Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional customs - Qing Dynasty consorts dress and wear jewelry differently
Qing Dynasty consorts dress and wear jewelry differently
The empress's court dress consists of the crown, robe, robe, coat, skirt and beads. Dynasty robe made of bright yellow satin, divided into winter and summer two categories, winter another sable edge. The basic style of the robe is by the collar, shoulder pads and robe body composition. The collar is also embroidered with dragons. Wear the robe must be matched with the robe, the robe is worn in the robe outside the dress, its style for the lapel, collarless, sleeveless, like an undershirt. It is also embroidered with dragon cloud and eight treasures and other patterns. This picture for the late Qing dynasty Xuantong Shufei Wenxiu wedding with gold and yellow silk embroidered robe.
Qing dynasty consort gold dragon robe
Empress of the court dress by the crown, robe, robe, robe, skirt and beads and other components. Dynasty robe made of bright yellow satin, divided into winter and summer two categories, winter another sable edge. The basic style of the robe is by the collar, shoulder pads and robe body composition. The collar is also embroidered with dragons. Wear the robe must be matched with the robe, the robe is worn in the robe outside the dress, its style for the lapel, collarless, sleeveless, like an undershirt. It is also embroidered with dragon clouds and eight treasures and other patterns. This picture shows the bright yellow satin embroidered with colorful clouds and gold dragons worn by the Empress Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty.
The Qing Dynasty robe
The style of the Qing Dynasty robe is the same as that of the dragon robe, with a round neckline, a pair of lapels, left and right openings, and straight cuffs. According to the identity of the characters, the embroidered patterns are different. Such as the Duke of Zhen Guo Lady, Lady of Min Gong, Duke of Fu Guo Lady, the County Lord to the third lady of the auspicious clothing coat, are embroidered flowers eight groups, stone green. This picture is a portrait of the 67th generation of Confucius in the Qing dynasty, Mrs. Yansheng Gong Zhang, wearing eight groups of flowers and gi coats
Qing dynasty qianlong empress gown
Qing dynasty consort dress Qing dynasty qianlong empress gown, the style for the lapel, round neck, sleeveless, open air, embroidered with gold throughout the body of the standing dragon pattern, but there are several different styles of patterns, the pattern of this picture of the gown is divided into four layers along the edge of the separation of the gold brocade, the upper layer of the two shoulders before and after the embroidery of standing dragons! The pattern of the coat is divided into four layers from top to bottom, separated by gold brocade along the edge, with a dragon embroidered on each shoulder of the upper layer and a dragon embroidered on the front and back of the second, third, and fourth layers, each embroidered with 10, 12, and 16 dragons, for a total of 78 dragons. After the collar of the coat are hanging with bright yellow tapes, tapes decorated with jewelry. The robe is worn outside the robe. This picture is the Qing dynasty qianlong empress coat.
Qing dynasty consort dragon coat
Qing dynasty consort dress Qing dynasty dragon coat, style for the round neck, lapel, left and right open air, the sleeve end of the long straight robe. Dragon coat can only be for the Empress, Empress Dowager, Royal Consort, Consort, Consort, concubines to take. Empress dragon coat decoration, according to the literature there are two types, the Forbidden City, Beijing, the collection of objects, there are three types, are stone green: the first decorated with five claws of the dragon eight groups, shoulders, chest and back of a group of positive dragons, before and after the lapel of the line of dragons of two groups, under the eight treasures, Shoushan Shuiwang Jiangya and the standing water pattern, the end of the sleeve of each of the two rows of dragons and the water wave pattern. The second type is only decorated with five-clawed golden dragons eight groups, the lower part and the end of the sleeve is not applied to the pattern. The third type of decorative five-clawed gold dragon eight groups, the lower part of the water waves, the end of the river, Shoushan, standing water pattern. Empress, Empress Dowager, Imperial Consort, Consort, Consort Dragon Coat and this is the same. Concubines wear dragon coats, before and after the shoulders of the front and back of the dragon each one, lapel change four dragons.
Qing Dynasty consort hair and jewelry
Qing Dynasty consort comb what hair style, can be said to be a mysterious thing: since the Cixi curtain, to "motherly" notorious world only to unveil this secret. Popular in the late Qing Dynasty "big pull the wings" is recognized by the world is the Palace Consort's official hair, eunuchs and women, folk women have to follow suit, passed down to the present day on the stage of the drama. In fact, the Qing Dynasty consort hair style and the Qing Dynasty social development has experienced the same from low to high, from simple to complex, from simple to luxury process.
The Manchus who ruled the Qing Dynasty originally lived in the northeast of China between the white mountains and black water, the natural environment created their fishing, hunting, farming, picking lifestyle. In order to act fast, easy to ride, Manchu men and women have the habit of recognizing the long disk bun. The hair will be set on the top of the head to braid a long identification, disk a round bun. At that time, regardless of the status of high and low, rich and poor, hair uniform. Later, Nurhachu built the Jin state, began to build the crown system. Palace consort women in order to wear a crown when the needs of the ceremony, the top of the head of the chignon loose in the back of the head. Early Qing dynasty, again sound crown system. In addition to the big ceremony when the consort wear crown, festivals consort to wear tin. Wear a tin, the back of the head and then drooping hair to recognize is not adapted. So, the consort comb two horizontal long bun, shaped like a little girl combed two buns, wearing a very stable tin. Take off the tin, this kind of bun type bun can also be home often dress. Because of this hair style, equal parts left and right, each tied a hand, the palace consort called it "small two head". Early Qing dynasty several empress dowager, empress life thrifty, comb small two handle head, only wear flowers, do not wear jewelry. "Small two handle head" in the Qing dynasty popular for a long time, until the Qianlong dynasty, Xiaoxian Empress is only wearing grass, not wearing gold and silver jewelry. Used to urge the palace consort to thrift-based. "Small two head" is characterized by my hair combed, can not wear heavy weight of gold and silver jewelry. The emergence of "small two head", from the practical starting point, with the consolidation of Qing rule, economic development, consort hair style also appeared from small to large, from the practical to the beauty, beauty jewelry aesthetic type development.
The middle of the Qing Dynasty, is known as the golden age of the Qianlong era. During this period, the mode of production and lifestyle has been a great development, jewelry production process is no exception. Qing dynasty court in a special position, the country's valuable jewelry from all over the constant tribute to the Qing dynasty palace, greatly stimulated the court consort in pursuit of the psychological beauty of the jewelry. However, to these sizable portions of gold, silver, jade, pearls, gemstones of jewelry worn on the head, "small two head" chignon showed many deficiencies. Such as "small two handle head" low hanging, almost to the root of the ear, hair bun loose, a little touch will be scattered. How to put on these beautiful jewelry? Thus, a new combing tool - hair frame came into being. Hair frame has a wooden, there are wire screwed, shaped like a horizontal spectacle frame. Comb your hair, first fixed head, and then put on the hair frame, the hair is divided into two left and right, cross ò in the hair frame. In the middle of the horizontal insert a long flat square (inserted in the two holes of the hair frame), and then use the needle to fix the hair and broken hair firmly, wear what kind of jewelry are caught. The two head of the back of the ear side of the hair, combed into a flat shape, the end of the hair band bundled up, slightly upward, like a swallow tail. The whole bun like a swallow to fly, the Qing Dynasty consort also varies according to the age of combing head wear jewelry. Young, wear colorful jewelry, showing the youthful and lively vitality. Older comb "two head", jewelry selection of noble texture, reflecting the older women dignified, stable. Royal women head comb two head, inserted wearing expensive jewelry, and feet wearing high shoes echo. Walking upper body upright chest and abdomen, seems to have a rhythm, head joints, neck stalks can not be swaying left and right, swinging back and forth. For the feudal society set up the best image of women's action norms.
To the late Qing Dynasty, the Qing Palace consort and the popularity of head cover type "big pull wings" hairstyle. "Big pull the wings" is a fan-shaped hard shell, about a foot high, inside the wire in accordance with the size of the head to do a round hoop and skeleton, and then use the cloth Yuzhe to do the tire. Outside wrapped in green satin and green velvet, made of a fixed purely decorative two big head. When needed, wear on the head, when not in use, take off and set aside. Both can be beautifully decorated hair, and take off and wear freely, can be said to be the best of both worlds. The Qing Dynasty Palace Lyrics said: "Phoenix bun dished out two Qi, pearl hairpin shadow protection grub. The city is not higher than a foot, the fork is divided into swallow tail bottom." The big pull fin replaced the two heads combed with a hair frame, which is said to be Cixi's original invention, related to her position in the Qing Palace. She was in a position different from that of the dowager empresses and empresses of the Qing dynasty. In addition, she was extravagant and lived extravagantly. Clothing, food, housing and transportation must meet her pursuit of "beauty" standards.
The Qing Dynasty consort hair style from simple "two small head" to "fork head", and then "big pull the wings" have obvious traditional Manchu characteristics, embellished with these hair style of the Headdress, also has its unique ethnic style. The following are described: flat square: flat square is Manchu women comb "two head" when the main jewelry. In Zaitao, Yun Bao Hui co-authored the "life of the late Qing aristocrats" book, has said that "Manchu women usually comb 'two head', simple style. All real hair pulled jade or cui horizontal 'flat square' on". Flat side of the general length of 32-35 centimeters, 4 centimeters wide. Thick 0.2-0.3 centimeters. Ruler-shaped, one end of the semi-circular, one end like a scroll. Comb "fork head" or "big pull wings", all play a role in horizontal connection. Han Dynasty men prevailed in wearing crowns, bents, crowns for decoration, installed crowns, bents, crowns connected together is a 12-inch-long hairpin, from the left through to the right.
Manchu women in the Qing dynasty flat side and the Han dynasty long hairpin has a similar role, and the same size. Just use different objects. It can be inferred that the flat side may be evolved from the long hairpin. But the flat side also has a small size, such as the funeral, the wife for her husband to wear mourning. Put down the "two head", the head inserted a 3-inch bone small flat square. Daughter-in-law mourning for parents-in-law, it is necessary to insert a silver or copper small flat square, to show the difference.
The Qing Dynasty consort to wear a lot of flat square texture, there are gold, silver, jade, cui, tortoiseshell, garnet, sandalwood, pearls, gemstones and so on. Its fine work is rare in the world. Such as gold bonding plus point Cui, silver inlaid gemstones, gold burin flowers, jade carving a variety of carvings. In the flat side of only one inch wide on the narrow surface, can make flowers, birds, fish and insects, pavilions, fruits and text, such as Vivienne exquisite pattern. Consorts wear flat square, deliberately exposed the two ends of the flower decorations, some also in the flat square at one end of the axle holes hanging a bunch of green spikes, walking, action section, adding a woman's dignified and beautiful gesture.
Hairpin: hairpin use is very early, in the Neolithic period of Yangshao culture, there are round vertebrae-shaped bone hairpin unearthed. During the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, gold hairpins and jade hairpins appeared one after another and became a symbol of the status of the slave masters and aristocrats. The emperors were decorated with jade hairpins and the consorts with gold hairpins. Ivory hairpins and tortoiseshell hairpins were worn by courtiers. From the viewpoint of the hairpin ornaments left behind by the consorts in the Qing Dynasty, there are no more than two kinds of practical and decorative hairpins. Practical hairpin is mostly a long pin with light vein, and the texture is mostly gold, silver, copper, etc., which plays the role of fixing the head shape when coiling the bun. Decorative hairpin more texture of precious materials made of beautifully patterned hairpin head, specifically for hair bun combing worn in the obvious position. Consort head hairpin in the Qing Dynasty with gold, jade beads, gemstone production, craftsmanship, exquisite modeling. Such as the Forbidden City, the existing "white jade hairpin", is a pure white jade carved into a single written "Shou" word, hairpin quite is the "Shou" word the last one. With the same method of carving the jadeite dish intestines hairpin, red coral bat hairpin are hairpin jewelry in the masterpiece. The gold burin Fuzi hairpin, magpie hairpin, five bats holding the longevity hairpin, etc. are famous for their fine and delicate carvings. In addition, the head hairpin inlaid with various kinds of pearls and precious stones on the gold and silver base is mostly composed of two parts: the head of the hairpin and the pin. The head of the pin is made of copper wire of different thicknesses to make flowers and leaves, and then the bottom of the flowers and stamens made of precious stones are drilled with holes, threaded with fine copper wire and wound into a spring with great elasticity, which is gently moved and trespassed without stopping. Make the eyes of the birds, antennae, plant whiskers and leaves, branches and branches of the image of a realistic, Vimy. Wear in the female head, undoubtedly added a few points of delicate beauty.
Head flower: head flower is the Qing Palace Consort comb "fork head", "big pull the wings" bun of the main jewelry, most of the jewels inlaid and become. Such as the Forbidden City collection of ruby string of rice beads head flower, feather point Cui inlaid pearl three friends (pine, bamboo, plum) head flower, sapphire dragonfly head flower, ruby flowers Diemian head flower, gold dowel double dragons playing with beads head flower, gold inlaid rice beads double money head flower and so on, all to the production of exquisite, realistic image and famous. Qing Palace Consort like to wear head flower, because the flowers are large, covering a large area, wearing in the "two head" in the center, looks magnificent. Qing dynasty consort wearing head flower has the intention of beautifully decorated hair bun, also has to show the identity, status. Cixi in many portraits, photographs, can see her hair bun high, wearing a large head flower image. Cixi not only like jewelry head flower, but also like to wear large flowers. This is because the Chinese language "pompoms" and the Manchu language in the "Ronghua" near sound, wear pompoms that have the meaning of glory and wealth. Therefore, the Qing Palace Consort all year round to wear velvet head flower, for good luck. Especially should be the order of the season to wear seasonal pompoms: spring day wear pompoms spring streamers, Qingming day wear pompoms willow buds flowers, Duanyang day wear pompoms mugwort, Mid-Autumn Day wear pompoms chrysanthemums, sunrise wear pompoms cornelian cherry, winter solstice festival wear gourd pompoms ......
Tassels: in 1904, the United States female painter Karl Cixi painted a number of oil paintings, one of which wore a yellow background Embroidered wisteria group life jacket cloak, head combed "big pull wings", hairpin inserted a lot of beads and jewels: Cui hairpin, phoenix hairpin, gold flat square, jeweled head flower, pearl headband and hanging strings of tassels, Cixi added a sense of elegance and wealth. Tassel and the ancient eight jewelry in the step rock extremely imaginative. "step rocker, through the gold beads and jade, by hairpin hanging down, step is shaking the meaning." Step shaking began to see in the Han dynasty court consort ritual jewelry. After the Han Dynasty, step rock gradually popular folk, become one of the women's favorite jewelry. Qing Palace consort called the tassel for the tassel. Its form is diverse, the top of the dragon and phoenix head, bird head, butterflies, mandarin ducks, bats, etc., or mouth beads, or head beads. Bead string also has a layer, two layers, three layers. On display in the Palace Museum of Treasures, a "rice beads double happiness character tassel", is the Tongzhi Emperor's wedding, the Empress wore. The top of the tassel is a big bat with feathers, its mouth with two small gold rings, below a feather decorated with emerald green Ruyi cloud head. Under the Ruyi cloud head are three strings of long pearls in parallel. Each strand of pearls is divided into three parallel layers, and the layers are spaced apart by double happiness characters carved from red coral. At the bottom of the strand of pearls is a ruby as the corner of the pendant. The entire tassel is twenty-eight centimeters long and is worn at the top of the hair bun, with the spikes of pearls hanging down to the level of the shoulders. Is the longest one in the tassel. Qing dynasty palace collection of tassels mostly worn by the empress, to phoenix drip beads the largest number. For example, a dragon and a phoenix facing each other is called "dragon and phoenix presenting good luck", two phoenixes facing each other is called "colorful phoenix", peony flower and phoenix are "phoenix in the sun", "phoenix through peony", etc. The tassel is the longest one in the tassel in the Qing Palace. The peony flower and the phoenix are "Dangfeng Chaoyang" and "Fenghuang Dangdan", and so on. The emperor was the son of the dragon, and the empress was the phoenix, the king of birds. Feudal emperors hoped that they had many children and grandchildren, so the queen's headdress in the phoenix and phoenix bird brood of the subject matter is a lot.
In addition, the consort's headdress there are strangler, tin flower, pimple needle, old crows dipper, ear digging spoon and other Manchu characteristics of the jewelry, are the Qing Palace consort comb "two head" to fix, decorate the bun. With the fusion of Manchu and Han customs and habits, dress culture, the Qing Palace Consort headdress gradually absorbed by the folk, which evolved many women loved headdress, passed down to the present day has a deep impact
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