Pattern of official uniforms in Qing dynasty

Clothing of officials in Qing dynasty

emperor

The costumes of the emperors in Qing Dynasty included imperial clothes, auspicious clothes, regular clothes and travelling clothes. The emperor's robes are mainly bright yellow, such as bright yellow, golden yellow or apricot yellow, with nine dragons embroidered on them, but there are only eight dragons in the real thing. In fact, they are all embroidered in skirts, which are generally not easy to see. In this way, each dragon robe is actually Kowloon. From the front or back, you can see five dragons, which coincides with the figures in the Ninth Five-Year Plan. The hem of the dragon robe is embroidered with many curved lines called water feet. Below the foot of the water, the waves are rolling, and above the waves, it is a treasure house of rocks, commonly known as "all rivers run into the sea", which not only means endless auspiciousness, but also means "unification of mountains and rivers" and "eternal peace"

prince

In the Qing dynasty, the royal robes of princes were generally dragon robes, while Baylor was embroidered robes. There is no clear answer about the difference between python and dragon. Generally, according to "Discrimination of Wildfire", "A python is dressed like a dragon's robe, which is similar to the imperial (dragon's) robe of the Supreme (that is, the emperor), but with one claw reduced" and "Where a dragon satin group is set up with five claws, officials and people are not allowed to wear it ... If a dragon satin with five claws is granted, one claw should be removed to wear it, and it is concluded that five claws are dragons and four claws are pythons. The color of a prince's royal robe can only be khaki or dark yellow, not bright yellow. The dragon must be panlong or descending dragon, not ascending dragon or positive dragon. The hem of the prince's royal robe is also embroidered with "Sea and River".

The pattern of the prince's auxiliary clothing: five-claw dragon before and after, five-claw dragon with two shoulders.

The pattern of Wang Fufu's clothing: a dragon with two shoulders and five claws in front and back.

Baylor's pattern of mending clothes: there are four claws of python in front and back.

Beizi has a patchwork pattern: four-claw pythons before and after.

Zhen Guogong and Fu Guogong's pattern of supplementary clothing: one side of the front and the other side of the four-claw python.

Duke, Marquis and Earl patterns: Nine pythons are embroidered on the front and back.

formal

There is a square pattern on the official clothes of Qing dynasty, which is called tonic. Tonics are divided into two kinds: Wen and Wu.

Civil servants: first-class cranes, second-class golden pheasants, third-class peacocks, fourth-class clouds, fifth-class egrets, sixth-class egrets, seventh-class mangroves, eighth-class quails and ninth-class sparrows.

Military attache: unicorn, lion, leopard, tiger, bear, tiger, rhinoceros and seahorse.

Besides, censors and exhorters are arrogant.

In addition to birds and animals, the patchwork is embroidered with patterns of seawater and rocks, which means that "the seawater is on the cliff and the mountains and rivers are forever solid". Supplementary clothes are Nanjing Suzhou and Hangzhou, that is, Jiangnan three systems, with exquisite materials and excellent workmanship. There are strict regulations on the size and style, and officials are not allowed to change the official uniforms corresponding to their grades without permission.

Mang cannon in Qing dynasty

There are many kinds of headscarves, and the dragon robe worn by the emperor is only one of them The emperor's robes are five-claw dragons, and the headscarves of generals, princes or heroes are generally four-claw dragons. In the Qing Dynasty, there were strict restrictions on the number of dragons on mang robes, including nine emperors and eight grades.

In the Qing dynasty, civil servants only used a bird to supplement their children, and military officers used a beast, which basically followed the Ming system.

First, the establishment of civil servants.

Civil servants are elegant and quiet, and official uniforms are supplemented by birds, showing their virtue.

Yipin: Crane. Crane is beautiful and detached, elegant and holy, and has a long life span, which can reach 60 or 70 years old. In ancient times, it became a symbol of sage like style and longevity. In the lucky bird series, it is second only to Phoenix. The phoenix becomes the symbol of the queen, while the crane is the official residence. "Xianghe Jing" says: "Crane, life cannot be measured." The Book of Songs, Xiaoya, says, "He Ming is nine high, and his voice is louder than the sky." The official made up a son with the design of a crane as a message to the son of heaven.

The second product: golden pheasant. Golden rooster, also known as "Golden Rooster", "Jade Chicken" and "Blue Chicken", is a symbol of good luck. Golden pheasant has the demeanor of a king. Its brightly colored feathers are said to ward off evil spirits. The ancients loved to use it as the decoration of clothes, such as the crown inserted behind the clothes of military commanders and embroidered on the emperor's dress. It is also called "Hua Chong", which means dignity and nobility.

Triple product: peacock. Peacock has not only beautiful feathers, but also personality. The Gain Sutra says that peacocks have "nine virtues", and its text is as follows: "One is correct in appearance, the other is correct in sound, the three steps are in sequence, four are aware of their events from time to time, five are aware of their diet, six are always satisfied, seven are not scattered, eight are correct, and nine are aware of their repeated events." In the eyes of the ancients, peacock is a "literary bird" with great virtue and civilized quality, and it is a symbol of auspiciousness, civilization and wealth.

Four products: clouds and smoke. Interpretation of Shuowen: "Wild geese, wild birds." Flying geese, flying geese, parallel or ahead. The word "wild goose" is the line that geese line up when flying. When geese fly, they often form a "one" or "human" shape, so the clouds are cloudy. Wild geese also have auspicious meanings. The law of flying geese extends to the order of etiquette. For example, "Yili Soul-eating Ceremony" stipulates: "Nacai Naji, please use goose." "the ceremony of the scholars" stipulates: "the doctor will know the goose." Also refers to the arrangement of officials. Therefore, the symbolic significance of Goose as an official supplement lies in: flying in an orderly way, going to Qiu Lai in spring, and assisting the emperor in four seasons.

Five products: silver pheasant. The body is like a pheasant, with white feathers, thin black stripes, reddish cheeks, silky blue hair on the neck and long tail feathers. Silver pheasant is native to the south and has been regarded as a mascot since ancient times. The silver pheasant spreads its wings, symbolizing abandoning dust and pollution, welcoming the new and welcoming the blessing. Drinking water symbolizes that life is as sweet as spring water. In addition, it can drive away disasters and pray for a bumper harvest. In short, it is a symbol of the people's pursuit of a better life. Silver pheasant is also a loyal "righteous bird". Legend has it that Zhao Min, the young emperor of the Song Dynasty, got a silver pheasant when he was on the cliff, and he personally fed it on the boat. After the little emperor died in the sea, the silver pheasant screamed and jumped in the cage and finally fell into the sea with the cage. Later, people called silver pheasant a "righteous bird". Therefore, the image of the silver pheasant, as a supplement to the five officials, is regarded as a way to stop at elegance, and it is not anxious or impetuous to the officials, and it is good luck and loyalty.

Six products: Egret. Egret is also called Bai Niao, and Lu Ji's poem "Sparse" says: "Egret waterfowl is also good and white, so it is called Bai Niao." Egrets are auspicious birds. "Records of the Wei Family": "The official is the official who takes care of him", and he looked at it from a distance. In addition, because of the orderly flight of herons, the number of officials is compared. For example, Bird Classic: Preface of Liao's Nest and Hongyan Heron. Yuan Qu Xuan: "Jade bamboo shoots are combined with herons in small classes, and the red sandalwood spring hall is opposite to the dragon face."

Seven products: Yuanyang. In ancient times, it was called "bird". It is said that mandarin ducks are in pairs, singing in harmony with each other, left male and right female, both flying, and sleeping with male and female wings covering their necks. If you accidentally lose it, it will never be worthy. The Book of Songs Xiaoya says: "Yuanyang flies endlessly. A gentleman should live a long life, which embodies the beautiful relationship between husband and wife in the ancient "five ethics" and is an auspicious bird. As a supplement to officials, it is to shrug their feathers to symbolize firmness and loyalty; If there is a law to sleep, it means that you are conscientious.

Baping: Quail. In ancient times, "quail" and "quail" were originally two kinds of birds. Compendium of Materia Medica records: "Quails are similar to quails, and those without spots are quails." After the evolution of language, they are called one thing. Quail's "safety" is the homonym of "peace", so it has the symbolic meaning of "everything is safe" and "living and working in peace". Quails are used to indicate the rank of officials. In addition to the above meanings, according to Shan Hai Jing, "its birds and feathers are the best clothes for the emperor", which means that officials represent the image of the emperor and reflect the rules and dignity of the emperor.

Servicing is an extension of the twelve chapters of the imperial robe, forming a hierarchical system. The auxiliary service that truly represents the official position was formed in the Ming Dynasty. According to the Records of Imperial Mansions in the History of Ming Dynasty, in the 24th year of Hongwu (139 1), it was stipulated that the official clothes of officials were big robes with collars, square patches on the chest and back, and different grades of animals were used to distinguish official products. In addition, there are two kinds of gifts that the emperor gave to specific people as gifts, namely bullfighting and flying fish.

Do: practice finches. Also known as practicing magpie and ribbon bird. Ribbon is an ornament worn by ancient emperors and officials, and it is a long strip woven with colorful silk brocade. The color and length of the ribbon vary according to the rank of the official. The emperor and the king used four colors, which were two feet long. The prime minister is green and the general is purple. Ancient emperors, governors and literati all wore jade, and the silk tied with jade was called "group belt". Therefore, all kinds of ribbons become symbols of power and wealth. Sparrows have similar tail feathers, so they have the names of birds with ribbons. Therefore, the ribbon bird has the above symbolic significance. In addition, "Rhyme Society" said: "It is called sexual happiness", which means that a ribbon bird can give good news and can be used as an official supplement.

Imperial history: embarrassment. In addition to civil servants, Shi Yu's official position is also supplemented, and his image is arrogant. Avenger is a kind of god beast in ancient legends. "Different Stories" said: "Anger is a sheep. Crime of knowing others by sex. Hao Tao ruled the prison, and those suspected of committing crimes let the sheep touch it. " "History of Song Dynasty, Yu Fu Zhi" records that a hat is made into the shape of a horn, which is called a "crown". In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, as a supplementary pattern of imperial official clothes, it showed that the symbolic significance of law enforcement and protection ran through the whole feudal society.

Second, the supplement of military attache

The military attache is brave and dignified, taking wild animals as official uniforms, which complement each other with patterns to show his dignity.

Yipin: Kirin. It is a mythical beast in ancient legends. "Dai Li" said: "The caterpillar is 360, and the forest is the longest." It is one of the Four Spirits of Dragon, Phoenix, Forest and Turtle. The appearance of Kirin is "Holy King Jia Rui". The explanation of Shuowen is: "Qi, benevolent beast also. Elk body oxtail, a corner. Lin, you too. " "Kirin is armed and harmless." "Kick with feet, top with forehead, and touch with horns. Otherwise, it is benevolence. " Therefore, the official rank image with Kirin as the first-class military attache not only symbolizes the kindness and auspiciousness of the emperor, but also symbolizes the image of the emperor "preparing for war without harming others."

Second product: sister-in-law. It is a kind of beast similar to a lion, which was directly interpreted as a lion by Guo Pu in Jin Dynasty. Er Ya Shi Beast says, "You can be a tiger." According to the ninth volume of Yang Shen's Collection Outside the Mountaineering Temple in the Ming Dynasty: "It is said that a dragon gives birth to nine children, but not a dragon, and each has its own interests ... Eight times, like a lion is good at fireworks, so it is a incense burner." It can be seen that the scorpion is a kind of dragon. Since "a tiger can lurk", it should be regarded as brave.

Triple product: leopard print. The explanation of Shuowen: "A leopard is like a tiger." "Shan Hai Jing Nan Shan Jing" describes: "There are many fierce leopards in Nanshan." The Book of Songs Zheng Feng says: "Kong Wu is powerful". The military attache's supplementary order shows that the leopard is under the sister-in-law and above the tiger. It can be seen that the status of the ancient leopard as a beast is higher than that of the tiger and lower than that of the eldest sister-in-law, which is also based on its bravery.

Four products: tiger. Shuowen said that "the king of mountain beasts" is a great metaphor. Fu Ruizhi, a book in the Song Dynasty, said, "White tiger, if you are not tyrannical, you will be benevolent and will not do harm." Therefore, the tiger is the king of all animals, with the wisdom of the king and the model of "benevolence, wisdom and faith", so people regard it as an auspicious animal. It's auspicious to be able to keep faith and exorcise evil spirits. The symbol of the ancient emperor's military strength was the "tiger symbol". The gates of emperors and princes should be painted with tigers, so they are called "Humen". Tigers have been worshipped by generals since ancient times because they are brave and good at fighting. The general's camp is called "Tiger Account", and the brave are called "Tiger Ben", "Tiger Fu" and "Tiger Man". The list of martial arts champions in the Qing Dynasty is the "Tiger List".

Five products: bear. Shuowen explains: "Bears and beasts are like jackals, but they live in different places." Xiong Huchou, son's dog. The explanation of "Er Ya": "You are like a bear, Huang Baiwen." It can be seen that there are two kinds of descriptions of bears in ancient times: one is a bear and the other is a bear. According to "Guoyu Yujin", "Yellow can enter the bedroom door." "Huang Neng", or "Yellow Bear", is bigger and braver than a bear. As the image of the rank of military attache, just as the Book of Songs Xiaoya said, "Only bears are arrogant, and people are like children", which takes its masculine meaning.

Six products: watches. "Yangtze River Law" says: "The tiger is quiet and written, moving in virtue, and also coming out with its loyalty." Zhou Mi's "Return to the Heart and Miscellaneous Knowledge" in the Song Dynasty records: "As the saying goes, if a tiger gives birth to three children, there must be a tiger." Biao is the most vicious and can't eat anything. It can be seen that the tiger is different from the benevolent tiger and is a fierce and cruel animal. As a military attache, the rank image means that he is cruel to the enemy.

Seven products and eight products: rhinoceros. Interpretation of Shuowen: Rhinoceros, Nanwai cattle, with a corner in the nose and a corner on the top, like a tapir, from the cow to the tail. The skin of rhinoceros can be used as armor, but only the skin of water rhinoceros can be used, so Guoyu Yuyue is called "the armor of water rhinoceros". The annotation of his book says: "There are mountain rhinoceros and water rhinoceros sent from outside today. The skin of the water rhinoceros has pearl armor, but the mountain rhinoceros does not. " The image of rhinoceros as a military attache means that its skin can be used as armor, its horns can be used as spears, and its weapon is rhinoceros.

Do: hippocampus. The seahorse here is not a sea animal with a head like a horse, a single tail upturned backwards and a body length of more than ten centimeters, but a mythical sea animal with two wings on its back, just like a horse that eats grass on land. Can fly in the sky, but also can cross the stormy waves. The life experience of hippocampus is quite mysterious, and there is no information about its details and symbolic significance. When explaining tonic, it is only a few simple words: "Water beasts, like horses, can go both ways, which means that both land and water can attack and kill." Although its words are short, its meaning is clear. It turns out that there was a high demand for the lowest-level officers in ancient times, who could command both infantry and naval water warfare. With such brave officers, the combat effectiveness of the army will certainly be extremely strong, and with such an army, the country will certainly be stable. The emperor can rest easy.

The twelve chapters of the emperor's robes include: sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, China insects, Zong Yi, seaweed, fire, pink rice, flounder and salamander. Each chapter of the twelve chapters has a moral. The sun, the moon and the stars shine on behalf of the three lights, symbolizing the majesty of the emperor and shining everywhere; Mountain represents a steady character, symbolizing the emperor's governance of the four sides of water and soil; Dragon is a kind of beast, changeable, symbolizing that emperors are good at handling state affairs and educating people according to the situation; Hua chong, usually a pheasant, symbolizes that the king wants to "be virtuous and carry things"; Zong Yi, an ancient sacrifice, is usually a pair of embroidered tiger patterns and bo patterns, symbolizing the emperor's loyalty and filial piety; Seaweed symbolizes the emperor's character, pure and flawless; Fire symbolizes the emperor's aboveboard handling of government affairs, and flame also has the significance of guiding soldiers to life; Pink rice, that is, white rice, symbolizes that the emperor supports the people, protects the country and attaches importance to agriculture and mulberry; The axe-shaped symbol symbolizes the emperor's ability and courage; Nuo, as two opposite words, represents the virtue that the emperor can distinguish right from wrong and correct mistakes when he knows them.