Peking Opera Costume Development

[Coat]: Coat is one of the lines of internal division of labor in Peking Opera costumes, and it exists to serve the actors in creating their roles. From the technical functions of the so-called management and maintenance of the costume, in the performance of the actors responsible for the costume of the dress, special characters of the Zale, coat in the management of the operation of the strong skills as well as the name of the dress to identify and shape the different characters dressed in type, for this branch of the costume on the performance of the performance played a role in ensuring the integrity of the art, to achieve the desired effect, play the wisdom and talent of the set of capital, coat, the line has its own technical processing of the coat of the line of work. The line has its own scope and characteristics in the treatment of skills.

(1) Scope and Role: The names of garments in the category of coats are: python, modified python, flag python, official coat, modified official coat, bachelor's official coat, magistrate's coat, open cloak, crane cloak, cape, baguazhang coat, vestment, monk's coat, pleat, palace dress, ancient dress, skirt, pants, jacket, and other costume accessories.

The coat class in a variety of clothing name in the use of its certain range, such as: the performance of the court emperor and generals and court officials and other identity of the characters usually wear python, living in the local officials wear official clothes, but python and official clothes are part of the court dress and dress. For emperors, there are Liu Xiu in "Up to Tiantai" and Tang Taizong in "Jinshui Bridge". As princes, there are Zhao Defang in "Regulus", Lian Po as a general, Lin Xiangru as a prime minister, and other court officials, who can be ministers of the court, must wear python when they meet the emperor. Another in the historical period by the court called "grass bandits" and dare to fight with the court, they dare to risk universal condemnation, but also dare to wear python clothes or claim to be the emperor or occupy the mountain as the king. They also dared to wear python clothes or call themselves emperors or kings of the mountains, such as Chao Gai and Song Jiang.

The local officials, such as governors and magistrates, can wear official clothes, and there is a line on the stage that reads "seven officials in front of the Xiangfu Gate", which also indicates that those who are equivalent to this kind of status wear official clothes, such as the magistrate in Seven Sesame Officials, and Pan Bizheng and Liu Bingyi in Yutangchun.

The common costumes used to show emperors, officials and gentlemen in their leisure time are: cape, open cloak and pleats. For example, Liu Xiu in "On Tiantai" and Zhao Kuangyin in "Chopping the Yellow Robe" wear cape. Jin Favored in Bibo Tan, Donggao Gong in Wenzhaoguan, and Ding Wenwai in Fishing and Killing Family also wear cape. Another example is the King of Tang in "Locking the Five Dragons", and Lian Po and Lin Xiangru in "The Generals and the Generals" all wear capes.

The main costumes for the court officials, queens and concubines who portrayed women are: female python, female official clothes and palace clothes. For example, Queen Li in "Playing Dragon Robe", She Taijun in "Playing Mengliang", and Li Yanfei in "Dabao Guo" wear python; Liu Yingchun in "Fan Jiang Guan" wears official clothes; and Yang Guifei in "The Drunkenness of the Concubine", and Niangniang in "Going up to the Heavenly Plateau" wears palace clothes.

The main costumes for portraying ladies, misses, maids and poor women in the family are: female cape, female pleat, skirt, pants, jacket and so on. Female cape is the main costume of madam and miss, such as: Mrs. Jin and Miss Jin Mudan in "Bibo Tan", Miss Xiangfu in "Spring Grass Breaking into the Hall", Miss in "Selling Water". There are two types of female pleats in the Dan line, one is worn by the old Dan line, and the other is worn by the Qingyi line. The female pleats worn in the Qingyi line are divided into two types: flower and plain. The female flower pleats are mostly worn by young ladies, mainly as a kind of shirt when wearing cape. Vegetarian pleats, also known as green or green pleats, are worn by poor middle-aged women, such as: Qin Xianglian in Qin Xianglian, Wang Baochuan in Wujiapo, and Liu Yingchun in Fenhewan. Old Dan female pleats are also worn by poor elderly women, such as Kang's in Fishing for Golden Turtles, Li's in Encountering the Queen, and He's in Pavilion of Bright Winds. Skirts, pants and jackets are divided into two categories: flower and plain, while they can be made into skirt and jacket or pants and jacket when worn. Most of the wearers of skirt and pants are the ladies of rich and noble families, such as the first and second misses in Three Unwillingnesses, and the little aunt in Southeast Peacock Flight. The pants and coats can portray two aspects of characters, one of which shows young girls from poor families, such as Sun Yujiao in "Pick Up Jade Bracelet", and Nianjin Yunu in "Bean Juice Record", and the other is to show the status of the maid wearing it, such as the maid who follows Wang Baoshu in "Three Strikes of the Palm", and the one who follows Jin Yunu in "Strike Thinly Loves a Man".

Another novel style of dress for the plastic women, the ancient dress, which breaks through the traditional Peking Opera costumes of the wardrobe box system as well as the performance of the program, the ancient dress is the Peking Opera master Mr. Mei Lanfang in the planning of rehearsals for the Heavenly Maiden Scattering Flowers, Mr. Mei borrowed from the ancient paintings of the gods and goddesses in the dress, a change from the traditional costumes of wide and straight. The wide and flat traditional costume styling formed the Mei's ancient costume series, which has become the main costume for women in the new historical dramas to this day.

In addition to the main name and use of the above, there are many other accessories and decorations in the attire for shaping all kinds of characters, which play a role in distinguishing the image of characters wearing the same clothes with different identities and in different situations, such as: cloaks, rice sheets, four happy belts, tapestries, scarves, etc., which can be matched with each other to change the character's image. In the coat line in order to shape a more typical and representative of the characters in people's minds, in the clothes box system another special clothes, such as "Farewell My Concubine" in Yu Ji, "Four Lang Visiting Mother" in the Empress Dowager Xiao, Princess Germany, these special clothes are rarely worn by other characters.

(2) the characteristics of the coat line: according to the scope of the coat line and the role of the relevant issues involved, it can clearly be seen that she shaped the characters of most of the civil servants, lords and wives, young masters and young ladies, maids and servants and other categories of the characters, and in addition from the point of view of the style of clothing, there is a more prominent feature, that is, the python, cape, pleats, open cloak, court dress, gossip clothing, official clothing and other clothing in the cuffs have water sleeves, which is the difference between the second and the second, the water sleeves, the water sleeves, the water sleeves, the water sleeves, the water sleeves, the water sleeves, the water sleeves, the water sleeves. Water sleeves, which is precisely the difference between the distinction between the second and third clothes.

[Two coats]: according to the range of work divided by the coat line, the range of two coats is also formed naturally, between them in the technical treatment of the **** the same place, but in other ways there are great differences. Its name range, role and characteristics are as follows.

(1) the scope and role of the two clothing clothing names are: leaning, modified leaning, arrow coat (which contains dragon arrow coat, flower arrow coat, plain satin arrow coat, cloth arrow coat), vest (which contains dragon vest, yellow plain satin vest, shovel vest), hold clothing (including flower, plain) Qua clothes (including flower, plain, velvet, cloth), pawns cans, dragon suit, big armor, green robe, tea clothes, big sleeves and other accessories.

Two kinds of clothing in the clothing category, in the use of the scope, such as: leaning, is a marshal, generals in the expedition before the generals or the battle of the armor, in the Peking Opera stage, these characters need to be fully clothed - Za leaning, such as "picking the cart" in Yue Fei and high favor, Zhang Kui, etc., "Chang Ban Po" in Zhao Yun and Cao eight generals, and so on. According to the needs of the plot development, a character in a certain fold or the whole play in a scene, may not tie leaning, this does not tie leaning plot can be expressed in a character in the environment has changed, such as the defeat of the helmet armor, the performance of the state of fleeing in distress in the "Yandang Mountain" in the He Tianlong, "touch the monument" in the Yang Jiyi, the battle by the fire or other inflammable material burned armor, such as "Bamboo Grove Chronicle" in the Yu Hong, "Muko Zhai" in the Jiao Zan. Jiao Zhan and Meng Liang in Mu Ke Zhai, Ren Tang Hui in Three Forks in disguise to change his identity as a general, and Lian Po in General Xiang He in living in an inner room or relaxing. Each character's situation is different and its attire will change accordingly.

Improved leaning, as the name suggests, is improved, this clothing style on the stage of Beijing opera, one does not lose the style of the generals, and the other reduces the burden of the actors to enhance the performance of the technical difficulties, improved leaning is the "Hai" a major initiative, in the Beijing Opera stage to become a male and female generals of the light armor, but also to become the main costume of the generals of the new historical dramas, such as the "burning Pei Yuanqing" in the Pei Yuanqing, "" Huanjiazhuang " in the Huanjiazhuang "," Huanjiazhuang "," Huanjiazhuang "," Huanjiazhuang "," and so on. Hu Sanniang in "Hujiazhuang" and so on.

Arrow Clothes: In the category of two clothes, the arrow clothes have a higher usage rate, and it portrays an extremely wide range of characters, from emperors and kings, down to the poor people, and the main reason why it expresses a wide range of characters is that it utilizes a variety of accessories, matching with each other, and changes the image of different types of characters, such as: when the emperor generally rides and walks on horseback, he has to wear the dragon arrow clothes, the waist with a big belt, and match it with the yellow dragon or the black dragon waistcoat, and the shoulder with the three shoulders, such as: Liu Bei in "Chang Ban Po" and "Return to Jingzhou", and Xue Pinggui in "Wujiapo". Heroes and heroines, green men usually wear flowery arrows clothes with tapestries and big belts, such as Pu Tian雕 and Wu Tian Qiu in "Evil Tiger Village", and Yang Xiong and Shi Xiu in "Shi Qian Stealing Chickens" wear black veiled arrows clothes with big belts. The banner and the middle army can wear flower arrow clothes, tie a big belt, and cover a flower vest, such as the banner in "Night Trial of Pan Hong". The lieutenants in <> and <> wore plain satin archery vests with yellow lab coats and thatched shoulders; the executioners and axemen wore plain satin archery vests with large belts, yellow lab coats and thatched shoulders; and the yamen, the police officers, the newsmen, the night watchmen, and the coachmen wore blue archery vests with large belts (the newsmen and the night watchmen could cover the pawns' cans, such as Chong Gongdao in <>, and Dongchao and Xue Ba in <>, etc.).

Holding clothes: the main costume for portraying heroes, heroes of the forest, pawns, and characters who walk easily and move flexibly. It is often worn by martial arts actors and actresses on the stage of Peking Opera, such as Yan Qing and Yang Lin in "Three Strikes on Zhujiazhuang", Huang Tianba and Li Wu in "The Village of the Evil Tiger", and Hua Fengchun and Xu Shiyin in "Yan Yang Lou".

Qua Yi: similar to the holding clothes in use, but it portrays characters who appear to be slightly superior in martial arts and actions, such as Shi Qian in Shi Qian Steals a Chicken, Yang Xiangwu in The Three Thieves of the Nine Dragons' Cups, and Jiang Ping in Bronze Net Formation.

Pawn kan: It is a kind of mark on the costumes of soldiers on both sides of the battle, such as the Zhu jiajiazhuang ding and the Hu jiajiazhuang ding in "Three Strikes at Zhu Jiajiazhuang", and the pawn kan is usually only a pawn character, which indicates the identity of the pawns on the stage.

Tea clothes: usually used only to portray the image of children, such as: the shepherd boy in "Little Cowherd", and the winter brother and spring sister in "Qin Xianglian".

Large sleeves: mainly worn by shopkeepers, bartenders, forbidden pawns, and mule drivers, and this kind of costume has become the main attire of clowns, such as the forbidden pawns in "Su San Rise and Fall" and "Wu Sung Strikes the Shop", and the mule drivers in "Thirteen Sisters".

In addition to the above main names and uses, there are many other accessories and decorations, such as: monk undershirts, Taoist undershirts, dart bags, cartridge bags, tapes, big belts, etc., which can be matched with other costumes to change the image of different identities and different situations of the characters. In the two clothes line in order to shape the more typical characters and representative characters, in the clothes box system, there are other special clothes, such as "Mountain of Flowers and Fruits" in the Monkey King used by the monkey leaning on the system clothes, monkey qua clothes, etc., and other mythological plays of the gods and generals clothing, "haunted the Dragon Palace" in the turtle marshal, shrimp will, the fish and other garments, the "Shilang visit the mother," "Hong mother scolded Chou," in the fight of the uncle of the state, the two uncles of the state, the flag of the Hong Chengchou dress, these clothes are seldom worn by other characters. characters wear.

(2) Characteristics of the two-clothes line: According to the scope of the two-clothes industry and the role of the relevant issues involved, it is obvious that most of the characters portrayed in the two-clothes line are marshals, generals, or martial arts heroes, heroes and heroes of the green forests, and other categories of characters, and in addition from the point of view of the style of clothing, there is a relatively obvious feature, that is, all the cuffs of the clothing, the trouser legs are tightly constricted, and at the same time, regardless of any style of clothing, the waist should be worn by any style of clothing. style of clothing, the waist should be tied with a large belt or other belt. The coat and the two coats are clearly differentiated into civil and martial arts, and it can be clearly seen that it is a concrete embodiment of typology through the treatment of the wearing of the respective garments. It is based on the cultural and martial arts classification, but also based on the performance of the line to go to the classification method to shape the characters.

Three clothes: this line, commonly known as the boot box, which includes the name of the items and role, mostly for the character wearing boots and shoes and underwear attire, the name of the items in the line can be divided into two categories, one is a soft piece of class, commonly known as the soft and hard categories.

(1) soft pieces of class: water clothes: for the actor before make-up work clothes, and for the protection of coats, two clothes in the performance of the suit is not damaged (due to the hot weather or the actor sweating too much).

Fat jacket: mainly for shaping different characters have a robust body, its role is similar to shoulder pads, but the fat jacket is based on the performance of the line and the conditions of the actor, usually there is a small fat jacket, applicable to the line of the Sheng (Lao Sheng, Xiao Sheng, Wu Sheng), and another kind of round-shouldered fat jacket, which applies to the Wu Jing and the martial arts actors, followed by folded-shouldered fat jacket, mainly for the bronze hammer (Wen Jing) line to use. Sometimes, according to the needs of the plot, the characters directly wear fat jacket on the stage, such as "Yue Lai store" in the mule driver, yellow silly dog is.

Colored pants: colored pants are roughly divided into three categories, namely, red-colored pants, black-colored pants, mixed-color pants (which contains white, fragrant color, light green, color, and also contains three kinds of vegetarian and embroidery, lace, in the style of the legs and tight legs are divided into two kinds of red, black-colored pants are mostly worn by men, mixed-color in addition to some of the small student line, most of them are worn by women.

Collar protection: Because most of the costumes of the big, two clothes style for the round neck, in order to make the character modeling perfect, in the performance of the neck is not exposed, in order to wear costumes before the actor to take the collar protection on the neck.

Big socks: (cloth socks) There are two styles, one is a high waisted big socks, designed to wear the character of Fuzhi Crawler, soap shoes, and the second is a short waisted big socks, designed for the role of the Dan to wear colorful shoes to use.

(2) hard class: thick-soled: it is a male character in the play commonly worn high-waisted thick-soled boots, the thickness of the bottom is based on the actor's height or the actor's level of performance, the bottom thickness is usually two inches, two inches of five, three inches, three inches and five inches (the city inch).

Chao Fang: it is a high-waisted boots for the clowns, the sole of the boots is one inch thick.

Fuzhi Crawler: footwear commonly used by the older layers of the civilian population, the short top sole is one inch thick.

Deng Yun Cushion: a kind of footwear commonly used by male immortals, with a short sole two inches thick and two inches and five inches thick.

Soap shoes: used by soap clerks and police officers.

Thin sole: commonly used by male martial arts actors.

Colorful shoes: the general use of women.

Colorful thin soles: common to female martial arts actors.

There are also some special boots and shoes and special boots and shoes in the line of three coats, such as tiger boots, fish scale sprinkle, black and white Taoist shoes, children's boots, monk boots, flag boots and so on.

Three coats in the technical processing is not as specific as the coat, two coats, but some items in the use of three coats, generally based on the coat, two coats of the characters wearing, and finally to achieve uniformity and harmony, the use of reasonable.

From the current status of Peking Opera costumes, it has formed a twin with the performance. Peking Opera has been perfected artistically, and the costume has also reached a relatively perfect state. To make Peking Opera one step forward, so that the Peking Opera costumes to adapt to contemporary aesthetic point of view, to create a new way, the difficulty is great. Peking Opera costumes are, after all, for the actors to create roles in the service, but it is imperative to prompt a revolution within the Peking Opera from the guest, I remember the Chinese Opera School rehearsals "Jade Flute Hate", Li Zigui, director of the costume design requirements have been put forward, the costume to boldly envisioned, forcing the performance to create a new performance vocabulary, that is to say, from the music, choreography, directing the multi-faceted to the programmed to seek breakthroughs, so that in the original The traditional basis for further progress.