Three lives, three lives, one shoulder cloud.

The original text is transferred from the craft network.

Even people who don't know anything about China's traditional costumes will be happy when they hear the word "Cloud Shoulder" for the first time.

In the field of a large number of traditional clothing terms that are no longer used today, the word "cloud shoulder" can not only make people guess its use, but also derive many beautiful and ethereal reverie. The cloud shawl and peach blossom face are in line with our longing for the old beauty.

Justin and Zhang Xinyi got married, and Zhang Xinyi wore a red Hanfu customized by Lawrence Xu when welcoming guests. The most special feature of this dress lies in the exquisite embroidery design of the shoulder collar, which hides an important dress element that runs through the history of China and is extremely dreamy and beautiful-the cloud shoulder.

Although the cloud shoulder is a small decorative fabric for the shoulder, it has three completely different origins.

There is an obvious time gap between the three, just like three generations of fireworks, and each life has its own unique love.

For the first time, I was feathered by Feilong and picked Ganoderma lucidum in Penglai, the East.

The embryonic form of cloud shoulder is the feather clothes of ancient immortals.

In the murals of Buqianqiu Tomb in the Western Han Dynasty, Nu Wa Fuxi wore a feather coat on her shoulder. Unlike western angels, this "feather coat" does not have the physical strength to take off like wings. Feather clothing is very small and delicate, light blue, with some accessories, gently draped over the shoulders.

The ancients outlined the legendary beautiful vision of "feathering into immortality" in the ancient tomb with unique arc brushwork.

Once upon a time, the Queen Mother of the West was not the Queen Mother, but the Queen who lived on the Kunlun Mountain in the west. According to legend, Zhou Muwang dreamed of this woman who was far away in the west, so he drove an eight-horse chariot and led the army of six divisions all the way to the west to find her in JiuWan Li. The two of them chatted happily in Yaochi, and they were inseparable.

This semi-historical and semi-mythical record in Mu Zhuan makes people jump and jump, as if they were in an era when immortals and mortals were together. The mural painting of tomb No.5 in Dingjiazha, Jiuquan during the Sixteen Kingdoms period vividly depicts this scene. The Queen Mother of the West sat under the canopy in feather clothes, misty and dancing with dragons and phoenixes.

Old actors wearing cloud shoulders have different styles, colors and shapes.

Feather is not a real wing, but it is the most imaginative wing.

When we don't know much about the universe, we are closest to all mysterious forces. At that time, we believed that as long as we put on this down jacket, we could touch the fascinating mystery after death. Therefore, it is not only the immortals that have been passed down to this day, but also people in feathers, men and women, and even the images of beasts in coir.

Later, feather clothes gradually became a kind of shoulder clothing decoration with cloud-like curves. It has become the inherent image of a fairy or an ancient legend. Occasionally it will be used on maiko's shoulders, just like the ancients used maiko as a metaphor for immortals.

The second practice is to hammer a purple rope and embroider a cloud shoulder jade tassel with gold.

In a previous life, Yunjian changed from a "fairy" to a "mortal". In this life, Yun Jian came from a foreign land.

The Central Plains designed costumes for etiquette, while nomadic people designed costumes for riding and shooting.

A kind of shawl called "Jaha" is recorded in "Kao Customs": "It is pointed around the shoulder and shaped like a dustpan. It is hung on the shoulder from left to right and must be made of brocade mink. This style has existed since the Liao Dynasty. " Jaha, who can protect his chest and back without obstacles when riding, is very popular among nomadic people.

Zhang Zhou's "Moon Xi Gui Han Tu" depicts Wang Zhaojun wearing Jaha, riding on horseback and wearing a fur hat. My hair and clothes fluttered in the wind, and I tried my best to go on the road, but Jaha, who had clouds on his shoulders, did not move.

During the Liao and Jin Dynasties, nomadic people invaded the Central Plains again and again, which was also a forced cultural exchange again and again. Jaha was introduced into the Central Plains, and it also changed from the initial practicality to decoration.

The Red Robes of Four Animals Collected by Confucius in Ming Dynasty

As the last Han Dynasty, the Ming Dynasty carried out a very "ritualized" transformation of this cloud shoulder decoration. Firstly, it combines this cloud shoulder pattern with the horizontal reed to make the "cloud shoulder sleeve knee reed", which becomes a special dress with its rich and luxurious appearance. The red robes of the four beasts of the Ming Dynasty collected by Confucius are decorated with four beasts: Kirin, Avenger, Lion and Tiger. This is the official dress, and the cloud shoulder pattern has not only covered the shoulders, but also spread to the whole chest. In the Ming Dynasty, the robes of the Emperor Jiao Ling were even more exquisite. The golden dragon with five claws was directly embroidered on the shoulders, and it was rich and powerful with moire and Tang grass.

The realization of Yun Jian in this life is the product of the peak of China's ancient knitting skills, and its magnificent momentum and exquisite skills are hard to recover now.

The third red collar, her towel; But to my surprise, there are new thorns on the scarf between my collars.

Borrow a beautiful picture of an empress to tell you vividly what a dovetail hairstyle is.

The first two generations of "Cloud Shoulder" were actually used by men. The reason why it became a symbol of women benefited from the fact that women in the late Ming Dynasty were "not beautiful if they don't do it". At this time, it is very popular for women to wear a low-hanging dovetail hairstyle at the back of their heads. Now it is very common in Qing Dynasty dramas, and it sticks slightly behind the neck like a swallow's tail.

In order to keep it up, it must be repaired with a lot of head oil. In the past, most clothes were made of pure silk, so delicate! But it can't stop women from loving beauty. I don't know who said it: why not put a handkerchief on your shoulder and separate your hairstyle from your clothes? As a result, the "cloud shoulder" of this life was born, which opened the most magnificent era of cloud shoulder.

Four in one cloud sword

Falling cloud shoulder

Multi-piece cloud shoulder

At first, Yun Jian's aesthetic was restrained and restrained, but with the passage of time, women's ability to transform, like the power of the wild, broke out in Yun Jian.

At this time, the most basic cloud shoulder is to design the hanging parts in four directions (chest, back and shoulders) as a wishful head, which looks dignified and generous. If it is a multi-layer cloud shoulder, there will be more overlapping changes of Ruyi head, and the patterns and colors will be different. It can also be decorated with bells, ears, streamers and other things, which collide with the wearer's movements and swaying, graceful and charming. More importantly, the parts are directly connected by silk thread instead of sewing, not customized but tangible, smart and elegant.

Lotus cloud shoulder (double layer)

There is also a cloud shoulder that does not stick to the basic shape in four directions, and is surrounded by more than 20 willow petals. When you wear it, you just wear it around your neck, setting off your cheeks like a lotus flower core, which is delicate and delicate. Each petal can be embroidered with patterns with the same theme but different contents, which can be single-layer or multi-layer. It can be seen from a distance or from a distance, which is a test of the production process.

Come to think of it carefully, if the women in the late Ming Dynasty crossed to the present, they would all be skilled craftsmen.

Chiayi in late Qing dynasty

By the end of the Qing Dynasty, the cloud shoulder had risen to the height of women's wear in China, which was already layered and decorated in a complicated way. Putting the cloud shoulder on the shoulder was quite icing on the cake.

For many girls in ordinary families, the only dress with cloud shoulders is the wedding dress. Many places have the tradition of making wedding dresses with cloud shoulders.

It is conceivable that marriage is the most beautiful and important day in the life of women in the old society. What expectations do they have for designing and making this wedding dress? No matter how bold the color is and how complicated the style is, it can't hide the beauty of Yunjian. Layers of clouds are like colorful clouds, luxurious and exquisite.