On the influence of China's costumes on the official uniforms of neighboring countries from the costumes given to vassal countries in Ming Dynasty

China has been a country of etiquette since ancient times, and the best expression of this culture is clothing. "Spring and Autumn Zuozhuan Justice? Ten years of public service: ""Chinese etiquette is great, so it is called summer; The beauty of service seal is called China. ","Zhouyi? Under the copula, it is recorded that "Huangdi, Yao and Shun govern the world by hanging down their clothes". Duke Zhou ruled the world with courtesy and was honored as a saint by Confucianism. Clothing and etiquette were often used to refer to civilization in ancient times. Cheng Yi thought: "If a gift is lost, it will be lost, and if it is lost again, it will be an animal. Sages are afraid of people entering barbarians, so the methods in Spring and Autumn Annals are extremely cautious, so prudent people are particularly careful about the distinction between China people and foreigners. "China's clothing for thousands of years has become one of the other standards of Huayi. In order to show that they are a member of civilized China, the ancient neighboring countries all paid tribute to the Central Plains Dynasty, and the highest etiquette of the Central Plains Dynasty for the vassal States was to present costumes and various costumes symbolizing China. The Central Plains Dynasty gave the most clothes to the vassal states in the Ming Dynasty, and Korea (later the Korean Dynasty), Japan, Annan, Ryukyu (later only Zhongshan) and Siam all gave clothes to these vassal states. These vassal States regarded it as a treasure and imitated it, which influenced their national costumes. The portrait of the Ming emperor came to pay tribute to the country at the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, symbolizing that he strictly distinguished China people from foreigners in ancient East Asian culture. Chinese stands for China orthodoxy and is the most culturally representative, while foreigners are the symbol of barbarism and backwardness. The dress system in the Central Plains is one of the important standards for holding summer festivals, and it is also a necessary part of Chinese etiquette. In ancient times, "right-handed" was often used to distinguish Chinese and foreign clothing, and the characteristics of Hanfu were all "right-handed". In ancient times, coats were mostly cross-collared and diagonal. People in the Central Plains advocate right-handedness, and it is customary to cover the right side of the skirt as a right lapel. Northern nomads advocate the left, and skirts cover the left. They are left-handed, which is called khufu. Right-handed people have become the symbol of the Chinese nation. Confucius once said, "I am a little humble, but I can't help it." "Zuo Qiu's hair as a symbol of barbarism and backwardness. The Yuan Dynasty was founded by Mongols. At that time, the vassal states around the Central Plains were often referred to as Zuo Zhou, who sent Xiongnu to claim the title of emperor, but they did not admit that it was China orthodoxy. After the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, * * * regained the political power in China, and the Ming Dynasty issued an imperial edict to the surrounding vassal states, announcing that the Ming Dynasty would inherit the destiny and expel Land Rover to restore China. The Ming Dynasty was a harmonious dynasty in which all ethnic groups lived in harmony. In the past, the emperor's rule, the world shines month by month, regardless of distance, equally. Therefore, the towel country respects security, and the four sides have their own places, which is not intended to surrender. Since the Yuan government lost its outline, the world has been conscripted for seven years, and it is far away from all directions, and its trust is not good. Sincere Jiang Zuo, sweeping the crowd, gathered in China, and his subjects pushed Dai, and owned China, whose founding name was Daming and Yuan Hongwu. Whoever deserves land is equal to Du Yuan, and Xinjiang is Datong. They inherited orthodoxy, and they lived in peace with Yuanji, enjoying * * *. The establishment of the Ming Dynasty believed that since the Northern Song Dynasty, the northern nationalities occupied the Central Plains for many times, which affected the costumes of China. Therefore, the clothing was reformed, and it was proposed to restore the clothing of Han and Tang Dynasties to "show respect and inferiority, not for China people." In February of the first year of Hongwu, shortly after the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, Ming Taizu ordered "dressing like the Tang Dynasty" and forbade wearing clothes influenced by Mongols. In order to express the realization of "expelling and restoring China", He's Excerpt from Yudong Preface once recorded that it started in Shuomo and learned that it was made by Hu Customs in China. Scholars braid their hair into a vertebral bun and dress in trousers, narrow sleeves and braided waist pleats; Women's clothes are short sleeves and skirts, which are not as old as China's clothes. In order to show that the Ming Dynasty was China's orthodoxy, Zhu Yuanzhang sent a letter to all directions and established vassal relations with neighboring countries such as Korea, Annan, Ryukyu (Shannan, Shanbei, Zhongshan), Zhancheng and Siam. At that time, after the imperial edict was issued to establish the relationship between the vassal States, the Ming Dynasty began to give the Chinese clothes restored by the Ming Dynasty to the vassal States. Through this gift, the Ming Dynasty re-established the order between China people and foreigners, which reflected the status of the Ming Dynasty as the suzerain of the vassal state. The Ming Dynasty gave clothes to Korea, Annan, Ryukyu, Japan, Zhancheng and other countries. In the early days of the People's Republic of China, there was no provision for the Ming Dynasty to send clothes to vassal states. Most of them got gorgeous cloth directly or at the request of vassal States. Until the later period of Hongwu, the system of giving clothes to vassal States was formulated, and clothes were given to kings and counties of vassal States. "Twenty-seven years, the tribute instrument, Wang Laichao. If he rewards the imperial court, he will take it to North Korea. The earliest gift to foreign countries in the Ming Dynasty was given to North Korea in the second year of Hongwu (1369). In the second year, Korea entered the DPRK and made sacrifices. " Hongwu crowned korean king at the request of North Korea for three years, which was the highest-level costume that Zhu Yuanzhang gave to the vassal states. The Ming Dynasty not only sent clothes to korean king, but also to his princess and officials. At that time, Minister Han was deeply grateful for the clothes given by the Ming Dynasty. At that time, Zheng Mengzhou, the envoy of North Korea, wrote the Book of Rites and Righteousness to express his feelings: the country worships governance, and the vassal country congratulates Taiping. Divine grace allows humble introduction and obeys the Ming court. Sunshine adds color to the robe, and the wind sends her voice. Why should I report it? I wish the emperor a lifetime. After Koryo was usurped by Li Chenggui, the Ming Dynasty gave it the title of Korea and gave Li Chenggui clothes. Li Chenggui's successors also asked the Ming emperors for clothes many times. Ming Hui Dian records that in the first year of Yongle, I was invited to wear a book. The emperor's family appreciated China's gift and gave him a golden seal, imperial edict, sway suit, nine chapters, Guiyu, Yu Pei, Princess Zhu Cui, seven Zhai crowns, clothes, gold pendants and colored coins for the banquet. Later, when King Lee ascended the throne, he would attack the Ming Dynasty and demand submission. The Ming Dynasty would give the royal family and ministers of Lee all kinds of clothes and cloth to show the status of the sovereign state. The ancestor of Korea was the second person in the Ming Dynasty to give Guo the clothes of the vassal state. In the second year of Hongwu, Ming Taizu gave Zhang Yining, a bachelor's degree, a title to King Annan, a camel gold and silver seal, a Dali, and forty horses from Luo Zhi. Liu Bei was the leader of the delivery, handing over the territory and clothes. In the seventh year of the Orthodox Church (1442), King Annan was given a crown coat and an ordinary gauze cap. Annan returned the tribute, so that leather clothes and gold woven watches were given to his king. During the period of Zhu Yuanzhang, there were also many gifts to Ryukyu. At that time, Little Ryukyu had three kingdoms: Shannan, Shanbei and Zhongshan. At that time, Zhu Yuanzhang accepted their tribute and crowned the three monarchs. Sun Yat-sen unified the Ryukyu Kingdom in the Ming Dynasty. In the Ming Dynasty, Sun Yat-sen's crown and two pieces of Pin Guan were directly installed as the county king. In the thirty years of Hongwu, Ryukyu was awarded a crown. Yongle gave Ryukyu Zhongshan Wang Pi Ge, jade master, forest robe and rhinoceros belt, depending on the rank of two products. During the Ming Dynasty, Japan was also a vassal state of China. At that time, the shogunate paid tribute, and the Ming Dynasty gave the shogunate the title of King of Japan and crowned him. The gift of Japanese crown clothes began in Yongle period, and was given to the Japanese king with nine crowns. In the spring of the fifth year, the King of Song sent envoys to pay tribute. When Liu Jinquan took over the handle, he received his gold and gave him a flight suit, which was unprecedented. "During the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, in order to appease Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Toyotomi Hideyoshi was made king of Japan, and was given a crown suit, fur coat, etc. After the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang also included the crown given to Toyotomi Hideyoshi by the Ming Dynasty as a vassal state. Since the second year of Hongwu, he has been given a calendar and a crown to the king of Zhancheng. The envoys are cloth such as sand and Luo. Emperor Yongle, the founder of the Ming Dynasty, ordered Zheng He's emissaries to occupy the city when he went to the Western Ocean, and he was given a crown belt at the request of occupying the city. The deferential Korean dynasty gave the vassal States the highest treatment. In the Ming Dynasty, when the vassal countries were crowned, they were basically given the crown clothes of the county king level according to the provisions of the twenty-seventh year of Hongwu, but the DPRK was given special preferential treatment and the crown clothes were given the treatment of the prince level. At the time of Emperor Jianwen, due to the battle of Judy Jingnan, in order to win over the king of the Li Dynasty, Emperor Jianwen gave Prince Li costumes. Pan sent to admire the nine crowns of the prince. " "A Record of the Korean Dynasty" contains: The king of this county in North Korea should be given five or seven chapters. I believe that in the Spring and Autumn Period, people who were far away from China were all from China. Now, in Guyuan County, North Korea, you can enter with courtesy, and you can't wait for a son and a man to be overseas. Without China's love, his subjects can't do it. I hereby give him the clothes of the nine chapters of the prince, and the messenger will have instructions. At that time, the Li royal family, who was good at dealing with big countries, also had contacts with you. Later, Judy successfully won the throne and became the emperor of the Ming Dynasty. For this country that once contacted himself with respect, he was given high treatment, except for nine crowns for the prince and seven crowns for the princess. Later, the Li Dynasty was respectful, and the Ming Dynasty allowed all requests for submission from the Korean dynasty. The king of Korea asked Wang Shizi to be crowned for three years when the Korean royal family wore the coronation ceremony: "When Hong Wushi was crowned, the king was crowned with nine chapters, and the accompanying ministers were crowned with two equal to the court, so the accompanying ministers were crowned with five beams. At the beginning of Yongle, Fiona Fang, a former minister, sent a prince to the DPRK and gave him five crowns. I only stole the crown of the prince. I didn't just beg for customization like the minister. " So the Ming Dynasty gave Wang Shizi a crown. In the third year of orthodoxy, Ming Yingzong, at the request of the King of Korea, ordered him to make a black veil long-distance travel crown, Xuanzang's veil robe, Yu Pei red silk, and a ceremonial crown. Compared with korean king, other vassal states are fur coats and one or two official uniforms. At that time, kings in various vassal States also asked the Ming Dynasty to make coronation according to the example of King Koryo, but they were all rejected. Among them, the most typical one is Wang Li. During the Chenghua period, Li Guowang first asked the Ming Dynasty to give him a crown suit, but of course he was directly refused by the Ming Dynasty, and only gave him a crown suit and a royal suit. After King Annan, every time he paid tribute, he was asked to be crowned by the Ming Dynasty, but the Ming Dynasty repeatedly refused. In the tenth year of Hongzhi in the Ming Dynasty (1497), Guo, the envoy, asked for a change of dynasty on the grounds that the country was no different from other generals. This time in the Ming Dynasty, perhaps because Annan was so boring, he finally gave an ultimate reason to tell King Annan why he was not crowned. The etiquette officer of the Ming Dynasty said: Annan's name was Wang, but he was actually a minister in China. Wang Xinli, the heir, will be given leather clothes so that he will not lose the honor of dominating a country, and he will be given a suit, and he will not forget to serve the country. Today, the suzuzu system is not allowed, which means that Annan himself was established by Emperor Yongle, and Shi Li was the judge who separated Annan. Although Li's independence was recognized during Xuande's reign and Li was named King Annan during Yingzong's reign, he was actually an envoy to China. The Ming dynasty gave Li's face to the county king, but at the same time gave him a suit of royal clothes, which made Annan understand that he was a courtier of the Ming dynasty, different from the Korean dynasty. Judging from the gifts given by the Ming Dynasty to the Korean Kingdom and the Annan Kingdom, it can be said that the Ming Dynasty gave the Korean Dynasty the highest clothes and the most kinds. For other vassal States, it is a county-level leather coat, and the symbolic servant is a royal uniform, which shows the difference between the suzerain state and the vassal state of the Ming Dynasty. The costumes of vassal States were influenced by the Ming Dynasty. During the Qing dynasty, Korea, Annan and Ryukyu were still the mantle of the Ming dynasty, which had a far-reaching influence on the vassal States. Especially for the Kingdom of Korea, the Kingdom of Annan and the Kingdom of Ryukyu. The clothes given to North Korea in the Ming Dynasty ranged from the king to the civil and military officials. If you don't give it, you will also make the styles formulated by the Ming court for North Korea itself. So North Korea's clothing is basically a copy of the Ming Dynasty. As early as the twentieth year of Hongwu, before the establishment of the Li Dynasty, North Korea formulated a hundred official robes according to the system of the Ming Dynasty, and the clothing system respected the Han system. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, the ministers of the Korean dynasty wore the official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty, which was established by the Qing Dynasty. As China, the Central Plains is all easy to get shaved, and the orthodox Hanfu disappears. In November of the forty-first year of Qianlong, Xu Haoxiu, North Korea's tribute and Xie En's deputy envoy, went to Beijing. He proudly said that there was no orthodox Hanfu in China, only opera. Today, everyone is dressed in Manchu clothes, but the solo performance is particularly China-like, and the king must learn from it in the future. However, the Manchu dynasty did not ask for the costumes of the vassal countries, so the Korean dynasty still kept the costumes of the Ming dynasty. After the Korean dynasty refused to give clothes, it made cultural relics and official costumes according to the regulations of the Ming Dynasty. The people also wore net towels and vertical hats according to the style of the Ming Dynasty, and women wore coats and skirts. Although the costumes of the Korean dynasty were influenced by the Qing Dynasty to some extent, the length of official uniforms became shorter, the sleeves became narrower, the position of belts became higher and higher, and the tonic was smaller than before, which was not as atmospheric as that of the Ming Dynasty, but there was not much change on the whole. Vietnam (formerly Annan) still wore the mourning clothes of the Ming Dynasty during the Republic of China, and the kingdoms of Annan and Ryukyu were similar to the Korean dynasty. After the demise of the Ming Dynasty, the Qing Dynasty did not interfere with their costumes, so it still retained the costume system of the Ming Dynasty. In the Ming Dynasty, civil and military officials still wore round neck robes, while the king wore leather clothes. Most officials and people wear clothes with collars. It can be seen from the official tribute map of Qing Dynasty and the map of Ryukyu envoy going down the river left by Japan that all officials are dressed in Ming Dynasty costumes. In short, after the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, the order between China people and foreigners was re-established. In order to promote the orthodoxy of China, the Ming Dynasty gave the vassal states costumes. Moreover, in order to highlight the status of the Ming dynasty as the suzerain country, the Ming dynasty gave different degrees of respect and inferiority to the vassal countries. The Ming Dynasty existed for nearly 300 years, and sent clothes to neighboring countries many times to make them wear Hanfu, which is the symbol of China. Even after the demise of the Ming Dynasty, these countries still retained the dress system of the Ming Dynasty. References:

Papers such as Ming History, Ming Hui Dian, A Record of the Korean Dynasty, Historical Records of Da Yue: A Study of the Ritual System in the Ming Dynasty, Korean Costume in the Tribute System in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Clothing Style Education, and Costume and Costume Cultural Relics China discuss the influence of the Ritual System in the Ming Dynasty on Lee's Korean costume culture.