Debugging steps of wall-hung boiler

Lead: The wall-hung boiler needs to be debugged just after it is bought back or broken, and then it can work normally. Some of you have never used a wall-hung boiler and don't know how to debug it daily. In fact, it is necessary to know more about life. Let's introduce the daily debugging of the wall-hung boiler.

This debugging method is suitable for the first use or when water needs to be replenished after power failure (gas failure) and there is no resident drainage for a long time. The steps are as follows:

1. Cut off the power supply of the wall-hung boiler and open all valves and exhaust valves connected to the system (including water separator, radiator, pump exhaust valve, etc.). ).

2. Open the tap water valve at the bottom of the wall-hung boiler, and then turn the water replenishing valve counterclockwise (preferably half open) to let tap water enter the heating system. Observe the pressure gauge on the wall-hung boiler (some models have no pressure gauge, please check the pressure value displayed on the display screen). When the pressure reaches 1.5bar, close the makeup valve clockwise, and at the same time close all exhaust valves except the automatic exhaust valve on the water pump.

3. Check the pressure gauge again to ensure that the system water pressure is1.0-1.5 bar (between1.0-1.5 kg). Be sure to close the makeup valve, otherwise the overpressure relief valve of the system will always leak water, which may soak indoor items. On the other hand, if the tap water is cut off, the wall-hung boiler will stop working because of water loss.

4. Turn on the power and turn on the gas valve? Open it? Then set the wall-hung boiler to summer mode, and press the up and down keys to adjust the bath water temperature. After the toilet water runs normally, set the wall-hung boiler to winter mode, turn off the faucet and debug the heating system.

Note: Be sure to run the bathroom system before running the heating system. Otherwise, the water flow sensor will burn out due to high temperature because the heating system is running in the state of water shortage in the bathroom pipeline.

5. In winter mode, run for about 10 minute (in principle, the water in the system takes a turn), and observe the pressure of the water pressure gauge and whether there is running water in the system. If there is running water or the water meter pressure drops below 1. At this time, step 1-4 needs to be repeated (sometimes many times) until there is no sound of water flow in the system, and the fixed pressure of the water pressure gauge is relatively fixed at a certain value between 1- 1.5. The reason for repeated water replenishment is that when the system is running, the air soaked in water flows to the exhaust valve of the water pump and is discharged from the system, resulting in a drop in water pressure.

If there is too much overpressure when replenishing water carelessly, you can drain water through the drain valve and exhaust valve on the radiator. For floor heating pipes (or radiators) without drain valves, the following methods can be used to drain and relieve pressure: close the tap water valve? Open the makeup valve counterclockwise? Then open the hot water valve (or shower head) to release the pressure. When the pressure reaches 1.0- 1.5bar (the best pressure range)? Turn off the hot water valve (or shower head)? Then close the makeup valve clockwise? Finally, open the tap water valve (there is no domestic hot water without opening it).

Frequently occurring faults during initial ignition:

1) Lack of air and no ignition: you can judge by the sound of ignition and no combustion. Generally, there is air in the newly installed gas pipe (which needs to be discharged manually), the gas valve is not opened or the gas meter (expired) does not work;

2) The water pump is stuck: it often reflects the sudden increase of temperature display and reports overheating fault. At this time, turn the water pump impeller several times with a flat-blade screwdriver (see the instruction manual).

3) The actual air pressure is too large or too small. The standard adaptive pressure of a wall-hung boiler is 2000P for natural gas and 1000P for gas. However, in actual users, the air pressure has different degrees of deviation. When it reaches a certain value, either the air intake is too small to catch fire, or the air flow is too large to blow out the flame. At this time, professionals need to adjust the pressure before and after the gas valve, or adjust the opening and closing degree of the gas valve.

4) If the speed of fan or water pump is not enough, report the wind pressure fault or overheating fault. At this time, it is possible that the external power supply is not grounded or the voltage is too low.

5) Overheating fault or instantaneous pressure rise of water pressure gauge: On the premise of eliminating pump sticking, there is a lot of air in the system, and air is transported more by thermal expansion coefficient than water. At this time, it is necessary to replenish water and exhaust again through the above-mentioned replenishment action.

But when the heating system works, the pressure will rise, which is normal and caused by the thermal expansion of water. As long as it is within a reasonable range, the wall-hung boiler will be automatically cut off by secondary water pressure protection (as mentioned above).