What are the "thirteen absolutely cold foods" in old Beijing?

In Tomb-Sweeping Day, where spring is bright and everything is reviving, old Beijingers like to go out for an outing, clean up and worship, and they also like a festival very much, because they can't eat a lot of delicious food in this festival, which is the "Cold Food Festival". Cold Food Festival, also known as "Smoke-free Festival", "Cold Food Festival" and "Hundred Days Festival", is from winter to the future 105, that is, only one or two days away from Tomb-Sweeping Day. Later, Tomb-Sweeping Day and the Cold Food Festival were unified and called Tomb-Sweeping Day.

When it comes to the Cold Food Festival, we have to mention the thirteen most popular cold foods in old Beijing. Among the customs of cold food festivals all over the country, thirteen kinds of cold food unique to old Beijing are the most representative. So, what are the thirteen unique cold foods?

1. Ginger slices

Sliced ginger fork, also known as ginger juice fork, ginger crisp fork and honey fork. It is not only a traditional snack in Beijing, but also a variety of Beijing tea, which is named after its fresh ginger flavor. Its biggest feature is crisp, sweet and fragrant. "Nanlaishun" ginger fork 1997 was rated as "Beijing Famous Snack" and "Chinese Famous Snack".

2. Centralization

Inby is a special fried food in old Beijing, which is about the size of a bowl and looks like a western-style doughnut. Inby is characterized by deep yellow color, crisp aroma, unique flavor and long shelf life. It is usually served with bean juice, which is a Beijing snack.

3. Pea yellow

Pea yellow is a traditional snack in Beijing. According to Beijing custom, pea yellow is eaten on the third day of the third lunar month. There are two kinds of pea yellow in Beijing: palace and folk. The same characteristics are: light yellow color, delicate and pure, which melts at the entrance.

Turn the screw

It's a kind of pasta. The skin is very thin noodles and it feels crisp. The biggest feature of screw knob is sweet and crisp. In the past, snack bars often turned over the screws that could not be sold that day and dried them with small fire before selling them. When they are dried in the sun, they are called "dry cooking".

5. prickly heat twist

Scorpion twist is a fine snack in Beijing, which is deeply loved by old Beijingers because of its crisp texture, sweet and delicious taste. In ancient times, it was called "ring cake" and "cold vessel", not the name. It is said that it first existed in the Warring States Period, and has become a must-eat food in the Cold Food Festival since the Qin and Han Dynasties.

6. Hard noodles.

This is a kind of baking flour mixed with sugar, the size of sesame cake. Chewy, slightly sweet and fragrant, you can break it off with your hands. Hard pastry is a kind of pasta served in old Beijing in the evening, which is sold by street vendors. It is rare after liberation. Almost no one could cook it in the 1980s and 1990s, and this kind of snack was basically out of stock.

7. Cream fried cake

Among many snacks in Beijing, fried cake with cream is a kind of nutritious snack. Its biggest feature is that it is tender in the outside, rich in flavor and easy to digest.

8. sesame paste sesame seed cake

This is a snack with northern characteristics, which can be seen in almost all streets and alleys in Beijing today. Its biggest feature is that it tastes crisp, layered, soft and delicious after eating.

9. Saqima

It is a kind of food for Manchu people, which means "dog milk dipped in sugar" in Manchu. The main method is to fry the noodles and mix them into small pieces with sugar. Shaqima is popular because of its beige color and soft taste.

10. Love me.

Aiwowo can be eaten all year round, regardless of season, just like sesame paste sesame cake. Its biggest characteristics are white color, spherical shape and soft texture.

1 1. Scroll around.

Among many snacks in Beijing, it is one of the oldest varieties. Made of soybean, glutinous rice flour and red bean paste, the finished products are yellow, white and red.

12. Sugar ear

Honey twist, also known as "twist", is a famous snack in Beijing. It is named because it looks like a human ear. Sugar ear is suitable for eating in spring, autumn and winter. Its biggest feature is bright brown butter, which is sweet and delicious.

13. Tanghuoshao

Originally a snack from Hebei, it was introduced to Beijing, and after evolution and improvement, it became a snack in Beijing, which is one of the breakfasts that Beijingers often eat.

Nowadays, many delicacies in the Thirteen Incense can be seen everywhere in the streets, but the "hard flour cake" has lost its trace and is on the verge of extinction. In recent years, some folklore experts suggested that these 13 kinds of traditional cold food should be "packaged" as soon as possible to avoid breaking the inheritance.

Tomb-Sweeping Day is coming soon, and Tomb-Sweeping Day is also called the Cold Food Festival, because it pays attention to three days without firing fire to pay homage to ancestors, and only eats some cold food. Therefore, in the past, old Beijing families would prepare all kinds of snacks as food for the Cold Food Festival the day before, which gradually evolved into thirteen unique cold foods in old Beijing. Nowadays, some snacks that are extinct in cold food are not common.

Mati sesame seed cake

It is named after a horseshoe and has a long history. It is said that it was quite famous during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. In the past, there were two thin layers of cake crust, the middle of which was hollow, but now it is rarely eaten.

Snails turn to children for help.

The outside is as thin as a thread, crisp and delicious, and the flour and sesame sauce are very delicious.

Sazi dough twists

The famous Muslim snacks in Beijing are said to have existed as early as the Warring States period and have a long history. Since the Qin and Han dynasties, it has become one of the snacks that must be eaten at the Cold Food Festival.

Ginger fork

It is also one of the traditional snacks in Beijing. Most of them are salty at present.

Rolling donkeys, Beijing snacks

This snack in old Beijing is suitable for all ages, also called bean powder cake. As for why it is called snowballing, it should be a more vivid metaphor. After finishing, you need to roll in the soybean, just like a donkey rolling on the ground and raising dust, hence the name. I have to admire the naming art of old Beijing, haha. Rolling on donkeys is still very common and popular now. The soft waxy skin is wrapped in bean stuffing, which is sweet and delicious.

Tanghuoshao

As a traditional snack of Manchu, it is also quite popular and has a history of more than 300 years.

Steamed cake/steamed bread with sweet stuffing made of glutinous rice

Also known as Jiangmi Tuaner, it is white and decorated with red. It looks soft and soft, and there are sweet fillings in it. It is really delicious.

Candy roll

The combination of yam and jujube makes people who don't like yam fall in love with this way of eating, and it also has nourishing effect together with peach kernel and melon seeds.

Donaldo

This sweet honey twist is also super delicious, so it's named because it looks like an ear. Bright and moist in color, dense and soft, it was once the most famous one in Nanlaishun.

Wandou cake

Pea yellow is divided into folk and court, which is said to be the favorite of Empress Dowager Cixi. Its texture is soft and delicate, and it is quite delicious.

Centripetal

Inby, shredded pickles with bean sauce can be said to be the favorite standard for old Beijingers. Inby is crispy and full of satisfaction with a bite.

Hard flour cake

Cookie-sized fire, if chewy, will not feel hard, slightly sweet and slightly fragrant, but it is more complicated to make and difficult to eat now.

Sesame paste sesame seed cake

Sesame paste biscuits are also very popular in traditional snacks. Nowadays, you usually eat one hot pot and sheep scorpion, which tastes crispy and delicious.

Beijing, the capital with a history of more than 3000 years and 860 years, has a profound food culture, among which the Thirteen Dishes of Cold Food is one. But there are quite a few versions of the last thirteen. There are only well-documented versions, such as shredded ginger, inby, sugar roll, hard flour cake, Aiwowo, pea yellow, screw turn, scorpion twist, horseshoe sesame seed cake, snowballing usury, honey twist (sugar ear), sugar fire, cream fried cake, sesame sauce sesame seed cake-you see, this is it.

Cold food is cold food. Generally speaking, its origin can be traced back to the legend of banning fire in memory of mesons being pushed to death by mountain fires. However, according to the research of folklore experts, thirteen unique cold foods were actually formed in the Qing Dynasty, that is, thirteen Beijing snacks. There is a life-oriented explanation that seems to be more real: it is spring, and the stove that has been used for a winter needs cleaning and maintenance, preparing some snacks and cold food, and getting through the days of the stove.

Common varieties include snowballs, etc. The reason why it is called "unique" is actually the homonym of "festival", while "thirteen" means "perfection" plus "three stars of happiness, wealth and longevity", which is why it has such an auspicious name. Of course, thirteen unique cold foods that seem simple need more attention. For example, although there are as many as thirteen varieties, according to the old ceremony, you must eat ginger and forks first-there is a reason for health preservation: spring is cold and warm, which is cold food. Eat ginger first to achieve the effects of expelling wind, warming stomach and helping yang.

I remember Sun Jinsong, director of the Cultural Committee of Xicheng District, said: Thirteen kinds of unique cold food seem to have been systematically excavated by the snacks of Huguo Temple in Huatian. In recent years, with people's growing enthusiasm for traditional culture, more and more people are willing to participate in intangible protection activities. Every time volunteers are recruited, the number of applicants exceeds the standard by several times. Xicheng Intangible Heritage Protection Center often holds activities, arranges the inheritors of thirteen characteristic cold dishes, and holds 24-hour live lectures for volunteers to introduce this food culture and teach some cooking skills. Therefore, it is not difficult to learn these thirteen kinds of delicious food.

Again, it's a leak Welcome to make bricks. Cheng sheng

Speaking of cold food, we have to mention the Cold Food Festival, the specific date is 105 days after the winter solstice, about one or two days from Qingming.

As for the origin of the Cold Food Festival, it is said that it is to commemorate the death of Jiezitui. On this day, it is forbidden to make a fire and eat cold meals as a souvenir.

In fact, there are some cold food customs everywhere, but the old Beijing cold food custom, which is known as the "Thirteen Unique Cold Foods", may be more representative.

Then, let's take a look at what delicious food is included in the "Thirteen Cold" in old Beijing with Jian Zhijun.

1, ginger fork

This is actually all kinds of tea. When Manchu people hold a banquet, it is customary to serve tea and tea food first, then cold meat, hot dishes, sweets, soup and so on.

Step 2: Hard noodles

Describe it as a kind of baked flour mixed with sugar, which is as big as a sesame seed cake. The taste is slightly sweet, the bite is strong, and the slag will fall off when you break it by hand.

3. Centralization

I believe this kind of food should be familiar to everyone. Shaped like a bracelet, crispy, best served with bean juice. However, you should eat less greasy food like this.

4. Candy roll

Unique Muslim holiday food, with yam and jujube as the main raw materials, has nourishing function and is also a medicinal diet.

5, pea yellow

According to Beijing custom, you should eat pea yellow on the third day of the third lunar month. Therefore, whenever pea yellow is listed in spring, it will be supplied until the end of spring.

5. Love me.

It is available all year round. It was originally called "Royal Ai Wo Wo" and was introduced to people in the Ming Dynasty.

6, horseshoe sesame seed cake

Two layers of thin skin, hollow inside, shaped like horseshoe, can be eaten with some things, very delicious.

7. Snail turns around

Named for its similar shape, it is made by rolling and baking sugar on the water. Crispy outside and soft inside, sweet taste.

8, prickly heat twist

In ancient times, it was called "ring cake" and "cold vessel", and the entrance was as crisp as Ling Xue.

9. Scroll around

Bean powder cake, also known as snowballing usury, takes soybeans as the main raw material and is rolled in soybeans, which looks like snowballing usury raising dust, hence the name.

10, honey twist

Also known as sugar ear, it is named because it looks like a human ear.

1 1, sugar fire

Everyone in old Beijing knows that there are three treasures in Tongzhou, one of which is the sugar fire in Dashunzhai. It is said that foreign dignitaries visiting in the 1960s specially brought it back to China.

12, sesame paste biscuit

This is very common, no need to explain, just look at the picture.

13, cream fried cake

Cream fried cake is round, tender outside, rich in flavor, rich in nutrition and easy to digest.