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My eyes are full of "Tang suit", not Tang suit- The most dazzling clothing in the clothing market is "Tang suit". These colorful clothes have a stand-up collar or no collar at all, sleeves are connected or sleeved, double-breasted or partially buttoned, straight or round, bearing the traditional patterns of China-five-colored soil, rich cat, dragon, phoenix, crane, butterfly, peony, lotus, dragon, longevity, blessing ... or group flowers or scattered flowers, which suddenly dazzled the eyes of Chinese people. The word "Tang suit" frequently appears in the mouths of China people, and also appears in newspapers, internet, magazines and TV. The upsurge of "Tang suit" has made some silk factories in the south of the Yangtze River "dead trees meet spring", which has greatly increased the sales of silk shops in Hanfu and clothing stores that have long been neglected in Beijing. Men and women dressed in various "Tang costumes" leisurely walk through the city, adding a different kind of scenery like folk painting to the streets and alleys. "Tang costume" has also caused different topics. With these topics, the reporter visited experts in the clothing industry. The two experts I found are both surnamed Yuan-one is a professor at Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts (formerly Central Academy of Arts and Crafts), and the other is Yuan Xun, a professor at Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology. One 1960 graduated from the Central Academy of Arts and Crafts, stayed in school after graduation, and continued to study under historians Shen Congwen and Professor Lei Guiyuan; One 1982 graduated from Suzhou Silk Institute of Technology, then taught there, and 1993 went to the Department of Textile and Clothing of Hong Kong Polytechnic University for postgraduate study. One is one of the founders of the Clothing Department of the Central Academy of Arts and Crafts; One is one of the founders of the clothing department of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology. One is the author of History of Chinese Costume, Cheongsam in China and Performing Arts of Fashion Models. Editor-in-chief of the series of World Famous Fashion Designers and Fashion Design 1, and author and co-author books such as People Dress and Wear People, Modern Fashion Design Course, and World Fashion Masters. In two separate conversations, two professors with different genders, ages and experiences have strikingly similar views on these topics. ■ Topic 1: Some people think that many "Tang suits" sold now are full. There is another person who wants to launch Songzhuang. What is the relationship between "Tang costume" and "full costume"? What is "Tang suit"? ■ Professor Fennie Yuen: It is inappropriate for China people to call their national costumes "Tang costumes". Today's so-called "Tang costume" is not the development of Tang costume, but the continuation and perfection of the whole costume. ■ Professor Yuan Xun: It is understandable that people call it "Tangzhuang". But official or professional organizations, such as the media, should not use such inaccurate words to refer to Hanfu. Professor Fennie Yuen: I don't quite agree to call today's China clothes "Tang suit". Because this source is first and foremost what foreigners call Chinese clothes. "Biography of Foreign Wax in the History of Ming Dynasty" wrote: "People in the Tang Dynasty were also called China people by many foreigners. All overseas countries are definitely. " Therefore, the gathering place of overseas Chinese is called "Chinatown" and Chinese clothes are called "Tang suit". This "Tang" is a foreign name of China. If we in China also call ourselves "Tangren" and the national costume is "Tangzhuang", it would be wrong. I wanted to write an article to correct it, but now everyone has generally stopped, so it is very difficult. Furthermore, since it is called "Tang suit", it should be the development of Tang suit. But the "Tang suit" in history is completely different from what we call it today. In the Tang Dynasty, men wore robes and big sleeves, and women wore long skirts. Today, our so-called "Tang suit"-buckle ring, double-breasted or partial-breasted, stand collar, sleeve or western sleeve-is the continuation and improvement of the whole suit. Professor Xu Yuan: I think the word "Tang suit" is very inaccurate. I originally wanted to organize a few graduate students to discuss, and my point of view was clear: I object to using this title. Some people want to introduce "Songzhuang" and even confuse the meaning. It is not exact to call it "formal dress" because it is not Manchu costume either. As a branch of oriental costume culture, Manchu has a unique costume language in its development process, but it is also influenced by China culture. In the last two hundred years of the Qing Dynasty, Manchu and Han nationalities gradually merged in culture and clothing. Today's so-called "Tang suit" is gradually formed in such historical integration. As for the word "Tang suit", it is understandable for the people to call it this way. But official or professional organizations, such as the media, should not use such inaccurate words to refer to Hanfu. Because it may cause academic confusion, mislead the society and confuse the concept of China's clothing. I think it's ok to call the Chinese clothes people wear today "Chinese clothes" or "Chinese clothes". Topic 2: China has a history of 5,000 years of civilization. Although China culture has experienced the evolution of form and trend of thought, it has always had a core of the same strain. Does China's clothing have the same core? ■ Professor Yuan Xun: Generosity, easygoing and elegance are the basic elements of China traditional costumes. ■ Professor Fennie Yuen: In the history of clothing development in China, the integration of Han and ethnic minorities has always existed. Professor Xu Yuan: China calls itself "the kingdom of clothing". The Book of Changes reads like this: "The Yellow Emperor Yao Shun hangs down his clothes to rule the world, and Gai Gankun." China people attach great importance to their own clothing forms. Since the Shang Dynasty, the Han people's clothing forms have been determined: big chest, right chest, upper and lower. In the Zhou dynasty, there appeared "deep clothes", which we later called "long gowns". These two forms of clothes have coexisted for thousands of years. China's clothing is plain cut, which does not emphasize the characteristics of human body, but distinguishes men's and women's clothing by style, color and decoration, unlike western clothing, which aims at "shaping" human body and strengthening people's secondary sexual characteristics. Due to the geographical environment of our country, silk, linen and later cotton have become the main clothing fabrics in our country, which is different from the western clothing forms with wool as the main raw material. More importantly, oriental culture, especially China culture, has always pursued harmony in the relationship between man and nature. Clothing is artificial nature, and man and this artificial nature should also be harmonious. Our clothing, which is caused by this culture, has always been more generous and straight, more easygoing, elegant and comfortable than western clothing. Professor Fennie Yuen: Just now, I talked about the integration of China and Manchu costumes. In fact, this integration has always existed in the history of clothing development in China. For example, during the Seven Heroes of the Warring States Period, Emperor Zhao felt that the military uniform was too wide, which affected the combat. He reformed Zhao's military uniform with short coats, narrow sleeves and waist belts of the clothes of Hu people (that is, the ancient western regions, now Xinjiang). This is the famous "Khufu riding and shooting" in history. In the Han Dynasty, the Silk Road was opened, and the influence of the western regions on the costumes of the Han Dynasty was even greater. In the Tang dynasty, due to the establishment of diplomatic relations with foreign countries, the costumes of the Tang dynasty were not only influenced by the western regions and northern minorities, but also by eastern Japan. During the Song and Yuan Dynasties, it was greatly influenced by northern privet, Khitan and Mongols. After the Ming Dynasty, the Qing Dynasty was established, Manchu entered the customs, and the whole flag entered the customs, so the costumes of Han and Manchu were unified, which lasted for more than 200 years until * * * *. ■ Topic 3: How did the so-called "Tang suit" evolve to today? ■ Professor Fennie Yuen: Politics and economy are two fundamental factors to promote the clothing reform. Professor Fennie Yuen: * * has continued the costumes of the Qing Dynasty: men are robes and mandarin jackets, and women are cheongsam. Cheongsam in Qing dynasty is cylindrical, which does not show the beauty of human body. Its collar is particularly high, and some have no collar yet. Sleeves are very long and don't show your hands. There is no slit, it is a straight pipe from top to bottom. I named it "box clothes". During the period of * * *, influenced by the west, humanism was introduced, and some concepts such as clothes showing the human body were introduced, and cheongsam began to shrink. And there is a seam, which means that the curves of the skin and the human body are exposed. Cheongsam began to take shape. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, the social system has changed and people's clothes have also changed. People began to wear shorts, and urban women began to wear trousers. Influenced by the People's Liberation Army's entry into the city, such as Beijing, it is popular to wear Lenin's short gray dress with a big belly and a belt. At this time, dramas and movies with rural themes were staged, and the actresses were all wearing Chinese shorts. Women should strive for freedom and go to society, men and women should be equal, and clothing should reflect this social change, but this is different from Hanfu in the future, or big breasts, big breasts and sleeveless. At the end of 1950s, women's dresses in China began to appear inner skirts, which is the pursuit of men's style by women's dresses, because only men's coats are inner skirts. At this time, women entered the society and became the mainstream of society, and equality between men and women became a reality. But only professional women like this double-breasted one. Housewives generally like to wear big skirts or big ones. In 1970s, Chinese double-breasted jackets with western sleeves appeared. This kind of clothing, known as "the combination of Chinese and western", has taken another step forward in the combination with modern clothing. Women in China are more comfortable to wear sleeves, but at that time they emphasized "spirit", so they padded their shoulders and connected them with sleeves, which made them feel more powerful. Today's so-called "Tang suit" is mainly a copy of three kinds of China short skirts, big breasts and big breasts, double-breasted and sleeve seams, since the founding of New China. After 1980s, China began to reform and open up. Reflected in the clothing, that is, fashion unified the clothing of China people, and China clothing disappeared in the market. ■ Topic 4: The Hanfu craze that swept across the country originated from the APEC meeting in Shanghai. Is there a deeper reason? ■ Professor Yuan Xun: It is an inevitable trend of historical development. Professor Yuan Xun: The national costume we are talking about now is mainly a form formed in the farming economy. Including the whole third world, the so-called national costumes are formed in the farming economy or fishing and hunting economy. But this does not mean that this form of clothing has no survival value in industrial society. Internationally, the unique cutting style and charm of China's clothing have repeatedly aroused the interest of westerners for quite some time. Especially in the second half of the 20th century, after the end of the Cold War, the cultural identity between the East and the West in the world has also become a trend. A group of oriental fashion designers, mainly Japanese, created modern clothing with oriental clothing elements, which caused great shock in the west. Therefore, some famous western fashion designers repeatedly use oriental fashion elements as their creative resources. For example, China's cheongsam, even the costumes of the Chinese Red Army, and so on, including China's revolutionary songs as the background music of their fashion show. As far as China is concerned, after the reform and opening up, as China's economy has gradually entered a well-off society from shortage, the clothing industry has gradually changed from weak to strong, from naive to mature. At the same time, consumers in China are gradually maturing. From the early days of reform and opening up, as long as it is western, it is good and "brought"; I gradually realized that I want to pursue my own personality, one of which is to pursue my own national personality. First of all, the entertainment and intellectual circles have re-selected China traditional costumes with individuality, including cheongsam and Chinese tunic suit, as dresses for some special occasions. Before the APEC meeting in Shanghai, some domestic enterprises were already producing Chinese-style clothes because there was such a consumer group. And this trend has been increasing in recent years. Therefore, I think today's fashion craze in China is not only brought by the Shanghai APEC meeting, but also the necessity of the development of historical trends. The world began to realize that in 2 1 century, the oriental costume culture will also occupy a certain position in modern clothing. China, in particular, has a very rich clothing culture. China's political strength and economic development have given the whole people a strong desire to re-understand our traditional costumes, which was triggered by the Shanghai APEC meeting. ■ Topic 5: We have long violated our traditional costumes. Is it possible for Hanfu to return to our daily life in China because of the current "Tang suit" craze? ■ Professor Fennie Yuen: 50% probability. The key is whether it can adapt to the daily life of modern China people. ■ Professor Yuan Xun: It is difficult to summarize. I think it's not the shape of our own clothes, but how to update them. Professor Fennie Yuen: Some people will really like and miss China clothes, because this style is more suitable for China people, both emotionally and physically. There are still some people, especially young people, who always like the latest fashions and are more receptive to western fashions than China clothes. One more thing, now many people buy and wear Hanfu, which is somewhat curious. And many of our manufacturers and sellers are also catering to this curiosity. You see, almost all the "Tang suits" on the market now are made of satin, with large flowers and tapestries. Many people like to imitate, but they don't know whether a dress looks good on themselves or this dress looks good. If they just follow the trend and follow the fashion, then this fashion will not last long. Whether Chinese clothing can return to China people's daily life still has a key point: whether it can adapt to modern people's life. Take cheongsam for example, it has a very good influence in the world. I think it is beautiful for oriental women to wear cheongsam. But this time, Hanfu is hot, and cheongsam is not hot. A very important reason is that it is really inconvenient and not suitable for modern life. You can't ride a bike or take a bus. Walking, the next two pieces will be "fooled". However, in recent years, I have seen an improved cheongsam sold in summer, and the lower body is removed to become ultra-short, which is convenient and beautiful for girls to wear. Professor Yuan Xun: This thing is very popular and strange. Although we all say that we should predict popularity, it is difficult to predict it. But when you look back, our clothes often have a certain fashion cycle and some objective laws. Of course, some fashions are longer and some fashions are shorter. First of all, people are born with a psychology of liking the new and hating the old. On the other hand, there are social, political, economic and cultural influences, which are subconscious reflections of social psychology. Whether Hanfu can be popular for a long time, I don't think it lies in the shape of our own clothes, but in how to update it. Not long ago, my friend gave me a set of "Tang suit", which I was not satisfied with, because it was basically copying tradition. Moreover, it needs to be improved and new clothing language needs to be absorbed. Never simply take out what our ancestors developed and say that this is to promote national culture. It is important to combine our traditional clothing with our modern lifestyle and modern aesthetic taste to create a national costume that is both China and modern, so that fashion can last for a long time. This is a major issue and difficult problem for China garment industry, design industry and entrepreneurs. You should also bring cheongsam. The improvement process of cheongsam is a successful combination of China's traditional costume culture, China's lifestyle at that time, western cutting methods and aesthetics. I think after further research and development, cheongsam can become the dress of contemporary women in China, just like Japanese kimono. In the last historical period, we had at least two examples of Chinese tunic suit and cheongsam, which combined nationalization and modernization well. So, in the new era, can we create such new Chinese clothes? In this regard, I think