Classification of Chinese Costumes

Dress of the Shang and Zhou Dynasties:

The dress of the Shang and Zhou Dynasties was mainly a "garment" with the collar open to the right; the lower part of the garment was a "garment", which was a skirt; a wide belt was tied around the waist, and a skirt was added in front of the belly circumference to cover the knees, which was called the "knee-shield".

The clothes of the Spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period were straight long shirts, in which the garment and the clothes were joined together to encompass the body, and this kind of clothes was called "deep clothes". There was also a kind of 'single garment', which was a wide garment without a lining. They also wore a "conical cap" on their heads; the conical cap was a turban used to wrap around the hair to keep it from falling out.

During this period, the short coat, long pants, and boots worn by nomads were also imported into foreign countries, and it was indeed much easier to move around in these handsome garments.

Men's clothing clothing:

Coronation clothing: the most exclusive and noble of the dress, coronation clothing are worn in the festival, is the main ceremonial clothing. It is mainly composed of the crown, clothes, clothes, and the knee and other important parts. The main body of the coronet is the basal garment, which is painted and embroidered with chapter patterns, and in the most solemn ceremonies, the coronet with nine chapter patterns is worn. Underneath the garment, it is lined with a white sheet, i.e., a white shirt, which was usually white in ancient times. The front of the lower body is covered with a knee, which is vermilion for the sons of heaven and yellow-vermilion for the lords. Shoes are double-soled, made of leather and wood, with higher soles, and the son of heaven in the Zhou Dynasty, wore red color during grand ceremonies.

Ben suit: its solemnity is second only to the coronation suit, the form of clothing is similar to the coronation suit, the biggest difference is that it is not added to the chapter. Bent clothes can be divided into several kinds of Jubilee Bent, Wei Bent, Crown Bent, etc., and their main difference lies in the color of the crowns and garments worn.

XuanDuan: the regular clothes of the Son of Heaven, the court dress of the vassals and their ministers.

Deep Clothes: In ancient times, all clothes were not connected to each other, but this kind of clothes was connected to the top and bottom, cut separately but sewn together at the top and bottom, which was called "deep clothes" because of the "deepness of the body".

Women's clothing:

The "Shimoi" (禕衣)：the dress of the queen who sacrificed to her predecessor as an offering from the king.

N?daojie: the dress for the queen to sacrifice the late king and the wife of the marquis to help the king. It was a green garment with twelve lines on the back, and the color of the feathers on the back was also five-colored.

Quezhai: The queen's costume for helping the son of heaven to sacrifice to the small gods and the son's son's son's wife to sacrifice to the temple. It is a red-colored clothes, engraved red fabric Zhai pattern.

Juyi: the dress for the queen to lead the women to sacrifice to the silkworm god, and also for the wives of the feudal lords to help the king to sacrifice to the temple.

Zhan Yi: also known as the unadorned dress, it was the dress of the queen for her audience with the king and for the banquet, and it was also the dress of the wives of the ministers who assisted the king in offering sacrifices to the temple.

Luyi: It was the regular dress of the queen when she stayed in the house of Yan, and it was also the dress of the wife of a scholar who helped her husband to offer sacrifices to the king.

Junyi: the wedding clothes of the daughters of the nobles.

The Qin and Han Dynasties, in China, is an important stage in the color of clothing, that is, the yin and yang and five elements of the idea of infiltration into the idea of clothing, the Qin Dynasty is very short, so in addition to the first emperor of the Qin dynasty to provide for the color of the clothing, the general color of the clothing should be inherited from the warring states era.

Men's clothing clothing Qin Shihuang stipulated that the dress is the upper garment under the same black ceremonial clothing and the provisions of the color of black for the top, and the provisions of the officials above the third grade of green robes general common people with white robes.

Women's clothing clothing Qin Shi Huang liked the concubines in the palace to wear beautiful and gorgeous for the top. Since he reduced the rituals, the color of the concubines' clothes was mainly to cater to his personal preferences. But basically, he was still governed by the idea of the five elements.

The clothes of the Han Dynasty, the main robe, for leisure at home [straight single garment], 襦 [short coat], skirt. Because the weaving and embroidery industry was very developed in the Han Dynasty, rich people could wear beautiful clothes made of damask and silk. The average person wore a short coat and long pants, and the poorer people wore short browns [short clothes made of coarse cloth]. Women in the Han Dynasty wore two-piece dresses and robes, and there were more styles of skirts, the most famous being the "Liuxian dress.

Men's dress:

Gowns: The ritual dress of the Han Dynasty inherited the Qin Dynasty's abolition of the "Six Coronets" and the practice of using one type of coronet as the dress for sacrificing to the Heavenly and Earthly Halls of Light.

Coronation dress: the most honored ceremonial dress, worn by the Son of Heaven and the three dukes, the ministers, and the ministers when they sacrificed to Heaven and Earth.

Long crown dress: for the husband and deacons, used in sacrifices to the temple and various small sacrifices, such as the five mountains, the four blasphemies, mountains and rivers, the gods and goddesses of earth and grain, etc. Ceremony wearer.

Commissioned appearance of the crown: the equivalent of the Zhou Dynasty, the crown of the suit. It was worn by the ministers and officials when they performed the rite of the great shooting in Piyong.

Leather Bent Crown Suit: This kind of crown suit is for the big shooting ceremony, the deacon wears, the clothes for the Velvet hemp clothes, soap leader, plain clothes.

Court dress: Since the Qin Dynasty, robes were used as court dress, and in the Han Dynasty, robes were also used as court dress from the emperor to the lowly officials, and they were the main uniforms. It is also the robe of deep clothes system, but because of the different status of people wearing different crowns and have different names. In the Han Dynasty, the color of the court dress was the color of the five seasons, i.e., green in spring, Zhu in summer, yellow in summer, white in autumn, and black in winter. The court dresses were all lined with the center garment of the leader of the tell-tale edge.

Women's clothing clothing:

Temple clothing: equivalent to the Zhou Dynasty 禕 clothing, is a woman's dress, the status of the most honorable one. Empress Dowager, Empress Dowager of the temple service, the Empress of the temple service, the color of the service is under the soap.

Silkworm clothing: equivalent to the Zhou dynasty about bow clothing. Every year in March, the Empress Shuai led by the Ministers and Marquises of the pro-silkworm ceremony to wear.

Court dress: from the two thousand stone ladies and above to the empress, all the silk worm clothes as court dress.

Wei-Jin-North-South Dynasties is a period of great change in the history of China's ancient clothing, this time because a large number of hu people moved to live in the original, hu clothing became the fashionable clothing. Tight-fitting, round neckline and split are the characteristics of hu clothes.

Men's clothing:

Gowns: in addition to the Northern Zhou, the largest dress ceremonial clothing, there is still only one, and the Han Dynasty is more or less the same, but the main color of the garment is slightly different.

Ping coronation dress: all levels of the form, the color of the service is more or less the same, but the only clothing on the chapter pattern, the son of heaven with twelve chapters, the three dukes and lords of the mountain dragon and other nine chapters, the nine ministers below the use of Chinese insects, such as seven chapters, the son of heaven with the embroidery of the text, the ministers of the text with the weaving.

Northern Zhou Coronation Clothing: The Hanization policy of Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty was successful, and he vigorously pursued the ancient Chinese system of the Zhou Rites, therefore, the clothing system of the Northern Zhou Dynasty was mostly based on the Zhou Rites.

Commissioning the appearance of the crown dress: for the Secretary of State to perform the ritual of the Secretary of the shooting ceremony dress. Clothes black and plain, the center of the clothes to the soap edge as the leader.

Court dress: the same as in the Han Dynasty, the Son of Heaven and the hundred officials of the court dress to wear the crown to distinguish, there are also five-color court dress, but the Han Dynasty, the usual usual dynasty to the soap court dress, Jiang dress, and the Wei, Jin and North and South Dynasties are mainly in Jiang court dress.

Tongtian crown clothing: Wei Jin and North and South Dynasties, the dynasties are this service for the son of heaven's court dress, but also the second-class dress. He wore a reddish-red robe, a soap-rimmed centerpiece, and black shoes.

The Crown of Faraway Traveling: it was worn by the Crown Prince and all the kings, with Zhu Yi, Jiang Yao robe, soap-rimmed white yarn middle garment, and white curved collar.

The crown of the officials: the main reddish-red yarn. But the Chen system is more complex, the high position of the hundred officials to Zhuyi for the court dress, the low position, the soap clothes for the court dress, soap-white yarn edge in the single.

Pin-color clothes: Tiantai near the guards and the officials of the guards, are wearing five-color clothes, to brocade feed embroidery, the name is Pin-color clothes.

The regular clothes: mainly pants and pleated clothes, very versatile, can be used as court dress, military uniforms, civilian clothes, from the nobles to the common people use it.

Women's Clothing:

Queen's temple dress: the most grand dress in the women's official dress, is also the queen's wedding dress.

In Temple Zuo Sacrifice Clothing: for consorts, concubines, destined women's sacrificial clothing. In Jin and the Southern Song and Chen are soap on soap down.

Silkworm clothing: the queen of the ceremony of silkworm ceremony dress, are green on the misty bottom.

Supporting silkworm dress: for the consort, concubine, the wife to help the queen to perform the ceremony of pro silkworm dress, in Jin and the Southern Chen for the misty on the misty down. In the Southern Song Dynasty for the green on the green.

Court dress: the above three dynasties are thought to be women's court dress.

Bi-Zhou dress: the female official dress was the same as the male official dress, very complex, with many colors, very different from the previous dynasties.

During the Sui and Tang dynasties, the general public wore white, round-necked tunics, and the lower classes wore "coarse browns" made of hemp and wool. Women in the Sui Dynasty wore narrow, fitted, round-necked or cross-necked shirts, and long, high-waisted, floor-length skirts with two fluttering ribbons tied around the waist. In the Tang Dynasty, women's clothing consisted mainly of shirts, skirts, and capes, which were long scarves worn over the shoulders. There were also special short-sleeved half-armed shirts that were worn over long shirts. Women in the early Tang Dynasty also like to wear feedback collar of small-sleeved clothes, striped pants, embroidered shoes and other Western-style clothing, their heads also wear "power away", "curtain hat". The women's clothing of the Sui and Tang dynasties was most popular in the four colors of red, purple, yellow and green.

Men's clothing clothing:

Coronation clothing: sacrificial clothing, the most ceremonial dress. From the son of heaven to the hundred officials are served.

Court dress: the second dress after the coronation dress.

Tongtian Guanfu: the grandest court dress of the Son of Heaven.

The crown of the distant journey: the grandest court dress of the Crown Prince and the Prince.

Suits: also known as court dress.

Gongfu (public dress): the third class of dress after the coronation dress and the court dress.

Bent clothes: the son of heaven was dressed for the court on the first day of the lunar month, and the crown prince was dressed for the first day of the lunar month.

Official dress: the crown prince wore it when he was subjected to the court on the regular court in May and on the winter solstice on the first day of the Yuan Dynasty.

Flat conical cap: the official uniform of the military.

Usa cap suit: for the Son of Heaven and the Crown Prince to see the court, listen to lawsuits and feast with the guests of the clothing, with the Usa as a cap.

Black conical cap dress: worn by scholars who had no public office, when they saw the court and received an imperial decree.

Conventional clothing: the most used type of clothing.

Yellow robe: the Son of Heaven began to wear yellow robes regularly.

Chinese dress: the tradition of using different dress colors to distinguish the rank of officials.

Women's Clothing:

Great Gowns:

'Clothing: The grandest of the great gowns.

??Jai: The most degrading grand dress of the Crown Princess.

Regular dress:

Qingyi: worn by the Empress during her ceremonial audience with the Emperor.

Vermilion Clothes: worn by the Empress when she meets her guests.

Tin Hairpin Ceremonial Clothes Flower Hairpin Ceremonial Clothes: return to the wedding dress.

Song dynasty clothing, its clothing color, clothing more inherited from the Tang dynasty, just with the traditional dissolution do better, more natural, giving the feeling of restoration of Chinese style.

Song dynasty clothing Song dynasty men's clothing largely inherited the style of the Tang dynasty, the general public more than wearing a cross-necked or round-necked robes, do things when the clothes up tucked in the belt, the clothes are black and white two colors.

Then retired officials, scholars wear a kind of called "straight pick up" lapel long shirt, the sleeves are big, cuffs, collar, shirt corner are set with black edges, and then wear a square barrel-shaped hat on the head, called "Dongpo scarf".

The women's clothing of the Song Dynasty was to wear a narrow-sleeved jacket with a long skirt, usually with a long-sleeved pasted piece outside the jacket, much like an undershirt nowadays, and the pasted piece was embroidered with beautiful lace on the neckline and the front.

Men's clothing clothing:

Coronation: the Song Dynasty began to reduce the types of coronation clothing, the big ceremony to wear non-coronation clothing, it often occurs.

Court dress: In the Song Dynasty, a special decoration was added under the Jin, which was called the "square-centered curved collar".

Official uniforms: the Song dynasty took regular clothes as the official uniforms.

Women's dress:

Dress: the color of the dress is the same as that of the Tang Dynasty.

Regular dress: all with large-sleeved tops, long skirts and capes as regular dress.

The clothing system of the Yuan Dynasty was similar to that of the Liao and Jin Dynasties.

The Yuan Dynasty was ruled by the Mongols, so the Yuan costume was also more special. The Mongols mostly made the hair on the forehead into a small lock, like a peach, and the rest was braided into two plaits, then wrapped into two big rings hanging behind the ears, and wore hats on their heads. The clothes of the Yuan Dynasty people were mainly "Qisun Clothes" which were shorter robes, tighter and narrower, with many folds at the waist, and these clothes were very convenient for mounting and dismounting from horses.

Yuan Dynasty noble women, often wearing a high, long, strange-looking hat, which is called "Kwu Kwu Crown". They wore robes that were wide and long, and it was inconvenient for them to walk, and they often needed two maidservants behind them to help them pull the corners of their robes, while common women, in general, wore black robes.

Men's clothing clothing:

Coronation clothing:

The son of heaven gun coronation clothing.

Crown Prince Gun Coronation Costume.

Official dress: worn by the hundred officials when performing rituals.

Ordinary clothes: the main clothing of the upper class in the Yuan Dynasty.

Ming Dynasty noblewomen mostly wear red robes with big sleeves, and general women can only wear peach, purple and green and some light colors. Ordinary women wore short shirts and long skirts with silk belts around their waists, and the skirts were wide and in many styles, like pleated skirts, phoenix-tailed skirts and moonflower skirts.

Men's Clothing Dress:

Coronation Dress: From the Song Dynasty onwards, the emperor almost only wore one kind of coronation dress.

Court dress: there are Tongtian crown dress, leather-bent dress, court dress and so on.

Official dress: the official office dress of all officials. All use it.

Common dress: the restoration of the common dress system of the Tang and Song dynasties.

Women's clothing:

Gowns:

'Clothes: for the queen to be deleted, visit the temple, the court will wear.

Jai Yi: the second dress for the Empress.

The gown: the great dress of the magistrate's wife.

The clothes of the Qing Dynasty robes and coats, earlier the rich and noble families to wear the dress, and later universal, into the general dress of the country, usually worn by the cap is the melon hat, the color is outside the black, inside the red. The cheongsam worn by Manchu women was wide in the early days, but later it became waisted, with a "kangshi" (undershirt) on the outside of the cheongsam. Their shoes are also very special, a kind of flowerpot-style shoes with high soles. As for the Han women's dress, it was more or less the same as in the Ming Dynasty.

Men's dress code:

Dress coat: different official ranks due to different patterns

Gun suit: worn by the emperor.

Dragon coat: for the emperor's son to shine.

The complementary clothing: according to the different patterns and decorations and separate official ranks.

Court dress: the grandest of the great dress.

Ji dress: the dress of the Qing dynasty, second to the court dress is for the ji dress, used for auspicious ceremonies to wear.

Customary dress: the clothing system of the Qing Dynasty, only the customary dress, the provisions are very small.

Women's clothing:

Court dress: the Empress of the court dress is the court dress, the court robe, the court coat, three pieces of a whole.

Ji dress: consists of the outer coat and robe.