Scallion pancakes are the biggest misunderstanding of Shandong people.

The misunderstanding of pancakes and green onions comes from pancakes and green onions.

Do Shandong people eat pancakes?

Yes, but some people know. There are 17 prefecture-level cities in Shandong, but the people who often eat pancakes are mainly in central and southern Shandong, accounting for almost 1/3 of Shandong Province.

▲ There is no habit of eating pancakes in most parts of Shandong.

As for green onions, Shandong is indeed rich in green onions. Moreover, in addition to pancakes, Shandong cuisine is also inseparable from green onions.

Green onions are as inseparable to Shandong people as peppers are to Sichuan people. Shandong cuisine is often seasoned with onion, ginger and garlic, and "sea cucumber with onion" is even worse. 100 gram of sea cucumber should be matched with 200 grams of onion. With more onions, it is not difficult to explain why Shandong cuisine tastes thick and salty.

For Shandong people, green onions are not only spices to enhance fragrance and taste, but also vegetables with refreshing taste.

This refreshing, not spicy, direct entrance, not onion leaves, but onions. Shandong green onions are long, spicy and sweet, and then dipped in refreshing sweet noodle sauce. The satisfaction brought by 30 cm long green onions is irreplaceable by other foods. "Onions are added to the flour paste, which makes the abdomen tense."

▲ The best green onions are produced in Zhangqiu, especially croissants that have been baptized in severe winter and broke ground in spring, which are better than green onions. Everyone in Shandong saw tears in his eyes and was affectionate.

In Shandong in the past, pancakes were the staple food and green onions were the main vegetables. As a result, pancakes and scallions seem to follow the trend.

The way to eat scallion cake is very simple. Take a big pancake and fold it in half a few times. Roll up with water onion, spread with sauce and sprinkle with salt. It is fragrant and crisp, and the onion is fragrant.

▲ The first episode of "China on the Tip of the Tongue 2" "Footsteps" mentioned Shandong's scallion pancakes.

As for the people who roll scallion pancakes = all Shandong people, this has something to do with film and television dramas.

1984, The Garland under the Mountain directed by Xie Jin caused a sensation. In that era when film and television were not fully popularized, scallion pancakes were just popularized. Liang Sanxi, the hero of the film, is from Yimeng Mountain and loves pancakes.

Yimeng is located in Linyi, and Linyi's pancakes are a major representative of Shandong. Later, in film and television dramas such as Yimeng, Six Sisters of Yimeng and Red Sun, Yu Baozhen and other "Yimeng Red Sisters" baked pancakes for frontline soldiers, which was impressive.

In addition, when the chariots and horses were slow, Shandong people traveled all over the country for a few days, whether they went to Kanto or Tianjin, they naturally ate pancakes, leaving the impression that Shandong people all ate pancakes. This impression has stopped, but the changes in diet caused by the changes of the times have been iterative for many years.

▲ Sweet noodle sauce, also known as sweet sauce, is a sauce-like condiment made of flour as the main raw material through koji making and heat preservation fermentation.

Sweet noodle sauce tastes sweet and salty, and it has sauce flavor and ester flavor at the same time. No matter what Shandong pancake is rolled up, if it is coated with a layer of yellow-brown sweet noodle sauce, it will make people appetite. As for green onions, dip them in sauce, naturally to eliminate the spicy taste of green onions.

I used to roll green onions, but now I roll everything.

Lettuce, vermicelli, tofu, pickles, kelp, shredded pork, fried dough sticks, shrimp skin, Toona sinensis buds and even spicy strips can be rolled into patterns as long as they are cooked food.

If pancakes are spread near the school, they will also be rolled with spicy strips, and you can eat the spicy strips when you were a child by paying 50 cents more.

"Sister, have a dish, three cakes and an egg (Zhu m: ng), send all the dishes and pack them more (? Zhu (m: ng) points fine powder and less pepper, and the tower drops dry. This is money for you. I'll find it myself ... "

In Linyi, Shandong, you can see the scene where children take the initiative to find change from the change box and tell the vendors what to add.

Authentic Shandong pancakes are mostly in Linyi. Linyi's pancakes win by paying attention to raw materials and processes. Wheat, sorghum, corn, millet, dried sweet potato and other grains are used as raw materials, which are repeatedly washed and soaked, and then ground into paste with a stone mill, which is the raw material "pancake paste".

In some places, 1/3 or half of the clinker is put before grinding, which is called "semi-baking", so that the grinding is easy to bake and the baked pancakes are soft and delicious. It takes a lot of effort to grind the paste It usually takes two or three hours to grind twenty or thirty kilograms of grain. If it is ground quickly and the paste is too thick, the baked pancakes will naturally taste bad.

Even if the paste is usually ground by machine, not by hand, the raw materials are by no means ambiguous. The fragrance you feel comes from the grain itself, not other additives.

As for the Shandong miscellaneous grains pancakes sold on the street now, although they are based on the pancakes in Linyi, Shandong Province, they are not authentic pancakes, but combine the characteristics of quick and easy cooking of roadside stalls and become fast food in disguise.

Such pancakes, without the blessing of green onions, have become the stall owner's question "Do you want green onions?"

▲ The practice of coarse cereal pancakes adopts simplified medlar, which is a unique tool for making traditional food pancakes in Shandong, and evolved from ancient medlar. The traditional way of heating tobacco leaves is to burn firewood and straw at the bottom of tobacco leaves and smoke and burn. By the early 1980s, firewood had gradually withdrawn from the market. With the pace of reform and opening up, pancake machines came into being, and pancakes were commercialized. Jin Ao is a rotating cylinder, the interior of which is heated by burning coal. Since then, the custom of "every family smokes cigarettes and bakes cakes" has gradually faded out of people's sight.

However, the most essential difference is not green onions, but pancakes. The soul of pancakes is all in the batter.

Pancakes are made of batter. The batter of authentic Shandong pancakes is sticky, while the batter sold in the stall is sparse, like paint. Although pretending to be miscellaneous grains, there are few real miscellaneous grains. The raw materials are corn flour and millet flour, and some additives are added. This makes the essential difference, from the strength of authentic pancakes to the softness of fast food.

This kind of "fireworks-flavored" miscellaneous grain pancake, while just pasting the batter, quickly spread an egg and roll it up with biscuits and vegetables. This kind of miscellaneous grains pancake is simply similar to pancake fruit and egg filling cake, and it is completely spread out.

Shandong has a vast territory, and the practice of pancakes can be divided into two categories, Linyi pancakes and Taian pancakes.

The practice of Linyi pancakes is to spread pancakes, with millet and soybeans as raw materials, soaked in water and ground into rice paste. After the tobacco is heated with slow fire, quickly scoop a spoonful of rice paste and pour it on the tobacco.

The rice paste fell on the treetops like Chun Xue, sticky and falling. At this time, the rice paste should be spread out immediately with a wooden shovel to make the seeds full of sparks, which fully satisfies the psychology of patients with obsessive-compulsive disorder. About half a minute, the pancake has turned from white to yellow, so you can lift it from the outside to the inside.

The characteristic of pancake spreading is to spread rice paste with picks.

The other is to scrape pancakes in Taian area.

When scraping pancakes, spread them before scraping. The previous work is similar to Linyi pancakes, except that the rice paste needs to be leveled with a pick. It is this process that makes pancakes more elastic. And the batter stays on the seeds for a longer time, and the water evaporates more? Which Shandong people want to invent convenient and lasting pancakes? Isn't it fresher to cook after eating? Is it easier to swallow?

This is closely related to the working habits of Shandong people. Shandong is a rural area and generally does not work in winter. In addition to storing Chinese cabbage and green onions for the winter, the staple food pancakes should naturally be prepared in advance. If you can't bite, steam or stew, is it delicious? It is more convenient to keep.

Scraping pancakes is more "uneven" than spreading pancakes. This kind of uneven crisp is not crisp, and the taste is more elastic and chewy. Pancakes need to be fermented for a while after grinding, so they are slightly sour after scraping, so they are also called sour pancakes.

Sour pancakes don't sound dirty, and even have the meaning of bran swallowing vegetables. Take the cake.

Scraping pancakes, also known as sour pancakes, is characterized by scraping rice paste with picks.

However, this seemingly vulgar pancake has derived a small category of fine cakes-sugar crisp pancakes.

This crispy pancake has become a special snack in Jinan. In fact, it was developed on the basis of Taian pancakes, but it was born as a delicate pastry food.

Why nothing? Just a little sweet. This sweetness is not the sweet sauce brushed on, but melted in. In the original ordinary millet paste, sugar and essence are added to make it get rid of the salty taste, which not only increases the flavor, but also prevents the pancakes from retrogradation and hardening, making them completely crisp.

In fact, Shandong pancakes also originated in Taian. During the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, there was a saying that "a plate of tobacco leaves, 23 kilograms of pancakes". Since then, cigarettes have always been a tool for spreading pancakes, but they have changed from big to small.