Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - The 24 Solar Terms - What are the traditional embroidery with colored dots?

What are the traditional embroidery with colored dots?

Embroidery, also called needle embroidery. It is a technical means to embroider needles on the fabric with embroidery thread according to the designed patterns and colors, and to form patterns, images or characters with embroidery marks. Chinese embroidery originated very early. According to legend, "Shunci colored embroidery" developed in Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties and Qin and Han Dynasties. Unearthed early embroidery relics show that the Zhou dynasty was simple and rough; During the Warring States period, the workmanship became more and more exquisite, and the embroidery in this period was braid embroidery, also called braid embroidery and lock embroidery. Embroideries unearthed from Chu Tomb of Warring States Period in Mashan No.1 Silicon Factory, Jiangling County, Hubei Province include Duifeng, Duilong, Feng Fei, Longfeng and Tiger. They were all embroidered with braided strands, without painting or coloring, indicating that the embroidery technology at that time had developed to a quite mature stage. These embroideries are very rigorous in pattern structure and clear in geometric layout. They use a large number of patterns such as flowers and birds, dragons and animals, and romantically combine animal and plant images, using realism and abstraction in techniques. In the Han dynasty, embroidery began to show the beauty of art. Due to economic prosperity, all walks of life were prosperous, especially silk weaving. With the rise of the affluent class and the formation of a new consumer class, the relationship between supply and demand of embroidery came into being. Not only has it become a widely used costume among the people, but hand embroidery has also become specialized, especially its skills have advanced by leaps and bounds. According to the embroidery fragments unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province, although it has been buried underground for thousands of years, it is still beautifully embroidered, with diverse patterns and exquisite, and the proper use of color matching and stitches makes modern embroiderers feel ashamed.

It can be seen that embroidery technology was very popular in the Han Dynasty.

There have been dozens of stitches in the development of embroidery technology in Tang and Song Dynasties, and their styles have gradually formed different characteristics in various regions. Embroidery is not only embroidered on clothes, but also developed from the decoration of clothes to purely ornamental embroidery paintings, embroidered Buddhist scriptures, embroidered Buddha statues and so on. According to legend, Wu Zetian ordered more than 400 embroidered Buddha statues to be given to temples and neighboring countries, which shows that the embroidered Buddha statues in the Tang Dynasty have become extremely popular. Before the Tang Dynasty, embroidery was mostly for practical and decorative purposes, and the content of embroidery was related to the needs and customs of life.

Embroidery works in Song Dynasty are not only practical products, but also devoted to embroidery. Since the Jin and Tang Dynasties, literati have been fond of painting and calligraphy. Calligraphy and painting was the highest art form at that time. In the Song Dynasty, it was more about silk embroidery. Calligraphy and painting style directly affects embroidery style.

Embroidery in Ming Dynasty is the most novel and famous. Sprinkling embroidery is based on two twisted yarns, and the hole embroidery of square hole yarn is mainly based on geometric patterns, or supplemented by velvet main flowers.

In the middle of Qing Dynasty, the country became prosperous and the people lived and worked in peace and contentment, and embroidery technology was further developed and improved. Local embroidery schools have sprung up like mushrooms after rain, and the famous ones are Suzhou embroidery, Guangdong embroidery, Shu embroidery and Hunan embroidery.

Suzhou embroidery

Suzhou embroidery originated in Wuxian County, Suzhou. As early as the Three Kingdoms period, there were records about the production of Suzhou embroidery, which has a history of nearly 2000 years. According to legend, during the Three Kingdoms period, Sun Quan, the king of Wu, ordered Zhao Dacheng's sister to embroider the map of the world by hand, and embroidered the five mountains, rivers, oceans, cities, rows and other patterns on the silk, which was called "all nations are embroidered in one brocade". By the Song Dynasty, it had reached a certain scale. In Suzhou, there are workshops and alleys with centralized production, such as embroidery workshops, embroidery alleys, rolling embroidery workshops and embroidery lines. Suzhou embroidery in Ming Dynasty has become a popular mass sideline in Suzhou, forming a situation of "every family raises silkworms and embroiders". Jiangnan has developed into a silk handicraft center.

The Qing Dynasty was the heyday of Su embroidery, which was characterized by various schools and famous artists. A large number of embroideries used by the royal family are almost all made by Suzhou embroidery artists. Folk is rich and colorful, widely used in clothing, costumes, quilts, pillow bags, curtains, cushions, uppers, sachets, fan bags and so on. These Suzhou embroidery works not only have diverse stitches, exquisite embroidery and elegant colors, but also contain festive, longevity and auspicious patterns, which are deeply loved by the masses. There is also a kind of "painting embroidery" which belongs to advanced appreciation and is called "boudoir embroidery". At the end of Qing Dynasty, Shen Shou initiated "simulated embroidery", which was well-known overseas. She has received apprentices in Suzhou, Beijing, Tianjin, Nantong and other places, and cultivated a new generation. In 1930s, Yang Shouyu, director of painting and embroidery department of Danyang Zheng Zheng Women's Vocational School, initiated the disorderly needle embroidery, which enriched the skills of Suzhou embroidery. Suzhou embroidery is famous for its exquisiteness and elegance. Beautiful patterns, quiet colors, flexible stitches, meticulous embroidery and vivid images.

Hunan embroidery

Xiang embroidery is the general name of embroidery products centered on Changsha, Hunan. Originated from folk embroidery, it has a history of more than 2000 years. The earliest discovered object is a picture of the Dragon and Phoenix found in the Chu Tomb in Changsha in 1958. 1972, 40 embroidered clothes and one embroidered brocade were unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb. There are many kinds of embroidery patterns 10, embroidery thread 18 colors, and various stitches are used to achieve the state of neat stitches, free and easy lines and skillful embroidery. During Jiaqing period of Qing Dynasty, there were many women embroidery in Changsha County. In the 24th year of Guangxu (1898), Wu, the son of an outstanding embroiderer Hu Lianxian, opened the first "Wu Caixia Embroidery Workshop" in Changsha. Xiang embroidery is famous all over the country because its works are excellent and spread all over the country.

Xiang embroidery is characterized by embroidery with velvet thread (untwisted wool thread), carefully splitting the silk, and the realistic suede pattern of the embroidery. It is usually based on Chinese painting. Rich and bright colors, with special emphasis on shades of yin and yang, vivid posture and bold style, enjoy the reputation of "embroidery can produce fragrance, embroidered birds can listen, embroidered tigers can run, and embroidered people can convey the spirit".

Yuexiu

Also known as "Guangxiu", it is an embroidery product produced in Guangdong. Come down in one continuous line with Li brocade. Form a style in the middle and late Ming Dynasty. It is characterized in that: 1. Various threads are used, besides silk thread and wool thread, twisted strands of peacock hair are also used as threads, or ponytail wrapped wool is used as threads. Second, bright colors, strong contrast, emphasizing gorgeous effects. The third is to use gold thread as the outline of embroidery pattern. Fourth, the ornamentation is full and lively. Common themes with local characteristics include birds flying at the phoenix, seafood, fish and shrimp, bergamot and melon.

Fifth, embroidery workers are mostly male workers. There are many kinds of embroidery, such as quilt cover, pillowcase, bed lintel, shawl, headscarf, table curtain, embroidered clothes, shoes and hats, clothing and so on. There are also mirror screens and hanging screens.

Guangdong embroidery began in the Tang Dynasty. There is a true story about Guangxiu. In the Tang Dynasty, there was a Guangdong girl named Lu Meiniang who was 14 years old. She embroidered a roll of Buddhist scripture "Hokkekyo" on a one-foot square silk. The font is smaller than Xiaomi, and the stippling is clear. This story shows that Guangxiu has such a long history and extraordinary skills. Light embroidery developed to the Ming Dynasty and has become one of the important folk handicrafts.

In the ninth year of Zheng De in Ming Dynasty (15 14), a Portuguese businessman bought dragon robe embroidery in Guangzhou, returned to China and presented it to the king, and received a generous reward. Since then, Guangxiu has become famous overseas, and many products are exported abroad every year. In the thirty-fifth year of Jiajing (1556), crozet, a Portuguese, marveled at some Cantonese embroidery crafts such as beaded embroidered shoes. At that time, Guangzhou embroidery artists had reached a high level. They could skillfully and creatively use wool embroidery, using peacock hair and ponytail to make and tie threads, and using gold thread and silver thread to embroider.

The late Ming Dynasty to the middle Qing Dynasty was the prosperous period of Guangdong embroidery industry. British businessmen began to sample processing. Due to the rich colors of the sample patterns, the artistic characteristics of western paintings are highlighted, and the principles of perspective and light refraction are applied, which has a far-reaching impact on Guangdong embroidery. Guangxiu began to transform from small batch production in small folk workshops to commodity production. Mass production of a wide range of embroidery products used for interior decoration and daily clothes has made its export enter its heyday. By the middle of the Qing Dynasty, due to the prosperity of Cantonese opera and Cantonese opera, new varieties of Cantonese opera costumes were added to Cantonese embroidery. At that time, the costumes made by Guangzhou Zhuangyuanfang were very famous in China, and even the court troupe came to customize them. During the Qianlong period, Guangzhou embroidery has become a city, with as many as 50 embroidery workshops and embroidery villages and more than 3,000 employees.

At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, Guangdong embroidery industry still maintained its development momentum. In the embroidery exhibition competition of four provinces and cities held in Guangzhou from 65438 to 0929, Guangxiu was rated as one of the four famous embroideries in China for its peacock peony, Fan Shi and snow scene.

Sichuan embroidery

Also known as "Sichuan embroidery", it is the general name of embroidery products centered on Chengdu, Sichuan. According to the records of Huayang Guozhi, a regular song in Jin Dynasty, Shu embroidery was very famous at that time, just like Shu brocade, and both of them were praised as treasures in Shu. During the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, Sichuan successively established two dynasties, namely the pre-Shu Dynasty and the post-Shu Dynasty. At that time, there were frequent wars in the Central Plains, and only Sichuan was able to take the lead, which created convenient conditions for the development of embroidery. At the same time, there is a great demand for embroidery, which also stimulates the development of folk embroidery. In the Song Dynasty, the world was unified, and Shu embroidery had a greater development. According to "All Shu Arts and Literature Records", "Sichuan is rich in soil, producing silk and silk, and people make ice embroidery and other things, ranking first in the world." It can be seen that embroidery in Shu was flourishing at that time.

During Daoguang period of Qing Dynasty, Shu embroidery has formed specialized production, and there are many embroidery shops in Chengdu, which both embroider and sell. Satin and colored silk are the main raw materials. The theme contains many auspicious meanings such as mountains and rivers, people, flowers and birds, insects and fish, and is full of folk colors. There are quilts, pillowcases, embroidery, uppers and other daily necessities, as well as table screens, hanging screens and other appreciation products.