Tang Dynasty Women's Clothes in History

The most unforgettable of all Chinese costume arts is the Tang Dynasty women's costume art. With its many styles, brilliant colors, innovative methods, elegant and gorgeous unique style, Tang Dynasty women's clothing has become one of the richest and most magnificent chapters in the history of ancient Chinese clothing. It bears the source of history, the next start the path of the later generations, and other arts **** with the creation of the Tang Dynasty brilliant culture, in the history of Chinese clothing and even the world's clothing history has written a stunning.

Tang Dynasty women's clothing evolved rapidly, expressive. In the three hundred years of history of the Tang Dynasty, women's clothing is more varied, the most popular "襦裙服", "胡服", "女着男装", three kinds of matching clothing.

One

R襦裙 has appeared as early as in the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, is the traditional attire for women in the ancient Chinese Central Plains. In the Tang Dynasty, the "襦裙服" consisted of a short jacket or blouse on top, a skirt underneath, a poncho, and sometimes a half-arm coat. It was very popular among Tang women to wear a narrow jacket with different necklines, such as a chicken-center neckline, a round neckline, a square neckline, a slanting neckline, and so on. By the time of the Tang Dynasty, it was also popular to wear a kind of bare collar without underwear, exposing the whole chest, which could be seen as the cleavage of women's breasts. This is a bold sexy design in the history of the evolution of Chinese clothing, from the side to reflect the enlightenment of the social thinking at that time and the openness of the fashion, is the embodiment of the courageous spirit of the Tang women to express their own beauty, is the first time that Chinese women in feudal society in the air of freedom to shape the image of the important symbol of the self-image. The so-called "pink chest half covered with suspicion of dark snow", "chest like snow face like flowers", is to aria this open exposed collar modeling. Women wearing long skirts underneath, skirt types are colorful, in brilliant, varied and coordinated style, fully demonstrated the Tang Dynasty complex and luxurious clothing fashion. Skirt waist lift extremely high to the armpits, tied with a silk belt, giving a sense of playfulness and slenderness. At that time, women to multi-fabric production of long skirts for the fashion, this long skirt has a single color and multi-color points, multi-color known as intercolor skirt or tuck skirt, skirt color bright, more in the different. The color has Zhu green, Zhu yellow and other matching, monochrome to red, purple, green, yellow, green and white for the popularity of which the pomegranate red skirt popular for the longest time. The May Song of Yanjing describes: "Pomegranate blossoms are burning in the streets, and the branches are all crashing into the clouds, and thousands of families can't buy enough of them, leaving their children to dye their red skirts."

The Tang Dynasty is also popular bird skirt, Wu Zetian's granddaughter, Li Xian's daughter, Princess Anle dress extravagantly, in the entire Tang Dynasty is unprecedented. She ordered the court special bird skirt, is a variety of bird feathers twisted into a line, with silk woven together into a fabric made of skirt. Its color and lustre, changeable, is looking for a color, anti-look is a color, daylight in a color, shadow is a color, and can show a hundred birds form, can be described as a masterpiece of art. This skirt was worth millions of dollars, aristocratic women to catch up with the fashion competition, resulting in "the mountains and forests of strange birds and animals, searching the mountains and valleys, sweeping the ground. It fully demonstrates the amazing appeal of the ancient fashion, but also from another angle to reflect the extreme psychology of noble women in pursuit of fashion. After the Middle Tang Dynasty, the wind of Hu culture gave way to traditional culture, the shape of the skirt has changed, mainly in the skirt train longer, wider skirt. In the Sheng Tang Dynasty, women were popular with the full-bodied type, especially in the Middle and Late Tang Dynasties. In the late Tang women's clothing style not only did not tend to decline, but more opulent, elegant and luxurious, women's pleated wide skirt is very popular. Zhou's "Hairpin Lady" vividly depicts the shape of this wide skirt with a train.

Tang Dynasty women also popularized a short-sleeved shirt, called "half-arm". Half arm length and waist, generally with a placket, worn in front of the chest knot, there are also a few "pullover" style neckline is wide, bare-chested. This kind of dress can be traced back to the Han Dynasty. During the Wei, Jin, and North and South Dynasties, half-armed people were not common, and it was not until after the Sui Dynasty that the number of women wearing half-armed clothes gradually increased. In the early Tang Dynasty, it became popular among the people and became a kind of regular dress. In the Sheng Tang Dynasty, it became fashionable to wear a half-arm over a jacket, and it was also very popular to wear a silk scarf on the back of the shoulders, which was called "phi pali". To light gauze cut, printed with various prints, wrapped between the arms, walking, with the arm swinging and fluttering, so that women have added a soft and dashing, flavorful flavor. Ancient Chinese women's clothing in the Sui and Tang dynasties to form this light and airy style, the influence of the later generations of several dynasties.

Two

Tang women's most distinctive costumes to be counted in the hu clothing and women dressed in men's clothing, which is a major feature of the dress of the flourishing period of feudal society, the reason for this, one is the opening up of the society, women's freedom of dress is very large; the second by the northwestern ethnic groups and the impact of foreign clothing; three is the role of women's hunt for novelty and the inherent role of the different psychological attire. Hu clothing, women dressed in men's clothing, these two kinds of clothing mainly popular in the early Tang Dynasty to the Tang Dynasty, the wearer does not distinguish between inferiority and superiority, and sometimes also influence each other, or mixed wear in a body.

The Warring States period, Zhao Wuling Wang put forward the "Hu clothing riding shot" had set off the earliest clothing reform in China. Since ancient times, the custom of the Han people in the central plains is good for singing and dancing. Since the Han through the Western Regions to the Sui and Tang dynasties, through the Silk Road to bring exotic customs and culture, and once again for the broad-minded people of the Tang Dynasty to accept. Especially in Chang'an, the capital of the Tang Dynasty, the prosperity of music and dance reached its peak, in addition to inheriting and promoting the traditional dance, the dance of the Western Regions is also rapidly popularized within the Tang Dynasty. The "good Hu" style of the upper class guided the aesthetic trend of the whole society, and this trend has been spreading to the people. The music and dance from the western region, sharp as the wind, powerful and robust, as well as pleasing dance costumes, so that the Tang Dynasty people refreshing, eye-opening. "Hu wine", "Hu dance", "Hu music", "Hu clothing" became the prevailing fashion in Chang'an. After the popularity of hu dance in the country, it became the main entertainment in people's daily life, and the people tried their best to imitate the hu people, with hu make-up and hu clothes as the beauty. The women in the central plains wore 襦裙服, which was also influenced by Hu culture, and formed the clothing characteristic of "narrow sleeves". The popularity of hu dance and the popularity of hu clothing is an important factor affecting women's attire in the Tang Dynasty, and even make the Chinese national costume in the Tang Dynasty shows the characteristics of mutation, leaving a deep imprint of foreign culture.

Hu clothing mingled into the Central Plains, to the Tang Dynasty has been hundreds of years of history, the Tang Dynasty Hu clothing is not purely a northwestern national dress, but a wide range of many northern national dress of the long and into a large number of Western, Persian, Indian dress culture style, is a variety of cultural fusion, compatibility and innovation of the typical examples. The hu clothes of the Tang Dynasty have profound cultural connotations, representing the changes in the Tang people's habits of absorbing foreign cultures and living habits.

The main features of Hu clothing are simplicity and convenience. Such as wearing a brocade embroidered hat, wearing a lapel narrow-sleeved brocade robe, wearing striped small pants, wearing hollow soft brocade boots, there are a number of small belts hanging down the waist, this belt is called a mincing belt, the original is also the attire of the northern nomadic people. But in the folk, especially among women, very popular this mincing belt, just omit the original "seven things", and changed into a narrow strip of leather with a short and long as the decoration of the costume, jewelry modeling is also quite exotic colors. This in Xi'an Qianxian Yongle Princess tomb unearthed murals, ceramic figurines have a lot of reflection.

Tang Dynasty Hu clothing fabrics and decorative patterns with the combination of Chinese and Western decorative features. Embroidered with the popular Greek and Roman Lonicera, Persian winged beasts, joint pearl pattern, camel, lion and so on in Central and Western Asia. Tang culture absorbed foreign culture, greatly enriched the types of clothing fabric patterns, so that the clothing fabric more contemporary and artistic infectivity, which from one side reflects the high degree of development of Tang society and culture, but also reflects a major feature of the Tang dress eclectic, while the Tang women wore hu clothes show the robust and courageous masculinity of the beauty of the Tang women's clothing for the originally gorgeous and added a richly colored. A colorful color.

Three

Women dressed in men's clothing is another major feature of the Tang Dynasty social prosperity period clothing. This kind of attire was first popular in the palace, and then gradually popularized to the folk, loved by the majority of women. Wearing a turban on the head, wearing a round-necked robe, wearing leather boots, is the attire of men in the Tang Dynasty for three hundred years. From the early Tang Dynasty Yan Liben's "Steps in the Emperor's carriage" to Gu Ma-zhong's "Han Xizai's Night Banquet" in the Five Dynasties period, the linkage of paintings in different periods shows that this kind of attire was very popular among men from the emperor on down to the common people in the Tang Dynasty for more than three hundred years. This sense of dress also had a penetrating influence on Tang women. Tang Dynasty women like to wear a typical men's clothing, galloping across the horse, from the Tang Dynasty painter Zhang Xuan's "Lady Guo Guo tour of spring country" and Zhou's "waving the fan in the picture of the ladies, you can see that the women dressed in men's clothing in the beautiful and playful, but also a handsome and suave demeanor.

Women dressed in men's clothing in feudal China is extremely rare, Confucianism believes that "men and women do not pass clothes". Women with men's clothing is considered to be ungodly, and in the Tianbao years women with men's clothing has been not uncommon, indicating that since the Han Dynasty, Confucianism on women's shackles to some extent was broken. At the same time, it also shows that women in the Tang Dynasty had a great passion for novelty, pursuing changes and innovations in clothing, and could boldly wear men's clothing and hu clothes to fully express themselves. At the same time they are in the hair bun and face makeup on the competition, the Tang society to dress up a colorful and beautiful. This is the inevitable result of the strong, open, developed, civilized, broad and free Tang Dynasty.

Tang women's clothing is unique in the ancient and modern, colorful clothing, beautiful and gorgeous, makeup of the strange and varied, world-famous. It is the best women's costumes of all times. We can y feel the strong national spirit and extreme sense of creativity, which is the first time that women in Chinese feudal society got rid of the shackles of feudalism and showed the important signs of self-image. There is no artifice here, nor the posture of twisted and reserved, showing in front of people is full of vitality, the spirit of the times of freedom, inspiring and mesmerizing Tang Dynasty women's clothing art. As a carrier of Chinese culture and its spirit, it has deep cultural connotations, reflecting the diversity, compatibility and uniqueness of Tang culture, and is still a source of creation for costume designers in China and even around the world today.