buttons have five buttons, and the fur goes out. When the emperor salutes at the Temple of Heaven and New Year's Day, the accompanying officials also wear tribal tigers and mink skirts.

Secret service, also known as Yanfu, is a casual dress in seclusion. Emperors of the Qing Dynasty sometimes summoned their deputies in the palace and wore Yan clothes. The crown of the secret service was crowned with red velvet, which was worth only a few hundred words in the Qing Dynasty, but it was noble. The prince and grandson used crowns crowned with red velvet as their dresses, and the nobles could only wear them often if they were rewarded by the emperor. Ministers occasionally wear it, but this is not allowed.

Travel clothes. Travel clothes are worn by emperors during patrols, lucky trips or expeditions. There are no strict rules on the color and decoration of clothes. The crown is like an ordinary crown, made of black fox or black leather and blue velvet. In summer, it is made of rattan and bamboo silk. The top and beam are yellow and prefixed with a pearl. The travel coat is turquoise, and the length is aligned with the sitting position. The length of the sleeve is the elbow.

Men's Ordinary Clothing in Qing Dynasty

(1) Jacket: A robe or gown with a jacket and vest, a long belt in lake color, white or light color around the waist, and a towel at the back, which was generally worn by men in the Qing Dynasty. The coat is only umbilicus long, left and right front and back wedge-shaped, with straight cuffs (no horseshoe sleeves), and various forms, such as sleeves over the hand or sleeves to the wrist, double-breasted buttons, large-breasted buttons and pipa lapels.

(2) Vest: vest, vest, or tight. A vest is a sleeveless tight top. There are several styles, such as one-piece lapels, pipa lapels, double lapels and multi-button lapels. Except for the multi-button collar, everyone else has a stand collar.

⑶ Robes and shirts: The styles were still long in the early Qing Dynasty, shortened to the knees in the late Shunzhi period, and soon lengthened to the ankles. Long gowns and mandarin jackets were popular in the middle and late Qing Dynasty, with sleeves larger than feet. Said: "It is too difficult to talk about new clothes, and it is extremely long and narrow. Foreigners can't squat when they wear clothes." This reflects the changing trend of dress style in the late Qing Dynasty. At this time, it is difficult to talk about the fabrics of robes and blouses.

(4) Shirt: The shirt is worn under the robe, and the shape of the shirt is similar to that of the robe. Some shirts are made of cotton in the upper part and silk in the lower part. When they meet at the waist, they become "two-cut shirts". The color was white at first, and then it became popular in emerald, egg blue, oil green or white with satin and velvet edges.

(5) Short coat and jacket: There are two styles: right lapel and double lapel, with trousers and waist skirt, which are the clothing styles of ordinary working people. Southern farmers wear bull's head shorts in summer, which is the traditional calf nose? Developed. The legs of trousers have black edges. Northerners wear pants, and their legs are tied with straps at the joints, which is the case in Xia Dong. Winter trousers, with sharp upper mouth and flat lower mouth, can't cover the upper and lower parts of legs and hips.

There were two kinds of queens in Qing Dynasty. One is after the emperor's wedding. In one case, the emperor was married before he succeeded to the throne, and after he succeeded to the throne, he conferred the title of his predecessor, Di Fujin, as the queen. The emperor's big wedding was very grand. Choose the queen to discuss marriage, ask imperial academy to write a book, do not choose the golden book, prepare gifts, select an auspicious day, and then send envoys to the queen's house to receive the bride price. The wedding described by the Qing Dynasty was Guangxu. In the bride price for the queen, there are many things to wear, such as a hat, a collar, various silks and satins, and various blessings.

The dress the queen wore when she was canonized was a royal dress. There are crowns, gowns, skirts and so on. The crown has three layers, each layer has a big pearl, and there is a golden phoenix with wings spread under the pearl. There are seven golden phoenix around the hat, inlaid with cat stones and pearls. There are more than 300 pearls hanging behind the hat. The golden ring worn in front of the crown is called the golden Covenant. The pearls hanging on the chest are drooping. Every golden dragon has two beads. The queen's beads are three plates. The imperial robe is shaped like a vest with a stone blue bottom, with two dragons embroidered on the front and back. The next picture is embroidered with eight treasures of water, and the word "Shoufu" is embroidered under the fold (clothes). In addition to the two dragons before and after, there are four dragons on it. The other one is embroidered with four dragons on the waist, and the next one is embroidered with eight dragons, with no words and no words. Not a traditional water jacket. The difference between the three robes is mainly whether there are folds or not, and the shapes of dragons are different. The top of the skirt is gold satin, and the bottom is azurite satin, all of which are full-length. The skirt is pleated, and the skirt in summer is made of a yarn. The crown dress of the empress dowager is the same as that of the empress dowager.

The imperial concubine's crown, auspicious service crown, imperial robe, imperial skirt, dragon robe and imperial robe are basically the same as those of the queen, but the difference is that the decorative bead tree of the crown is different. There is no difference between 1 10 beads missing from the tail of the crown (walking) and 100 beads missing from the gold contract. There are second-class princesses and wives under the imperial concubine, and the crown of the princess is the crown. The imperial court has two floors, and there is no golden phoenix. Two pearls are made of gold, and the number of pearls hanging at the end of the court is less than that of the princess 16. The court dress is the same as the princess's. Royal robes and dragon robes are not bright yellow, but fragrant.

Women's General Clothing in Qing Dynasty

⑴ Flag bun: refers to Manchu bun with two big wings. According to the Record of Reading the World, "In the early years of Shunzhi, Manchu women were seen braiding their hair on their foreheads, dividing it backwards, and their heads were wrapped in Chinese-style Baotou, but decorated, which was effective in the capital and not in other provinces." According to "Notes on Old Beijing", "Their women's clothes are all combed into flat buns. The rest of the hair and the headrope are combined into a lock and wrapped around the root of the hair under the square towel to fix it. The top of the head looks like a word, and it is also like a handle inserted horizontally on the top of the head. So there are two heads, a prefix and a wishful head. After Daoguang, the woman put her hair in a double bun, which is called a rack head. After Xianfeng Qing Dynasty, there were more and more banners with two horns.

⑵ Jacket: There are two styles: sleeves (sleeves are longer than arms) and sleeves (sleeves are not as long as arms). The fashion change of length and thinness is similar to that of men's jackets, but women's jackets are painted with patterns and decorated with lace.

⑶ awning: also known as tight-fitting, drapery, vest and vest, it is a sleeveless short upper garment with many styles, such as one-piece lapel, pipa lapel, double lapel and herringbone lapel. Wear it over clothes, shirts and cheongsam.

(4) Jacket: a long vest worn by women outside their robes when it is cool in the spring and autumn. This vest is round neck, double-breasted, straight, sleeveless, with left and right openings and underarms on both sides. The front chest and the upper end of the chest are decorated with wishful thinking, and the whole body is decorated with hemming. The two armpits are decorated with two long belts, and the body length is below the knee.

5. Shirts: Women's shirts in Qing Dynasty include round neck, straight collar, twisted collar, straight collar, flat sleeves, flat sleeves and five-button long skirts. There are two types of sleeves: comfortable sleeves and half-width sleeves, and sleeves are decorated inside, which are women's ordinary casual clothes.

[6] clothes: similar to shirts. The difference is that the shirt has no gas, and the clothes are under the armpit from left to right, and the gas must be decorated with clouds; Moreover, the decorative patterns of clothes are more gorgeous and the edges are more exquisite. Laces, flowers and dog teeth with different colors, different crafts and different materials are embedded in the collar, cuffs, the intersection between the collar and the armpit, the side swing and the hem. Especially in Jiangnan, mosaics are common.

(7) Scarf: When wearing shirts and clothes, tie a ribbon about two inches wide and three feet long around your neck. The ribbon wraps around the back of the neck forward, with the right end draped over the chest and the left end hidden in the lapel of the clothes. Scarves are usually embroidered with patterns, which match the patterns on clothes.

(8) Skirts: mainly worn by Han women. Manchu maids generally don't wear skirts except Korean skirts. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, China and Manchu costumes blended with each other, and both China and Manchu women wore them. Dry skirt, fish scale skirt, phoenix tail skirt, red skirt, jade skirt, yuet skirt, ink flower skirt, coarse blue ge cloth skirt and so on.

Cloud shoulder: an ornament worn by women on their shoulders, which was also used in wedding dresses by women in Qing Dynasty. In the Qing Dynasty, women in the south of the Yangtze River wore clouds on their shoulders, fearing that the shoulders of their clothes would be touched by greasy bun.

⑽ Zhong: Also known as cloak, it is a sleeveless long coat with no slit. Manchu is called "Huhuba", also called coat. There are two styles, including high collar, high collar and low collar. Both men and women wear it. Officials can wear auxiliary clothes, but they are not allowed to wear python clothes. Take off the bell when saluting.

After Jiaqing, women's clothing became lifeless and changed little, and the big dress seemed to be the only one. The flower towel is a box of women's clothes, similar to men's robes. For this tragic situation, talented woman Zhang Ailing once lamented: "It is hard for us to imagine that the past world was so slow, quiet and tidy-under the rule of the Qing Dynasty for 300 years, women had no fashion at all! ? "

In material life, clothes and costumes are the first thing in daily life, which most obviously and fully shows people's status. The hierarchical system of feudal society reflected clothing very strongly, no exception at home and abroad. In China, it combined with the ritual system and became an important part of the ritual system. Successive dynasties have promulgated various laws and regulations, such as conventions, decrees, regulations or car service system, service system and funeral service system, to regulate and manage the dressing and wearing of hats at all levels. There are detailed regulations on the material, color, pattern and style of clothes. If we don't ignore the differences between the clothes of monarchs, officials and ordinary people, offenders will be treated rudely. The so-called "China has a big gift, so it is called summer; The beauty of service seal is called China. This shows that our ancestors used the reputation of "Huaxia" as the clan name since ancient times, which not only attached importance to appearance, but also included a set of rules and regulations to distinguish between the superior and the inferior by clothing, which made the strict hierarchical control go deep into dressing and wearing hats, and formed the dressing tradition of Chinese civilization, which is the characteristic of China's clothing system.

Therefore, the change of the clothing system of the Ming Dynasty in the Qing Dynasty had an impact on the clothing of China people, but it never shook the clothing rule of China people, because in the clothing rule of China people, clothing is not only a consumer product, but also a symbol of hierarchy and rank, and it is also a material and social treatment of identity and status. Therefore, the rules of clothing are actually the differences of clothing, and there are various complicated regulations on wearing boots, hats, clothes and accessories. Therefore, the clothing in the Qing Dynasty changed the form, not the substance, and the form was also to suppress and dilute the national consciousness of the Han people and strengthen the rule of the Qing people. Because of this, the Qing dynasty inherited and strengthened the tradition of Chinese clothing rule, and integrated it with the sense of national oppression, forming the clothing system of the Qing dynasty. This also means that when the Qing dynasty's rule gradually declined and ethnic contradictions rose to a certain extent, another clothing storm was bound to appear.