What were the hairpieces and dresses of the various dynasties in China since the founding of the country? Is there much difference?

Sewing was known to have been practiced by humans in the late Paleolithic, and bone needles have been excavated from the cultural remains of the Shandingdong people at Zhoukoudian. By the late Neolithic, clothing styles varied among people from different regions and ethnic groups. Take hairstyle as an example, there is a short hair cut in Didiwan culture, there is a braided hair in Majiayao culture, there are hair bands made of pig tusks in Dawenkou culture, and the Longshan culture used bone buns to bind the hair, and the jade human head unearthed in Shenmu Shiwang site of Longshan culture in Shaanxi Province, which has a bun on top of the head, may be a reflection of the use of buns to bind the hair. Bone buns have been unearthed in the sites of Erlitou type and Dongxiafeng type of Erlitou culture equivalent to the Xia Dynasty, and the shape is the same as that of the same kind of artifacts in the Shang Dynasty. Therefore, it is known that the bun was already a feature of Chinese clothing in ancient times.

[edit]Shang and Western Zhou

There is no physical evidence of Shang and Western Zhou clothing, but according to the jade and stone portraits from Houjiazhuang Tomb in Anyang and Muhao Tomb in Muhao, it can be seen that Shang aristocrats wore a cross-necked garment with an elegant sash around the waist, and a garment on their lower body with the city tied in front of the abdomen (covering the knees). There is even less portrait material left over from the Western Zhou Dynasty. From the point of view of the unearthed jade and bronze humanoid carriages in Luoyang, the clothes, garments, belts, and city were still the basic components of the aristocratic male clothing. Clothing with positive colors, clothing with inter-colored, and pay special attention to the city before the clothing. Western Zhou bronze inscriptions record the king of Zhou in the ceremony awarded clothing, there are often "Zhu city, onion yellow" ("Mao Gong Ding") "city, yellow" ("inquiry Gui") and other things. City, yellow that is, in ancient documents, Heng, refers to the shelter knee, Heng refers to the whole set of jewelry, including the group of the Department of jade and jade pieces. Henan Xinyang Changtaiguan and Hubei Jiangling Ji Nancheng Warring States Tomb of the figurines, are in front of the abdomen tie jade pendant. The aristocrats lined the jade pendant with a special color, thus attracting attention and becoming a symbol of status.

[edit]Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period

At this time, the deep clothes and hu clothes began to be popularized. The deep garment was called the deep garment because it attached together garments that used to be disconnected at the top and bottom. Instead of slits at the hem, the lapels of the garment were extended to cover the back of the garment, which is known as "overlapping and hooking the edges". Deep clothes in the Warring States period is quite popular, the Zhou royal family and Zhao, Zhongshan, Qin, Qi and other countries in the relics, have been found wearing deep clothing figures. The deep clothes of the wooden figurines unearthed from Chu tombs show the detailed structure more clearly. Short-sleeved clothes are a feature of the Chu costume. Jiangling Mashan No. 1 Chu Tomb had a short-sleeved "clothes", clothes that is, according to the explanation of the "Shuo Wen", this is a kind of short clothes. According to Zenghouyi bells of the bells of the gold people's clothing, should be short-sleeved clothes.

Hu clothing mainly refers to the clothes and pants type of clothing, especially characterized by long pants, is the clothing of the grassland peoples in northern China. For the convenience of horseback riding, they mostly wear narrower tops, long pants and boots. According to the Shiji (Records of the Grand Historian), it was first used by King Wuling of Zhao to equip the Zhao army. The bronze warrior statue produced at Changzhi Watershed in Shanxi Province, wearing a rectangular-collar, straight-breasted blouse on top, long pants underneath, a tapestry around the waist, and a sword, is the very image of a Zhao warrior who adopted the hu uniform.

"The system of Hu clothing, the crown is Huiwen, the belt is Beibei belt, the performance is boots, the pants are the upper pleats under the pants. ...... Since the Warring States Zhao Wuling Wang, Hu clothing riding, pants pleats passed to China, all generations are thought of as military service, or with its crown, or with its shoes, or with its clothes and belt, or all three, Jin Dynasty folk, began to even with it. North and South Dynasties of the era, the North Dynasty to the Hu suit as a regular dress, the South Department of the Han, still for the military service, than the Sui and Tang dynasties, the emperor as a hunting service, or up and down the public service, the folk are the most prevalent for the flow of clothing style. Retrospectively, from the transmission to the flourishing, from the military to the civil service, a long history, changes in complexity, Wang (Guowei)'s "hu service test" in the most detailed, not to be redundant. Only the Tang Dynasty Hu clothing, why the special flourishing, no one has been studying, Wang's test, also did not mention. According to my humble opinion, no more than the following three reasons: (1> Tang Dynasty Hu people, living in the interior, for a large number; (2) the aristocracy, the waste of ancient seat sitting, and for the Hu people sitting; (3) courtiers and attendants, abandoned the car and still riding.

Among the Hu clothing, there is the so-called half-arm. Anciently known as the half-arm, today's horse coat. "Shuowen" no coats of words, "Yu Zhuan" also no, fear that is the word Gua, coats of Gua are from the Gui sound, commonly used as coats, but can not be "hanging" or "hanging". Sleeveless or half-armed clothes, all for the hu clothing, "sin only record - crown clothing Zhi" cloud: "the dynastic satchel folds, military uniforms, short sleeves, or sleeveless and interrupted clothing, under the horizontal fold, and under the vertical fold. If the sleeve is long, it is a trailing spread, or waist interruption, to a line across the road, known as Cheng Zi clothes, wireless road, known as the road robe."

Like this pants pleats, and become the general name of Hu clothing. All sleeveless, short-sleeved, long-sleeved clothes, and waist center with a line across the cut or without a line across the cut of the robe, can be called trouser folds, and thus the half-arm of today's discussion, which is a hu clothing, there is no question. As for its form, Song Zeng three is different "with the record" "raccoon sleeve" article of the most detailed:

"In recent years, the clothing system, there is a kind of such as spinning jacket, long as the waist, the two sleeves only cover the elbow to the thickest of the silk for the, still wrapped in a folder, or which use sheep, with the edge of the purple soap, the name of the raccoon sleeve, heard of the beginning of the Royal Court Grooms. People, short front and back lapel, sitting in the saddle may not be off, with short sleeves to facilitate the control of the ear." Longer than the waist, two sleeves only cover the elbow, edge with purple soap cloth, with a jacket, there are also sheep clothes, apparently for the half-arm system. With its short front and back lapels, sitting on the saddle may wish to take off, it can also be called the waistcoat, waistcoat that is the lapel clothes. The system of the Ming and Qing dynasties is the same. "Zhi Zhi Lu" Volume 28 "lapel coat" so-called: "Taizu real record of Hongwu twenty-six years in March, forbidden, government and civilian foot soldiers, etc., clothing lapel coat, only riding horses allowed to serve, so as to ride a horse so also." Is also." (From Huang Xianfan's "interpretation of the ancient books of the first exploration")

[Edit paragraph]Qin and Han

The excavation of a large number of terracotta warriors in the Terracotta Warriors pit in the mausoleum of the first Emperor of Qin Shi Huang, the Qin and Han warriors' clothing provides a more adequate example. They wore a half-length coat with a shallow train, but still for the genus of deep clothes, the lower body wearing pants, the waist tied with a hook of the leather belt. This kind of attire was still widely popular in the Western Han Dynasty, and pants were gradually popularized throughout the society. The establishment of the crown system was realized in the Han Dynasty. In ancient times, the crown of the Chinese race was mainly subordinate to the ritual system, and all men performed the crown rite when they came of age. In the Han Dynasty, the crown was mainly subordinate to the dress system, and was a symbol of status, official position and even rank. People with low status could only wear the conical cap but not the crown. The crown was originally a hair cover added to the bun and did not cover the entire top of the head. The conical cap, on the other hand, is like a cap. Crown and conical cap originally unrelated to each other, to Wang Mang, it is said that because he was bald, so first wear the conical cap, the conical cap and then add the crown. Later, this method of wearing popularized, and thus appeared in the Eastern Han Dynasty on the portrait of the crown, also in the bottom of the pad with the conical cap. Crown and the conical cap can not be randomly matched, civil officials to wear the Jinxian crown with a roof-shaped meso-conical cap, military officials to wear a large crown with a flat top of the flat on the conical cap. Jinxian crown front towering, back tilted, the appearance of a slanting altar shape. Crown before the "beam", according to the number of beams to distinguish the identity of the wearer of the crown. The emperor wore the crown and the vassal king wore the far travel crown is also in the Jinxian crown on the basis of the increase in the decoration and become. WuBenDaGuan also known as "hui () WenGuan", at first only with (thin linen) made under the drooping ears of the ben, and later in the ben under the pad conical cap, and further in the ben on the lacquer, the shape of its so as to lacquer sand cages, it is also known as "cages of the crown". Gansu wuwei grinding mouth sub No. 62 xinmang tomb had unearthed the cage crown. In addition, warriors also wore crowns. Law enforcement officials wear Xiezhi crown.

In the distinction between inferiority and superiority, although the beams on the crown play a role, but the number of beams is more than three, the division of rank is more rough. Therefore, the Han Dynasty and the use of ribbon as a symbol of official rank, different levels of officials of the ribbon color, weave, density and length are not the same. At this time, the ribbon is tied to the official seal on the band, but it and the Western Zhou jade group real lineage.

Women in the Han Dynasty generally combed their hair back into a sagging round bun, the name of the vertebrae bun. Often wearing deep clothes, women's deep clothes of the gorgeous name of the clothes, it is not only in the lower body of the train wrapped around a number of layers, and in its diagonal width decorated with triangular objects and long straps, that is, the literature is called with. Its shape can be seen in sichuan unearthed on the han dynasty portrait bricks.

[edit]Wei Jin and North and South Dynasties

Wei, Western Jin clothing, largely inherited the Han system. Only popular pleated dress, and more wear then called small crown flat conical cap. North and South Dynasty, because the North Dynasty in the Xianbei or has been Xianbei under the rule of the rulers, so the popular Xianbei dress, a few Xianbei men wear round neck or cross-collar hanky, with long pants, long boots, waist belt with buckle leather belt, wearing a cap hanging back of the Xianbei. After a long period of mixed ethnic groups, this kind of attire is also popularized in the Han civilians. On the other hand, some of the rulers of the Northern Wei Dynasty for political needs, advocating Sinicization, so the emperor and the courtiers of the sacrificial clothing, court dress and appeared in the Eguan Bo belt of the Han Wei "Wei Yi". This can be seen in the Grottoes in the Langtang Mountain Grottoes of the "Emperor and Queen of the Buddha" relief or "successive emperors scrolls" of the Northern Zhou Dynasty Emperor Wudi statue.

[edit]Tang Dynasty

In the North and South Dynasties of the Hu and Han costumes interacted with each other and each formed a system based on the clothing system of the Tang Dynasty, there was a "legal clothing" and "regular clothing" parallel situation. As a big dress of the law is still the traditional crown, coronet, clothes, clothes, and regular clothes are in the Xianbei suit on the basis of the improvement and become. In the Tang Dynasty, all men, from the emperor down to the servant, wore regular clothes in their daily life, including the round-necked robe, turban, leather belt and boots. The turban is a long robe with a slit. The turban, which evolved from the Xianbei cap, was originally a turban, with two scarf corners holding the bun forward while the remaining two scarf corners were tied behind the head, with the excess part hanging down naturally. The material of the turban was initially made of black fabric or Luo, so the corner of the turban was also soft, so it was called "soft-footed turban". Later on, copper and iron wires were used as bones in the corner of the towel to hold it up, making it a "hard-footed turban". Because of the shape of the hard foot and the different angles of the turban, there are "sentence foot", "show foot", "towards the sky" and so on. The leather belt of the Tang Dynasty was initially equipped with a narrow strip of leather for tying things, so this belt is called the belt. Above and fixed with a number of square decorative plate, name. According to the different ranks, respectively, with jade, gold, rhinoceros, silver, Yu stone, blue iron and other materials, so that the leather belt has also become a symbol of the distinction between the ranks. In addition, the Northern Zhou appeared in the "color clothes", in the Tang Dynasty has formed a system, and has become a major feature of the Chinese official clothing. Tang officials from the first to the ninth grade, the color of purple, scarlet, green, green for the difference.

Tang Dynasty women's clothing is mainly composed of skirts, shirts, cape. At this time, the shirt is often hidden in the skirt, so it appears that the skirt is very long. Cape, also known as cape, like a long and thin scarf, is influenced by the West Asian Buddhist popular in the Central Plains. The pre-Tang Dynasty women's clothing is also popular in the rolled brim hat, collar coat and other hu clothing, after the Anshi Rebellion, the wind gradually break.

[edit]Song Dynasty

Song Dynasty clothing largely inherited the Tang system. At this time the turban lined with wooden bones, covered with lacquer yarn, the Song people called "turban hat", can be worn at will, and the beginning of the Tang Dynasty must be wrapped in a temporary tie soft foot turban is very different. At this time, the emperor and high-ranking officials to wear the exhibition foot turban, two feet to the sides of the flat straight out, up to several feet. The identity of the low official, servants, etc., is more to wear footless turban.

Song women also wore skirts and shirts, when the shirt is more of a lapel, covered in the skirt. Skirt is narrower, more fine folds, Fuzhou Huang tomb in addition to the skirt, and crotch pants and crotch pants, visible in the Song Dynasty women in the skirt with pants. Started in the Five Dynasties when the foot binding, to the late Northern Song Dynasty has gradually popularized.

[Edit Paragraph]Yuan Dynasty

Yuan Dynasty Mongolian men wore the hat round name cymbal hats, square or polygonal name corrugated hat, commonly known as Tartar hat. The former in Gansu Zhangxian Yuan Wang Shixian family tomb in kind excavated, the latter is seen in Henan Jiaozuo Yuan tomb of ceramic figurines. Yuan people's robes often in the waist of the braid line, the lower body has a pleat, the name of the braid line jacket, senior officials and nobles more than to Na Shi lost (gold brocade) production. In winter, often wearing fur coat, the name of the answer to the hu. Noblewomen wear Gu Gu crown to wood for the bone, three feet high, outside the red silk, decorated with beads and jade, the top of the wooden branch, plume, style is very special. Yuan had asked in the beginning of the Beijing scholar and common people are made Mongolia attire, Dade after each let it be. So the Yuan dynasty Han, especially the Han living in the south of the so-called "South" of the dress is generally no different from the Song dynasty.

[edit]Ming and Qing Dynasties

The Ming Dynasty demanded the restoration of the Tang system of clothing, the style of the dress is similar to the Tang Dynasty, only the Jinxian Crown was changed to the Liang Crown, and added the Zhongjing Crown crowns and other crowns. The Ming Dynasty's public service also use turban and round neck robe, but this time the turban outside the black lacquer, foot short and wide, the name of the hat, no official civilian shall not be taken. In addition to the public service according to the rank of the service color, but also in the chest, back patch. Civilian officials in the patch decorated with birds, military officials decorated with beasts. In order to praise the merits of the officials, another special gift python, flying fish, fighting bulls and other clothing. Python is a four-clawed dragon, flying fish with fins for the tail of the python, bullfighting on the head of the python with a curved bull's horns. Officials to the very top of the jade belt. So "python robe jade belt" has become the most distinguished attire of the big bureaucrats at this time.

The Qing Dynasty changed to full dress. Officials in the robe outside of the lab coat is more stone green, so do not use the color of the clothes. Qing dynasty official clothes distinguish between levels, in addition to continue to use the filler, but also pay special attention to the top of the tasseled cap. A product of officials installed ruby hat top, two products installed coral top, three products sapphire top, four products lapis lazuli top, the following have equal differences. Military officials in the pro-principal and military service, but also rewarded wearing plume, with a single eye, double eyes, three eyes of the points. Therefore, the Qing Dynasty official dress to "top hat plume" for the most prominent signs.

Ming and Qing dynasties Han women's clothing has not changed much, still wearing shirts, skirts, pants instead of skirts in the late Qing dynasty. After the mid-Qing women's clothing layer edging, known as "roll set". Manchu women in the Qing dynasty with flag dress, they do not wrap their feet, do not bind the skirt, all wearing cheongsam, sometimes plus the shoulders. After the Qianlong, Manchu women's clothing appeared in the high bottom of the "flowerpot bottom" shoes. After Xianfeng, there is a tall "two head", "big pull the wings" and other hairstyles, become the prominent features of Manchu women's clothing.