Why did The New York Times publish the crisis of Sichuan cuisine: Where did the traditional taste go? "articles?

20/kloc-in June, 2006, The New York Times published an article entitled "the crisis of Sichuan cuisine: where has the traditional taste gone?" "the article. This article interviewed some employees in the Sichuan cuisine industry in Chengdu and criticized the phenomenon that Sichuan cuisine has changed from "one dish, one style, all kinds of dishes" to "salty and spicy". The original text is like this: "The rapid growth has lowered the cooking level of many restaurants, especially in the past few decades. The taste and mouthfeel of fish-flavored eggplant and other dishes have been submerged by a large number of peppers, oils and monosodium glutamate. Often only scary spicy dishes, such as Maoxuewang, are left on the menu, ignoring the diversity and subtlety of Sichuan cuisine. "

The article points out that "Sichuan cuisine is becoming popular all over the world, and it is the most popular dining out option in China. In foreign countries, Sichuan cuisine has also made great gains in cities with fierce competition in the catering industry, such as new york and London. " On the other hand, "just as a once unknown local band was carried away by the sudden star aura, their traditions may betray themselves for the fame and fortune that will not last long."

We all have to admit that Sichuan cuisine should have 24 flavors, but now it is squeezed by the exciting experience of "spicy". It seems that a Sichuan dish is not spicy now, and it can't even be called Sichuan food.

Sichuan cuisine is not a dish cooked with Chili peppers. The essence of Sichuan cuisine is the embodiment of 24 flavors-so taste is the essence of Sichuan cuisine. Inheritance and innovation are indispensable to what techniques are used to express traditional Sichuan flavor and what techniques are used to retain traditional Sichuan flavor.