Vietnam guyun traditional Doudou decoration

The earliest clothing should have originated from labor. According to legend, the image of Emperor Yan Shennong in ancient times is: dressed in red, wearing something similar to an armband on his arm, wearing leggings on his calf, wearing a bird feather hat, making shoes with leather on his feet and holding farm tools, just like a portrait of a farmer. Legend has it that ordinary people don't wear feather hats, but wear pointed hats or cylindrical high hats. The legendary image description may come from the analysis of some images in unearthed cultural relics; But it is incredible that there is no record in prehistoric times, so it may also be due to the speculation of future generations.

In ancient times, clothes began to appear in the period of Huangdi and Yaoshun, ending the prehistoric state of wearing clothes. People wear this style of clothes to worship their ancestors and heaven and earth. People know from experience that before dawn in the morning, the sky is dark (called "Xuan") and the coat is like the sky, so it is dark black; The ground is yellow, and the lower part is like the ground, so it is yellow, indicating the worship of heaven and earth. In ancient times, tops and bottoms represented the styles of clothing, and there was a "deep clothing system" which connected tops and bottoms. At that time, there was no difference between men and women.

Weijin clothes

Although the Wei and Jin Dynasties maintained the basic form of the Han Dynasty, they had unique and outstanding characteristics in style, which was closely related to the creative ideas of artworks and handicrafts at that time, and the identity of their styles was obvious.

Persian patterns were introduced into China through the Silk Road in the 6th century A.D., which had a great influence on textiles, clothing and other decorations at that time. This is reflected in Dunhuang murals.

During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, it was stipulated that the palace, China and Korea should take red and often purple. White serves ordinary people. At this time, the dress style is still dominated by skirts and dresses, and autumn is informal dress. Women's decorations are exquisite, such as gold rings, silver fingers and jumping around their wrists. There is still a big difference between the texture inside and outside the palace.

The most common form of armor in Wei and Jin Dynasties was two crotch armor, knee-length. Above the waist, it is the breastplate. Some are made of small armor pieces, and some are made of whole large armor pieces. The armor is divided into two pieces, and the shoulders and sides are tied with straps. There are circular shields on the chest and back. Because most of them are made of copper, iron and other metals, and polished into aurora, quite like a mirror. Wearing "bright armor" on the battlefield will give off dazzling "light" because of the sun's irradiation, so it is called this. There are many styles of this kind of armor, and the complexity is also different. Some only add two round guards at the front and back of the crotch, some are equipped with shoulder pads and knee pads, and the complicated one is heavy shoulder pads. Most of the bulletproof vests grow to the hips, and the waist is tied with a belt.

Southern and Northern Dynasties clothes

During the Southern Dynasties, skirts were the main style of dress, and women, especially women wearing skirts, were orthodox. It is considered impolite to show your pants without wearing a skirt. At that time, the woman wore a white silk scarf on her head (a blue ribbon headscarf, which was said to have been worn by Zhuge Liang during the Three Kingdoms period), with long and narrow sleeves and a wisp of carved flowers. Dancers wear robes, long belts and ten thousand towels on their heads.

In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, there were also "robes" and "shirts", and shirts were a necessary costume in the Jin Dynasty. "Qiu" is extremely precious at this time, especially mink. "It is teenagers' favorite clothes, and superficial teenagers prefer colored clothes", "Yan", "Bi" and "Crane", which are all popular clothes at this time.

The Southern Dynasties basically inherited the Wei and Jin Dynasties. Due to the frequent changes in wars and countries, clothing has also changed. Clothes in the south of the Yangtze River are shorter than those in the north, but at that time it was popular to wear small hats and coats. Sometimes, a sleeve is split in two and a skirt is cut into two skirts. Some styles have big collars and belts, some have narrow sleeves, some have long skirts that mop the floor, and some have long skirts that cover their feet. In the Southern Dynasties, the imperial costume was still mysterious. There are regulations on the materials used in clothing. People below the third grade officer are not allowed to wear variegated clothes, and those below the sixth grade officer can only wear colorful clothes, and gauze is not allowed. The artistic works of the Southern Dynasties are in the same strain as the clothing styles. Many unearthed pottery figurines show us a woman with a thin waist and a round face, and her facial features are very beautiful, especially the pottery figurines in the south of the Yangtze River, which are in harmony with mopping the floor and taking off the coat straps.

During the Northern Dynasties, officials wore red light clothes on formal occasions, so that uniforms and uniforms were the mainstay. Wear a red robe with a gold belt and a small sleeve gown with a gold belt. Ordinary women take coats as official uniforms, just like the Southern Dynasties. In the Northern Dynasties, silk brocade was the most luxurious clothing material.

The rolling grass pattern in the Southern and Northern Dynasties was developed on the basis of the moire pattern in the Han Dynasty. Dynamic images such as well drilling in Dunhuang (suitable for patterns alone), triangle flower (suitable for patterns), strip flower (continuous in two directions), flying and moire are skillfully combined, which are concise, beautiful and implicit. Wool carpets, linen and silk were all popular products at that time.

Xizhou clothes

With the establishment of the Western Zhou Dynasty, the social productive forces have greatly developed and improved, the material is obviously rich, and the social order has been organized and established. Due to the existence of hierarchy and the need of etiquette, the form of clothing has been further standardized, and it has been included in the category of "ruling the country by courtesy", which is different in terms of honor and inferiority.

At this time, the special boundary grade marks of clothing began to be clear, and the variety categories also increased accordingly, such as the special sacrificial dress in the palace when offering sacrifices to the gods and ghosts of heaven and earth, the court dress in the court ceremony, the military service dress, the wedding dress, the mourning dress and so on. Although the clothes are still yellow, a big belt (made of silk or silk with a width of four inches) and jade (made of jade with a ribbon around the waist) are added to the official clothes. In addition, clothing colors are also graded. In the Western Zhou Dynasty, in addition to the unique style of taking off the long ribbon of the coat, it also absorbed the clothes with hooks at the waist of Xianbei people (now Xibo people) in the north (thin hooks or buckles made of gold, silver, copper or iron at the connection of the ribbon).

Qin dynasty clothes

During the Qin and Han dynasties, due to the unification of the country, clothing styles tended to be consistent. The Qin Dynasty was the first feudal unified country with vast territory and numerous nationalities in the history of China. After Qin became Qin Shihuang, he immediately began to implement a series of measures to strengthen centralization, such as unified measurement, criminal laws and regulations, and so on, including the clothing system. However, due to Qin Shihuang's short ruling time, the clothing system is just beginning and incomplete, and only the colors of clothing are unified. Qin Shihuang was deeply influenced by the theory of Yin-Yang and Five Elements. He believes that Qin should be fire and water, because the Zhou Dynasty is "fire is better than gold, and color is still red", so Qin Shengzhou is a water virtue, and color advocates black. In this way, in the Qin Dynasty, black was a noble color, and clothing was also a fashionable color.

We can see the armor and battle clothes of the Qin Dynasty from the unearthed cultural relics. The armor worn by pottery figurines unearthed in Lintong, Shaanxi Province should be the most common armor style among Qin terracotta warriors and horses, and it is the costume of ordinary soldiers. This kind of armor has the following characteristics: the armor on the chest is pressed down by the upper piece, and the armor on the abdomen is pressed down by the lower piece, which is convenient for activities. Starting from the middle line of the chest and abdomen, all the nail plates are stacked from the middle to both sides, and the combination of the shoulder nail plates is the same as that of the abdomen. The nail plates around the shoulders, abdomen and neck are connected by nail belts. All nail plates have nails, and the number of nails varies from two to three to four, with no more than six at most. The length of armor is equal before and after, and the hem is generally round.

Han dynasty clothes

China's complete clothing system was established in the Han Dynasty. In the Han Dynasty, dyeing and weaving technology, embroidery technology and metal technology developed rapidly, which promoted the changes of clothing decoration.

When the Western Han Dynasty was established, it basically followed the clothing system of the Qin Dynasty. Wearing black clothes in the Eastern Han Dynasty must be accompanied by purple silk ornaments. The "long crown costume" is commonly used in sacrificial ceremonies. The queen's sacrificial clothes are: black on the top and soap on the bottom. The queen's silkworm suit is blue on the top and light green (light yellow) on the bottom. When Emperor Wendi was in power, he lived frugally and wore black silk clothes and leather shoes. Generally, officials should wear Zen clothes, which is also commonly known as "talent clothes". During the two hundred years of the Western Han Dynasty, clothing was mainly "deep clothing", which was characterized by cicada's wing crown (hat), red clothing, Tian Zi-style collar, jade and red shoes. The shape of the deep coat is to connect the lower half of the coat and sew it together to make the middle coat of the sacrificial clothing. As a royal coat, you need a red edge. At that time, it was common for men and women to wear the same clothes. Clothing is collectively called "Zen clothing". Zen clothing is a single coat. Zen clothes can be divided into medium clothes and deep clothes, and there is little difference between them in shape and Zen clothes, but the sleeves have changed, and they all belong to single-layer cloth and silk clothes. Officials should wear black Zen clothes in court.

The styles of Hanfu can be divided into two types according to the skirt: one is "Quchan clothing", that is, the skirt tilts from the collar to the armpit; One is a straight-pull Zen dress, which is vertical from the collar. This kind of Zen clothing is also called "Zen clothing". Qu Qu, that is, the deep clothes popular in the Warring States period. It was still used in the Han Dynasty. By the Eastern Han Dynasty, there were not many men wearing deep clothes, usually straight clothes, but they could not be used as formal clothes. This kind of clothing is long and wide, and there is basically no difference between the government and the people in style, but it can obviously show the grade difference in raw materials and colors.

The Han dynasty had specific regulations on the color of court clothes, which were worn at five o'clock all year round, that is, cyan was used in spring; Red in summer; Season and summer are yellow; White in autumn; It's black in winter.

Clothing in the Han Dynasty has seven characteristics:

When wearing a coat, because the collar is large and curved, it is necessary to show the collar shape of the middle coat when dressing;

Dressing must use white cloth;

The sleeves are one foot and two inches wide;

Sleeveless shirt;

When wearing fur coat, the fur is outward;

The belt is very elegant, and the hooks used are made of gold in various animal shapes, such as mantis or pipa. The image is very vivid and interesting. Generally, it is between one and a half inches and six inches in length, and it is a prominent ornament in the middle of clothes. Han band hooks have reached a high level in modeling, color and technology, and are much more exquisite in design and production than in the Western Zhou Dynasty and the Warring States Period. So it is very popular with men and wears a lot;

Men keep the custom of wearing knives, but the knives they wear are tangible and bladeless, so they lose their practical value, mainly to show their appearance.

In the Han Dynasty, sacrificial clothing was extended to "Great Unity", following the ancient ceremony of wearing a crown dress and wearing a jade pendant. Emperors, officials and princes all use large ones, but they only differ in the texture of the jade beads or silk threads to which they belong. Empress Dowager Cixi, Empress Dowager Cixi and Lady Komsomolsk's sacrificial clothes (temple clothes), silkworm clothes, court clothes and wedding clothes are all made of deep clothes.

In the Han dynasty, working women always wore short skirts and long skirts, and their knees were decorated with long pendants. Workers usually wear a raft, calf nose pants and a cloth skirt around their clothes. This kind of clothing is the same for slaves, serfs, businessmen and scholars.

Spring and Autumn Warring States Clothing

Due to years of war, various manners were gradually abolished during the Warring States period. Due to the limitation of local conditions, the costumes of the seven Warring States-Qi, Chu, Yan, Han, Zhao, Wei and Qin-also changed accordingly. From the painted wooden figurines unearthed in Changsha, Hunan Province in recent years, we can see the representative clothing characteristics at that time. At this time, the clothes wrapped around the lower body along the wide edge. Its winding is front winding and back winding, that is, horizontal lines and diagonal lines are used to complement each other in space to obtain the decorative effect of dynamic and static combination. Because the material is light and thin, in order to prevent thin clothes from being entangled, plain brocade fabric is used as the edge, and the edge is decorated with moire patterns, that is, "embroidered brocade edge", which skillfully combines practicality and aesthetics. These ideas and production methods fully reflect the wisdom and cleverness of ancient people's design. During the Warring States period, men wore knee-length clothes decorated with continuous rectangular patterns and stripes, which were very similar to the edge decoration of lacquerware vessels at that time.

Men's wear is dominated by cross collars, narrow sleeves and belts. During the Warring States period, hooks were mostly made of gold, silver, copper, iron and jade. The hooks are engraved with patterns and sometimes inlaid with turquoise to show dignity and wealth. There is also the manual craft of gold and silver dislocation. After the stone is processed, its appearance is more exquisite and luxurious. During the Warring States period, the iron smelting industry was relatively developed, and copper knives hanging on people could be made. The craftsmanship is also excellent, such as a small curved knife with a length of 25 cm. The back of the knife is engraved with various patterns, which was widely loved and worn by people at that time and was called "Rong Dao". At this time, the hanging knife is not completely practical, and the decoration has largely replaced the practicality.

Shang dynasty clothes

In ancient China, characters began to appear in the Yin and Shang Dynasties. At that time, most of the characters were hieroglyphs, even pictures. From Oracle Bone Inscriptions, we can see clothes, shoes, Huang Shang, belts, dresses and other words that reflect clothes. From the unearthed figures, we can see Yu Pei, Yuhuan, earrings, necklaces, combs, silk, linen and bronze ornaments, and distinguish exquisite ornaments from elegant clothes, but these are all owned by nobles. It shows that clothing and clothing system are being further improved.

The appearance of clothing shapes such as clothes, skirts, crowns, shoes, hats and socks shows that people's understanding of clothing is also increasing day by day, and gradually develops from simple practical function to decorative embellishment, thus making ancient clothing tend to be complete and unified.

garment of traditional Chinese style

In the Tang Dynasty, it was also very popular for women to wear "Khufu". "Khufu" is the costume of western people. The form of the belt is also deeply influenced by Khufu. Before this, people's waist ornaments were made of gold, silver, copper and iron. At this time, "water belt" with gold ornaments was popular, and the belt for tying things was short and small. This kind of belt was the most popular in the Tang Dynasty and lasted until the Northern Song Dynasty.

After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the influence of Khufu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's clothes became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, aristocratic dresses were usually worn on important occasions. Wearing this kind of clothes, there are golden flowers in the hair, so it is also called "women's gift clothes".

After Tang Gaozong, purple is the representative color of military officials; Light scarlet is the color of five official uniforms, dark green is the color of six official uniforms, light green is the color of seven official uniforms, dark blue is the color of eight official uniforms, light blue is the color of nine official uniforms, and yellow is the color of outsiders and ordinary people.

Tang suit also has a great influence on neighboring countries. For example, Japan Heshun absorbed the essence of Tang costume to a great extent in color, and Korean costume also inherited the advantages of Tang costume in form. The lines of the Tang suit are long and soft, which is very beautiful and comfortable. The material used is mainly silk, so its clothes are famous for their softness and softness. The Tang costume itself is varied and varied. It boldly absorbs the characteristics of foreign costumes from appearance to decoration, and draws lessons from foreign costumes in Central Asia, India, Iran, Persia, North China and the Western Regions, enriching the costume culture of the Tang Dynasty, making it colorful and unique, and becoming a wonderful work in China's historical costumes, attracting worldwide attention.

Song dynasty clothes

The main trend in the history of the Song Dynasty is the popularization of civilians, and the costumes are also simple and simple, reflecting the trend of the times.

There are three kinds of women's dresses in the Song Dynasty: one is the "official dress" used by queens, imperial concubines and maids at all levels, and the other is the "dress" used by ordinary people for good or ill luck; A daily uniform.

Song clothes inherited Tang clothes, and women's clothes are still dominated by shirts, coats, backs, skirts, robes, coats and deep clothes. Most of them are straight-collared and double-breasted, without shoulder straps and buttons, and the collar is sewn on the outer edge of the neckline. The sleeves of these clothes are connected together. Some are limited by the width of cloth, so seams and welts are used to decorate the back or sleeves of clothes. Single coats have styles of short front and long back, and sleeveless vests. Unearthed clothes are wrapped or embroidered with decorative patterns at the collar, sleeves, lapels, waist and hem, and decorated with peony, camellia, plum blossom and lily by bronzing, embroidery and painting.

The official system in Song Dynasty basically followed the previous generation, so the official clothes in the palace were similar to those in the previous generation, which were divided into royal clothes, sacrificial clothes, official clothes, military uniforms, mourning clothes and seasonal clothes. The royal dress is a red red dress with a white silk inside and a big silk belt outside. Covered with crimson silk over the knee, there are brocade, jade, jade bracelets, white stockings and black shoes. In addition to this unified style, the level of official position is also distinguished by the different collocation. Mainly in the presence of Zen clothes (single) and patterns on brocade. You must wear "Golden Fairy Crown" (a kind of painted beam crown hat), "The Story of Losing Sim Crown" (also known as "cage towel", which is a crown hat made of rattan with patterns painted on it) and "Xi Fairy Crown".

Public service is a regular service, also known as "provincial service", which is mainly in the form of curved collar and belt waist, and has a narrow sleeve style. This kind of clothing is graded by color. For example, blue is used for Q9 officials and above; Seven grade officials and above use green; Cinnabar is used for five officials or above; Purple is used for third-class officials and above. During the Song and Yuan Dynasties, the color changed slightly, and purple was used for more than four products. More than six products are scarlet; Use green for grade nine or above. According to the regulations at that time, people wearing purple (scarlet) clothes should be equipped with fish bags decorated with gold and silver to clearly distinguish between high and low.

Seasonal clothes are clothes for officials and ministers according to the season. From the emperor's generals to the guards, the varieties given are robes, coats, shirts, robes, pants and so on. Most of the clothes given are embroidered with birds and animals.

In the Song Dynasty, in addition to men's official uniforms, South Korea's usual uniforms were also very distinctive, also called "private servers". There is not much difference between Song officials and ordinary people in the form of Yanju clothing. Only there are obvious rules and restrictions on the use of colors.

There are the following kinds of uniforms in the Song Dynasty:

There are two kinds of robes: wide sleeves and narrow sleeves and narrow sleeves. Those with official positions are brocade robes, while those without official positions are white robes.

"Yan" and "coat" are clothes that ordinary people must wear every day.

"Short brown" is a short and thick cloth, which is for the poor.

"Shirt" is a kind of men's gown with a horizontal hem.

"Clothes" followed the ancient system of dressing under clothes. It is the style of coronation dress, court dress or private house dress. There was also a way to wear a coat under a petticoat in the Song Dynasty. Men also wear long coats with black frills on their collars and Huang Shang on them. Stay at home without a belt, and wear a belt when entertaining guests.

"Straight tube" is a wide long dress. It is called "straight hem" because there is no slit at the hem and a middle seam at the back.

"Crane", wide and long, is a kind of fur made of crane hair and other birds' hair, which is of great value.

In addition, men's clothing in the Song Dynasty also includes cloth shirts and Luo shirts. It is called an undershirt for internal use, and it has the form of cross collar and jaw collar. The materials used are very elegant, and satin, yarn and yarn are mostly used. Colors are white, blue, soap (black), apricot yellow, dark brown and so on. This coat is made of cloth, silk, silk, brocade, silk and leather. Coat colors are blue, red, bordeaux, dark green, goose yellow and so on. The quality of aristocratic trousers is also very particular, mostly based on yarn, yarn, silk, silk, crepe and twill, and decorated with plain weave, jacquard and small jacquard. Pants are mainly camel, brown and brown.

Yuan dynasty clothes

The Yuan Dynasty was an era of ethnic integration in China's history, and costumes also fully reflected this feature. Genghis Khan, the founding emperor of the Yuan Dynasty, founded the capital in 1206. After the destruction of Xixia and Jin, the ethnic composition was mainly Mongolian. In the Yuan Dynasty, the textile industry and handicraft industry were greatly damaged due to the sharp ethnic contradictions. The court dress system has long been extended to the Song Dynasty. It was not until Yuan Yingzong l32 1 that the ancient system was referred to and the system of "quality positive clothing" was formulated, which was called "monochrome clothing" or "quality positive clothing" by the Han people. This is a clothing system that inherits the Han nationality and has Mongolian characteristics.

"High-quality sun clothes" are widely used. Ministers can wear them at banquets in the palace, and musicians and guards can also wear them. The difference between the upper and lower layers of this kind of clothing is reflected in the difference in texture and thickness. The son of heaven has fifteen grades. The raw materials and colors used in each grade are completely unified, and the clothes and hats are consistent, and the overall effect is excellent. For example, if the clothes are cut into velvet, their hats must be warm hats; If the clothes are white leather, the hat must be a platinum warm hat. There are fifteen grades of summer clothes in Tian Zi, which are similar to winter clothes. There are nine grades in winter clothes and fourteen grades in summer clothes, which are also distinguished by texture and color.

"Side by side" and "armor to armor" are also uniforms. "Bijian" is a kind of leather coat with inside and outside, which is slightly longer than the coat. In the Yuan Dynasty, Mongolians called it "the answer of ignorance". Gaby is a kind of clothing that is easy to ride and shoot. Collarless and sleeveless, short in front and long in back, with snap connection. In the Yuan Dynasty, the official dress of men followed the custom of Han nationality, and it was also the custom of women to wear a short-sleeved shirt outside the official dress (called a half-arm skirt).

Women's wear in Yuan Dynasty was divided into two styles: noble and civilian. Most of the nobles are Mongolians, wearing fur coats and hats as national costumes. Mink and sheepskin are widely used in clothing, with wide robes, narrow cuffs and wide sleeves. Because the clothes are long and mop the floor, your wife must be led by a slave when she goes out to play. This robe has a cloud shoulder, the so-called "gold embroidered cloud shoulder jade tassel", which is very gorgeous. As a gown, the fabric texture is very elegant, using big red brocade, velvet and very long felt fabric. The most popular colors at that time were red, yellow, green, brown, rose, purple and gold. It was quite popular for civilian women to wear half-arm Han skirts in Yuan Dynasty. The appearance of Hanfu often appeared on the dancers in the palace, and the narrow sleeves and hats of the Tang Dynasty were also preserved. In addition, influenced by neighboring North Korea, aristocratic empresses in Beijing also have the custom of imitating Korean women's clothing.

Ming dynasty clothes

By the Ming dynasty, many new changes had taken place in clothing. The most prominent feature is that the front button replaces the knot that has existed for thousands of years. But buttons didn't start in the Ming Dynasty, and the form of nailing buttons can be seen from the waistline of knitting coats in the Yuan Dynasty. The use of buttons is also a change, reflecting the progress of the times. In addition, the prevalence of Neo-Confucianism also affected the clothing style to some extent.

Compared with the Tang suit, the Ming suit is obviously inverted in the proportion of dresses, from the short coat to the long hem, the coat is gradually lengthened and the length of the exposed skirt is shortened. The collar has also changed from a pair of lapels in the Song Dynasty to a round neck.

In the Ming Dynasty, blouses were narrow sleeves with three collars, three feet long and two or three inches exposed skirts. At that time, a new style was popular in Yangzhou: blouses were 2' 8 "long, sleeves were 1 2" wide, sleeves were inlaid with splendid flowers, and mink fox skin was inlaid in winter. The skirts in the early Ming Dynasty were light in color. Skirt pleats are very popular, with thin pleats and large pleats. Folding decoration is very particular. There is a striped skirt, each of which is made of satin of the same color. Each piece of colored satin is embroidered with flowers and birds, and the edge of the belt is inlaid with gold thread, which can become an independent strip. When several such colored stripes are spliced on the belt, it becomes a striped skirt, hence the name "phoenix tail skirt". Some even hand-pleated the whole piece of satin and named it "pleated skirt", and there is a 24-pleated one named "Jade skirt". In the Ming Dynasty, there was a special hairpin named "Bi Xia" because its shape was as beautiful as rosy clouds. This scorpion appeared in the Southern and Northern Dynasties and got its name in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. In the Song Dynasty, it was included in the formal attire. It was widely used in the Ming Dynasty, and its shape was like a long colorful hanging belt. Each lower bar is 3 inches wide and 5 feet 7 inches long. Take it around your neck and hang it on your chest. Because there is a gold or jade pendant hanging at the lower end, it looks more noble.

There is a collarless double-breasted vest in Yuan Dynasty, also known as "Gaby", which is a special costume for the queen in the court. Later, it was gradually introduced to the people, expanding the scope of use. Gaby prevailed in the middle of Ming Dynasty and was mainly favored by young women. Formally, it is related to the half arm in Sui and Tang Dynasties. Later, the vest that appeared in the Qing Dynasty was the deformation of this armor.

Another feature of Ming-style clothing is that it is decorated with beautiful ornaments on the front, which is very eye-catching. They are all kinds of decorations made of gold, pearls, jade and other materials. Among them, the one hanging on the chest is called "falling collar"; The one tied in front is called "seven things"; Those who walk noisily are called "no walking", and these accessories are collectively called "miscellaneous accessories". Another special ornament is a gold chain with four small objects connected by rings: tweezers, toothpicks, ear gouges and a knife, which is a practical product for women's life.

Men's wear in Ming Dynasty is represented by square scarf and round neck, and the shirts worn by Confucian scholars are very similar to the costumes of Peking Opera literati on the stage today. It is characterized by wide sleeves, soap (black) edges, blue round neck and soft towel straps.

The official dress is a satin round neck robe and a satin coat. This robe is one inch from the ground, and the sleeves are too long. The sleeves are one foot wide and the cuffs are nine inches wide.

Paddy field dress is a common women's dress in Ming Dynasty. It is a kind of clothing made of various tapestries, which looks like a monk's cassock. Named after the color of the whole garment fabric interweaves like paddy fields. It has a special effect that other clothes do not have, and it is simple and unique, so it won the universal love of women in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is said that clothes in the Tang Dynasty were made in this way.

Qing dynasty clothes

The Qing Dynasty was a political institution dominated by Manchu rulers, and the customs and habits of Manchu banners influenced the Central Plains. The traditional dress system handed down from generation to generation for thousands of years was destroyed by the entry of the Eight Banners soldiers in Manchu Dynasty. It can be said that this change is another leap in China's traditional clothing system, and it is the third obvious mutation in history after "Khufu riding and shooting" and "opening a Tang suit".

For thousands of years, the long gown with wide robe and big sleeves is full crown, natural and unrestrained, rich and delicate, which is in sharp contrast with the full dress form with slender figure and short sleeves. Flag dress has replaced the complexity of ancient dresses because of its saving materials, simple production and convenient use, which is also the main reason why it is easily accepted by future generations.

Manchu flag dress, rectangular outline, saddle-shaped collar to cover cheeks, no waist up and down, no shirt exposed, two or three fake sleeves on the right side, horseshoe sleeves to cover hands, inlay ornaments, clothes and clothes, a vest or coat. Its shape is complete and rigorous, showing a closed box shape, so its image is solemn, lofty and unique, breaking through the elegance of tower-shaped clothing for thousands of years. Today, it also has a certain influence on modern clothing. Especially with the development of the times, cheongsam, with its slender and graceful curves, has formed the clothing representative of the Han nationality, showing the tenderness and connotation of oriental women, and has eternal value.

There are several different forms of cheongsam or shorts, such as pipa lapels, large lapels and double lapels. Matching skirts or trousers are decorated with printing, embroidery and sewing all over the floor. The front, collar and sleeves are decorated with inlays, piping and embroidery. In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women were similar to men in dress, the only difference was wearing ears and combing their hair, while unmarried women hung braids. Manchu women do not bind their feet or wear skirts. The vest outside is flush with the coat, and there is a small coat inside the gown, which is equivalent to a Chinese-style chest covering for Han women. The clothes outside are also called "Oolong".

Traditional national costumes-cheongsam and mandarin jacket

Mandarin jacket and cheongsam are typical clothes for men and women in Qing Dynasty. Now it has become a traditional costume in China.

A jacket is a short coat worn over a robe. The length of the jacket is umbilical, and the sleeves only cover the elbows, mainly for the convenience of riding, so it is called "jacket". When Manchu first entered the customs, it was only open to soldiers of the Eight Banners. It was not until the reign of Kangxi and Yongzheng that it became popular in the society, and it developed into clothes such as singles, clips, yarn, leather and cotton, which became men's plain clothes and could be worn by ordinary people. Later, it gradually evolved into a ceremonial costume. Regardless of identity, I wore a jacket outside my robe, which was elegant and generous.

There are three styles of mandarin jackets: pipa lapels, large lapels and double lapels. Pipa armour is also called short armour because of its lack of right armour. You can move freely when you wear it, and it is often used for luggage. A mandarin jacket with a big skirt, with the skirt spread out on the right side and different colors around it as the edge, is generally used as a uniform. Duijianzi, its clothing color has changed in different periods: at first it was cyan, at the middle of Qianlong period it was rose purple, and then it was crimson (called "Fucai"). During the Jiaqing period, clay gold and light gray were popular. Long-sleeved coats can be used as dresses instead of coats, and the color is mostly cyan. Officials of all sizes often wear this kind of clothes when paying customers. Because of its narrow sleeves, it is also called "long-sleeved coat".

There is one color in the coat that can't be used casually, and that is yellow. This yellow jacket is a special gift from the emperor. There are three main types of people who wear this kind of clothes: one is the bodyguard who "patrols" with the emperor, which is called "jacket on duty"; Second, when shooting around the wire, those who hit the target or get more prey are called "walking around the jacket"; Third, those who have made meritorious deeds in politics or war are called "martial arts jackets", and these people will go down in history. Only this royal jacket can be worn at any time

Cheongsam is a kind of women's dress with ethnic customs in China, which evolved from the robes of Manchu women. Because Manchu is called "Qiren", it is called "Qipao". In the Qing Dynasty, there were both Manchu and Han women's dresses. In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women mainly wore robes, while Han women still wore clothes and skirts as the fashion. In the middle of Qing dynasty, Manchu and Han followed suit; By the end of the Qing Dynasty, it was more and more popular for Manchu to imitate the Han nationality, and even there was a situation that "most of the flags were changed to Hanfu, and the palace robes were cut into short clothes", and the Han nationality imitated Manchu costumes, which became popular among some senior ladies at this time.

In the 1920s, influenced by western costumes, the improved cheongsam gradually became popular among women. This kind of cheongsam was introduced to thousands of households by Han women through continuous improvement after absorbing western clothing styles. There are many styles of cheongsam, such as wishful placket, pipa placket, inclined placket and double placket. There are high collar, low collar and no collar; The cuffs have long sleeves, short sleeves and sleeveless sleeves; There are high slits and low slits in the slits; There are also long cheongsam, short cheongsam, double cheongsam and single cheongsam. In 1930s, the improved cheongsam almost became the standard dress for women in China.