The Development and Evolution of the Chinese Cheongsam from the 1920s to the Present Day

The cheongsam, as a traditional Chinese dress, was popularized in the 1920s and has become the object of admiration for many women in the present day. The cheongsam is not only lightweight and suitable for the body, but also can fully reflect the women's beautiful posture and smooth lines, thus showing the women very slim and handsome. As the unique gospel of Chinese women, the design and development of cheongsam changes with the evolution of the times and interests and hobbies, in the process of emphasizing the humanistic factors into the first people to grasp the focus; human beings since the beginning of the pursuit of aesthetics, and the need for such aesthetics is precisely a high-level external manifestation of the humanistic factors of human beings; our ancestors will be the humanistic factors of the era reasonably integrated into the cheongsam, so that the cheongsam in its shape fully demonstrates its beauty. The cheongsam fully demonstrates female beauty in its modeling, properly conceals excessive "sexual" sense, and extends the oriental charm in the desire of aesthetics and beauty to stretch the charm of personality to the fullest.

1 Human factors on the impact of design

With the development of the times, scientific and technological innovation, our living standards are getting higher and higher, and our material life has reached an unprecedented richness, but the negative impacts of the industrialization process has made us soberly aware of the spirit of people's innovation, awareness, and passion, can not be separated from good humanistic qualities and the humanities environment, in which humanistic factors play an important role in the process of innovation, the humanistic factors play an important role in the process of innovation. In this regard, the humanistic factor plays an unignorable role in the process of innovation. Human factors, as a response to our spiritual dimension, fundamentally control the changes and development of the material side, and the physiological needs that we need are affected by certain human factors - including ergonomics, culture, and psychology - which affect our choices when designing (especially apparel design).

Clothing is not a picture hanging on the wall, it is not only the appearance of beautiful to meet our human needs, wearing comfortable to make it the ultimate goal, as a representative of the traditional Chinese dress, cheongsam design and development is our ancestors reasonable human factors imposed on the success of clothing design. Material development cannot be separated from spiritual comfort, and there is a process of intermingling between clothing and human beings, in which the humanistic factors are fully taken into account for the success of the design. The reason why the cheongsam has become the pride of our Chinese women's apparel is that this is the reason.

2 Analysis of human factors in the history of cheongsam design

2.1 History of cheongsam development

Cheongsam, as a member of the large family of robes, can be traced back to the Spring and Autumn and the Warring States period of the deep clothes. In fact, the deep clothes and robes are quite different, the former upper and lower cut, the effect is equivalent to the upper and lower garments into one; robes are not divided into upper and lower, basically lost the significance of the upper and lower garments, and later robes were gradually accepted as a stable clothing style, and the upper and lower garments of the service system in parallel. Robe since the Han Dynasty was used for court dress, the style of the successive generations have changed system, the Han Dynasty, deep clothes system robe, Tang Dynasty, round neck tuck robe, Ming Dynasty, straight, are typical of the wide body robe. The robe thus represents a kind of leisure life of the upper class and cultural people who do not engage in production. Wide clothes and big robes, praising clothes and broad belt, gradually became a symbol of the clothing civilization in the Central Plains.

Popular in the minority areas of the robe, generally more tight fit, in order to facilitate the riding and shooting or other intense activities, this style of clothing more than the use of overlapping left, narrow sleeves, the robe body is more modest. Historically, the Han Chinese people have also adopted this narrow fit robe style, and our modern popular cheongsam is derived from the mid-sixteenth century Manchu women's national costume. With the Qing Dynasty into the Central Plains and consolidate power, the Qing rulers began to enforce the implementation of clothing reform, set off a powerful wave of pheasants hair and easy to dress, so that the traditional crown and clothing was banned, the rise of the robe system clothes, so as to assimilate the Han people with clothing. To the late Qing Dynasty, Manchu and Han Chinese women's clothing styles quietly intermingled, so that the difference between the two sides of the dress is increasingly reduced, and then became the prelude to the popularity of the cheongsam across the country.

The 1911 Xinhai Revolution overthrew the last feudal dynasty in Chinese history, removing political obstacles to the popularization of Western-style clothing in China, and Western-style Chinese dress was bustling with activity. The old-style cheongsam robes were abandoned, and the new-style cheongsam robes began to brew in the chaotic world of makeup. At this time the dress tends to be simple, the color is trying to be elegant, focusing on reflecting the natural beauty of women. 30s and 40s is the heyday of the cheongsam, its basic silhouette has reached maturity. 30s later improved cheongsam in the structure of the structure of the cheongsam draws on the western tailoring methods, so the robe is more suitable for the body fit. Although the cheongsam was born in the Qing Dynasty, it was different from the old one, and became the standard dress of modern Chinese women, and continues to this day.

2.2 Ergonomic analysis of the cheongsam

The traditional cheongsam was first styled as a robe worn by women of the Eight Banners during the Shunzhi period of the Qing Dynasty when the capital was built in Beijing. Because of the aesthetic needs of the time to meet the needs of survival at the same time, subject to the limitations of feudal etiquette, first in order to facilitate the military women on the horse galloped and killed, its clothing using straight and hard style, wide hemline, do not take in the waist, narrow sleeves, the shape of the fat; after the settlement of the society began to stabilize, and no longer need to be a woman to hunt on horseback, this time the cheongsam body is more broad, modeling lines are straight and hard, the clothes long to the ankle, high collar, cover the cheeks and touch the earlobes. Cover the cheeks touch earlobes, robe body collar, sleeves, lapel, train have multiple broad piping, the purpose is to wear. The cultural fusion of Manchu and Han Chinese people made embroidery introduced into the decoration of cheongsam, and the whole piece of clothing was decorated with lace, thus visually satisfying people's psychological needs, but its aesthetic characteristics were still based on the sick appreciation level of the Qing feudal rulers and did not reveal the natural beauty of the form, and the cheongsam was styled as hard and straight, and the dress patterns were heavy instead of emphasizing the human body's curves; the clothes, although based on the human body, were not ultimately determined by the human form, and the human form was not the final decision of the body. Although clothes are formed on the basis of the human body, the human form does not ultimately determine the style of clothing; the confinement of women by feudalism makes the design and production of the cheongsam not fully based on the characteristics of women's body modeling, which is a deprivation of women's freedom.

To the modern era, by the influence of Western humanistic ideas, functional requirements gradually prominent, cheongsam clothing began to emphasize the expression of the human body lines, pay attention to the expression of the human body's hips and breasts, tightening the waist, making the curves after modification of modeling to provide a human-centered aesthetic awareness, aesthetic modeling change in the chest, waist, hips were straight and rigid state of the habit of cutting clothes tend to be fitted to fit, the use of the golden ratio of positioning, in order to emphasize the female body curves with the female body. At the same time, emphasizing the fit with the female body curves, sweeping the Qing Dynasty style of ornamentation, to simplify, so as to fully set off the Oriental women's slender posture, faithfully sketched out the human body silhouette curves, so that women exudes a seductive charm.

2.3 Cultural connotation of cheongsam

The generation of aesthetic sense is repeated many times in the aesthetic activities to get repeated many times to satisfy the continuation of the satisfaction will produce aesthetic culture. Clothing is a pure appearance of things, this beauty is entitled to choose, is the external embodiment of man-made culture, cultural content is the connotation, and clothing modeling, color is the extension; clothing culture to the people who love the beauty of the theoretical basis for the creation of beauty.

Cheongsam, in the process of its development and change, has a national cultural connotation that cannot be ignored. It moderately emphasizes the "S" curve of women, and embodies the quality of dress with the natural simplicity of modeling, which is solemn, elegant and dignified, making it the best corrosion for attending solemn occasions. And the modern cheongsam is a gentle liberation of the human body. The three-dimensional shape of the cheongsam is suitable for our women's physical characteristics, but also in line with the general aesthetic tendencies of the Chinese people, reflecting the unique charm of the Orient and the cultural content of the Chinese nation.

The lines of cheongsam are simple and fluent, euphemistic and subtle, in the "dew" at the same time pay attention to the "cover", which is more charming, so that the women's legs for the first time to bathe in the sun, so that the natural beauty of the beauty of the community to become universally accepted and appreciated, which is to show the external beauty of the people at the same time stretching the inner world, this show of beauty of the inner world, which is to show the external beauty of the people at the same time. At the same time stretch the inner world, this show of course, someone's own temperament of the role. Clothes are worn on the surface of the human body, but the cultural and technical content cohesive in the clothing plays an important role in mobilizing and exploring the potential qualifications of human beings. Cheongsam is in the mingling of national cultures, it inherits the tradition at the same time, injecting new culture, new ideas, so as a national spirit and the embodiment of traditional Chinese clothing culture, it can lead the times.

2.4 Psychological and social needs on the cheongsam

Modern cheongsam was born in the Qing Dynasty Manchu women's clothing, which is the Chinese clothing absorbed Western clothing styles and constantly improved and stereotyped, but the process was completed in the specific social needs of the time. The popularity of the cheongsam in the Qing Dynasty was due to the result of feudalism and autocracy, and the society at that time needed a kind of unified dress to accomplish the purpose of the political ruler to unify the Central Plains from the cultural point of view. The 1911 Xinhai Revolution overthrew the last feudal dynasty in China's history, the popularity of Western-style clothing in China to clear the political obstacles, Western-style Chinese dress bustling and everywhere, the old-style cheongsam robes were abandoned, the new cheongsam in the chaotic make-up began to brew. At that time, China had just left the bondage of feudalism, the freedom of the people's hearts to be released, the people of the West (including clothing) has a sense of freshness, and so in the slow acceptance of Western things in the process of China's fashion designers will be cheongsam and foreign popular dress together, constituting the Republic of China is still popular cheongsam of the large. This popularity of foreign thoughts at that time originated from the confinement of people by thousands of years of feudalism; nevertheless, it was psychologically impossible for Chinese people to completely abandon the traditional dress modeling, and thus the beautiful styling of the cheongsam's big popularity era in the 20s and 30s appeared. In modern times, due to our pursuit of traditional culture and the unique charm of the cheongsam itself, many women still choose the cheongsam as the best dress to show their beautiful curves. Wearing it, not only can better reflect the Oriental women's slender body and elegant and dignified style, but also reflects the respect for the occasion and the host to express the intention, but also shows the distinctive, extraordinary personality characteristics, which has all the advantages, making the cheongsam unquestionably become the representative of the modern traditional Chinese dress.