Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - The ancient hairpin method.

The ancient hairpin method.

In ancient times, women's hairstyles and crowns not only increased the beauty of women's looks, but also reflected their age and identity characteristics. There are more than 100 kinds of steamed buns recorded in Jipin. Although there are many names of steamed buns, they are basically named according to the shape and decoration of steamed buns. For example, steamed buns shaped like snails are called snails, and steamed buns decorated with phoenix are called phoenix steamed buns. In ancient times, women's hair styles were basically changed according to comb, pin, knot, plate, stack and sideburns, and then decorated with various jewelry such as hairpin, hairpin, step shake and beading. Therefore, the study of female hairstyle is mainly to explore its carding form and law. According to ancient works and records, it can be divided into six categories: knot type, twist type, disc type, knot type, trans type and double hanging type. First, the knot comb weaving method, first tie the hair at the top, then tie it with silk rope, bend it into a knot, support it with pillars, stand high above the head or on both sides, and then decorate it with various gold ornaments, which are noble and gorgeous, and are mostly used for goddesses, empresses, ladies and virgins. For example, Li's Goddess of Vimalakīrti and Lang's Du Qiuniang all belong to this hairstyle. In the murals of Yongle Palace, there are many hairstyles, such as high, double, flat and hanging, which vary a lot: ★ Flying fairy bun, Lingyun bun ★ Flying fairy bun is mostly tied on both sides. According to "Grilled Hub", "When Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, the Queen Mother descended to earth, and the fairy buns were different. The emperor ordered the palace to be effective, and the number was Feixian Steamed Bun. " Mostly used for fairies and maidens. Lingyun bun belongs to a single style with high style. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, "After the imperial edict, I combed Lingyun's bun, Yincui gorge combed Wang Xian's nine-eared bun, and Jiufei combed Shen Luan's bun." These are all of high style. ★ Tian Fei Street is divided into small bun ★ "Tian Fei Street" is tied to it and stands upright. According to "Song Wuxing", "In the sixth year of Yuanjia, folk women scored three points, which is called flying." The ancient "Hundred Flowers" hairstyle also belongs to this type. Hair in a bun, mostly the hairstyle of a girl who has never left the room. Divide the hair into strands, tie the knot at the top, so that it hangs naturally without leaning, and tie the tail of the hair on the shoulder, also known as dovetail. According to Guo Xi An Yu Jia, "Emperor Han Ming ordered court officials to comb flowers to make buns." In the Tang Dynasty, it was often used as a symbol of virgin hairstyle. [1] Second, the twist comb weaving method is to divide the hair into several strands, twist it like a twist, and tie it on the top of the head or on both sides. This hairstyle is very elastic and can rotate freely, which is very helpful for beauty. According to Cai Lan magazine, "After Zhen entered the palace, there was a green snake in the palace. After changing clothes every day, form a bun and shape it before and after. Because of its different effects, the bun is different every day, and the number is Lingshe bun. " For example, the fairy in The Eighty-Seven Immortals and the fan in the picture of Tang Zhou's ladies also belong to this hairstyle. There are generally several forms of rotation changes, such as lateral rotation, cross rotation and overlapping rotation. ★ Suiyun bun and Xu Ling bun ★ "Suiyun bun" is similar to the form of lateral twist, and its bun rolls with the clouds. According to "Guo Xian Jia Yi", "Chen Gong combs her hair." This hairstyle is vivid and ingenious, which is very popular with ladies. "Xu Ling bun" belongs to the form of cross-twist, and its bun is cross-twist and hangs on the top. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, there are Xu Lingji and Xiangyun Ji in Sui Dynasty. This hairstyle is like a cloud, shaking but not falling on the Lingtuo. The eighty-ninth time in A Dream of Red Mansions: I saw Daiyu wearing a fur coat embroidered with moonlight and a silver mouse vest; Wearing a long cloud bun and a red gold plaque on the hairpin, there is no flower; Yang Fei embroidered cotton skirt is tied at the waist. Really, for example, elegant trees stand in the wind, and Xiang Lian in Ran Ran is exposed. ★ Chaoshan Jinyun Ji Xiang and Huanxin Ji ★ "Chaoshan Jinyun Ji Xiang" is similar to the form of overlapping twist, and its weaving method is to twist the hair into strands and overlap at the top, which is vivid and stable. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, "In the great cause, imperial court officials combed clouds and approached incense buns." This hairstyle is unique and interesting. This hairstyle is also found in the eighty-seven fairy scrolls. The winding bun is similar to the winding form, and its weaving method is to twist the hair into strands and tie it to the back or front of the head. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, "Liang Wudi court officials combed their hearts." This hairstyle can also be found in the anonymous Yin Zhen Flight to Le Tu Ping in the Qing Dynasty. Third, the method of disc stacking and comb weaving is to tie the hair bundles together and then fold them on the top of the head or on both sides, which is called "snail bun". There is a saying in the Ci of Ninggong that "the bun is fragrant and fragrant, and the hairstyle prevailed in the Tang Dynasty, which can be seen in the existing paintings and tomb murals in the Tang Dynasty. The murals of Princess Yongtai's tomb and the fairies in the Eighty-Seven Immortals are all similar to this hairstyle. This hairstyle is beautiful and decorative, and is favored by empresses and ladies. There are many varieties, such as single snail, double snail, lily bun and Panheng bun. ★ Single snail, double snail ★ The carding method of single snail is to gather the strands and stack them like snails. Overhead, there are also some hairlike carvings in the sarcophagus of Princess Yongtai's tomb in the west and north. Double helix comb method is to divide the hair into two strands and tie a knot at two top corners, also known as "double angle". This hairstyle is also found in the murals of Karazhuo's tomb, and the bun is beautiful and elegant. ★ Lily bun, lingering bun★ "Lily bun" is combed and knotted with net hair and folded on the top of the head. As shown in the figure. The combing method of "Piao bun" is to curl hair and pile it on the top of the head, which is called "Piao bun". According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, "Chang 'an women are tied up in knots, and there are endless ways to tie them up, until today. "Fourth, the knotted knotted combing method is to tie the hair on the top of the head, in front of the head, behind the head or on both sides, and then bind it with silk rope, roll it into a vertebra, a vertebra or a vertebra, pass it through with a hairpin and stand upright on the head. According to "The Origin of Things", "Sun Shou is a horse bun, Zhao Hede is a palace curly hair, and Meng Guang is a vertebral bun. "they are all similar to the knot, suggesting caution and gentleness. From Shang and Zhou Dynasties to Qin and Han Dynasties, Sui and Tang Dynasties, Song and Yuan Dynasties, Ming and Qing Dynasties, it was extended and changed. There are mainly several categories, such as high-ridged bun, throwing home bun and falling horse bun. ★ High-ridged bun, leaving home bun★ "High-ridged bun" is to tie the hair at the top, pull it into a single vertebra, and stand on the top of the head to comb it. According to "Dressing Table", "Song Lizong combs a high-pitched bun at the top, towering and towering. "This hairstyle was also found in the female sculptures of Jinci Temple in Taiyuan, Shanxi Province in the Song Dynasty. The combing method of "swinging a bun at home" is to pull the spine on the top of your head into a bun, lengthen your temples, and hold your face with tape. According to the Five Classics of Tang Dynasty, it is recorded that "the fake temples of the imperial concubine are jewelry, which is called Yi bun, and the wife of Nuo religion is very anxious to tie her hair as a prisoner bun, while the women in the late Tang Dynasty comb her hair in two buns and hold her face as a family bun". Today, the role of Beijing Opera is still expanding. ★ Tilting bun, falling horse bun ★ The comb method of tilting bun is to divide the hair into strands, twist it into vertebrae, and put the tail of the hair on the front or side of the head, which is quite common in ladies' paintings. The Book of Jin said: "Princess Taiyuan, you must put a bun on your temples." The combing method of falling horse bun is to tie the hair together into a big spine, and tie a silk rope in the middle of the spine, which looks like a horse's belly and falls on the side or back of the head. According to the "Original Records", "Sun Shou is a horse's bun." Notes on Ancient and Modern China also records that "the falling horse bun is just a Japanese bun, and the cloud: the shape of falling horse is also". Five, the anti-10,000-style anti-10,000-style combing method is to gather the hair, gather it back at the top, and then turn it into various forms, such as double knives, which is called "turning knife bun". Wancheng, a frightened bird, wants to fly. This is the so-called "Jinggu steamed bun". Cheng Yuanbao is called "Yuanbao steamed bun". Turn it into a high wall, which is called "high bun" and "flower beauty figure" according to the records in Dressing Table. "In Kaiyuan, the comb was turned into a crane bun, and the noble lady made a worry bun. In Zhenyuan, it was really a bun with five colors of flowers." This kind of anti-comb is difficult to weave and prevailed in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. It is the dress of the empresses and ladies, such as the anti-comb style in Han Xizai's night banquet. Its changes generally include "double-edged steamed bun", "surprised steamed bun", "Chaotian steamed bun" and "Yuanbao steamed bun". ★ Double-knife bun ★ The combing method of double-knife bun is to tie the hair at the top and then turn it into double knives. According to "Dressing Table", "Wude in Tang Dynasty wore a bun in the palace. Comb the bun upside down, comb it back to the real bun in Zhenyuan and paste it with five-color flowers. " It's all about the opposite hairstyle. "Stunning bun" is also one of the reverse styles. Its combing method is to pull up the hair and turn it upside down, so that the frightened birds want to spread their wings, which is vivid and interesting. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, people in Wei Palace like to draw long eyebrows, which makes them surprised by moths. ★ Chaotian bun, Yuanbao bun ★ Chaotian bun is also a kind of reverse, and its knitting method will be tied up and tied to it. Then turn it into a high bun. According to records, "Song Lizong combed a high bun on the top of the palace princess's head and said," If you don't go down, you should dish it up. "The female statue of Taiyuan Jinci built in the Song Dynasty is similar to this hairstyle. The combing method of Yuanbao bun is to tie the hair at the top, and then cover the wood or wig in a cage, showing the shape of Yuanbao. According to the Book of Jin, "Since a lot of hair is used, it is impossible to carry it constantly, so put it on a wooden cage first, which is called a fake bun or a fake head. "This hairstyle is similar to the female figurines unearthed in the tomb of the Tang couple. Six, double hanging double hanging comb method, is to divide the hair on the top of the head into two strands, comb it into a symmetrical bun or hair circle, and the two sides are relatively suspended. This hairstyle is mostly used for maids, maids, maids or underage girls. According to records, from the Qin Dynasty to modern times, the most typical ones are Shuangji and Twin Bun, which are especially common in the preserved ancient paintings. This hairstyle is similar to the maid of the provider of the Thousand Buddha Cave in Dunhuang and the maid-in-waiting of Yan's Liedi Tu. Its changes generally include "double bun", "hanging bun" and "double flat bun". ★ Double bun and hanging bun ★ Double bun is the most common hairstyle in double bun, and its combing method is to divide the hair into two sides, then comb it into a bun and place it on both sides of the head. The extra burden is decorated with drooping hair, commonly known as bangs, which is generally used for maids and maids. The combing method of double hanging bun is to divide the hair into two strands from the top of the head. Tie it in a bun or hang it on both sides, and decorate your forehead with hanging hair. According to "Dan Yin Lu", "the clothing of the harem in the Northern Qi Dynasty, the female official is eight products, which is biased. (Note: The hair hangs down to cover the eyes, which is the decoration of girls in the Li Dynasty. Its four short hairs only cover the eyebrows, while the long hair on the top of the head is wrapped in a bun. The so-called temples in the Song Dynasty were also one-sided with lotus leaves. There are still some in this world ") and it is similar to this hairstyle. ★ Double-flat bun and hair ★ Double-flat bun belongs to the double-hanging comb weaving method, and its comb weaving method is to divide the hair evenly on both sides. Then tie it into a circle and make it symmetrical and vertical. Hanging on both sides. This hairstyle is quite common in ladies' pictures, and is mostly used for unmarried girls or children. Hair is the hairstyle of children or unmarried girls. The combing method is to divide the hair into two strands, symmetrically tie them into two vertebrae, and place them on both sides of the top of the head, and lead out a small lock of hair in the bun. Let it droop naturally. Lotus crown: This picture is recorded in the lotus crown carved by a female in Jinci, Taiyuan. Its crown is like a lotus, decorated with golden jade, tied to the top bun. How easy it was for women in the Tang and Song Dynasties. Corolla: There is only one bun in the crown, and there are many flowers on the crown, which is more useful for ladies in the Ming Dynasty. This picture is taken from the corolla of Tang Yin's Shu Meng Palace Prostitute. Guan Feng: This painting is taken from Guan Feng in the stone carving of Prince Yide's tomb in Tang Dynasty. This is a gift from ancient empresses and concubines. The crown is decorated with phoenix, pearl and jade, which is heavier than ceremony. Woman: A woman's scarf is a kind of silk scarf, tied in a bun and tied with a hairpin. In Song Dynasty, Liang Hongyu liked to wear a scarf, so she was often called a heroine among women.