The historical development of cheongsam

The historical development of the cheongsam

In the day-to-day learning, no matter what we learn, we need to master some knowledge points, knowledge points are the smallest unit of knowledge, the most specific content, sometimes called "test points". Mastering the knowledge points will help you learn better. The following is the historical development of the cheongsam that I have organized for you, I hope it will help you.

The historical development of the cheongsam

The ancestor of the cheongsam can be traced back to the Manchus living outside the border. This "cheongsam" is attached to the top and bottom, round neck, wide front and back lapels, long slits, narrow sleeves, men and women can wear, but the women's "cheongsam" in some details with embroidery decorations. After the cheongsam became the court dress, the decoration and accessories also became more and more delicate and complex. It was not until 1929 that the government announced that the cheongsam would be officially recognized as the national dress.

History

The evolution of the cheongsam has been characterized by the intertwining of nationalities, concepts, customs, and styles, and is filled with the tension of the process of cultural collision and fusion.

The ancestor of the cheongsam can be traced back to the Manchu people living outside the customs. This "cheongsam" up and down belonging to the round neck, before and after the lapel wide, long slits, narrow sleeves, men and women can wear - only women wear the "cheongsam" in the collar, lapel and cuffs of the place are embroidered decorations. The only thing is that women wear cheongsams with embroidered decorations on the collar, front bodice and cuffs. The cold weather outside the pass and the nomadic lifestyle of horseback riding and archery were important factors in the creation of this warm and appropriate clothing. 1644, the cheongsam came into Beijing with the Manchu rulers, who at that time were known as "cheongsam people", so the robes they wore were known as "cheongsams". cheongsam".

The cheongsam became the court dress, in the decoration and accessories are increasingly fine and complex. Court women wore cheongsam, often with a fake bun known as "big pull wings" and "flower pot bottom" flag shoes. Wearing this, more and more looks like the flag woman slender, graceful. But this time the cheongsam and the modern sense of the alleged cheongsam in the style, cut, decoration is far apart.

According to the Qing regulations "ten from ten not from" provisions, the Han Chinese women could not wear cheongsam. Relative to the Qing court on the Han men dressed in Manchu strict regulations, Han women have the freedom not to wear the flag of the flag dress. However, changes in dress customs often occurred subtly with changes in social mores. In the three hundred years of Manchu rule, Manchu and Han women's dress in each other's eyes and imitation of each other in the quiet integration, in the style and style of a number of similarities.

Until 1910, after the fall of the Qing Dynasty, the flag dress in a short period of silence, but in the Han Chinese women quietly appeared, as early as 1913 in Shanghai and other places on the street, has appeared in the cheongsam of Han Chinese women. It is said that the earliest Han Chinese women wearing cheongsams were a group of Shanghai's `girl students', who walked the streets in spacious blue cloth cheongsams, arousing the envy of women from all walks of life, citing them as a symbol of fashion. At the beginning of the twentieth century, schoolgirls represented the image of free and liberated women, and their actions and dress often became the wind vane of social fashion, so the cheongsam they wore also became a symbol of civilization and modernity, which attracted women from all walks of life to follow suit.

In 1921, the cheongsam became popular among women in Shanghai, and then rapidly expanded to all walks of life across the country, gradually becoming the daily wear of exclusive women. The modern sense of cheongsam is this based on the flag dress and extensive absorption of Western-style tailoring methods to produce the sea cheongsam, Shanghai has become the birthplace of cheongsam.

In 1929, the Republic of China Service Regulations made provisions for the formal designation of the cheongsam as the national dress, that is, the national dress. There were two types of women's dresses, one with a blue blouse and black skirt, and the other with a long cheongsam. The fact that the cheongsam was regulated in the form of a government decree is enough to show that the cheongsam conquered Chinese women with its unique charms in only a decade or so. From then on, until the end of the 1940s, the cheongsam became the "national dress" of China, and the most important daily dress for Chinese women.

Changes in style

In the 1920s, at the beginning of its popularity, the style of cheongsam was very different from that of the Manchu cheongsam, with its decorations shifting from elaborate to simple, and its styles going from wide to modest. The length of the robe body shortened to between the knee and the ankle; sleeves slightly tightened and shortened, and exposed a section of the wrist; collar is also influenced by the Han Chinese women, once also became "Yuanbao high collar", and then gradually become shorter. 1926 to 1927, the cheongsam hemline height is still moderate, the cuffs draw on the "civilized new clothes" features. Civilized New Dress", cut into inverted large sleeves, exposing women's arms to a greater extent. During the Revolutionary period, women were expressing their individuality in the trend of liberation. Influenced by the social trend and the popular short skirts in Europe and America, the style and decoration changed even more boldly. The hemline of the cheongsam was raised to below the knee, and the cuffs began to become smaller; by 1928, the decorative piping was becoming more and more simple and disappearing. The schoolgirl's cheongsam was raised an inch higher, exposing the youthful calves. The schoolgirls wore these cheongsams even to play soccer and ride bicycles. To the end of the twenties, the cheongsam began to waist, the robe gradually become fit, boldly revealing the beautiful curves of women.

The 1930s was the heyday of cheongsam development, and the improved cheongsam was the mainstream of this period. In this decade, the cheongsam was colorful and varied in style. Collar, sleeve, hem, slit in the popularity and fashion under the influence of change: high collar, low collar, no leading after the popularity; long-sleeved, short-sleeved, sleeveless show its beauty; cheongsam length, long is the edge of the dress sweeping, short is exposed to the knee and even thigh, all to reach its extreme. European and American popular elements take turns to appear, cheongsam fabrics are colorful, accessories decorated dazzling, presenting the cheongsam development history of the most gorgeous era.

At the beginning of the thirties, the length of the cheongsam followed the style of the twenties, the popular short cheongsam, the length of the hemline is slightly above the knee, but in 1932 began to lengthen, long as the "edge of the garment sweeping the ground". This was mainly due to the popularity of high-heeled shoes among urban women around 1932. This kind of leather shoes from Europe and the United States fashion and cheongsam match, change the cheongsam fashion direction. Originally, the cheongsam was fashioned with a lower hemline, but in order to increase the beauty of high-heeled shoes, the hemline of the cheongsam was lengthened, which made women look slender, slender, and sexy. By around 1934, the length of the cheongsam could cover the feet. This "sweeping cheongsam" is mostly high collar, installed three buttons, collar height up to the chin, even in the hot summer also does not change the fashion. As the cheongsam lengthened, the cheongsam's slit is also getting higher and higher, to 1934 around almost open to the hips, walking swaying, legs appearing. 1935, the cheongsam is popular low slit, the slit is only up to the calf, but the robe body is still very long. Wearing such a style of cheongsam when sitting looks subtle and generous, walk elegantly slow, but walking inconvenience. 1937 Anti-Japanese War broke out, women from all walks of life actively involved in the anti-Japanese salvation movement, in order to walk for convenience, the robe body is shortened year by year, the slit is also gradually raised, the sleeves have also become long and thin fit.

In addition to that period is also the cheongsam fabric is extremely rich years. Textiles imported in large quantities, from all kinds of satin to cotton, tweed, gauze, everything. Especially after the emergence of hollow fabrics and semi-transparent chemical fiber and silk, "through, dew, thin" cheongsam began to popular. Pure and lovely, sexy, dignified and elegant styles can be seen in the cheongsam. The cheongsam and the suit were further combined, and the tailoring adopted more western-style clothing practices, adding chest, waist and shoulder pads. The collar and sleeves are more popular at that time, the collar is made of western-style lapel, and the sleeves are made of ruffled sleeves, split sleeves, and the hem is decorated with ruffles, or asymmetric lace, etc. More fashionable, the cheongsam is made directly in the cheongsam. More fashionable directly in the cheongsam outside wearing a suit coat.

Craftsmanship

After the Manchus entered the country, the cheongsam absorbed a variety of crafts from the Han Chinese, and the decorations gradually became complicated. Originally used to protect the collar, cuffs, hem easily broken plain edge gradually embroidered decoration, into the road inlaid. Three inlays three inlays, five inlays five inlays to "eighteen inlays roll", the court aristocratic women's and even the whole piece of clothing decorative motifs almost hide the original face of the fabric.

The cheongsam has multiple detailed process, the main production process for the "set, embedded, roll, dang, disk, paste, embroidery, painting,". That is to say, rolling process, inlaying process, embedded line (strip) process, hanging strip process, plate button process, sticking process, embroidery process, painting process. These techniques make the cheongsam interlocked in every detail, matching layer by layer, to achieve the purpose of smooth lines, suitable for the human body and beautiful decoration. The process of making cheongsam is also a comprehensive application of traditional Chinese craftsmanship. These craft secrets inherit and carry forward the essence of traditional Chinese dressmaking techniques. The production of a cheongsam often requires the craftsman to use the whole set of techniques of "inlaying, embedding, rolling, dangling, panning, sticking, embroidering and painting" to ensure that the cheongsam has a smooth and unified style. In addition, the cut of the cheongsam can also be called a model of the production of East meets West. The use of chest, waist, sleeves, shoulder seams and other Western technology, combined with traditional Chinese craftsmanship, so that the cheongsam can not only reflect the traditional Chinese women's subtle and gentle charm, but also reflects the modern women's simple and capable style.

Knowledge of cheongsam etiquette

When wearing a cheongsam, pay attention to:

1, cheongsam fabrics, colors should be coordinated with the occasion of the dress. Ordinary cotton and silk brocade to make the same style of cheongsam, its style will be very different: a simple and elegant, a gorgeous and noble. Buy cheongsam, must consider wearing the occasion factors, choose the appropriate style of fabrics and colors. The neckline of the cheongsam is closed tightly, and when you buy a short-sleeved, sleeveless cheongsam to wear on a hot day, it's best to choose sweat-absorbing, breathable and comfortable fabrics.

2, choose the cheongsam, pay attention to the cheongsam style and their identity coordination. Avant-garde style shoulderless sleeveless or chestless cheongsam, as well as fur piping of the ultra-short cheongsam with boots, worn on the star will be extraordinarily outstanding, but not suitable for conservative industry staff daily wear.

3, the cheongsam's collar, collar height, shoulder width, bust, waist, hip circumference should be fitted, any one place is too tight or too loose, will make the beauty of a big discount, they wear will feel very uncomfortable.

4, check all the buttons before wearing, such as sewing line loose buttons, before wearing must be reinforced again to ensure that the buttons will not fall off when wearing.

5, cheongsam style gives the overall feeling of "in the rigor of the flow of solemn sexy", if the buttons are loose, will immediately produce a "dust" sense. Therefore, women wearing cheongsam, no matter how the weather, cheongsam all the buttons must be all buttoned up. Any one button is not button, will leave others difficult to erase the "frivolous" impression.

6, long and ankle-length high slit cheongsam, its style and chest and ankle-length Western evening dress has the same effect, therefore, only in the formal dinner or performance occasions, or hotels, hotels and other requirements to wear a specific Chinese workwear occasions, women can wear slits in the middle of the thigh above the high slit long cheongsam. For daily work or leisure occasions, the slit of the cheongsam should not be higher than 10 centimeters above the upper edge of the knee.

7, wearing a cheongsam with stockings is best with pantyhose, so you do not have to worry about the mouth of the stockings from the slit exposed. However, it should be noted that the fabric of the cheongsam must be chosen not to be static with the stockings fabric.

8, the style of shoes to match the style of the cheongsam.

9, underwear should not be exposed. With the cheongsam matching underwear in the style and color should be carefully selected, the requirements of proper, comfortable, and underwear outline without trace.

10, wear cheongsam, pay extra attention to maintain good manners. Because the cheongsam's shape is very close to the natural curves of women, so the indecent standing and sitting posture will be completely exposed in front of everyone.

Cheongsam Maintenance Methods

First, the washing method of clothing:

Before cleaning, we must take into account the nature of the garment being washed and its requirements, and reasonably select the type of detergent. For cotton, linen clothing, its alkali resistance is good, the use of ordinary soap or general laundry detergent and other alkaline detergent, not only will not damage the fiber, but also to help decontamination.

For silk or woolen velvet clothing, because the protein fibers are not alkali, washing should be selected with neutral soap, neutral laundry detergent or weak alkaline detergent, so as to avoid fiber damage, affecting the feel.

For milk stains, gravy, soy sauce, blood and other stains on the clothing, should also choose to use enzyme laundry detergent, the use of alkaline protease stains decomposition removal.

Second, the maintenance of clothing:

Cotton, hemp clothing maintenance

Cotton, hemp clothing is generally not afraid of the crystal sun, but a long time in the sun will reduce the wearing of the firmness of the wearer, especially prone to make the clothing faded or yellowed, and therefore should be avoided, and air drying the reverse side. In the process of wearing, we should avoid staining the acid to cause corrosion damage.

corduroy and flat velvet clothing to minimize the elbow, arm, knee, hip pressure, grinding, to prevent rolling, velvet, stained with glue paste substances can not be removed after drying, so as not to pull off the velvet, usually the best often brush the velvet. Cotton, linen clothing washing, drying, ironing, to stack flat, dark and light-colored clothing stored separately. Cotton, linen clothing is easy to absorb moisture, collection to avoid humidity, heat, ventilation and closet, box, cabinet unclean caused by mold.

Tweed clothing maintenance

Tweed clothing should be selected to dry in a cool ventilated place, sun exposure will cause fading and gloss, elasticity, strength of the decline. Thicker dark-colored clothing drying time can be longer, thinner light-colored clothing drying time should be short. When wearing tweed clothing, do not contact with sharp, rough objects and strong alkaline substances to prevent hooking, hair and corrosion. Shrinking woolen tweed garments should also pay attention to minimize friction, so as not to shed the wool, revealing the bottom pattern. Tweed clothing collection, should be washed, ironing, drying, to be fully dry, cool clothing, and then stacked storage.

High-grade tweed clothing is best hung in the closet do not stack pressure, so as not to deform, affecting the appearance. Collection and storage at the same time, in the clothing pockets, bags, boxes and cabinets into the paper wrapped health ball or camphor tablets to prevent moths. Collection process should be appropriate to open the cabinet, let it ventilate. In the high humidity and high temperature summer should also be dried several times to prevent mold. Plush clothing can not be heavy pressure, otherwise it will make the fluffy inverted.

Silk clothing maintenance

Silk clothing belongs to high-grade clothing, generally should not be exposed to sunlight, so as to avoid fading and strength, feel, gloss inferior. When wearing, pay attention not to contact with rough, sharp objects to prevent hooked silk hair, but also do not contact with alkali, acid and other substances to prevent fiber damage. Quercus than clothing should also avoid staining water stains, otherwise it is more difficult to remove. Silk clothing collection, should be washed, ironed, dried, best stacked, wrapped in cloth placed in the box cabinet. Hanging with hangers, often make some silk clothing due to self-weight and long. White or light-colored silk clothing collection should not be put into the sanitary ball and camphor tablets, can not be placed in the camphor box, otherwise it will be yellow.

Maintenance of chemical fiber clothing

Chemical fiber clothing is generally not suitable for a long time in the sun, otherwise it will be aging and hardening, loss of strength, discoloration or fading. Chemical fiber clothing collection should be washed, ironed, dried, stacked flat, should not be hung in the closet for a long time, so as not to make the clothes hanging elongation. As chemical fibers are generally not moth, mildew storage may not put health ball or camphor tablets. If the storage of its mixed textile clothing, should be put into a small amount of health balls or camphor tablets, but to use paper wrapped, to avoid direct contact with the clothing, because these agents will make the chemical fiber swelling and deformation, viscosity and reduce the strength, and even make the clothing damaged, so that can not be worn should be properly ventilated and drying, to prevent the birth of mildew.

Third, the cheongsam ironing elements:

Ironing temperature ironing is heat-setting, different fibers, its structure, nature is different, and thus the temperature required for ironing is different. The temperature is too low to achieve the purpose of heat shaping, while the temperature is too high, and will damage the fiber, or even make the fiber melting or carbonization. Therefore, the ironing of clothing requires a certain temperature control. Blended fabrics can be interwoven fabrics, the ironing temperature selection should be low not high, that is, according to which the worst heat-resistant fiber ironing temperature to determine. Clothing ironing temperature selection should also take into account the texture of the thickness and color and other factors. Thick, the ironing temperature can be appropriately higher; thin, the ironing temperature is lower. Easy to change the color of the ironing temperature should be appropriately reduced.

Moisture content is usually ironed on the garment to sprinkle some water or pad a layer of wet cloth, in order to facilitate the lubricating effect of water molecules, so that the fiber wetting, expansion and stretching, faster into the predetermined arrangement of the position in the heat of the role of stereotypes. Quercus silk clothing generally can not spray water, otherwise easy to appear water stains printed Velcro clothing can not spray water, and should not be padded with a wet cloth ironing, usually pad dry cloth ironing, because Velcro in the wet state by the high temperature will be contracted, or even melted.

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