The origin of Japanese kimono

Kimono is a traditional costume of the Japanese nation, which was formed on the basis of the costume of China in the Tang Dynasty through the evolution of 1000 years. The Japanese vividly expressed their feelings about art with kimonos.

There are many kinds of kimonos, regardless of color, texture and style, which have undergone thousands of years of changes. Not only are there obvious differences between men and women (men's kimonos are single color, black, few styles, thin belts, simple accessories and easy to wear; Women's kimonos have rich colors, wide belts, various types and styles, and many accessories), and according to different occasions and times, people will wear different kimonos to show caution (women's kimonos include wedding kimonos, adult kimonos, evening ceremony kimonos, banquet ceremony kimonos and general dresses). The weaving, dyeing and embroidery of kimono itself, as well as the complicated rules of wearing it (wearing clogs and socks, combing different hairstyles according to the types of kimono) make it look like a work of art. Designers constantly innovate in color and texture, and apply various bold designs to colors, so that modern impressions are skillfully integrated into the history of kimono in a classical form:

According to legend, in the Shinto era in Japan, there was a fairy who ordered food according to evil. He often takes off his coat, shirt and belt and exposes his body when holding exorcism ceremonies (seeking happiness in the early days of disasters by fasting and bathing). According to later research, the legendary Shinto era is equivalent to Japan's primitive social period. At that time, there were thousands of Japanese living sites discovered, and their distribution areas ranged from Hokkaido in the north to Kyushu in the south, almost all over Japan. In primitive society, the Japanese lived in groups, and their main production activities were hunting and gathering (don't always think about the imperial era). Perhaps it was at that time that the Japanese began to use animal fur or leaves to keep out the cold and walked out of the nude age.

In the late rope culture era (Neolithic Age in Japan, equivalent to 800- 500 years ago) and Yayoi culture era (the era when Yayoi pottery was used in Japan, equivalent to 300-300 years ago), two basic clothing styles appeared in Japan. One is a pullover T-shirt, which is similar in shape to today's T-shirts; The other is double-breasted type, with left-breasted placket, collar tip reaching waist, and tied with string at equal intervals. Sleeves are cylindrical sleeves, and the length is above the knee. There is also a coat, a scarf and a beard.

Autumn originally refers to a kind of crotch cloth worn under the body and hidden under the coat. Autumn here refers to the joint of trouser legs similar to shorts. Men have something around their waists called petticoats, which are tied around their coats. Some changes have taken place in the clothes because of the pleats in the knot. Most women wear skirts. Different from men, women's skirts reach the ground, and their shapes are quite similar to those of Korean women today.

Scarves are usually hung on the shoulders as decoration, and the form of hanging is not limited, which is generally determined by personal hobbies. Scarves are often used as long-sleeved belts or as a substitute for wrapping cloth in production and labor. When leaving, people waved scarves to show their reluctance, which is the same as waving handkerchiefs to show goodbye in Meiji era. & ltBR & gt Yushubi is a belt fabric that is bigger and longer than a scarf, and it is put on the head and hung around the waist. Ancient Japanese women were taboo to be seen by men, so they were used to cover their faces.

According to Historical Records, Records of Japan, Atlas of Planting Wheels, Addendum to Ancient Characters and other documents, the clothing in the late rope culture era and the Yayoi culture era in Japan has been made of plant fiber materials such as bamboo cloth, linen cloth, cotton coarse cloth, rattan cloth and cob cloth. The belt is made of Japanese cloth. The appearance of cloth hangs over the aura of myth, such as carving gods to cut cloth and white gods to make people happy. Dyeing was already common at that time. According to Shen Yingji, when Emperor Jingxing was recorded, people already knew that madder was used to dye red and indigo. Dyed green, grass yellow, acorn black, purple root purple. Most dyed fabrics have no lines, and occasionally there are some printed lines, which are usually printed directly with leaves and flowers. The plants used are evening primrose, swallow grass, hazel, mountain, honeysuckle and so on.

Clogs and cloth socks: Clogs, similar to what we commonly call shoe-pulling boards, generally have two teeth on the front and back of the boards, which are unique shoes for wearing kimonos. Clogs have a long history in China. It is said that in the Spring and Autumn Period, Jin Wengong lived in exile abroad for 19 years. After he ascended the throne, he rewarded those who followed him, but forgot to push the meson. Jie Zitui and his mother live in seclusion in Mianshan. Later, Wen Gong invited him several times, but he never came out. Duke Wen forced him to burn the mountain, so he pushed the tree and burned him. Duke Wen is very sorry. He made a clogs with this tree as a souvenir. Usually, he always looks at the clogs on his feet and cries, Sorry, the first step! According to this story, clogs have a history of more than 2,000 years in China. There are also many clogs in China's literature and history books. In Yan Shigu's Notes on Urgent Articles, some people use wood as a tool, but they use two teeth, so they practice? Quot language; In Huang Sang, there is a saying that the two ends of silk are tied in the middle (Gulefu). Jin Shu? There is also a record of wearing clogs in Xuandi Ji: there are many thorns in Guanzhong, and the emperor sent 2000 soldiers to March in soft clogs. In the Song Dynasty, all the elders in the capital wore clogs, and ladies used painted clogs as their dowry when they got married.

There is no reliable data to judge the origin of Japanese clogs and the relationship between Japanese clogs and China clogs. However, in the novel Searching for the Gods in the Jin Dynasty, the ancient clogs in China were described: clogs were made in the past, with round heads for women and square heads for men, and they were made differently from men and women. Clogs in Japan are mostly square, and women often use clogs with round heads. Moreover, there are clogs in Japan since ancient times, which makes people think deeply about the kinship between Chinese and Japanese clogs.

Cloth socks, Japanese writing foot bag. The original cloth socks were sewn together by two pieces of cloth, without toes, and tied to the foot surface. The word "socks" in Chinese characters is quoted intact in "Dabaoling", which stipulates that the prince should wear brocade socks when wearing a formal dress; Five or more people wear royal robes and white socks under one item; You can see without a uniform with white socks. Only for upper-class people. During the Lu Yuan period of the Edo period (1688- 1704), China's wallet with pin buckle was introduced to Japan, and the pin buckle on it inspired Japanese technicians, who applied this pin buckle to cloth socks, which saved the trouble of the original lacing and made it more convenient to wear. It was not easy to wear socks in ancient Japan. In the Kamakura era, the Japanese government stipulated that the time limit for wearing socks was only from 10/0 of that year to February 2 of the following year. Even in this period, only the elderly over 50 years old and those specially approved by governments at all levels can get this kind of treatment. This is the so-called bag full of royal immunity. It was not until the Edo period that this provision was abolished.

Types of kimonos: There are many kinds of kimonos, not only men and women, unmarried and married, but also casual clothes and formal clothes. Men's kimonos are few in style, single in color, dark in color, thin in belt and convenient to wear. Women's kimonos have various styles, bright colors and wide waist. Different kimono belts have different knots and different hairstyles. Married women wear sleeveless kimonos, while unmarried women wear sleeveless kimonos. In addition, according to the purpose of going out, such as visiting, playing and shopping, the patterns, colors and styles of wearing kimonos are also different.

Sleeve kimono: The dresses worn by women attending relatives' weddings and formal ceremonies are mainly divided into black sleeves and colored sleeves. Black as the background, dyed with five patterns, printed on both ends of the hem of the kimono predecessor, called black sleeves, used by married women; Three or one pattern is printed on fabrics of other colors, and there is a pattern on the hem, which is called color sleeves.

Vibrating sleeve kimono: also known as long-sleeved dress, it is a lady's first dress. According to the sleeve length, it can be divided into big vibrating sleeve, middle vibrating sleeve and small vibrating sleeve, in which the middle vibrating sleeve wears the most. Mainly used for bar mitzvah, graduation ceremony, banquets, parties, visiting friends and other occasions. Because this kimono gives people a sense of fashion, more and more married women wear vibrating sleeves.

Visit kimono: it is a kimono with an overall pattern. It is a picture from hem, left front sleeve, left shoulder to collar. In recent years, as the most popular simple gift, visiting kimono is very popular. It can be worn at opening ceremony, friends' banquets, parties, tea parties and other occasions, and there is no age or marriage restriction.

Small patterned kimono: clothes are dyed with small broken patterns. Because it is very suitable for practicing dressing, it is generally used as a daily fashionable dress and can often be seen on dating and shopping occasions. Small pattern kimono is also used by young women for semi-formal parties.

Mourning clothes: All-black clothes, including belts, worn at funerals.

Wedding dress: a dress worn at the wedding.

Bathrobe: Wear it before bathing.

Men's kimono: A men's kimono is a formal dress with patterned tops and skirts. Except for black, other patterned coats and skirts are just simple gifts, which can be matched with clothes at will.

Plain kimono: This is a monochrome kimono (except black). If it is dyed with patterns, it can be worn as clothes. If there is no pattern, it can be used as a daily fashion dress.

Fu kimono: The patterns of sleeves, front and back and collar are printed and printed from bottom to top by kimono. Lighter and more comfortable than visiting kimonos.

Twelve Orders: It is a full set of dresses worn by ancient women when they entered the palace or celebrated festivals. Divided into Tang suit, single coat, watch, etc. * * * 12th floor.

It is said that after Zhou Wuwang's death, there were 12 junior ministers, each wearing the crown clothes that King Wu often wore. They climbed the roofs of various places and shouted to the north: The son of heaven is back! After screaming three times in a row, he came back and put the crown on King Wu, hoping that King Wu's soul would come back with his clothes. (Think of the scene of a bunch of people waiting for Gong Jin to die in the TV series Romance of the Three Kingdoms, while shouting for the governor to come back with clothes ...) There is also a custom in Japan to call the governor back with clothes: people either sit on the pillows of the deceased and climb onto the roof to face the mountains and seas, or wave the clothes of the deceased to call the deceased back. When washing old clothes for the dead, wash them north and dry them at midnight. After washing, it must be neatly folded. After a period of collection, hit it with a stick a few times before the living can wear it. Therefore, when people wash clothes in daily life, they never dry in the north, and they don't dry outside at night.

In cities, on the first day of the first month, most families don't wash clothes. In ancient customs, washing clothes is not allowed on 1, 15, 28, or even on the other side of Memorial Day every month. Of course, this is a festival that needs a good rest, and it is also a fear that the soul of the sacrifice will float past and attach to the clothes to be dried. When wearing new clothes, some areas (such as Jizhou) put the clothes on the pillars first; Some places (Okinawa) want to sing I am Millennium, and the pillars are also Millennium. Thin clothes make a strong body. Even if you don't put the wooden column in first, you should fold it up and knock it twice before using it. It's all because I'm worried that there is some kind of soul hidden in my clothes. Collect it for a while and hit it with a stick, or put it through a wooden post first. From the subjective desire, I hope it can play a role in eliminating disasters and avoiding evil spirits.

"Wu He Ji" contains: Don't hang the crown, because it is like a dead man's clothes, the legend of Qinyang, Henan Province, wearing a Luo skirt to marry others. Because when the deceased goes to the underworld, it is completely opposite to the Yang world. After death, he has to wear clothes and hats. Japanese custom, when people are buried after death, they should cover their skirts to the left, which means that the clothes of the deceased are the opposite of those of the living. Therefore, people usually wear clothes, the most taboo is to nest the collar inside, or take the future as the front and the inside as the surface.

Similarly, because of animism, people think that the clothes they wear must contain their own souls. Giving your clothes to your closest friends is tantamount to giving your soul to each other, which is sincere. When some people give clothes, they will also put a five-dollar yen in their pockets, and take the homonym of five dollars to express the meaning of imperial fate (predestined relationship with you). At present, there are gifts for clothes and belts. The expression of international practice.

Color taboo of kimono: In the book "China Folk Taboos", the colors of clothing are classified? # 123; For four: expensive color taboo, cheap color taboo, fierce color taboo, bright color taboo. According to the Book of Rites, the clothes of Tianqi vary in color due to different seasons, and are divided into five colors: blue, red, yellow, white and black according to the yin and yang elements of the season. Emperor Taizong Zhenguan set the color of official robes for four years, and purple was listed in front of Zhu: purple clothes were more than three products; Four products and five products; Six products are dark green; Seven products are light green; Eight products are dark blue; Nine products are light green. It can be said that color taboos in Japanese history are similar to these in different degrees.

In 605 AD, in the 11th year of Tuguhun, Shoto Kutaishi promulgated the Twelve Pin Guan, which was used according to the grade. From top to bottom, it is morality (purple), benevolence (green), courtesy (red), faith (yellow), righteousness (white) and wisdom (black). These six colors and crowns are subdivided into two types: size and size, with * * * twelve orders.

In Japanese history, orange, crimson, cyan and purple were designated as the dress colors of the Crown Prince, the Emperor's Supper, the Emperor and the Prince respectively, which restricted the use of others. Especially crimson and purple, are not allowed to be used by people outside the royal family. This rule continued until 1945.

On the murals of Takamatsu's ancient tomb in Japan, there are not only portraits of men and women in Tang costumes, but also portraits of Qinglong, Suzaku, White Tiger and Xuanwu (black turtle) as the patrons of the Quartet. Until today, in some parts of Japan, white and red are generally not used for grand ceremonies when wearing kimonos. Because white represents holiness and purity; Red symbolizes magic.