What's the significance of Chinese tunic suit?

A man's suit named after Sun Yat-sen, the pioneer of China revolution.

19 19, Sun Yat-sen asked Shanghai Henry Clothing Store to change a uniform into casual clothes. On the basis of retaining some military uniform styles, this leisure suit absorbs the advantages of Hanfu and suit, which is simple, simple and generous. Thanks to Dr. Sun Yat-sen's advocacy and his fame, this leisure style spread quickly, and after constant revision, it developed into a tunic suit and became a common costume for men in China. There are other theories about the origin of Zhongshan suit. If some say it was published in Guangzhou in 19 12, some say it was transformed from Japanese railway uniforms.

The original style of Zhongshan suit: the top is made of stand collar, front placket, 9 buttons, 4 pressure pockets, back shoulder, concealed pleat back seam and half belt. 1922 the Chinese tunic suit was replaced by 7 buttons with vertical lapels, and the lower pocket was a tiger leather bag. Later, it was changed to the current style: the coat is vertical lapel and has a training button; Three slits, front placket and 5 buttons; 4 patch pocket, each with a bag cover and a 1 button, with a flat patch pocket on top and a tiger skin bag on the bottom, which are symmetrical; There is a pen insertion opening of about 3cm near the right seam of the upper left pocket cover. A high-grade Zhongshan suit with three buttons at the cuffs. Pants matched with Chinese tunic suit generally use trousers of the same material and color.

With regard to the "Zhongshan suit", The Dictionary of Chinese Culture and Customs records that "Sun Yat-sen referred to the original characteristics of clothes and trousers in China, absorbed the" enterprise-collar suit "and" suit style "of overseas Chinese in Nanyang, and personally presided over the design with the principle of" sanitary, easy to move, easy to save and beautiful ".

Huang Longsheng mentioned here is an overseas Chinese in Vietnam and owns a foreign clothing store. 1902, Sun Yat-sen went to Vietnam to organize a meeting and once went to Huang's shop to buy things. When Huang learned that this client was Sun Yat-sen, he immediately asked to join the Hui people's association and make contributions to the revolution.

So the Chinese tunic suit is set at 19 12. After the founding of New China, because revolutionary leaders and cadres all wore Chinese tunic suit, people also used it to welcome the new era. Therefore, the Chinese tunic suit is very popular in the society, and it has become the symbol of men's wear in China. Even today, the fashionable clothes evolved from it can still be seen on the runway.

Modeling characteristics of Zhongshan suit

Zhongshan suit is advocated by Sun Yat-sen, and it is also simple and practical. Since the revolution in 19 1 1, it has been popular with suits. 19 12, the government of the Republic of China designated the Zhongshan suit as a formal suit, modified its shape and gave it a new meaning. Lapel, lapel, there are five buttons on the front, four patch pocket, and three buttons on the cuff. The backboard is not broken. These forms are actually exquisite and meaningful according to the etiquette of the Zhou Dynasty in the Book of Changes.

First, the four pockets of the predecessor represent the four dimensions of the country (courtesy, justice, honesty and shame), and the lid of the pocket is an inverted pen holder, which means ruling the country by writing.

Secondly, the five buttons on the front are different from the separation of powers (administration, legislation, justice, examination and supervision) in the west.

Third, the three buttons on the cuff represent the Three People's Principles (nationality, civil rights and people's livelihood).

Fourth, the unbreakable back symbolizes the great righteousness of peaceful reunification of the country.

Fifth, the collar is defined as lapel closure, which shows the concept of strict governance.

The origin of Zhongshan suit

In the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), men in China combed their hair, dressed and put on their hats according to the Manchu style until the beginning of the 20th century. Although China has entered the journey of modern history, traditional costumes still maintain a certain stability, and traditional styles such as robes, mandarin jackets and melon seeds caps are still in use. Shortly after 1900, traditional costumes began to be influenced by foreign costumes, and some changes took place, but the basic style remained the same. It was not until 19 1 Xinhai Revolution that some fundamental changes occurred, which marked the complete collapse of the Qing Dynasty and the end of an era. The Revolution of 1911 not only brought about drastic changes in society, but also made the changes in clothing more rapid and obvious. Zhongshan suit was born in this change.

Chinese tunic suit is a major category of modern clothes in China. There is a pocket with a lid and a button on the left and right sides of the coat, and pants are under it. This is a popular dress after the Revolution of 1911. It was worn by Sun Yat-sen, a great revolutionary pioneer, when he was the temporary president, and it was popular all over the world, so it was called Zhongshan suit. President Mao Zedong appreciates the "Chinese tunic suit" very much and insists on wearing it all the time, so foreign friends also call it "Mao uniform". With the characteristics of our nation, it is simple, comfortable and crisp to wear. /kloc-when the Kuomintang constitution was formulated in 0/8, it was stipulated that all civil servants at a certain level should wear Chinese tunic suit when they were sworn in, in order to show that it was in line with Mr. Wang's law.

The origin of the Zhongshan suit is said to be that when Dr. Sun Yat-sen was the Grand Marshal of China Revolutionary Government in Guangzhou, he felt that the style of the suit was cumbersome and inconvenient to wear, and China's clothes also had shortcomings in practice. 1902, Sun Yat-sen went to Hanoi, Vietnam to organize the Zhong Xing Club, and accidentally entered the western-style clothes shop opened by Huang Longsheng, a Cantonese in Hanoi. In order to save foreign exchange and reflect China's national conditions, he instructed Huang Longsheng to design a beautiful, simple and practical Chinese dress. Huang designed and sewed clothes with reference to western European and Japanese clothing styles, combined with the "enterprise collar" tops and student clothes popular among overseas Chinese in Southeast Asia at that time. However, it has also been reported that the Zhongshan suit was originally transformed from the military uniform at that time. 19 19, when Dr. Sun Yat-sen was living in Shanghai, he once took an old military uniform to the famous Henry clothing store and asked the tailor to change it into "casual clothes". After putting on "casual clothes", it still looks like a military uniform. But in casual clothes, it is neither a "Tang suit" nor a "suit", so the clerk named it Zhongshan suit. Because of Dr. Sun Yat-sen's high reputation at home and abroad, this kind of clothing spread like wildfire and quickly spread all over the country. At that time, the tunic suit had a seam in the back, a belt in the middle of the back, nine buttons nailed to the front door and "fat cuffs" in the upper and lower pockets. Later, it gradually evolved into the current style: a closed figure-eight neckline with sleeves, 5 buttons in the center of the front placket, and a seamless back. The cuffs can be decorated with split nails, fake split nails or without split buttons. Open pocket, symmetrical left and right, covered with a button. The upper two small pockets are flat patch pocket with round bottom corners, and the middle of the pocket cover is an arc-shaped tip. The two big pockets below are tiger leather bags (hanging on the side 1.5-2cm). Pants have three pockets (two side pockets and a covered back pocket) for rolling pants. Obviously, the modelling of Zhongshan suit is based on the basic modelling and combined with China's traditional consciousness. The overall profile shoulder pad is waist-folded, balanced and symmetrical, and it is steady and generous to wear.

Since the birth of 1923, Zhongshan suit has always been the most popular and favorite clothing style for men in China. Sun Yat-sen, the founder of China's democratic revolution, wears a Chinese tunic suit.

1923, when Mr. Sun Yat-sen served as the Grand Marshal of China Revolutionary Government, he felt that the suit was not only bulky in style and inconvenient to wear, but also unsuitable for the actual requirements of people's life and work in China at that time. China's original clothes (double-breasted coat, long-breasted gown, etc. ) can't fully reflect the spirit of the times of China people at that time, but also has similar shortcomings in practice. Therefore, it is advocated that on the basis of the "business collar and dress" coat popular among overseas Chinese in Nanyang at that time, a reverse collar should be added to the business collar to replace the hard collar of suits and shirts. In this way, a coat has the functions of a suit coat, shirt and collar; The three hidden pockets of the "business collar dress" coat have been changed into four open pockets, and the two open pockets below have also been cut into the style of "piano bag", which can expand and contract with the number of items put in. Dr. Sun Yat-sen said that he reformed his pockets so that books, notebooks and other necessities for study and work could be put in his pockets. Because of the soft cover on the pocket, the things in the pocket will not be easily lost. The trousers designed by Dr. Sun Yat-sen are: the front is sewn with hidden buttons; A big dark bag on the left and right, and a small dark bag in front (watch bag); Dig a hidden bag on the right rear hip and cover it with a soft cover. This kind of trousers is convenient to wear and suitable for carrying personal necessities.

The assistant who helped Dr. Sun Yat-sen create the Zhongshan suit was Huang Longsheng, a native of Taishan, Guangdong. He originally opened a Longsheng western-style clothes shop in Paul Bart Street in Hanoi. 1902 12 In February, Dr. Sun Yat-sen went to Hanoi to organize a Zhong Xing meeting, and occasionally went into his shop to shop and talk with him. When Huang Longsheng learned that the customer in front of him was Dr. Sun Yat-sen, the leader of the revolutionary party, he was deeply impressed. I earnestly request to attend the Zhong Xing meeting and make donations for the revolution. 1923 Huang Longsheng worked in the Grand Marshal's Office with Dr. Sun Yat-sen. When Dr. Sun Yat-sen designed the Zhongshan suit, he asked him to help his colleagues plan sewing and successfully made the world's first Zhongshan suit.

When Dr. Sun Yat-sen put on his own suit, which is also the first suit in the world, he said, "This suit is beautiful, practical, convenient and economical. Unlike a suit, you need a stiff collar in addition to a coat and shirt. Most of these things are imported (most of them were imported from foreign countries at that time), which is laborious and expensive. " Zhongshan suit has the advantages of good-looking, practical and convenient, so once advocated by Dr. Sun Yat-sen, it was welcomed by the masses.

The workmanship of Zhongshan suit

The tunic suit is exquisite in workmanship, and the collar corner should be a nest, and the back shoulder should not be swollen. Sleeves are as round as suit sleeves, and the chest should be fat. The four pockets should be flat and the threads should be straight. Technically, it can be divided into two types: fine work and simple work. The former has lining and padding, which is generally used to match dresses and trousers, while the latter is suitable for everyday casual wear without lining. There are many advantages of Zhongshan suit, mainly the balanced and symmetrical shape, elegant appearance, elegant and steady dress, convenient activities, free movement and warmth, which can be used as both formal and casual clothes. Its disadvantage is tight neckline and close to the neck. Zhongshan suit has attracted the favor of middle-aged and elderly people and overseas Chinese with its unique calm, sophisticated, steady and generous style, especially intellectuals still regard Zhongshan suit as a daily dress. When you wear it, you should pay attention to the meaning conveyed by the Zhongshan suit, which conforms to its attitude towards life. We should close the buttons. Some people will open them for temporary comfort, which will make them look nondescript, elegant and serious in everyone's eyes.

The color of Zhongshan suit

The color of the Zhongshan suit is very rich, besides the common blue and gray, there are camel, black, white, grayish green, beige and so on. Generally speaking, the southern region prefers light color, while the northern region prefers dark color. Wear it on different occasions and choose different colors. The color of the formal tunic suit should be solemn and steady, and the color can be lively when casually worn. There are also some differences in the choice of fabrics. As the fabric of tunic suit, pure wool gabardine, camel hair brocade, melton, navy blue and so on should be selected. These fabrics are characterized by thick texture, full feel, smooth surface and soft luster, which complement the style of Zhongshan suit and make the clothing more calm and solemn. As a convenient fabric, you can choose relatively elastic fabrics, such as cotton, khaki, gabardine, chemical fiber fabric, blended wool fabric and so on.