Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional culture - Li Clothing

Li Clothing

Introduction of Li Clothing Li Clothing, mainly woven and sewn using island cotton, hemp, kapok, bark fibers and silk. In ancient times, some places also utilized the bark of the kozo tree or the blood-seeing tree as dress material. This kind of clothing material is cut down from the mountain bark, after beating to remove the outer layer of skin residue, leaving the fiber layer, and then soaked with lime (snail shells burned into ash) and sun-dried into. Li men generally wear a shirt with a lapel and no collar and long pants, and a turban with a pheasant plume. Women wear a black round-necked kangtou jacket with many ornaments, the neckline with white and green beads strung into three sets of edges, the cuffs and hemline decorated with floral motifs, and the front and back of the body with small beads strung into colorful patterns. Underneath, they wear tight-fitting, ultra-short tube skirts. Some of them wear black and blue flat-necked blouse with white flower pattern embroidered on the cuffs and a horizontal stripe pattern on the back, and they wear colorful flowery tube skirt with the skirt's closed pleats on the front, and when they are in full costume, they put silver hairpin on their heads, wear silver chains and collars around their necks, hang bead bells on their chests, and wear silver rings on their hands. The head is tied with a black cloth turban.1 On June 14, 2008, the Li costume declared by Hainan Jinxiu Weaving Shell Company Limited was approved by the State Council to be listed in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage. (Category: Folklore; No. Ⅹ-111)

What are the ethnic characteristics of Li women's costumes? There are five dialect areas of the Li people, and there are several native languages in the dialect areas, then the costumes have their own characteristics.

Ha dialect Li dress style more, there are wearing a long skirt and short skirt. Long skirts up to the calf more folded on the right side of the clothes have a collar and buckle closure. The short skirt covers the knees. The patterns are mostly human, animal and plant patterns. The dress has a placket, no collar, no buttons and no buttons. Clothes are mostly black and blue, clothes are divided into embroidered and non-embroidered two kinds.

Qi dialect dress is also divided into several sections. There are wearing a long skirt and a short skirt, long skirt more folded at the back, wearing a plain dress with an open right placket, knot hair inserted silver hairpins with silver collar and silver chain. The short skirt is as long as the knee. Woven with various colors and patterns, the clothes have a lapel collarless and collar embroidered clothes. Dress overall colorful.

Sai dialect dress. The long skirt is folded back, and the hem of the tube skirt is woven into the mica sheet. Wear a high necked right lapel coat. Black turban tied on the head. Floating behind the back. Hair is tied with a silver hairpin. With a silver collar and chain.

Mobil dialect area dress, wearing a long skirt folded in front, woven flowers. Clothes for the square collar lapel blouse, the edge of the garment embroidered flowers. Head tied black and white turban. The chest hangs a silver accessory.

Run dialect dress. Wears a super short skirt about 28 cm long with a silver belt. Weaving flowers. Mostly adult pattern. Clothes for the Guanshou clothes. Clothes side both sides embroidery mostly dragon pattern bird pattern horse pattern and so on. Double-sided embroidery is highly skillful. Head wrapped in a large black turban tail embroidery.

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In the library of Hainan Province (Guoxing Avenue) there is a Li brocade workshop, which is specialized in the display and sale of Li brocade.

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What are the characteristics of the Li people? Although the Li people do not have their own writing, but created a rich and colorful oral literature. Its lively form, wide range of subjects and rich content have been passed down from generation to generation. It mainly includes stories, legends, myths, fairy tales, religious genealogies and so on. Some of the more famous ones are "The Origin of the Human Gong", "Wuzhishan Daxian", "Legend of the Flood", "Gan Gong Bird", "Deer Head" and so on. Both reflect the social history, summarize life experience, disseminate knowledge in all aspects, enrich people's spiritual life, but also the Li people's hopes and pursuits.

Li musical instruments

Li musical instruments from life

Traditional Li musical instruments, none of which are closely related to life. Data introduced, the earliest musical instruments is a one-wood drum, according to the ancient folk songs of the Li people said that in ancient times, because of the Lei Gong knocked down the tree, burned trees into a hole, the ancestors of the Li people hit the wooden hole called the crowd hunting, and then people with cowhide or buckskin masked the mouth of the big hole, knocking up the thumping sound, in order to recruit the crowd, sacrifices and musical instruments to be used.

Dingdong wood is also an early percussion instrument. In ancient times, the Li people cut down the mountain planting mountain orchids, mountain pigs often come out at night to spoil the mountain orchid rice, in order to protect the mountain orchid rice, mountain orchid watchers, in the mountain hut hanging two wooden poles, after the blow on the ding-dong sound to drive away the mountain pigs, and later developed into a dance entertainment percussion instruments.

Li musical instruments are mainly eight

Historical history of Li traditional musical instruments have sporadic records, the early Song Dynasty, "Taiping Huanyu Ji" cloud: "Qiongzhou polymerization push drums singing music." According to the old artists, the Li traditional musical instruments to the Qing dynasty during the Kangxi and Qianlong years most prevalent.

Li proverb: the song is not stopping, the flute sound is not stopping. This proverb reflects the long history of the folk instruments of the Li people as well as the folk songs.

According to Fu Cechao, president of the provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage Research Association, there are no less than 40 types of Li musical instruments, and the main traditional instruments are: dolomite drums, dingtong wood, mouth bow, Li Li, beeping, mouth to worship, nose xiao, burn bar, and other eight major pieces.

Wang Haichang, deputy director of the Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage Protection Center, has been a deep study of Li musical instruments, he said: "Li traditional musical instruments from nature in a variety of bamboo, wood, animal and animal skins raw materials, after manual processing into musical instruments, exudes the atmosphere of life in primitive society. Li musical instruments is a vivid embodiment of people revering nature, is the original ecological music remains."

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Request the characteristics and practices of Li costumes and the significance of their costumes ........ I'm in a hurry. I'll need it later. .... The Li people have five dialect areas, which are also divided into a number of native languages, so the costumes have their own characteristics.

Ha dialect Li ethnic dress style more, have to wear a long skirt and short skirt. Long skirts up to the calf more folded on the right side of the clothes have a collar and buckle closure. The short skirt covers the knees. The patterns are mostly human, animal and plant patterns. The dress has a placket, no collar, no buttons and no buttons. Clothes are mostly black and blue, clothes are divided into embroidered and non-embroidered two kinds.

Qi dialect dress is also divided into several sections. There are wearing a long skirt and a short skirt, long skirt more folded at the back, wearing a plain dress with open right placket, knot hair inserted silver hairpin with silver collar and silver chain. The short skirt is as long as the knee. Woven with various colors and patterns, the clothes have a lapel collarless and collar embroidered clothes. Dress overall colorful.

Sai dialect dress. The long skirt is folded back, and the hem of the tube skirt is woven into the mica sheet. Wear a high necked right lapel coat. Black turban tied on the head. Floating behind the back. Hair is tied with a silver hairpin. With a silver collar and chain.

Mobil dialect area dress, wearing a long skirt folded in front, woven flowers. Clothes for the square collar lapel blouse, the edge of the garment embroidered flowers. Head tied black and white turban. The chest hangs a silver accessory.

Run dialect dress. Wears a super short skirt about 28 cm long with a silver belt. Weaving flowers. Mostly adult pattern. Clothes for the Guanshou clothes. Clothes side both sides embroidery mostly dragon pattern bird pattern horse pattern and so on. Double-sided embroidery is highly skillful. Head wrapped in a large black turban tail embroidery.

Too much to say.

Li information 20 points Li culture

Baoting County, Hainan Province, Li Miao Autonomous County is located in the central part of Hainan Province at the southern foot of the Wuzhishan Mountains, is a bright green pearl in the mountains of central Hainan Island. The county covers an area of 1160.6 square kilometers, with a population of 160,000 people, of which 94,000 are Li, accounting for 61% of the county's population, Baoting's county name comes from the Ming Dynasty's "Bao Ting Si", which was renamed "Baoting Camp" in the Qing Dynasty. In 1935, the county administrative structure was formally established, and in 1987, Baoting Li and Miao Autonomous County was established. The Li in Baoting area have dialects such as Qi, Ha, Sai, etc. The language and living customs of each dialect area are also different, but the culture, art and entertainment are basically the same. Since ancient times, the hard-working and courageous Li people have lived and prospered on this piece of land, and they, together with the Han Chinese and other ethnic groups, have created a long history and a distinctive island culture.

The Li people, an honorable member of the Chinese nation, are one of the ethnic minorities with a population of more than one million. They are the earliest inhabitants of Hainan Island. According to archaeologists' testimonies and historical records, at least two to three thousand years ago in the Neolithic Age, a part of the ancient Baiyue people crossed the Qiongzhou Strait more than once from the mainland of the two (Guangdong, Guangxi) and reached the northeastern part of the island before gradually spreading to the whole island. These were the ancestors of the present-day Le people. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, they were called "Li", while in the Sui Dynasty they were called "Slang" and "Bong". During the reign of Emperor Dezong of the Tang Dynasty, they were called "Li", but it was not until after the Song Dynasty that they were commonly called "Li", "Dai" and "Bong". The ancestors of the Li people have been pioneering and multiplying on this isolated island for a long time until today. In the process of pioneering the deserted island, they created rich material conditions for the survival of human beings in the struggle with nature. According to the Han Book? Geography" records, *** into Hainan, found that this "east and west, north and south, north and south of a thousand miles" of the "continent", "the people are all dressed in cloth such as a single quilt, wearing the center of the through the head, the men plow agriculture; planting WoFu, wringing hemp, fishing, hunting. Women mulberry silkworm weaving performance, death of horses and tigers, the people have five animals, mountain more elk, soldiers are contradictory, bowed incompetent, bamboo vector, or bone for arrowheads." Visible Han before the ancestors here have lived the life of men plowing and weaving. They are the founder of China's textile industry. Li abundance of pearl, Ji Bei (Li brocade, Li single), five-color rattan, incense, puzzle seeds, etc., through the ages are tributes to the feudal court tribute, which Li textiles, had been hailed by poets as "machine Lyric fine craftsmanship, a hundred flowers a thousand years". Li people in the development of Hainan Island, the construction of the island in the struggle, not only created their own material culture also created a rich spiritual culture. They have their own unique production tools, farming methods and ways. In the process of conquering nature, they created many moving legends and magical mythological stories, beautiful songs, ethnic musical instruments rich in island characteristics and widely circulated dances and music. Despite the backwardness of their culture, they were still able to create their own knotted ropes, carved wood to keep track of things, animals to keep track of the day, as well as weights and measures, and so on.

Li customs

The Li are the earliest inhabitants of Hainan, whose history can be traced back to the Neolithic era, and has been thousands of years. The long history of development has gradually formed their own unique customs and habits.

There are two types of housing for the Li: boat-shaped houses and jinzhi houses. Boat-shaped house is a traditional bamboo and wood structure building, the shape of a boat canopy, semi-cylindrical, with bamboo and wood frame, covered with thatch. The Jinzi-shaped house is built with tree trunks as supports, bamboo sheets as walls, and a layer of mud. The staple food of the Li people is rice, and the traditional bamboo tube rice is fragrant. Men and women love to drink glutinous rice wine, often a few people sit around the wine altar, with a thin bamboo tube inserted into the altar, take turns sucking wine, there are also bowls of wine to drink.

The dress of the Li people is also very distinctive: women wear long-sleeved blouses with lapels and tube skirts, and some wear over-the-head blouses, with their hair tied behind their heads, inserted with decorations such as bone hairpins and green floral headbands; men wrap their heads in red or black cloth and wear collarless lapel tops with front and back cloths underneath the "hanging eaves".

The marriage customs of the Li people are: young men and women are free to fall in love; widows have the freedom to remarry.

When the Li people died, they practiced burial, and the funeral rituals differed from place to place, and more importance was attached to the choice of graves.

Festivals include the Spring Festival, Ching Ming Festival, Dragon Boat Festival and Mid-Autumn Festival.

Etiquette: When the guests come, the host greets them at the door, takes out the tobacco, pipe and kindling, invites the guests to smoke and rest outside the door, and then invites them to drink wine inside the house. The guests sit opposite each other at the banquet, and if they are male guests, they drink first and then eat; if they are female guests, they eat first and then drink; if they are good friends, they drink and sing to each other.

Taboo: weekdays, whether they or others can not mention the name of the ancestors, such as outsiders inadvertently mention the name of their forefathers in front of each other, often cause each other unpleasant; part ...... >>

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What are the customs of the Li people? Li is a ritual nation, etiquette in the Li society occupies an important position, Li etiquette has a rich content, involves a number of aspects of production and life.

Banquet etiquette in Hainan Province, the Li people have a set of dietary etiquette to entertain guests. When dining, the male guests first wine and then rice, the female guests first rice and then wine. The guests sit separately. When inviting the guests to drink, the host first raises the bowl of wine with both hands to show the guests that he is inviting them to drink, and then he drinks the wine himself. Next, the rice wine is brought to the guests one by one, and after the guests finish the wine, the host gives each mouth a mouthful of meat and vegetables to show respect. Usually, the hosts only drink with the guests, not eat with them, for fear that the guests will be too embarrassed to eat their meals.

Reconciliation etiquette in Hainan Province, the Li ethnic area, there is a reconciliation of etiquette, Li called "Rui fork", meaning "give good color". Both sides of the armed conflict, if you want to truce and make peace, say goodbye, each sent a widow to act as a mediator. Each side also has a representative. Widow first put a number of coins into a pot of water, the two representatives from the water out of coins, wipe each other's eyes. Then they took the coins from each other and threw them behind their heads. Finally, they toast each other as a sign of reconciliation.

Sowing etiquette Hainan Li generally in the lunar calendar around the spring equinox in February planting early rice, July before and after the fall planting late rice. Before each season of rice-planting, it is necessary for the mu head to first pick twigs with green leaves, hanging in front of their own homes, and then mu head of the wife wearing new clothes, new tube skirt, early in the morning in the field corner of the first 100 seedlings, and next to the insertion of leaves and red vine leaves, indicating that the soul of the rice has a master. Only after that, women in the village are allowed to plant rice seedlings in the fields. On the first day of rice-planting, the head of the mu and his wife could not rest in bed during the day and could not speak when they met others on the road. Folk think, daytime bed rest, will make the women rice planting speed slow down; with outsiders speak, will leak the wind, take away good luck, not conducive to rice growth.

Funeral etiquette in Hainan Li, when the patient in the dying, the family still have to feed the water feeding, show filial piety. After the death of a loved one, to sound the funeral, friends and relatives together to discuss the funeral ceremony. The family and neighbors in the village come to help by carrying pigs and picking wine. The deceased is washed and dressed in new clothes, which must be worn upside down. The deceased if female, but also in its face smeared with black ash on the bottom of the stove, to show that hard work in life, to the netherworld will welcome.

Li custom, not to do coffins before life, that is not auspicious, people die, by the brothers on the mountain to cut wood to make coffins. Coffins according to the Li family customary rules are divided into four classes, a class of coffins made of lychee, black ink, mountain silk and other good wood, the user's funeral to kill the mouth of the cow as a sacrifice, and the remaining three to kill the pig as a sacrifice. Second-class is made of tree bark, third-class bamboo coffins prepared with bamboo, fourth-class is dew pocket mat coffin.

Ritual ritual ancestor ceremony Hainan Li people, the 14th day of the seventh month of the lunar calendar every year, to hold folk ancestor worship activities. On this day, each family to kill chickens to buy meat and five-color paper cut into paper clothes to worship ancestors. In the evening, each family by the children in front of the house inserted a few sticks of incense, in order to sacrifice that no one offer sacrifices to the ancestors.

Ceremony of the Rice Gong and Rice Woman Ceremony The Li people hold the ceremony of the Rice Gong and Rice Woman Ceremony every year when the rice is ripe. By the "fear of Ya" (lead ploughman) to each field bundled four rice, symbolizing the rice Gong and Granny, placed on a small ball of rice, rice Gong and Granny to eat, on behalf of the caretaker to guard the rice, in order to bless the harvest and the peace of all the villagers. Rice male and female rice usually by the fear of Ya custody, placed in the lower level of the barn, the following year after the harvest, before it is brewed and distributed to the crowd.