Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional culture - Exquisite Yugur costume culture
Exquisite Yugur costume culture
In history, the Yugur people are a people who "live by weeds". Their ancestors lived in the northwest of China a long time ago and interacted with all ethnic groups there. In this process, Yugur costumes are not only closely related to nomadic culture, but also subtly influenced by neighboring ethnic groups. In addition, the ethnic origin and the history of the formation of Yugur nationality have also caused the diversified components of Yugur costume culture. The clothing style of Yugur nationality is similar to that of Tibetans and Mongolians, and they all belong to robes. However, because the Yugur people have their own specific living environment and lifestyle, their own unique historical traditions and aesthetics, they have formed a style different from other ethnic groups.
Yugur people wear self-woven brown shirts or felt coats. In winter, the rich wear fine leather and the poor wear smooth leather. Women wear ornaments such as long heads and faces. They are good at embroidery. They often embroider flowers and animals, especially animals, on collars, sleeves and cloth boots. Their images are vivid and unique.
Yugur costumes are colorful and rich in connotation. Although Yugur people coexist in two languages, live in the ecological environment of mountains, deserts and grasslands, manage animal husbandry and live in harmony with other Tibetan, Mongolian, Han and other ethnic groups for a long time, and have experienced a long historical evolution, they still preserve the rich costumes and cultural characteristics of the ancient northern grassland riding ethnic groups. Yugur men and women wear fringed white felt hats and robes with high collars and waists. The cuffs, hem and sides of the robe are inlaid with colorful lace, wearing high-waisted leather boots or lace cloth shoes. According to season and region, it is divided into vest, clip, cotton, felt, cloth and leather. According to economic conditions, they are made of silk, satin, cloth, brown and leather.
"The collar is high and the hat has tassels" is a major feature of Yugur costumes. Life and cultural traditions have formed the aesthetic standards of clothing, and the styles, colors, embroidery patterns and patterns of clothing are all formed according to their own national habits and passed down from generation to generation. There is a folk song called "the head of water is a fountain, and the head of clothes is a collar". "A hat without tassels is not beautiful, and clothes without collars cannot be worn".
Yugur costumes like to use contrasting colors such as red, blue, black and white, which gives people a deep impression. For example, although the weaving pattern on the head is extremely simple, it is only composed of square and circular geometric figures, but because it is based on red and is composed of blue, white, yellow and black, it is very eye-catching and will not make people feel monotonous; In particular, the silver medal is decorated on the red head, which is more effective and has a strong three-dimensional effect. Another example is the white felt hat inlaid with red and black edge decorative patterns. Because of the sharp color contrast, the edge decorative patterns are very clear, which makes people feel exquisite and light. This technique of forming striking and vivid patterns through contrasting colors is very appropriate on the green prairie, which is consistent with the rugged and bold character of Yugur people.
Of course, with the development of society, the structure and function of Yugur costumes are also changing. At present, Yugur people rarely wear national costumes at ordinary times, only on festivals or festive occasions. Some people wear them, while others are not used to wearing them. National costumes have become an ornament of Yugur culture. However, in recent years, there have been two new phenomena in Yugur costumes: one is to turn out Yugur costumes that have been under the box for many years and set up a national costume model team. The second is to reduce the red tassels of Yugur women in proportion and make them into tourist souvenirs for sale. Because Yugur hats have rich cultural connotations and distinctive national characteristics, this kind of tourist souvenir is quite popular with everyone.
Characteristics of Yugur costumes
Yugur costumes not only retain some characteristics of ancient ancestors, but also absorb some characteristics of other nationalities, forming a unique Yugur costume now.
Based on animal husbandry
The Yugur people have been focusing on animal husbandry for generations, forming a costume culture with ethnic characteristics of animal husbandry. In the early days, he lived on the vast Gobi desert, lived in tents, and wore white stubble sheepskin jackets or red turtlenecks and boots. Its clothing material is taken from animal husbandry itself, and its clothing style is simple, cold-resistant and sand-proof.
There are formal clothes and casual clothes.
With the development of society, the economic structure of Yugur society has undergone great changes. Besides animal husbandry, agriculture, forestry and other industries have also developed. Yugur people in pastoral areas still wear robes and leather boots, while those in agricultural areas and towns mainly wear uniforms, and only wear traditional costumes on festivals and festive days. Its clothing can be divided into formal clothes and casual clothes.
The length of clothes corresponds to the length of the body.
Yugur costumes have their own national characteristics. Both men and women wear high-necked, wide-chested and right-handed robes, which are equivalent to their own length, and wear trousers.
Braid
In the past, Yugur men had the custom of wearing long braids on their heads. Now they have short hair.
A bloody hat
The headdress of Yugur women is very distinctive. They wear trumpet-shaped red tassels or hats woven with Achnatherum splendens. It is said that this hat is to commemorate a murdered heroine in the history of our nation, and the red tassel represents the blood on her head when she died.
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