Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional culture - About the Emperor's Dragon Robe
About the Emperor's Dragon Robe
The Han Dynasty Emperor's coronation, coronation, red slippers (reference to written records and Shandong Jinan Han tomb excavated pottery figurines, Yinan Han tomb excavated portrait stone restoration drawing). This figure is restored and drawn according to the documentary records and pattern information, and most of the patterns on the garments are adopted from the brick paintings, lacquer paintings, silk paintings and portrait bricks of the same period. Coronet, is the ancient imperial courtiers to participate in sacrificial ceremonies worn by the ceremonial crown. It was used as the sacrificial dress worn by the emperor, the dukes and the lords. The top of the crown, there is a rounded rectangular coronet plate, the coronet plate before and after the hanging "tassel".
The tassels, depending on the number and quality of different materials, are an important symbol of the distinction between inferiority and superiority. The Han Dynasty stipulated that the emperor's crown was twelve tassels (i.e., twelve rows), made of jade. The color of the crown, mainly black. On both sides of the crown, each has a hole, used to insert jade maturity, to tie the knot with the bun. And on both sides of the matrices tied with a ribbon, tied under the jaw. In the ribbon on the two ears, but also each hanging a bead jade, called "Yun ear". Not stuffed into the ear, just hanging in the ear, to remind the wearer of the crown should not listen to slander. Later generations of "allow the ear does not hear" phrase, that is, from this. According to the regulations, where the wearer of the crown, all have to wear a coronation dress. Coronet to Xuan upper garment, vermilion-colored lower garment, the upper and lower painted with chapter patterns. In addition, there is also a cover knee, wear a ribbon, red slippers and so on. Composition of a complete set of clothing. This clothing system began in the Zhou Dynasty, through the Han, Tang, Song and Yuan dynasties, has continued to the Qing Dynasty, stretching more than two thousand years.
The dragon robe was the dress worn by the ancient emperor when he participated in celebrations. According to "Suzhou Province" Volume 147 records, in the Ming Dynasty Wanli 29 years (1601 AD) eunuch Sun Long to Suzhou as a tax supervisor, supervise the manufacture of dragon robe. 1957 in Beijing Thirteen Mausoleum Tingling excavated artifacts are made of woof dragon robe. Because the embroidered pattern on the dragon robe is mainly dragon, so it is named.
The dragon robe of the open space for the bright yellow, collar, sleeves are stone green, piece of gold edge. Embroidered with 12 trapped dragons and the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, Chinese insects (a synonym for pheasants), Zongyi (long-tailed monkeys Zun), algae (cushioning jade color plate), fire (light and flame emitted when the object burns), powder (ancient embroidered white or colored powder on the clothes), rice (ancient embroidered patterns on the clothes), 黻(Yinfu). Ancient gowns on the white and green pattern) image, the rest are evenly spaced "Ruyi head", "bat" and symbolize the rich and noble "" word pattern. The dragon robe is embroidered with nine dragons, interspersed with five-colored clouds. There is one dragon on the front and back of the collar, one dragon on the left, right, front and back of the knee and one dragon on the lapel, and one dragon on the end of the sleeve. The lower part of the eight treasures standing water, lapel left and right open to cotton, lined, gauze, fur system, each but its own time. Dragon robe exclusively for the emperor to wear, other officials can not wear, only to get the emperor's pro gift to wear, but in wearing must be "picked to a grasp", to show the difference. In the Ming Dynasty, after the reform of the dragon robe, known as python robe, became the Ming Dynasty officials regular clothes.
The color of the dragon robe is quite a study, and very strict, the ancient use of color is not purely human nature needs, at the same time as a racial or tribal symbols, in the ancient Paleolithic caveman wearing hematite dyeing, to the Xia Dynasty revered black, the Zhou Dynasty revered red, to the Han Dynasty deduction of the Zhou revered red, the Qin revered black, the Han dynasty Qin is revered after the extinction of the yellow, the Han Wendi! Liu Heng wore the dragon robe for the first time using yellow. Subsequent long-term yellow for the most noble, it symbolizes the central, therefore, this trend has been extended down until the Ming and Qing dynasties. Dragon robe on the "" word pattern color by light moon white, magenta and blue, "bat" has vermilion, jujube red, reddish-red, reddish-red, incense color, bronze and so on several kinds of colors." Ruyi head" is composed of blue, moon white, navy blue and two colors of water red, peach red, jujube red and snow gray.
The emperor's costume in the Qing Dynasty was divided into court dress, auspicious dress, regular dress and traveling dress. When wearing the dragon robe, must wear auspicious clothing crown, bundle auspicious clothing belt and hanging beads. Dragon robe in bright yellow, round neck, right lapel, horseshoe sleeves, buckle trip. The workmanship of the dragon robe has embroidery, woof points, of which the woof process is relatively complex, the process is called "even the warp and weft". This woof process has been passed down in China for a long time, the Song Dynasty is used for other decorations, to the Qing Dynasty is used for clothing, because the woof process consumes too long, so more for the dragon robe.
Anciently, the emperor's position was called the Nine and Five. The numbers nine and five usually symbolize nobility. The emperor of the Qing dynasty's dragon robe embroidered with nine gold dragons, the location of the chest and back respectively, there is a positive gold dragon, below the front and back respectively, there are two rows of gold dragons, shoulders on the left and right sides respectively, there is a gold dragon, the right side of the inner placket inside there is also a row of gold dragons. When each dragon robe is viewed individually from the front or the back, all that is seen are five dragons, which coincides with the number nine and five.
The hem of the dragon robe diagonally arranged with many curved lines, called "water feet". Above the water feet, there are many waves rolling water waves, water waves above the standing stone treasure, commonly known as "seawater river cliffs", which, in addition to indicating the continuous auspicious meaning, there is a "unity of the mountains and rivers" and "worlds of peace "The symbolism.
Dragon robe, in addition to the dragon pattern, there are twelve chapters of patterns, including the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, Chinese insects, embroidery, 黻 eight chapters in the clothes; the remaining four algae, fire, Zong Yi, rice flour in the garment, with five-color auspicious clouds, bats and so on. They represent different meanings, "the sun, the moon and the stars to take its illumination; mountain to take its town; dragon to take its change; Chinese insects to take its text, will be painted; Zongyi to take its filial piety; algae to take its clean; fire to take its bright; powder rice to take its support; embroidery if the axe-shaped, to take the break; 黻 for two of their own backs to take their defense. These various meanings of the pattern decorated in the emperor's clothing, a metaphor for the emperor, such as the sun, moon and stars, light on the earth; such as the dragon, should be taught, good at change; such as the mountain, the clouds and rain, the town of heavy four sides; such as the color of the Chinese insects, civilized and virtuous; such as Zongyi, know the depths of the wisdom of the mighty German; such as algae, washed by the water, fresh and clean; such as the fire, the sun, such as the heat of the day; such as the powdered rice, for people to survive for the dependence on the world of life; such as the axe, cutting decisively; as the two selves are opposed to each other, and the ruler and ministers help each other * * * things." In short, these twelve chapters contain the most good and beautiful imperial virtues.
Identify the Qing dynasty dragon robe mainly from the workmanship, fabric and pattern three major aspects. First of all, the workmanship of the dragon robe is quite fine, the line used is not the usual we see the gold line or silk line, especially the woof process is difficult to imitate. Secondly, most of the production of the Qing dynasty court dress clothes from the three weaving in Jiangnan, namely, Jiangning Weaving Bureau, Suzhou Weaving Bureau and Hangzhou Weaving Bureau, a very small part of the weaving and dyeing by the Beijing Weaving and Dyeing Bureau weaving. Jiangning (Nanjing) is good at weaving gold makeup color as well as Japanese satin, silk weaving; Suzhou's woof, embroidery craft is the most exquisite; lake silk quality is the most excellent, such as damask, Luo, spinning, crepe, silk and so on more by Hangzhou weaving. Finally, the pattern on the dragon robe and where the position can not have the slightest error, these patterns are more limited to the emperor's clothing, the other Palace aristocrats can not have this pattern on the dress, so that the pattern is the best way to identify the dragon robe.
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