[Endless Jinan City] Sweet foam is not sweet.

As a pursuing foodie, I admit that my mouth is awkward in eating!

For example:

Soymilk must be original, without sugar;

When eating jiaozi, you must have vinegar and garlic;

Celery stir-fried celery must be blanched;

Eating pancakes and green onions must have sauce;

……

In Jinan, you must eat the local specialty oil swirl, and you must also mix it with sweet foam!

Sweet foam, also known as "spiced sweet foam", is an out-and-out "drinking head" of old Jinan. Fresh and excellent millet porridge, with red beans, cowpeas, peanuts, white vermicelli, bean curd skin, vegetables, salt, pepper, Jiang Mo, etc. Add a little sesame oil to make it fragrant, so it is thick and delicious, and it also nourishes the stomach.

Winter in the north is particularly cold, and Jinan is no exception. Every winter, in the streets and alleys of old Jinan, there will be signs that "old Jinan incense foam" shakes with the wind. In the morning, two fried dough sticks or a sesame seed cake with a bowl of steaming sweet foam is a hearty breakfast for office workers. Especially those old shops that call themselves "authentic sweet bubble inheritors" are crowded and hard to find.

When I first came to Jinan, I didn't know the name sweet foam. Why is it called sweet foam when it is not sweet? I often confuse sweet foam with hot soup. Later, I learned that there is a big difference between authentic Hu spicy soup and sweet foam.

Sweet foam is salty. A bowl of sweet foam, rich ingredients accompanied by thick porridge soup. After eating, it stays in the mouth for a short time, enters the stomach, and awakens the senses that have been sleeping all night. The pores of the whole body seem to have got the imperial edict, which suddenly opened and dispelled the cold, feeling very comfortable, refreshed and full of vitality.

Sweet foam and tea soup, also known as Quancheng Erguai, are the must-eat delicacies in Jinan, the famous brand flavor of old Jinan. "Tea soup is not tea, rice is more fragrant than tea. Sweet foam is not sweet, and it tastes fragrant. "

Tea soup is not as common as sweet foam in Jinan. I only occasionally go to a farmhouse in the southern mountainous area and see the powdered tea soup sold with mountain products, such as hawthorn, wild eggs and wild vegetables. It is convenient to eat with boiling water.

There have been many theories about the origin of the two monsters in Quancheng. One of them is related to King Dezhuang, the first generation king of Germany in the Ming Dynasty.

According to legend, during the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty, after Judy moved to Beijing, Guanglu Temple was used as a place of sacrifice. In order to pray for the country, Guanglu Temple developed a kind of porridge mainly made of millet, named tea soup, and gave each civil and military official a bowl at the memorial day, fearing heaven. In the first year of Tianshun in Ming Dynasty, Ming Yingzong cared about the second son, King Dezhuang, who was enfeoffed in Jinan, and ordered Guanglu Temple to spread this skill to Germany, and Germany's shy food officer was closely related to the Qin government, and spread many food skills to the Qin government, including the method of making tea soup. The master of the Qin government knew this truth and improved it. Adding ginger and pepper to millet flour evolved into spicy millet porridge, which is called sweet foam. Neighbors heard that there are two kinds of strange foods in Fu Qin, one is tea soup but not tea, and the other is sweet foam but not sweet. The "two eccentrics of spring city" began to spread for hundreds of years and became the present "old lady Qin" as a gift.

As an aspiring foodie, although I photographed Furong Street food all afternoon, I even forgot to eat, but I deeply believe that if I don't eat, I won't eat, and if I eat, I will eat the most authentic food. So it is more obvious that I dragged my tired legs to sweep the street all morning for a bowl of authentic Chongqing noodles. Sweet foam, naturally authentic.

The most famous sweet foam stand in Jinan is the famous "Sweet Foam Soup".

Founded in 198 1, "Sweet Foam Hall" has exquisite materials and authentic taste. It is deeply loved by old Jinan people, and almost every old Jinan person knows its sweet foam. Many people come all the way early in the morning just to eat a bowl of authentic food. Sweet foam Tang's sweet foam is full of materials, accompanied by tea eggs, horseshoe biscuits or old Jinan meat fire. No matter whether it is large, medium or small, it is always satisfying and rich in taste, especially in cold winter, drinking a bowl of hot food will make you feel much warmer.

Jinan's sweet foam has three unique skills, the first is the unique name:

Nine times out of ten people who don't know the name don't know what it is. Besides the legend of King Dezhuang, there are two common sayings about the origin of this name.

First, in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, there were years of wars and people were in dire straits. There is a porridge shop called Tian in Jinan, which often sends porridge to the victims. But there are few people in the porridge, so we often add some vegetable leaves and salty and spicy seasonings to the porridge. When the victims saw the foam in the porridge cauldron, they called it "Mo Tian" according to the owner's surname. A fallen scholar was so hungry that he thought it was "sweet foam" after eating it. Later, the scholar made a fortune and drank "sweet foam" here, which was not sweet at all, and suddenly realized that it was actually Tian foam, not "sweet foam". So he inscribed the tablet "Xiang Mo" and recited a poem: "I mistook Mo Tian for Xiang Mo because of the original history. After reading the vicissitudes of life, I am willing to work hard. "

Another way of saying it is that sweet foam was not called "sweet foam" at first, but spread by adding shredded noodles, vegetables, peanuts and seasonings when porridge was ready. Later, people refined it into "sweet foam" according to homophonic words.

Personally, I prefer the allusion of poor scholar.

Sweet bubble 2 must count its output:

Sweet foam, as a breakfast snack in Jinan, is a "stall" where you can't eat a big meal, but it is also very particular about making it. Top-grade sweet bubble should use authentic Longshan millet mill. When making, it is necessary to "pour the pot". First, the vermicelli, peanuts and cowpeas are cooked, and then the tofu skin and spinach are added. Season with salt, spiced noodles and pepper noodles; After the water boils, add the millet batter and stir while adding it. Finally, pour the oil of onion, ginger and aniseed into the porridge in advance and serve. The most important thing is to add water, because it is salty porridge, and the water must be added at one time, otherwise the sweet bubbles will be soaked. This amount depends entirely on the master's hand, which is the experience of cooking sweet bubbles from pot to pot.

I haven't personally seen the production process, but after all, all kinds of porridge are made from the countryside, which is easy to understand. What I see on weekdays is the blooming of sweet foam, and it is also exquisite. Every household's sweet foam is packed in a pot with a big belly. This pot must be one meter high. When it is cold, put a cotton cover outside the pot to keep warm. You should fill the sweet foam with a long wooden spoon. It is said that this is also done to keep the sweet foam fragrant and not simmer the soup.

Sweet foam is its way of drinking. Everyone in old Jinan knows that chopsticks and spoons are not needed to deal with sweet foam. Holding a bowl, walking and turning, whether it is golden porridge soup, colorful accessories composed of peanuts and adzuki beans, or vermicelli, shredded bean curd and spinach, you can drink it all at once! If you are a young office worker, it is serious to drink it quickly with a big spoon and then go to work. I choose to drink with a spoon. First, it is fast, and second, the sound of eating is always unsightly.

The sweet foam of breakfast is full of civilian style, which coincides with the Jinan temperament described by Mr. Lao She earlier. Coupled with two golden soft oil whirlpools or two fried dough sticks, it is extremely beautiful and comfortable.

I don't know why, it is such a bowl of sweet foam that always brings me infinite satisfaction every time I drink it.

Come to think of it, I have been in Quancheng for so many years, and I have traveled through the streets countless times. My heart has already infiltrated too many regional customs and catering culture in Jinan. Even at the intersection of different cities, I sit on a similar Mazar, looking at the endless downtown and thinking about the changing city every day. After struggling for so many years, there is always a saying lingering in my ear, "Reading vicissitudes will be bitter and spicy."

My heart suddenly became more passionate.