Identification of traditional clothing

Traditional national costumes-cheongsam and mandarin jacket

Mandarin jacket and cheongsam are typical clothes for men and women in Qing Dynasty. Now it has become a traditional costume in China.

A jacket is a short coat worn over a robe. The length of the jacket is umbilical, and the sleeves only cover the elbows, mainly for the convenience of riding, so it is called "jacket". When Manchu first entered the customs, it was only open to soldiers of the Eight Banners. It was not until the reign of Kangxi and Yongzheng that it became popular in the society, and it developed into clothes such as singles, clips, yarn, leather and cotton, which became men's plain clothes and could be worn by ordinary people. Later, it gradually evolved into a ceremonial costume. Regardless of identity, I wore a jacket outside my robe, which was elegant and generous.

There are three styles of mandarin jackets: pipa lapels, large lapels and double lapels. Pipa armour is also called short armour because of its lack of right armour. You can move freely when you wear it, and it is often used for luggage. A jacket with a big skirt, which is open on the right side and surrounded by different colors, is generally used as a uniform. Duijianzi, its clothing color has changed in different periods: at first it was cyan, at the middle of Qianlong period it was rose purple, and then it was crimson (called "Fucai"). During the Jiaqing period, clay gold and light gray were popular. Long-sleeved coats can be used as dresses instead of coats, and the color is mostly cyan. Officials of all sizes often wear this kind of clothes when paying customers. Because of its narrow sleeves, it is also called "long-sleeved coat".

There is one color in the coat that can't be used casually, and that is yellow. This yellow jacket is a special gift from the emperor. There are three main types of people who wear this kind of clothes: one is the bodyguard who "patrols" with the emperor, which is called "jacket on duty"; Second, when shooting around the wire, those who hit the target or get more prey are called "walking around the jacket"; Third, those who have made meritorious deeds in politics or war are called "martial arts jackets", and these people will go down in history. Only this royal jacket can be worn at any time

Cheongsam is a kind of women's dress with ethnic customs in China, which evolved from the robes of Manchu women. Because Manchu is called "Qiren", it is called "Qipao". In the Qing Dynasty, there were both Manchu and Han women's dresses. In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women mainly wore robes, while Han women still wore clothes and skirts as the fashion. In the middle of Qing dynasty, Manchu and Han followed suit; By the end of the Qing Dynasty, it was more and more popular for Manchu to imitate the Han nationality, and even there was a situation that "most of the flags were changed to Hanfu, and the palace robes were cut into short clothes", and the Han nationality imitated Manchu costumes, which became popular among some senior ladies at this time.

In the 1920s, influenced by western costumes, the improved cheongsam gradually became popular among women. This kind of cheongsam was introduced to thousands of households by Han women through continuous improvement after absorbing western clothing styles. There are many styles of cheongsam, such as wishful placket, pipa placket, inclined placket and double placket. There are high collar, low collar and no collar; The cuffs have long sleeves, short sleeves and sleeveless sleeves; There are high slits and low slits in the slits; There are also long cheongsam, short cheongsam, double cheongsam and single cheongsam. In 1930s, the improved cheongsam almost became the standard dress for women in China.