Memories

My hometown, Luxi, Qimen, southern Anhui, has been producing ancha for hundreds of years. Ancha is not from Lu 'an, West Anhui, and its production technology is far from that of West Anhui tea. Maocha is between green tea and black tea, and the post-fermentation technology of black tea was added in the later stage. However, Lu 'an tea became famous early, and when ancha sold it mainly in Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao and Nanyang in his early years, it did expand the market in its name. The existing old tea tickets in Qimen ancha have the words "Choose buds before the rain in Lu 'an", while Nanyang's understanding of ancha is often "Liu 'an basket of tea", so there is a lot of confusion. Grandfather Wang Zhenxiang confirmed that "Ancha" means "settling internal organs". Customers in eastern Guangdong are convinced that ancha, which has been aged for more than three years, has the effect of eliminating dampness and relieving summer heat. Mr. Fu Hongzhen's Qimen Tea Industry records: "Sun Yishun's Nanxiang products have a history of more than 100 years ... Lingnan doctors often take Sun Yishun's tea as a mirror."

In the middle of the Republic of China, there were 47 tea shops in Qimen. China Tea Book says that Monday Shun is the most famous one. Probably a clerical error, it should be Sun Yishun. Sun Yishun is not a person's name. It was founded in 1725 and started in Sun Shi. It used to be called "Sun Yishun" because we should be loyal to others and strive for success in business. 1937, the Japanese army occupied Poyang Lake, which coincided with Sun Yishun's tea shopkeeper transporting tea here and being hijacked by the Japanese army. The shopkeeper narrowly escaped, but was kidnapped by bandits on the way and demanded ransom from his family. But he didn't want to pay the ransom, and he didn't want to be torn up. The business road was blocked, so he stopped production. Teacher Shu Qingling of Qimen chayuan wrote a brief introduction to ancha at 1985, saying that the last batch of ancha produced at 1946 and 1937 arrived in Foshan with unprecedented pomp. It was exported to Singapore at a high price of $240 a load, and then it took more than half a century.

In recent years, ancha has become lively and chaotic. Grandpa and Sun Yishun are the names that can't be avoided in the recovery of ancha. Grandfather Wang Zhenxiang was born in 1950 and died last year at the age of 68. At the age of 25, I inherited my grandfather's business. Here, I want to talk about my grandfather and Ancha for your understanding.

Ancha recovered from the souvenir of death.

From 65438 to 0983, Mr Guan Fenfa, president of Hong Kong Tea Foundation, went to Anhui Tea General Administration to find ancha, inquired about Qimen County Tea Bureau, and finally found Luxi. For ancha, the local people have long been indifferent or forgotten, leaving only early tea leaves and incomplete tea tickets. Grandpa was studying to make black tea in Qimen chayuan and Qimen Tea Factory. I heard that Qimen Agriculture Bureau organized ancha to recycle it and send it to Hongkong. Mr. Guan replied that it was not the smell of ancha. This made grandpa curious and confused. He found that the restored ancha in 1983 was made of old leaves, while the old tea ticket recorded that it was "made of delicate true spring buds purchased in Luxi before the rain." Curiosity drove grandpa to pick up the buds and make them. Tea samples were sent to Mr. Guan and got a reply: the appearance is similar. The taste is ok, but it still doesn't work.

Grandpa thinks it is impossible to restore the lost skills by one person alone. So I went door to door looking for the old man who opened the old teahouse. Every old man can only remember part of his skills. At that time, they were still too young, and the families who opened tea shops in western Shandong were very rich, and few people made their own tea. Old people are scrambling to think about some steps and practices, sometimes contradictory, and sometimes they can't remember the order. The problem is that if one step is missing and the order is out of order, all previous efforts will be wasted. Grandpa kept searching and experimenting. "It's like reassembling a pile of time fragments into a puzzle of memory." A year later, the sample tea made according to the memories of the old people was forwarded to Hong Kong again. Soon, he received a reply from Hong Kong tea people, which made great progress over the previous year, but there is still a long way to go from ancha.

At this time, ancha's recovery reached an impasse, and my grandfather found the descendant of Sun Yishun's teahouse, old Wang Man Shou Kang. The old man's family is in decline, and his children and grandchildren are unwilling to make tea. My grandfather visited us many times, hoping to restore Ancha. The old man was very moved and accepted my grandfather as an apprentice. When ancha stopped production, Wang was about 19 years old, and his father Wang Risan died before he could teach him all the skills. Old people in their eighties can only provide some memories about ancha. Combining the previous experience in making ancha and the techniques introduced by several old people, such as Master Wang Shoukang, my grandfather made unremitting research, trial production, sorting out and listing reasonable steps. It was used for three years, and finally it was approved by Mr. Guan Fenfa at 199 1. Master Wang Shoukang was also very excited, saying that the tea made by his grandfather was exactly the same as that made by his family.

1992, Jiangnan Chun Tea Factory was established in Luxi Township, and my grandfather became the first factory director. The name "Sun Yishun" has been used since mass production in ancha. This year, ancha was once again selected as a high-quality special tea in the Anhui Famous Tea Award (1988 for the first time). A few years later, my grandfather stopped being the factory director for various reasons and went home to recuperate. At that time, the family was poor and had no financial resources. My grandfather made a living by fishing and worked in the water for a long time, and there were signs of gout. After several years of transformation, my grandfather's ancha received a good response, and Guangdong dealers unanimously asked my grandfather to go out of the mountain to be a ancha. So in 1997, my grandfather resigned as the director of the enterprise office, invested in the establishment of "Sun Yi Shun 'an Tea Factory", devoted himself to making tea, and put the profits from fishing for several years and his salary for many years into the tea factory. At the suggestion of Chen, a manager who deals in the export of Guangdong native animal products, he applied for the registration of the trademark "Sun Yishun" and issued it the following year.

At first, ancha was unknown and tepid. Until SARS in 2003, the medicinal value of ancha spread like wildfire in Guangdong, and the market broke through. In 20 13, Grandpa's ancha attracted a collector, Mr. Ping Liu, to invest in ancha, shoot the story of ancha, and published a book, ancha is Back, which appeared in major exhibitions, pushing the heat of ancha up again. Sun Yishun has once again become the most widely known font name in ancha.

Ancha's baton

Ancha was mass-produced in 1992, and I was born in 1993. It happened that my grandfather went to Guangdong alone to sell ancha. My grandfather has only two daughters. I am the eldest grandson. I have followed my grandfather since I was a child and watched him make tea. Grandpa, who has been cautious all his life, wants me to study hard, go to college and choose the major of economic management. He often said: "The normal and stable operation and development of tea factories are inseparable from the management of managers and the support of the economy. The accounts must be clear and the economy must be controlled. I haven't missed an account since I opened the factory for so many years. This is not only your calculation, but also a proof of your intentions. Everyone will trust you. " Maybe I have a hunch. Before I graduated from high school, my grandfather, who paid great attention to education, made a 180 degree turn and called me to him. He said earnestly, "I have been busy for the first half of my life. I began to contact tea in my forties and became a ancha native. It's not easy to walk all the way, and a lot of hard work and energy have been paid. I wanted you to study economics and teach you how to make tea after you have achieved something, but ancha can't learn to understand it thoroughly in a year or so. Without three or five years, it is impossible to personally participate in the production of each link and my personal guidance. I'll teach you how to make tea while I'm still healthy. Sooner or later, I will come back to take my place. I might as well make tea by my side as soon as possible. It's not easy to find the ancha craftsmanship that has been lost for decades. I have gone through many detours and setbacks. I also hope that after I leave, you can inherit my mantle and support my facade. There are also successors. " Said a lot. I couldn't sleep at night for days and nights. I watched my grandfather suffer from severe gout day by day. His joints are prominent and deformed, but his love and obsession with making tea has not diminished at all. As if out of the bondage of physical pain, the soul has been happy, addicted to tea, tea into the body and mind. At that time, although it was difficult for me to understand my grandfather Ancha's heartfelt love and obsession, I thought I could not live up to his grandfather's kindness and should stay with him, so I made up my mind to inherit his grandfather's mantle and learn to be Ancha.

July 20 13, officially began to learn to be an apprentice in ancha. Grandpa orders to do four things every day. First of all, after getting up and washing in the morning, you should respectfully incense the God of Wealth at home. Second, sweep the floor and clean the table. Third, observe the production process in ancha. Fourth, visitors bring tea and small benches to attend. It was not until around Grain Rain in 20 14 that ancha entered primary school in the new year. Grandpa said very seriously: everything starts from the foundation, and the iron soldiers will be convinced by themselves. The core is in your own hands, and you can't short the shelf. So the devil's study began, and I personally participated in every process of ancha. Fixing, rolling, drying, drying, etc. Day after day, year after year. My grandfather is very strict and seldom praises me. What he often hears is: "I hate that iron doesn't turn into steel." Even the slightest mistake will face reprimand. But after grandpa left, I never heard his voice again. Perhaps death is a relief, but it is more of a disappointment.

In 20 17, ancha's craft was mastered, recognized by his grandfather and officially started. 20 18 can be regarded as my first year of making tea independently, with encouragement, support, doubt and wait and see. Soon after my grandfather died, can I, a young man in my twenties, produce tea steadily, take over the industry and live in the town? In the voice, I put away my grief, buried deep in my heart, arranged the original team of the tea factory, and made ancha according to the craft taught by my grandfather. Seven months later, new tea was produced and the response was very good. That's a satisfactory answer sheet. I hope grandpa can feel gratified and gratified in the spirit of heaven. Everything is fine, I have grown up, don't worry, I am in the factory, I am with you. Perhaps this is the inheritance, not only the inheritance of materials and skills, but also the continuation and sustenance of the sense of mission and responsibility.

From Sun Yishun to Gongsunshun

The name "Sun Yishun" was restored and carried forward by my grandfather, but the historical reasons of enterprise ownership caused confusion in the use of the trademark "Sun Yishun". After SARS in 2003, ancha ushered in a wave of rapid development. At that time, there were many local tea factories and farmers in Luxi, who used the trademark "Sun Yishun" at will without permission. Many people don't know ancha's production technology, so they make inferior products and confuse people. After 2008, ancha was unsalable, and many tea factories stopped production. It was not until the cooperation between Grandpa and Mr. Ping Liu was initiated and vigorously promoted that ancha was pushed to a new height. Sun Yishun became more and more famous, and counterfeit and pirated products appeared again, such as countless crucian carp crossing the river. Many "ancha" and tea tickets packaged by "Sun Yishun" are not in place, and even counterfeit other fake black tea. My grandfather has a kind heart. Apart from warning not to steal the brand, he did not take up legal weapons to safeguard his rights and interests. What worries me most is who made the ancha that consumers bought, and whether it is well-made and has long-term value. Regarding the strict use of the trademark "Sun Yishun", I am also actively negotiating with the local government, hoping to find a radical solution.

Comparison of true and false tea tickets

In the past, there were more than 40 tea brands in ancha, such as Sun Tongshun and Kang Yangchun. At present, only one brand "Sun Yishun" is unique, and there are many imitations. While inheriting my grandfather's career, I also want to make a new boutique ancha brand independently. Grandpa agreed to my idea, so I founded Huangshan Qimen Gongsun Shun 'an Tea Factory together with my grandfather, and registered the trademark "Gongsun Shun" in that year, which meant that grandpa taught his grandson, inherited Sun Yishun's skills and never gave up.

In 20 17, my grandfather gave me the first start-up fund and said, "It's entirely up to you. I just want to see the quality of tea produced at the end of the year. " I have mastered the process of making tea. Make tea during the day, keep accounts at night, prepare raw materials, plan the arrangement for the next day, and feel grandpa's hard work for many years. Eight months later, Sun Yishun and Gong Shunshun came out in unison, and Tang reviewed it in public. The comparison between them is equal. I laughed at my public experience: "Then I can rest assured that I will give you Sun Yishun's banner, but I must not disgrace my hard work for many years." One brand and two brands, adhere to tradition and be brave in pioneering. This is what I expect of you. "

In the past two years, Sun Yishun's ancha has been produced, and Sun Yishun's ancha has also been produced on a small scale. Considering that he imitated Sun Yishun too much, he registered his grandfather's head and name. In 20 18, he began to add his grandfather's head to the pattern of "Sun Yishun" tea ticket. I hope everyone will remember that his grandfather gave his life for tea, which will not be erased by time.

Grandpa passed away.

20 17 1 1, grandpa's gout got worse, and he was transferred to Tunxi via Qimen and then to Zhejiang for treatment. At that time, I thought grandpa would come back after a period of treatment as usual. Before he left, grandpa urged him: "Be sure to look after the factory, pay attention to the charcoal fire, and remember not to be careless." The last thousand kilos of tea are left in the factory. You must do it well. I believe you, too. You must ensure that the quality is consistent, and you must remember it! "Unexpectedly, the doctor told me that my grandfather had gout for a long time, his joints were severely deformed, and his visceral load was high. What's more, in recent decades, he has devoted a lot of energy to making tea, which has greatly damaged his vitality. 2018 65438+1In the early morning of October 6th, grandpa left the last sentence: "Stay alone, be a good person and make tea". In the factory he has run for more than 20 years, he quietly left with relief and disappointment. Grandpa devoted great efforts to ancha, and finally devoted his whole life to tea. It is also a kind of fate and reincarnation, which begins with tea and ends with tea, leaving only a matcha fragrance. Writing here, I have been sobbing, repeatedly choking, afraid to recall. I still can't accept the reality of my grandfather's death in my heart, and I have the same dream again and again. In my dream, my grandfather didn't die, and I still sat in the hall drinking tea as usual.

Safety inspection technology and grade

Grandpa always said: make tea, be a man first. When people are ready, tea is ready. I was puzzled before, but I felt deeply after my personal experience. People can cheat, but tea can't. Tea will treat you as you treat it. Still have to be a good person and make tea.

Ancha's craft was handed down from my grandfather, so we must not be careless. I spend eight months in a year preparing and making tea.

Ancha production attaches great importance to solar terms.

At first, the first stage of the system began in Grain Rain, and ended in the long summer. Since Grain Rain, tea has been growing vigorously, and drying green tea in the bright sunshine will be very expressive. The tender leaves of local tea plants in western Shandong were purchased before it rained, and then fixed, kneaded, dried and dried. The raw tea made in this way is preliminarily fermented, which is between green tea and black tea. It used to be called soft branch tea.

The second stage, screening, making raw tea, selecting, selecting color, grading and blending.

The third stage of refining must be carried out after the Millennium. Why must it be after a thousand years? "In August Festival, autumn is golden, golden and white, and the yin is getting heavier and heavier, showing white." It means the Millennium. At this time, the temperature drops, the water vapor goes down, and after the raw tea is grilled, it will be sunny and absorb the condensation of heaven and earth, and then it will be exposed to the sun for one night. After the baptism of dew, the transformation of tea in the later stage will be more pure, mellow and sweet. Then, fresh Indocalamus leaves are put in a small bamboo basket, steamed, pressed into the basket, and put into a roasting pit for charcoal roasting for 24 hours. Finally, ancha can be regarded as a real finished product.

When Grandpa first returned to ancha, the products were single. With the in-depth understanding of tea and market demand, Grandpa began to classify ancha. Now ancha's grades are basically in the order set by my grandfather.

Originally divided into tribute tip and special grade (later changed to first grade). Gong Jian is a small basket of 250g, and the first class is a big basket of 500g. Grandpa turned over the book, and in light years, the word Gong was a tribute to the royal family. The word "sword" implies that tea tips, buds and tea tickets have detailed regulations. Before the rain, the first-class crude tea is purchased, with delicate and real spring buds as raw materials.

Later, grandpa made a more detailed division of grades. From high to low, they are special-special-Gong Jian-Maojian level. 20 13 ancha, the local standard of Anhui province, takes the grade designated by my grandfather as the prototype template, and the grade is Tegong-Gong Jian-Maojian-I-II.

In 20 14, my grandfather's legs and feet were still neat, and many local tea gardens were deserted, so my grandfather contacted the owner of the abandoned tea garden to arrange picking production. The unique long lasting charm and rich taste of the finished product are deeply loved by tea customers, so it was named "Wild ancha", with limited annual output, which was basically bought out by one or two tea merchants. In recent years, the follow-up output of Yuan Ye in western Shandong is also increasing.

Luxi is only 80 meters above sea level. In the past, the raw materials used in ancha were not high in altitude. 20 18, the relatively high altitude Chashan was found, with green leaves, delicate fragrance and rich flavor. After the acquisition, it was named "Gaoshan Gong Ming", which received excellent response and was swept away by a tea friend in Hefei.

What's the smell of old ancha?

In recent years, with the rise of Sun Yishun's fame in ancha, there are more and more so-called aged ancha in the market. Many people who love tea send me tea samples to share and communicate. In recent years, ancha has been labeled for more than ten years.

I drink tea of various years in the factory every day, and I have some experience in grasping the years, which I want to share with you.

—— Xin 'an tea has been baked with charcoal fire for 24 hours, and it has strong charcoal fire fragrance and leaf fragrance. The lines are tight, the color is moist, the entrance fire fragrance is full, the leaf fragrance is rich, the appearance is bitter, and it gradually turns sweet. The tea soup is orange and the leaves are brown and blue.

—— Chen 'an tea for one year, the firepower is halved, the tea fragrance is combined with Zongye fragrance, the bitterness is reduced, the sweetness returns quickly, the tongue coating is smooth, the cheeks are full of saliva, the hanging cup fragrance is obviously slightly sweet, and the fragrance is lasting. The tea soup is dark orange and the leaves are brown and blue.

-In two to three years, most of Ancha's firepower has subsided, and the firepower still exists. Ancha's unique tea fragrance is gradually highlighted, with faint woody fragrance, mellow and smooth entrance, full of charm, and the cool feeling of palm leaves is remarkable, refreshing and quick to return to sweetness. After about 7 times of brewing, jujube fragrance will become prominent. The tea soup is dark orange, and the leaves are brownish blue with black.

-Three years later, ancha will usher in a leap-forward change, and officially begin to advance towards the word "Chen". Dry tea is moist and shiny. Is it fragrant? Highlights (the difference between stale taste and musty taste: stale taste is a unique aroma brought by a variety of aromatic substances produced by the corresponding oxidation of tea contents, while musty taste is generally pungent and sour. The entrance is mellow, full of charm, fragrant with licorice, sweet and upright, and durable. Tea soup is ruddy and transparent, with dark leaves with a little green.

-ancha, about ten years old, is dark and full of old fragrance, including betel nut fragrance, licorice fragrance and ginseng fragrance. The taste is mellow, sweet and refreshing, with a slightly gelatinous texture. The tea rhyme is long, straight to the heart, and it produces saliva quickly. The soup is black, red and purple, oily and fresh, and the tea is dark brown and textured.

20 18 welcomed two predecessors of Taiwanese tea industry, Zhou Yu and He Jie, who had the honor to share their old ancha, which was a cross-time communication between the new and old grandchildren and ancha. After drinking two kinds of advanced ancha for 40 years and 90 years, the soup is deep red and shiny, full of medicinal fragrance, delicate water quality, rich colloidal texture, smooth and sweet, and elegant tea fragrance.

To drink good old ancha, warehousing is also a university question. Tea of the same year and grade in the factory has different expressive force in different environments, and there is a great contrast between the south and north warehouses, so the environment has a greater impact on the changes in ancha. How to preserve it properly, ensure that it can be transformed to a better degree and maintain the original flavor will continue and improve in this step? In modern times, ancha often only introduces the word "Chen", which is old but not moldy, old but not rotten, and the older it is, the more precious it is. I think besides the word "Chen", ancha is also expensive in the way of "change". Ancha's aging is like a person's growth. The fresh tea is thick green, soft and full after the fire, and mellow and tall after Chen Fang. Each stage has its own unique charm, and the charm and experience of each node have surprises.

Tea accompanies me, that is, grandpa accompanies me. Like my grandfather, I would like to grow up and grow old with ancha.

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