Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional culture - The hairstyle of ancient men
The hairstyle of ancient men
1. Hair style of Shang Dynasty (Jade Man Unearthed from Muhao Tomb in Anyang Ancient Ruins, Henan Province). Men's hairstyles in Shang Dynasty were mainly braided. According to the image data, there are many styles of men's braiding in this period, some of which have been braided at the top and hung to the back of the head; There are curly left and right braids that hang down to the shoulders; Some people braid their hair and wrap it around their heads, and so on. This picture shows the total hair at the top, braided and hanging to the back of the head.
2. The men's showcase with rectangular collar and narrow sleeves in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty. The dress of Zhou Dynasty generally followed the dress system of Shang Dynasty, but it changed slightly. The style of clothes is slightly looser than that of Shang Dynasty. There are two kinds of sleeves: big sleeves and small sleeve, and the collar is generally rectangular, as shown in the figure. Clothing in this period has not been twisted, usually tied around the waist, and some belts are still hung with jade ornaments. At that time, there were mainly two kinds of belts: one was made of silk fabric, which was called "big belt" or "gentry belt". Another kind of belt is made of leather, which is called "belt". This picture shows a gentleman's belt.
3. In the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the white jade portrait of the aristocrat's crown hat and clothing, wearing a crown on his head, with groups of tassels hanging down from his jaws on both sides, braiding his hair at the back of his head and wrapping it in the crown; Wearing narrow-sleeved robes, belts and shoes. In addition to Hu clothing, there was another clothing style in the Spring and Autumn Period, which was called "Deep Clothing". Deep clothing is a kind of clothing connected from top to bottom, which has great influence on society. Both men and women, civil and military positions, can wear deep clothes. This picture shows an official wearing a crown and wide sleeves (a jade man in the Warring States period, handed down from generation to generation, the original is now in the Palace Museum).
4. Officials wearing long crowns and robes in the Han Dynasty (Mu Yi figurines unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan). The long crown, previously worn by Liu Bang, the ancestor of the Han Dynasty, was made of bamboo skin, so it was called Liu Guan. Later it was designated as a sacrificial costume for officials above the official level, also known as Zhai Guan, which was worn by clothes and wooden figurines unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province. In Qin and Han dynasties, robes were the most expensive men's wear. Robes have always been considered as dresses. Their basic styles are mostly big sleeves, with obvious convergence of cuffs and lace on collars and sleeves. The collar of the robe is mainly bare collar, mostly cut into a heart shape, revealing underwear when wearing it. This kind of robe is a common dress of officials in the Han Dynasty, and can be worn regardless of civil and military positions. This photo shows wearing a long crown, a black crimson leader robe and crimson pantyhose.
5. Coronation map, coronation map and nude map of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty (refer to the written records and restoration drawings of the pottery figurines unearthed from the Han Tomb in Jinan, Shandong Province and the stone reliefs unearthed from the Han Tomb in Yinan). This picture was restored and drawn according to literature records and pattern data. The patterns on clothes are mostly brick paintings, lacquer paintings, silk paintings and portrait bricks of the same period. The crown is a ceremonial crown worn by the courtiers of ancient emperors when attending sacrificial ceremonies. Used as sacrificial clothing for emperors, princes, etc. At the top of the crown, there is a rectangular crown plate behind the front circle, and the "crown" is hung on the front and back of the crown plate.
According to the difference of quantity and material, crown is an important symbol to distinguish between noble and noble. According to the Han dynasty, the emperor's crown is twelve (twelve rows), made of jade. The color of the crown is mainly black. On both sides of the crown, there is a hole for inserting jade pieces to tie them with the bun. Tie ribbons on both sides of the quilt and tie them under the jaw. On the two ears of the ribbon, there is also a pearl jade, named "Yuner". Don't put it in your ear, just tie it to your ear to remind the wearer not to listen to rumors. Later generations "allow the ear not to smell" came from this. According to the regulations, anyone who wears a crown must wear a crown suit. The coronation suit is decorated with a mysterious coat and a scarlet bottom, with chapters on the top and bottom. In addition, there are kneepads, swords, Chiba and so on. Form a complete set of clothes. This dress system began in the Zhou Dynasty, went through the Han, Tang, Song and Yuan Dynasties, and lasted for more than two thousand years until the Qing Dynasty.
6. Women's Clothing in the Han Dynasty Among the artifacts unearthed from the No.1 Han Tomb in Mawangdui, Changsha, Hunan Province, the style of clothing is typical of the western nationalities, but the materials and patterns have the characteristics of the Han nationality, and auspicious Chinese characters are woven, which is the product of the blending of people of all ethnic groups in the Eastern Han Dynasty. The material objects unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb are extremely rich, especially clothes. After more than 2000 years, the texture is still solid and the color is still bright, which reflects the exquisite craftsmanship and superb level of the ancient working people. This picture shows "Xin Embroidery" tea yellow Luo Qi cotton robe (unearthed from No.1 Han Tomb in Mawangdui, Changsha, Hunan Province), with a length of 132 cm and a sleeve length of 228 cm.
7. Deep clothes for women in the Han Dynasty. Deep clothes in Han dynasty were not only worn by men, but also the most common clothing style in women's wear. There are many reflections in the image data. This kind of clothing is tight and narrow, long and easy to drag, and its hem is generally trumpet-shaped and does not show its feet. Sleeves are wide and narrow, and cuffs are mostly wrapped. The collar part is very distinctive, usually a cross collar, and the neckline is very low to expose underwear. Wear a few clothes, and the collar of each layer will be exposed, up to more than three layers, which is called "triple clothes". This picture shows a woman wearing a three-layer coat (painted pottery figurines unearthed in Hong Qing Village, Xi, Shaanxi Province).
8. Deep clothes for women in the Han Dynasty. Deep clothes in Han dynasty were not only worn by men, but also the most common clothing style in women's wear. There are many reflections in the image data. This kind of clothing is tight and narrow, long and easy to drag, and its hem is generally trumpet-shaped and does not show its feet. Sleeves are wide and narrow, and cuffs are mostly wrapped. The collar part is very distinctive, usually a cross collar, and the neckline is very low to expose underwear. In addition, in the Han Dynasty, wide-sleeved and tight-fitting clothes were wrapped in front. After many twists and turns, the clothes were wrapped around the hips and tied with ribbons. There are also exquisite and gorgeous patterns painted on the clothes. This picture shows the wide-sleeved robes of the Han Dynasty (referring to the silk paintings unearthed from the No.1 Han Tomb in Mawangdui, Hunan Province).
9. Women's Clothing in the Sui Dynasty Most of the daily clothes of women in the Sui Dynasty were clothes, jackets, shirts and skirts. Short skirts are the most basic form. One of its characteristics is that the skirt waist is tied higher, generally above the waist, and some even tied under the armpit, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. This picture shows the wearing of short skirts, long skirts and narrow sleeves in the Sui Dynasty.
10. After the Tang Dynasty, the influence of Hufu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's clothes became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide. This picture shows the wearing of wide-sleeved cardigans, long skirts and silk in the middle and late Tang Dynasty. This is a noble costume in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, which is usually worn on important occasions, such as attending the Senate, attending ceremonies, getting married, etc. Wearing this kind of clothes, there are golden flowers in the hair, so it is also called "hairpin gift clothes". This picture shows a cardigan with big sleeves, a long skirt and silk.
1 1. Song Dynasty Ladies' Dress-Long Sleeve Silk Song Dynasty Ladies' Dress is a dress left over from the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, which was still popular in the Northern Song Dynasty and was mostly worn by aristocratic women. Ordinary women can't wear it. This kind of clothing must be accompanied by gorgeous and exquisite jewelry, including hair ornaments, face ornaments, ear ornaments, neck ornaments and chest ornaments. This painting shows a lady wearing a crown, a big sleeve shirt, a long skirt and silk. (Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes Mural)
12. Ming Dynasty costumes In the Ming Dynasty, women wore more skirts than trousers. Among them, silks and satins are cut into stripes with regular sizes, each with a flower-and-bird pattern embroidered, and the other two sides are inlaid with gold thread, which is broken into skirts, that is, "phoenix-tailed skirts". It is more useful to fold the whole satin with fine pleats, which is a "hundred-fold skirt" The picture above shows the phoenix tail skirt (handed down from generation to generation); The picture below shows women's shoes made of cloth (unearthed in kind).
13. Jia Jia Exhibition of Ming Dynasty. Women's wear in Ming Dynasty mainly includes shirts, coats, gowns, back pockets, bibs and skirts. Most of the basic styles of clothes were imitated from the Tang and Song Dynasties, and they were generally right-handed, which restored the customs of the Han nationality. Gaby's name only appeared after the Song and Yuan Dynasties, but the basic style of this kind of clothing already exists. The armor is sleeveless with double-breasted buttons and split left and right. The semi-weapons in Sui and Tang Dynasties had a certain relationship with Gaby. In the Ming Dynasty, Gaby was mainly worn by young women and was popular among ordinary wives, daughters and handmaiden. In the Qing Dynasty, this kind of clothing became more popular and constantly changing, and later vests were also processed and reformed on this basis.
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