The Origin and Development of Hanfu Culture

(58 1 year -960)

Sui dynasty (58 1 year -6 18)

Tang dynasty (6 18-907)

Five Dynasties (907-960)

In 58 1 year, the Sui Dynasty was established, ending the 400-year division since the Eastern Han Dynasty. This is a feudal unified country re-established after Qin and Han dynasties, and it is a new national identity centered on the Han nationality. North and South clothing imitate each other, and the industry is close to despair. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of feudal society in China, which opened the most brilliant chapter in ancient China. During the Tang Dynasty, the country was stable, the economy was prosperous, the cultural undertakings developed in an all-round way, and the feudal culture reached its peak. After a long period of inheritance, evolution and development, the Tang Dynasty costumes in the past 300 years have become an extremely important period in the development of China costumes. On the one hand, the costumes of the Tang Dynasty inherited the system of crown clothing in previous dynasties, which inspired the dress styles of later generations; On the other hand, the development of costumes in the Tang Dynasty was inclusive and was widely adopted and collected. After the Tang Dynasty, the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms were the continuation of the feudal warlord regime in the Tang and Song Dynasties, and generally followed the system of the Tang Dynasty in dress. The costumes in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, whether official or civilian, men's or women's, all showed an open mind and pioneering spirit, which fully reflected the distinctive times and strong nationality.

Tang costume is the main dress of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. Silk, also known as "painted silk", is usually woven with a thin layer of yarn with pictures and patterns printed on it. The length is generally more than two meters. When in use, it is draped over the shoulders and rolled between the arms. Women in the Tang Dynasty took plump figure as beauty. Because of the plump figure, women's dresses in the middle Tang Dynasty became wider and wider, and the skirt width was much larger than that in the late Sui and early Tang Dynasties. Although the clothes are made in small sleeve, they tend to be loose compared with the women's clothes in the early Tang Dynasty and the prosperous Tang Dynasty.

After the Tang Dynasty, the influence of Khufu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's clothes became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, aristocratic dresses were usually worn on important occasions, such as attending the Senate, attending ceremonies and getting married. Wearing this kind of clothes, there are golden flowers in the hair, so it is also called "hairpin gift clothes". The style of big sleeve shirt skirt is big sleeve double-breasted and long skirt with silk. It is a characteristic of clothing in the Tang Dynasty to use gauze as the material of women's clothing, which is closely related to the open thought at that time. In particular, wearing only veil without underwear is a pioneering work. The so-called "skin can be seen in thin lines when the front edge continues" is a summary of this kind of clothing.

Sui and Tang Dynasties also produced an important variant of Hanfu-round neck shirt. Round neck style appeared very early in the clothing history of China, but it was not until Sui and Tang Dynasties that it became popular and became an official costume. This kind of clothing lasted for the Tang Dynasty, the Five Dynasties, the Song Dynasty and the Ming Dynasty, and had a great influence on Japan, Korea and other countries. It is very common for men to wrap their heads and wear round neck robes in the Tang Dynasty, among which the robe with the lead is the most important. Wotou, also known as Fu Tou, is a primitive costume formed on the basis of the Han and Wei Dynasties. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament to the hoe, called "towel". The shape of towels varies from time to time. Besides towels, many changes have taken place in the feet of steamed bread. By the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the original soft foot had become a hard foot with one left and one right.

It should be pointed out that the popularity of this round neck Hanfu variant does not mean the disappearance of the traditional right-handed Hanfu. In fact, even in the most popular Tang Dynasty, it was mostly confined to areas centered on Chang 'an, and between officials and members of the royal family. However, between wuyue and other areas and ordinary people, this kind of Hanfu was mainly big-chested and right-handed, and it was similar in the Song and Ming Dynasties. In the Tang Dynasty, in addition to wearing round neck and narrow sleeves, officials still wore dresses on some important occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies. Most of the styles of clothing inherited the old system of Sui Dynasty, such as wearing a belt or cage crown, double-breasted big sleeve shirts, skirts, and ribbons from Yu Pei. Hanfu with round neck, like Hanfu with collar, is an important part of China national costume.

Hanfu in song dynasty

(960- 1279)

Song dynasty (960- 1279)

Song Dynasty is a highly developed dynasty in economy, science and technology and culture. Agriculture, shipbuilding, textile and paper industry have reached new heights, and gunpowder, compass and printing technology have been invented. Generally speaking, the costumes in Song Dynasty can be divided into official clothes and casual clothes. Official clothes are divided into imperial clothes and public clothes. Palace costumes are used in important occasions such as court meetings and sacrifices. They are all made of Zhu's clothes and skirts. They wear and line clothes of different colors and textures, and have corresponding crowns. Official clothes are official clothes, with round neck and big sleeves, a belt around the waist, steamed bread on the head and shoes made of leather shoes or silk and hemp on the feet. According to the regulations, all senior officials who are qualified to wear purple and scarlet uniforms must wear "fish bags" decorated with gold and silver in the shape of fish. People were only allowed to wear white clothes. Later, foreigners, juren and Shu Ren were allowed to wear black clothes. But in real life, folk costumes are colorful, and they are not imaginative at all.

Women's clothing in the Song Dynasty-The clothing worn by ordinary women in the Song Dynasty includes coats, fur coats, shirts, backpacks, half-arms, skirts, pants and other clothing styles. In Song Dynasty, women mainly wore skirts, but they also had pants. The costumes of women in Song Dynasty are similar to those of women in Han Dynasty. They are all slender, with narrow sleeves and crossed collars, wearing elegant long skirts in various colors. Yan and coat are basically similar clothes, the form is relatively short, and the lower body is matched with a skirt. Red and purple are the main colors, followed by yellow. The style of government skirts in Song Dynasty is basically the same as that in Tang Dynasty. The decoration on the car body is not complicated. In addition to silk, only a jade ring ornament is added to the ribbon worn in the middle of the waist. Its main function is to suppress the skirt so that it is not affected by the wind when walking or moving. The "Yuhuan Ribbon" mentioned in the history books is this kind of decoration.

A coat called Xunzi was popular in Song Dynasty. In Song Dynasty, Xunzi had long sleeves, a long body and a crotch under his arm, that is, the clothes were not sewn back and forth, but there were belts under his arm and back suffix. The double belt under the armpit could have been used to tie the front and back skirts, but the raccoon in the Song Dynasty didn't tie it, but hung it for decoration, which means imitating the form of the ancient single (underwear) cross-belt, which means "it's good to stay old." When you wear a robe, you tie it around your waist with silk. There are three kinds of lapels in Song Dynasty: straight lapels and double lapels, oblique lapels and disc lapels, among which straight lapels are the most. Oblique collar and disc collar are only worn by men under public service, while women wear straight collar and double-breasted style. Housewives with status wear big sleeves. Maids-in-waiting and concubines wear clothes with crotch under their arms, which is more convenient to walk. Women's dresses in Song Dynasty were short at first, and then lengthened, and developed into a standard format with sleeves larger than shirts and skirts.