Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional culture - Japanese traditional men's wear

Japanese traditional men's wear

In December of the 11th year of Tuguhun, the imperial court formulated the system of crown and court clothes, imitating the clothing system of China Sui Dynasty. The dress is stand-up, right slit, sleeveless top, white trousers and lace-up, hanging in front. The fabric is made of thick cotton silk, which is distinguished by clothing color. That is to say, virtue takes purple, size takes blue, size suits red, size suits yellow, size suits white, size suits black, blue symbolizes wood, red symbolizes fire, yellow symbolizes earth, white symbolizes gold, and black symbolizes water. Then combine the five elements of wood, fire, earth and gold with the theory of five ethics. Among the five ethics, morality is the first. Pants are made of thick white cotton cloth and belts are made of Japanese cloth.

Ten years after Emperor Tianwu, the Japanese began to use belts. On formal occasions, you wear a cylindrical suit and a long belt. The coat is sewn under the armpit, and the slit is laid down horizontally, and the lace in front hangs a long knot from the right. Simple and convenient clothes for informal occasions are short belt without column, open armpit, no horizontal slit at hem and short lapel.

Since the fourth year of Zhizhi, senior officials have worn silk in winter and in summer, and the ground of silk is decorated with group patterns. Bird's Nest means Bird's Nest, which is shaped like a whirlpool. Colors are also selected according to official positions, ranging from pink, black purple, bordeaux, dark green, dark blue to light blue. The clothes of civilians are yellow, and those of slaves are black.

During the Nara period (7 10-780), influenced by the culture of the Tang Dynasty in China, the social customs of men disguised as women and women disguised as men appeared. There are many kinds of fabrics in Nara era, such as silk, brocade, yarn, silk, silk, silk and cloth. One of the most famous is deer embryo twist.

Heian period (794- 1 192), also known as the "national wind era" in Japanese history, refers to a new culture with a unique national style developed after digesting the culture of the Tang Dynasty. During this period, the clothing technology was developed and the decoration tended to be gorgeous, which was the "aristocratic era" in the history of Japanese clothing. Heian period's court dress became the basis of Tingxi style. The costumes in Heian period include Tang costume, watch, GUI, slender, pot costume, single coat, dress, trousers and so on. Tang suit refers to straight collar clothes with long clothes and short sleeves. Later, Tang suit was also called forbidden color. It is stipulated that scarlet brocade Tang suit can't be worn casually without permission.

Watch is a kind of clothing similar to kimono today.

Gui, is a multi-layer clothing, the number of layers is not limited. According to the story of glory, it is as high as 18-20 floors. Small laurel is a kind of light and transparent clothing covering the watch. The color of this kind of clothing is different from that of the watch, but through the small and light texture, some colors of the watch can be revealed, which is very beautiful, which is a feature of modern Japanese kimono. Slender clothes are worn on Xiao Gui, and there is no special regulation on the texture and pattern of clothes that look slender.

Pot outfit refers to Dai's Dai Li and Dai Gui, which are clothes worn by women when they go out.

Single clothes, especially the decorative "Twelve Orders", are also important clothing styles in this period, which are worn by female officials in the palace. Twelve orders don't refer to twelve layers of single clothes, but to decorative clothes with twelve layers of GUI stacked on them.

The Kamakura shogunate (1 192- 1333) was the first samurai regime in Japanese history, and the samurai costumes in this period had distinct nationality and times. By the Meiji era, Japanese kimono was basically stereotyped.