Ancient Chinese headdress, how much do you know?

Dress begins with the head.

The headwear, is the costume parts used for the head. Ancient Chinese crown and hat began in the pre-Qin period of headwear, that is, the general term for supplies and ornaments on the head. Crown hat is a kind of hair binding tool used by the ancient people of China, at the same time in the ritual and aesthetic needs, and is a kind of head ornament, it is regarded as ? etiquette? symbol of culture[1]88. Since ancient times, the first dress is an important part of people's clothing, through a long process of human history, objectively promote the development of the first dress.

In the history of Chinese dress, the status of the first dress in the whole dress is an important symbol for recognizing the identity and social grade status. Since the Zhou Dynasty, a complete system of crowns was established. From the crown, it was possible to recognize the difference in rank between emperors and vassals, generals and soldiers, civil and military officials, and social streams, however, ordinary people were not qualified to wear it.

A variety of first dress wear, wearer, wear occasions, etc., there are strict regulations or customary mode, in order to distinguish people's status high and low, noble and low. This kind of hierarchical system, has been applied to China's feudal society, throughout the entire history of the development of the ancient first clothing, and the type of first clothing is becoming more complex, more and more styles, the name of hundreds of kinds of more. Forms of expression division, will be nearly modern Han national costume in the first clothing is divided into: cap, scarf, eyebrow le, warm ear four categories.

A, cap

Cap, also known as? The cap, also known as? , also known as? Hat?

The Houhan Book? The record of "public opinion and clothing": ? In the ancient times, the people lived in a wild place, and they had a crown, horns and beard. Observe birds and animals have crowns, horns and all kinds of beard, they imitate the crown hair bun fringe, so there are a variety of hair accessories. Crowns, scarves and handkerchiefs. In ancient times, the ancient Chinese? s cave dwellings and wild places, clothing hair and risking the skin, there is no system. With the development of society, etiquette and decorative needs, the ancients according to the natural world in the head of birds and animals to imitate the modeling, adapted into a crown to wear on the head, the birds and animals of the beard into tassels, and then inserted with matrices through the hair to make it stable. Cap, need to be cut and sewn into a certain shape, covering the human head.

Hat first clothing, its characteristic mark for buckle wearing cover. Hat is an important part of the clothing accessories, in the development of clothing changes, the hat is also the corresponding development and change. Initially, the hat mainly played a warm or protective function, and later with the development of society, has become a symbol of human culture, status and identity.

For example, "Rites? Crown Yi" in: ? Crown, the beginning of the ritual. Therefore, the ancient sages and kings emphasize the crown. Crown and after the service is ready, service is ready and after the appearance of the body is correct, the color Qi, rhetoric and order. Description of the crown is a symbol of etiquette, wearing a crown is indeed out of the need for etiquette. Our country has always been? State of etiquette? reputation, the ancients regarded wearing a crown as sacred. In recent times for the hat and other first clothing wear has not been as important as before, the function of its symbolic level has gradually degraded, such as cotton hood, in addition to warmth and protection, its decorative function is greatly enhanced; especially children's hats, but also rich in strong social meanings, send people to the future of the desire for a better future.

Cap classification has a variety of ways, such as from the use of wind hat, cool hat, warm hat, rain hat, etc.; from the texture of felt hat, yarn hat, straw hat, bamboo hat, etc.; from the shape of the hat, hat, hat, square hat, hat, high hat, pointed hat, etc.; in addition, from the use of the occasions, etiquette, as well as the grade, can be divided into a hat, cap, hat, hat, and so on.

According to the appearance of the Han Chinese national costume in the hat first clothing is divided into: hemispherical, straight and diamond-shaped three forms.

1) hemispherical: cap body is hemispherical, the vast majority of the cap body over the human head. Ancient Chinese cap hemispherical first clothing can be divided into? Hooded skirt? and? No hat skirt? Two kinds. Hat skirt hat hemispherical first clothing, mainly to wind hat. Hat skirt, that is, the back of the cap hanging cloth, more for sheltering wind and sand and warmth. No hat skirt hat hemispherical first clothing, mainly after the Five Dynasties turban and the Ming dynasty hat.

2) straight cylindrical: the so-called cap straight cylindrical headgear, that is, the cap body is cylindrical to wear on top of the human head, which mainly includes a large crown of the Bent, the white hat, the hat and the Song and Ming period of the various types of scarf hat.

3) rhombus-shaped: the so-called cap class rhombus-shaped first clothing, that is, the cap body is irregular polygonal, such as the Wei and Jin dynasties popular white 帢, Yan 帢, no face 帢,etc..

Melon skin hat, felt hat, wind hat is commonly used folk hat. Melon skin cap inherited from the Ming dynasty six uniform cap form, Ming and Qing dynasty men wear a small cap, commonly known as small cap or cap, because of its shape and watermelon skin is similar to the name, the shape of the melon diamond-shaped, rounded top, under the brim, velvet knotted top, the cap has a soft and hard, the Republic of China period is also more common. Felt hat (made of felt hat, mostly farmers, vendors and other lower commonly used, the shape of a round and square, more complex style.

Wind hat, also known as the wind pocket, commonly known as the Guanyin pocket, a kind of warm hat to protect the wind and cold, half dome, both sides of the ear or can cover all parts of the head in addition to the face, cotton and folder, there is also useful for tweed or fur production, cap under the skirt, wear the pocket to cover the two ears, Phi and shoulders and back, is the main head of the winter in the northern regions of the clothing products.

Children's hats are the most interesting culture in the first dress. Tiger head cap is the most common form, its appearance of the pattern varies, the details of the carving is vivid and interesting, decorative. The external modeling of the tiger's head cap is not a figurative depiction of reality, but is created through the creation of an ideal image with spirituality and divinity.

Tiger hat is a folk imitation of the animal form and create a customary continuation of clothing, is to emotional ties, through certain artistic exaggeration, I hope to make the children healthy, lively growth and the future of the prayer, the performance of the Han people to protect the life of the psychological characteristics of folklore. The modeling is childish, the image is vivid and lovely, and the whole modeling is intertwined with love and affection. There is also a folk religious connotations for the performance of the blessing tool, in the small cap decorated with a lot of metal statues of Buddha, wear this cap as the gods in the protection of children, the moral is very straightforward.

Two, scarf

Scarf, wrapped with the head. In ancient times, civilians did not wear a crown, mostly in the hair bun covered with a scarf, in the labor and production time is also used as a cloth to wipe the sweat, can be described as a dual-purpose. Ancient books called? Scholar's crown and commoner's scarf? , referring to the people to wrap their heads in silk, which is typical of the people's first dress. Towel usually thick waterproof silk for the ancient ruler two feet two inches wide, and often called? The scarf is often referred to as the "wide scarf". Its type is not fixed, but wrapped in a different way and produce different styles. Towel shape with the development of history gradually diversified, more decorative, for the literati scholar class preferred, become the regular clothing of this class. Commoners often also have a special style of scarf style.

In ancient times, the scarf has a variety of forms, not only high and low points, there are front wrap, back wrap, upturned, folded and other changes, constituting a rich pattern. According to the appearance of the shape of the scarf will be divided into the first dress? New bun style? Towel hair style and? Wrapped head style three forms.

The so-called scarf-type chignon type of headgear refers to the use of cloth and silk tied in a way to fix the chignon.

The scarf-like tao-ha type of headgear refers to the use of cloth and silk rolled and folded into strips to wrap the hair bun. The form of which can be divided into two. The first, from front to back wrapped conical cap; the second, from the back to copy the front, tied in the forehead? The second is the conical cap, which is tied to the forehead from the back.

Towel wrapped head style headwear, is the use of cloth and silk wrapped in the head, tied behind the skull in the way. Among them, the main ones are the banner scarf, the turban and the turban before the Five Dynasties.

In recent times, the turban has evolved from the scarf to become the characteristic head dress. Ye Mengzhu of the Qing Dynasty described the bao head in his book "Reading the World" as follows: ? Today's world known as the head wrap, also known as the ancient head wrap. Ancient or brocade for it. The former dynasty winter with black silk; summer with black yarn. Each about two inches wide, twice as long.

South of the wrapped head style as long as the triangle wrapped head, its sense of form and sense of composition are very unique, very striking. Spread like an isosceles trapezoid, the short side is generally 60 to 70 centimeters, the long side is generally 100 to 110 centimeters, 25 to 28 centimeters wide. The beveled edges are slightly curved. Attached to each end of the top is a sword-head band, or a rope with a tassel, about 10 centimeters in length, intended to be used to close the top.

And if the head of the head of the binding to wear the end, the whole is a three-dimensional triangle, there is a small hollow triangle above the back of the head, the hair bun thus exposed; the remaining part of the head scarf in the shoulders and neck hanging down, forming two long and pointed tail fork, overlapping, similar to the swallow tail of the triangular trailing horns. So it is called? Triangular head wrap?