The Influence of Ancient Clothing on Modern Clothing

Comparison between ancient Chinese clothing structure and modern clothing structure

Ancient Chinese costumes are famous for their straight and straight cutting, and their appearance features are wide.

Loose, fat and reserved. Chinese ancient costume is not only a costume history, but also a profound opposition.

It reflects the aesthetic thought, philosophical thought and humanistic spirit of China ancient traditional culture.

At present, the research and investigation of ancient costumes are mostly carried out from the aspects of historical theory, culture, artistic aesthetics and so on.

Research and discussion on the enlightenment and reference of ancient costumes to modern people also focus on

A study of the meaning of a certain style and style of ancient clothing or the development of a certain technology.

On the other hand, the research on ancient clothing structure is insufficient.

From Xia and Shang Dynasties to the Republic of China, thousands of years of history, accompanied by the clothing that China people walked through.

It has always been a loose plane straight line cutting. Of course, the plane structure is hidden behind it.

Influenced by the traditional culture of China. In the plane costume, there are also many three-dimensional ones.

Shadow, because clothing always serves the human body, the materiality of clothing is greater than its essence.

Divinity. The human body is a three-dimensional thing, and flat clothes should be suitable for the human body.

Functional requirements, in addition to loose and fat, always show three dimensions in details.

The shadow. The subtlety of ancient costume structure is different from modern cutting methods.

The beauty of equal work.

First, cut diagonally deep in the clothes.

Deep clothing is an ancient costume, which originated in the Zhou Dynasty, which advocated etiquette and was suitable for models.

It is widely worn by princes, literati and ordinary people. Deep clothes prevailed in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period.

During this period, the shape of the coat connected with the lower garment had a great influence on the clothing of later generations. Later,

Shirts, robes, etc. It can be considered as a legacy of deep clothes. The influence of deep clothe on that history of ancient costumes

So profound, in addition to its profound use accident, it is also related to its ingenious cutting and fitness skills.

Can't be separated Deep clothes are divided into straight and curved forms [1]. Its main features

The main points are as follows:

1. Clothes are connected. When cutting deep clothes, the lower skirt of the coat is cut separately [2], but

Then sew them together at the waist. Its lower skirt was cut into 12 pieces, corresponding to 12 pieces.

The meaning of last month. This 12 picture is diagonally cut. That is to say, in a piece two feet wide,

On a two-inch cloth, it is one foot four inches wide and eight inches narrow.

Two parts diagonal cutting. Then sew them together and connect them to the coat. choose

One is limited by the width of ancient fabrics, and the other is due to functional considerations.

In the flat garment structure, if the waist does not accept darts and the hem is wider, it is necessary to

To achieve the effect of "benefiting the body" and "benefiting the line", then this cutting method is the most suitable.

The narrow end is used at the waist to shrink the waist; The wide end is used for the hem and is adopted.

The use of twill yarns makes the fabric elastic to some extent, which can increase the activity of the hem. gift

In the cutting, A-type skirt adopts the cutting method of combining waist saving with enlarged hem.

Yes, this caused its waistline to bend slightly upwards, forming a narrow upper half.

Wide trapezoidal effect. This ladder can also be accommodated in the plane structure of the petticoat.

Shape effect. It's just that the waistline of the deep coat is relatively straight, because there is no merger of darts, but

The use of fabric diagonal wire also makes up for this. It can be seen that although ancient costumes are

Plane structure, but there are still some three-dimensional cutting effects for functional reasons.

2. Continue to hem. This is the shape of a curved deep coat. A skirt is a skirt. continue

Sewing is to lengthen the skirt. Crocheting refers to the hem, that is, the back hem of clothes. one

On the right back slit of the petticoat, an oblique triangle is sewn with oblique cutting pieces, and after it is put on,

You have to go around the back and tie it with a belt, which forms a melody.

3. Rectangular collar. That is, the collar type adopts the shape of cross and square folding down.

4. It is ankle-length. The length of a thick coat depends on the figure of the wearer.

In addition, the neckline, cuffs and lapels of deep clothes are decorated with fabrics of different colors.

This kind of edge decoration can not only play a decorative role, but also for functional consideration. Because ancient times

Clothing fabrics are mostly soft materials such as silk and twill, and you can also do some edging at these edges.

Play a role in reinforcement and firmness. This is also a combination of decoration and practical functions.

The design of.

Second, the "sleeve crotch" design in the robe

Robe is another kind of long dress after deep clothing, which was first seen in the Warring States, Qin and Han Dynasties.

More popular. In the Han dynasty, the style of robes and clothes mostly adopted a cross collar, and the two lapels overlapped and crossed downward.

The sleeves are wider and form an arc. The cuffs are obviously folded, which is convenient for exercise.

There are two ways to cut robes: straight cutting and oblique cutting.

The robe is divided into upper and lower parts. Eight coats were cut, including two dresses.

32 cm wide. There are three sleeves, with widths of 42 cm, 43 cm and 45 cm respectively.

After assembling the above 8 pieces, sew from the bottom. Under the armpit where the sleeve is connected with the body,

Piece together a rectangular cloth with a length of 37 cm and a width of 24 cm, which is convenient for arms to go up and down.

Activities. The collar is made of brocade, cut straight, and extends down 44 cm to the belly. under

* * * Cut 5 pieces in front, the width of 2 pieces in front of large lapels and small lapels is 45cm, and the width of other pieces is 4 1cm.

The rectangular cloth sewn under the armpit is equivalent to the "sleeve" in modern cutting.

Hip design. "The crotch design of modern structure is to make the overall appearance as simple as possible.

Clean without losing its good function. Therefore, the design of the crotch does not affect the function.

The more hidden, the better. [3] The widest part of the robe sleeve is 45cm, considering the function.

Not conducive to activities. So I put an extra piece of cloth under my arm.

This extra cloth not only increases the space for activities, but also connects the body with the lower skirt.

Smoother. From the crotch design of loose sleeves in modern clothing structure, it is different from

The design of this "extra" cloth under the armpit of ancient robes has the same effect, at least in

The design concept is consistent. Visible, since ancient times, in the clothing structure, right.

Practical function is the main design guidance of some key moving parts of clothing.

Ideology.

Third, the "front and rear crotch" design in cotton trousers.

In ancient times, underpants with two legs were called "pants" respectively. Early pants were just

Two bags on the leg, no crotch. Crotch pants were introduced into the Central Plains from the north.

Yes, it is easy to ride.

Cotton trousers are a form of ancient trousers. Produced in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. it is

It consists of two parts: waist and feet. Waist 4, feet 2.

Each piece is 30.5 cm wide and 45 cm long. Two left and right legs, one for the whole.

Silk, 50 cm wide and 6 1 cm long; The other piece is made of half a piece of silk, 25 cm wide and 59 cm long.

Centimeter. Insert a rectangle with a length of 12 cm and a width of 20 cm into the upper side of the squab.

I am full of praise. A wide edge is connected to the waist of the waist. Sew one side on the kua foot and fold it.

Triangle, funnel-shaped. There is a piece 32 cm long and 9 cm wide at the foot of Qiukua.

The stripes of rice are exaggerated, and they are also made into small praises. Silk tapestries are embedded in each splicing place of Kwai Foot. Embroider on

Silk fabric, dark yellow silk. The upper part of Qiu Kua's foot is connected with Qiu Kua's waist, but the crotch is not connected.

The back waist opening forms the crotch. This kind of cotton cloth is exaggerated, but it is actually a kind of open-backed pants. Boasting structure in cotton

That rectangular funnel-shaped splicing cloth folded into a triangle is equivalent to

The structure of front and rear crotch of trousers in modern clothing structure.

Generally speaking, in ancient Chinese clothing, the styles of upper and lower dresses or one-piece gowns are the same.

Most of them are plane shapes. Whether flat or unfolded, the clothes are in a flat state and only

After people put it on, it will tend to be three-dimensional with the ups and downs and movements of the human body curve. Dress

Plane structure tailoring, front and back unification, straight and oblique structural lines, clothes

Segmentation and splicing are closely related to the width and length of fabric.

How to study and inspect ancient costumes from the structural aspect is a problem worthy of consideration.

Although the ancient clothing structure is flat, it also contains subtle three-dimensional.

Design. In fact, as far as clothing structure is concerned, plane and three-dimensional are a dialectical relationship, that is,

A plane contains solids, and solids also contain planes. This is also ancient China.

Similarity between contemporary clothing structure and modern clothing structure.