Introduction to Song Dynasty Costumes Characteristics of Song Dynasty Costumes

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Song Dynasty costumes Song Dynasty (960-1279) Song Dynasty was established in 960 AD, the unification of the social situation brought about the economic prosperity of the Song Dynasty. The basic state policy of "laying down the military and repairing the culture" gradually made Cheng-Zhu science dominant, and under the domination of this thought, people's aesthetic concepts also changed accordingly, and the dress began to advocate frugality and simplicity, and attached importance to following the tradition of simplicity and rationality became the main features of the Song Dynasty dress. "Crown comb" women (Song people "Nyonya Zhang's picture") through the sky crown clothing Song dynasty through the sky crown clothing, including cloud dragon pattern crimson gauze robe, white gauze in the single (shirt), square heart curved collar (a kind of round on the bottom, set in the neck of the lock-shaped decorations, used to prevent the collar yong up, play the role of the role of the pressure sticker, there is a round sky and earth symbol), crimson gauze skirt, gold and jade belts, (hanging in front of the axe-shaped decorative piece), wear ribbon, white socks and black shoes, the crown of the sky and so on. It is a kind of official dress second only to the coronation dress. The emperor wearing the crown of Tongtian, the reddish-red robe, and the square-centered curved collar (The Portraits of Emperors and Kings Throughout the Ages, old collection of the Nanxun Hall), and the black slippers (based on documentary records and the restoration of the Portraits of Emperors and Kings Throughout the Ages, old collection of the Nanxun Hall), the Queen's Ceremonial Garments The Empress wore ceremonial ceremonial ceremonial garments on the major ceremonial occasions such as her investiture, the imperial court and so on. Ceremonial gowns are one-piece garments with a top and a bottom that symbolize a woman's emotional devotion. It is accompanied by a gorgeous nine-dragon and four-fungus crown with 12 flower branches of various sizes and two leaf-shaped ornaments on the left and right sides of the crown, known as the Bo temples or cover the temples. Emperor Coronation Figure / Empress Queen's Ceremonial Clothes Figure (from Nie Chongyi's "Three Rites of Passage") Empress wearing a dragon and phoenix bead and emerald crown, wearing a ceremonial gown (Nanxun Hall of the old collection of the "successive emperors and kings statues") Turban Turban was very popular in the Song Dynasty, when turban lined with wooden bones and covered with lacquered gauze, flat and beautiful.

The form of the foot of the turban is mostly straight, i.e., the two feet are flat and stretched outward. In addition, there are also cross-footed turban and Chaotian foot turban, cross-footed is two feet cocked at the back of the cap and cross each other turban; Chaotian foot is two feet in the back of the cap on both sides of the direct cocked and intersecting turban. The emperor wearing a straight-footed turban (Nanxun Hall old collection of the Emperor's Statues through the Ages) Scholar wearing a scarf and a robe shirt (Song Dynasty "Songyin Discourse on Taoism" partial) The emperor wearing a hair-binding crown and a lapel shirt with an official wearing a turban (Zhao Ji "Listening to the Qin" partial) Civilian official wearing a soft-footed turban and a round-necked robe shirt (Zhao Ji "Listening to the Qin" partial) The dorsal of the Song Dynasty was a style of garment that featured long sleeves, a long body, and armpit without slits, that is, the front and back of the clothes were not sewn together in the armpits. The back of the Song Dynasty was a style of clothing with long sleeves, a long body, and no slits in the armpits. Imitating the form of ancient clothing, the back of the dress was decorated with straps under the armpits and behind the back to show that "tradition is not forgotten". It was named "backiko" because the maids of honor often wore it to stand behind their masters. Wear the back of the noblewoman (Song people "Yaotai step moon figure") wear back of the actress (Song people "miscellaneous drama figure") Taiyuan City, Jin Temple of the Virgin Mary Hall of the Northern Song Dynasty colorful statue of maidservants, combed buns, wearing a shirt dress, back of the skirt skirt of the Song Dynasty, six, eight, twelve of the form of the skirt, the same characteristics of the folded tucks a lot of ****. Skirt decoration is more colorful, there are painted, there are dyed val, there are for pin gold embroidery, there are decorated with pearls ...... skirt color to tulip root dyed yellow is the most noble; there are also red skirt, is worn by the Kabuki; and colorful pomegranate skirt is the most prestigious. Wearing a narrow-sleeved short jacket of the courtesan (Shanxi Taiyuan Jinshi Temple of the Virgin Mary color sculpture) wearing a jacket, draped in silk of the courtesan (Shanxi Taiyuan Jinshi Temple of the Virgin Mary color sculpture) insert hairpins hairpin, wearing a jacket, draped in silk of the women (Song "consort bathing child figure") Crowns decorations of the Song Dynasty, the crowns of the noblewomen, in the inheritance of the previous generation of the high crowns, crowns of flowers, the crowns on top of the basis of the shape of the crowns more and more taller, and the more richly decorated.

One of the crown height of up to 1 meter, the crown width and shoulder flush. After the crown often have four corners down to the shoulder, the top of the crown is decorated with gold, silver, beads and emeralds, colorful flowers, tortoiseshell combs and so on. Wear this tall crown sitting in a sedan chair, must be sideways head to enter the sedan chair door. Wear phoenix crown, wear shirt and skirt, hanging tassel women (Shanxi Yongle Palace Sanqing Hall mural) flower child Tang Dynasty flower inlay to the Song Dynasty will be called "flower child", which is in the forehead and cheeks pasted on the gold or colored paper cut into the pattern. The back of the flower is coated with the glue produced in the Liao Shui area, and it can be pasted at will with a mouthful of hoo-hoo. Wear flower crown of the Song dynasty women (the old collection of Nanxun Hall, "Dynasties Emperor and Empress Figure" partial) hair bun Song dynasty women popular high bun. The name of the chignon is many, there are Longrui chignon, Banana chignon, Chaotian chignon, big disk chignon and so on. Young girls usually wore double-ringed buns, in which the hair was combed into a hollow ring, hanging down by the ear. People often add wig in the hair when combing makeup, or directly installed fake bun, bun around the ring of green cui, tied to colorful fabrics, between the jade hairpin or fixed with a silk net. Porcelain figurines unearthed from Song tombs in Jingdezhen, Jiangxi Province, with a single bun, a large comb, and beads and crocodiles as ornaments in the Hall of Our Lady of the Jin Temple in Taiyuan City, Northern Song Dynasty, Yuanyou two years (1087 A.D.), colorful statues of maids of honor. Due to the influence of ethnic minority costumes, the Song 襦裙 sash form can be left or right; in the middle of the skirt band often hangs a jade ring ornament - "Jade Ring Ribbon", used to hold down the skirt width, so that the skirt in the human body movement does not flutter in the wind and lose the elegant and dignified manners. Elegant and dignified manners. Rural women wearing 襦襦 skirt (Song "Meng mother teaching children") wearing long-sleeved 襦襦 Song women (Chongqing Dazu Song dynasty stone carvings) people's clothing Song dynasty social life has been very rich, all kinds of status of people, from the official, traders, doctors, peasants, carters, monks and Taoists, to the scholar, boatmen, artists ...... in the dress of the difference.

There were those who wore robes and shirts, and those who wore backs; those who wore buns and those who wrapped scarves; those who were more neatly organized and those who were more casual. Laboring women in pants (Part of Wang Juzheng's Spinning Wheel) Song Taiping Street Scene, now at the Art Institute of ChicagoSong Taiping Street Scene, now at the Art Institute of ChicagoThree-inch Golden LotusThree-inch Golden Lotus refers to the small shoes worn by women after foot-binding. The Song Dynasty was a period when the style of foot-binding gradually developed and flourished, and the form of the three-inch golden lotus was gradually enriched. Foot-binding women (Song people "searching for the mountains" partial) armor armor in the Song Dynasty, including helmet, armor, shoulders, hanging legs and other parts of the basic form is inherited from the Tang Dynasty armor style and some slight changes. After the Southern Song Dynasty, because of the development of gunpowder weapons, armor was gradually eliminated. Wearing armor of the warrior (Dunhuang Mogao Caves Cave 55 color sculpture) wearing helmets and hats, wearing armor of the warrior (Song people "San Gu Cao Lu Figure" partial), "the General Summary of the Martial Arts" compiled by the Song dynasty armor pattern (from the Ming engraved version of the "Martial Arts Zhi") pattern by the influence of the painting of flowers and birds, the Song dynasty dress pattern composition neat, realistic, and the Tang dynasty style has been very different. Typical ones are: the combination of the eight hops of the halo; the floral motif of the Ruyi peony; the animal motif of the lion and the heavenly horse; and the geometric motif of the tortoise and the square victory, etc. The Song dynasty costume patterns were influenced by the sketched flower and bird paintings. The floral decoration "One Year View", which mainly focuses on sketching flowers and combining the flowers of the four seasons of the year, has the most far-reaching influence on the later generations. Fuzhou, Southern Song Dynasty Huang Sheng tomb unearthed a year of flowers ribbon and double phoenix pattern gold pendant Jiangxi De'an Southern Song Dynasty Zhou's tomb unearthed folded tea flower pattern bright veil.