How to know the development of handicraft industry in South China in Song Dynasty?

Compared with the previous generation, the textile handicraft industry in Song Dynasty had obvious development in raw materials, varieties, product quantity and quality, production scale and production mode, and new contents and factors appeared. This section will discuss and describe this.

First, the development of silk and hemp-based textile handicraft industry.

China's traditional textile handicraft industry is dominated by silk and hemp. In the Song Dynasty, these two textile industries still occupied a dominant position, especially the silk industry, which occupied a core position in the whole Song Dynasty textile industry because of its complete varieties, fine division of labor, exquisite craftsmanship, large output and wide origin. Ma Duanlin listed ten kinds of textiles such as cloth and silk collected by the Song government in Literature General Examination: "One is Luo, the other is Ling, the third is cotton, the fourth is yarn, the fifth is silk, the sixth is fine, the seventh is miscellaneous, the eighth is silk, the ninth is brocade and the tenth is bougainvillea." (1) [Literature General Test, Tianfu Test 4]. At least eight of them are silk, cotton and silk fabrics, which shows the important position of silk industry in the textile industry in Song Dynasty.

Silk weaving spread all over the country in the Song Dynasty, with the most prominent development in the following areas. (1) Hebei Road. The textile industry in this area is extremely developed, and it is known as "Hebei's clothing is the best in the world" (2) [Song History (179) "Foodstuffs". 】, "He Cong, Fu Shuo and Sang Ma" ③ [Cao Xun: Collected Works (volume 17) Guo Zhending. ], Hebei "the beauty of the hustle and bustle is no less than Qilu" ④ [Su Shu: The Collection of Shuangxi, Volume 9, Wu Jia Zazi. 】 and so on. It is a vivid portrayal of the prosperity of silk weaving industry in Hebei Province. Hebei East Road is known as the "State of Spirits" by Qidan because of its rich sericulture and silk products. ]。 Because of the rich and good quality of silk products in this area, it not only became the main area for the Song government to collect silk, but also some bureaucrats and literati used silk as land rent. If there are fields in Hebei, instead of grain, silks and silks are used, "thousands of silks are produced every year" [Song History Volume 298 is attached to Chen Rough Biography]. ]。 (2)JD.COM road. Silk production in this area is mainly concentrated in countries such as Dan, Hao, Ji, Yun, Pu and Qi to the east of Shandong Peninsula and countries such as Zi, Qing, Wei, Mi, Deng and Lai. Local residents have always been rich in the tradition of planting mulberry and raising silkworms, and every household relies on raising silkworms for a living. "The benefits of raising silkworms in Shandong Heshuo are not just planting crops." The development of sericulture is more important than agriculture, so the local government also pays special attention to the protection of sericulture. For example, private households are forbidden to cut mulberry trees for salary when Shaanxi Province becomes a military power, so "One City Mulberry Zhe, chun yin Shelters Wild" (1) [Chicken ribs] volume. ]。 The prosperity of sericulture will inevitably promote the prosperity and development of silk industry, so this area is also an important area for the Song government to collect silk products, which not only produces a lot, but also produces world-famous brand-name products, such as "Dongsi", which ranks first in the country, and is produced in this area. (3) Chengdufu Road and Zizhou area. Sichuan silk industry has a long history, and Shu brocade has always been a famous brand at home and abroad. In the Song Dynasty, Sichuan silk industry made new progress and development on the basis of inheriting the previous generation. The so-called "Shu is rich, Luowan is the best in the world", "The soil is suitable for mulberry and Zhejiang, and cocoon and silk are poor in the world" (2)[ Song History, Volume 276, Fan Ju Biography, Volume Lang Geography. In Song Dynasty, Sichuan silk industry was still in an advantageous and leading position in China. Especially in Zizhou area, after the development of the Tang Dynasty, it has become a new and famous silk weaving center in the Song Dynasty. "Weaving eight-foot-wide silks is forbidden, which was impossible for previous weavers" (3)[ Wu Zeng: An Introduction to Gaizhai (volume 15). ]。 (4) Zhejiang and Jiangdong West Road. Southeast Road in Song Dynasty was rich in silk, silk and silk, especially in Wu Luo. Due to the importance attached to sericulture, silk weaving was particularly developed in the area of Zhejiang and Guangdong, and the output in the Northern Song Dynasty was among the highest in the country. By the Southern Song Dynasty, due to the destruction of the war and the backward rule of Jurchen and Mongolian nobles, the silk industry on the northern road was declining. The silk industry in southeast China, headed by Liang Zhedao, has surpassed the north in both output and quality, ranking first in the country.

The remarkable development of silk industry in Song Dynasty can also be explained from two aspects: quantity and quality. In terms of quantity, the highest income of government silk in the Tang Dynasty reached more than 7.4 million in the Xuanzong period, and the income of fine silk in the early years of Yuan Hua in the Song Dynasty reached 24.45 million, which was more than three times the highest annual income in the Tang Dynasty. It can be seen that the output of silk in Song Dynasty far exceeded that in Tang Dynasty. From the quality point of view, the silk products in the Song Dynasty also far surpassed those in the Tang Dynasty. Not only are there many kinds of products, but each region has its own brand-name products with leading technical style. On the whole, silk fabrics in Song Dynasty are generally thin, dense and light. After comparing the three generations of silk in Tang, Song and Yuan dynasties, later generations pointed out: "Tang silk is thick and thick, Song silk is thin and thin, and Yuan silk is similar to Song silk but slightly uneven." (1) 【 Zhang: The Secret Collection of Qing Dynasty (the original book was Dong Qichang's Records of Qing Dynasty (Door Wall)). Silk fabrics in the Song Dynasty lagged far behind the Tang and Yuan Dynasties because of their fineness and lightness. For this feature of silk fabrics in Song Dynasty, Song people have many specific descriptions, such as "Brazilian yarn" produced in Mianzhou, Sichuan, and "one horse weighs two taels, and women make clothes, which is very exquisite". ]。 Another example is the yarn produced in Chengwu, Ludanfu, JD.COM, which is "widely suitable for officials, but only a hundred baht, like fog". Yarn milling and wheel hub are especially famous for their thinness. Zhang Yong in the Northern Song Dynasty described it in a poem: "Weiyang Rou Hub is like a light cloud, and the yarn is like a cicada." ④ [Zhang Yong: Collection of Good Cliffs 1 Offering Xiaoying at the Banquet]. Lu You, a great poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, also said, "If you don't lift it, you think it's clothes, but it's actually cigarettes." [Lu You: Notes on the Old School Hall, Volume 6. ]。 Through these records, people can imagine the technical level achieved by the silk weaving industry in the Song Dynasty.

In the development of silk weaving industry in Song Dynasty, embroidery and silk engraving are particularly worth mentioning. Embroidery is a traditional craft, while silk carving is a new craft created in Song Dynasty. The skill of embroidery and silk carving in the Song Dynasty is not only lacking in the previous generation, but also amazing to future generations. Zhang, a collector of calligraphy and painting in the Ming Dynasty, said in "The Secret Collection of Qing Dynasty": "Song people embroidered with fine needle and thread, with one or two threads stopped by velvet and fine wool. Exquisite colors, dazzling and interesting landscapes, deep pavilions, vivid figures, graceful flowers and birds, the best one is better than painting, and three interesting things are well prepared. How can the ten fingers of the spring breeze be so beautiful? ..... Yuan people used wool thicker and occasionally painted eyebrows with ink, which is not the precision of the Song Dynasty! " He also said: "Song people carved silks, regardless of landscape figures, flowers and birds, every trace was cut off, so the business was muddy, not for the opportunity." For example, if a woman wears clothes all the year round, it will be finished. For example, Song embroidery is very clever, and Yuan carving is not as good as Song. " ⑥ 【 Quoted from Qi Xia's Economic History of Song Dynasty, p. 630. This review compares the embroidery and silk carving techniques of the Song and Yuan Dynasties, which is completely in line with the reality, and shows that the embroidery and silk carving techniques of the Song Dynasty occupy a prominent position in the development history of China textile handicraft industry.

Although the hemp weaving industry in the Song Dynasty did not occupy an important position like the silk weaving industry, it also expanded and developed compared with the previous generation. The main base of ramie weaving industry in the early Song Dynasty was Guangnan West Road, especially when Chen Yaosou was a transshipment ambassador in Guangxi, the policy of increasing the purchase price of ramie cloth promoted the rapid development of ramie weaving industry in this area. In addition, the hemp industry in Chengdufu Road is also quite developed. In the heyday of Song Renzong, Xue Kui learned that Chengdu Mansion, in the way of "buying with others", "give money in spring and give it in autumn", ① [Fan Zhen: Notes on Dongzhai] Volume III. The hemp industry in this area is also thriving, and it has a thriving trend.

Besides silk and hemp, the development of cotton textile industry is a new content worthy of attention in Song Dynasty. As early as before the Song Dynasty, Li people in Hainan Island had been engaged in the production of cotton fabrics. In the Song Dynasty, cotton planting began to cross the Linghai River and spread to Guangdong, Guangxi, Fujian Road and even Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. By the middle and late Southern Song Dynasty, cotton textiles had become a famous product in eastern, western and Zhejiang provinces. The development of cotton planting industry and cotton textile industry in Song Dynasty is of great significance in the development history of textile industry in China.

Finally, under the influence and drive of the great development of the textile industry in the Song Dynasty, the dyeing and weaving industry and the manufacturing industries such as clothing, hats and shoes, which used to be attached to the textile industry, also developed greatly and became independent and specialized handicraft departments. Dyeing is an ancient technology. By the Tang Dynasty, this technology had a new creation, and Xie Fa, namely printing, was invented. The Song Dynasty inherited this invention and further developed it. Not only are there many kinds of printing and dyeing, but also the process is complex and the technology is extremely exquisite. According to Lu You's Notes on Laoxue Temple, "In the early days of Jingkang, silk weaving, women's jewelry and clothes were all prepared at four o'clock, such as spring banners, lamp carpets, competitions, Ai Hu, clouds and moons, and flowers such as peaches, apricots, lotus flowers, chrysanthemums and plum blossoms were all combined into one scene, which is called one scene a year." The dyehouse industry flourished in the Song Dynasty, and there were independent dyehouses or dyehouses all over the country from the famous city Dayi to small towns. At the same time, various tailor shops also developed in the towns of the Song Dynasty, and an independent tailor industry appeared to make clothes for people. Hat-making and shoe-making industries are also very prosperous. In Bianliang, the capital of the Northern Song Dynasty, Renzong "cut the green shamao to a thousand" [Jiang Xiufu: several magazines on the riverside]. 】, there is a Jiangxi people 18, "with good cutting gauze cap into Bianjing, stop in front of Yan Yuan house for sale". There is also a man named Li who has done "Fu is the best in the world" (2) [Notes on Changing to Zhai (Volume 18)]. ]。 Lin 'an, the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty, also has "Xu Guanren Shantou Store" (3) [Liu Fen: Poems of Zhongshan]. ], the official workshop of the footwear industry has the Silk Shoes Bureau, and it was forbidden to use the Notes of the Old School Hall (Volume II) during the reign of Emperor Gaozong in the Southern Song Dynasty. ], folk Li Jiasi shoe store, Jia Peng oil boots shop, etc. Other clothes, such as belts, are made of belts. In short, all male and female crowns have special producers. Around the issue of clothing, the Song Dynasty divided into independent industries, which is also a manifestation of the development of the textile industry in the Song Dynasty.