Hakka wine culture?

Fujian Hakkas are famous for their hospitality. Since ancient times, guests have to treat the winemaker's mother. Drinking is bound to be pleasant and happy.

When did Fujian Hakka nine niang originate? It is said that 1000 years ago, the Han nationality in the Central Plains moved south on a large scale to avoid famine and war. A gentleman's woman moved over Qianshan and entered Fujian. They were too tired to walk any further and fell asleep in the mountains. I don't know how long it took, but a breeze mixed with special fragrance was refreshing. When an old woman woke up slowly, she saw an old man with silver hair and red face scooping out a clear and transparent liquid from the container with a bamboo spoon and handing it to the old woman, saying, "Drink!" " The old lady took a sip gently, and as soon as she smelled the mellow and rich fragrance, she felt relaxed and happy, and then her fatigue disappeared. According to the instructions of the elders, the old woman poured a mouthful into each sister's mouth, and suddenly they all woke up and refreshed. Looking at the surprised eyes of the girls, the old man laughed and said, "This is a wine girl made of sugar rice." Then I introduced the brewing method to everyone, and then walked away. This group of women found their first family members, settled and developed in Shibi, and thrived. Later, Shibi became the ancestral home of Hakka people, and Hakka winemakers passed it down from generation to generation. The truth of the legend has not been verified, but what is certain is that nine niang, a Hakka in Fujian, has an ancient origin and unique production.

Hakka ancestors originally lived in the Central Plains, while the northern Han people loved liquor and moved to Fujian. Why is yellow rice wine popular? First, the north is rich in sorghum and wheat, which are the main raw materials for brewing liquor; Fujian and western Fujian are rice producing areas, which are rich in glutinous rice and are the raw materials for making yellow rice wine. In addition, western Fujian is located in the mountainous area, with high mountains and deep forests, underground spring water, sweet taste and excellent water quality, which is suitable for brewing rice wine. Moreover, rice wine brewing is simple, and every household can brew it by itself. Just wash and soak the glutinous rice. Put it in a rice cooker and steam it thoroughly. The brewer said: "There is no time for brewing, as long as the glutinous rice is steamed", which shows that steaming glutinous rice is an important link in brewing and cannot be ignored. After steaming the glutinous rice, spread it in a dustpan to cool it, or directly put the rice retort on a wooden frame and cool it with cold well water, which is called "pouring wine". Grinding the wine cake (distiller's yeast) into powder and mixing it evenly with cold boiled water is called "pouring water". Put the cool (or soaked) glutinous rice into the jar, sprinkle with "Pu water" and stir it evenly by hand repeatedly. This is called "Taiwan wine" (local sound). Then flatten the evenly stirred glutinous rice in the jar, dig a "wine well" in the center, cover it and keep it warm for three days, and you will see that the wine well is full of wine girls. Generally, one barrel of glutinous rice (about 15 17 kg) is used for each cylinder, and about seven pots can be used for brewing (about 16 kg to 18 kg). Ninghua nine niang has a wide range of uses. Usually, besides drinking and entertaining guests, wine should be used for cooking, seasoning, dispensing and treating diseases. It can also be used as a gift for relatives and friends; How many cans of wine should be decided at the wedding; When a daughter-in-law gives birth to a child, she should prepare a rooster and six pots of wine niang to give good news to her grandparents, which is called "ginger wine". Grandparents will give wine to relatives and neighbors, and everyone will drink a small glass, which is called "drinking a wedding banquet". In addition, there is a folk saying that the north is cold, and people's physique is weak and cold, so they should drink white wine; Ninghua is located in the tropics, and people's physique is mostly hot, which is more suitable for drinking rice wine. Due to the above factors, Ninghua Hakka wine is available in every household, and it is constantly flowing.

Fujian Hakka nine niang tastes delicious and mellow, and its alcohol content is low. Generally, the alcohol content of fermented liquor is about 25 degrees, and the alcohol content of water liquor is about 18 degrees. Sweet and delicious, not easy to get drunk. It is widely drunk by people and is suitable for men, women and children. Every time a guest is a friend, or a wedding, it is better to hold wine in a tin pot. Hakka people are very generous. At this time, drinking in a big bowl and eating meat in large chunks are enjoyable and beyond words.

The quality of yellow rice wine depends on water; The second is to look at the brewing process, and more importantly, it is in the wine cake (qu). It is said that the wine cakes used by Hakka people in Fujian originated from She nationality. The She family in Fujian has always been good at making wine, and every household has old wine. The main components of its wine cake are herbs, such as wine cake grass, Rosa laevigata and so on. After drying and grinding into powder, using grain flour as the base material, it is fermented into a small ball the size of a thumb, and each jar of wine can use six or seven pills. Hakka people have learned this technique, and some people sell wine cakes at will. After long-term practice and continuous improvement, some of them have become family secrets and are not widely circulated. For example, Huaitu wine cake is a very popular material for brewing rice wine, but the mystery of making this wine has become the patent of Huaitu people. It can be seen that the influence of She nationality wine culture on Hakka wine culture is one of the highlights.

Fujian Hakka wine culture is constantly summarized, perfected, developed and improved in practice, and it is rich and colorful. In terms of the name of wine, there are different names because of the different alcohol content: the wine just brewed without water in the tank is called "strong" wine; If the wine is stored for a long time, it is called wine brewing; The distiller's grains are mixed with 30% to 50% cold boiled water, marinated for three to five days, and the distiller's grains are squeezed out. After boiling and clarifying, it is water wine. The name of wine varies with the brewing season and storage time. Most domestic wines are brewed in autumn and winter, especially around the "winter solstice". Its wine is called "winter wine" and is stored for one year. It was called "winter wine" when it opened in the winter of the following year. It has been stored for many years and is called "old wine"; When brewing, tonic drugs are added, which is called "tonic wine". There are also people brewing "chicken tonic wine" in the spring area. The production method is as follows: choose a robust chicken (castrated cock), slaughter and bleed, pluck hair and gut, wash and drain water, and then choose more than ten kinds of nourishing Chinese medicines such as angelica, codonopsis pilosula, astragalus root, Eucommia ulmoides bark and ox. Tibetan chicken belly, put the chicken at the bottom of the jar, put the glutinous rice mixed wine cake on it, seal the jar mouth, and store it for one year. When the jar was opened, the chicken and distiller's grains were already there.

Drinking is very common among Hakka people in Fujian. Men and women, old and young, sometimes drink wine instead of tea. So in addition to farmers brewing and drinking, there are also specialized brewers and sellers. Hotels are everywhere in the country. Xia Meng in Tingzhou County shows that the hotels in Tingzhou County were common at that time, which was recorded in the Annals of Ninghua County in Kangxi Edition of Qing Dynasty (1627- 1628).

Because drinking occupies an important position in the eyes of Hakkas, wine has become synonymous with various banquets. For example, during the Chinese New Year, everyone invites "annual wine", when giving birth to a child, invites "three dynasties wine", and makes it at the full moon. Children should be invited to "graduation wine" when they graduate; Please "engagement wine" for engagement; Please "celebrate the wedding" when you get married; Please build a new house and move, "housewarming wine"; Invite the old people to drink "Happy Birthday Wine". This shows that "brewing" is not only brewing and brewing, but also a phenomenon of wine culture.

Guessing boxing is also very popular among Hakka people in Fujian. The usual guess is "top boxing", that is, "one product rises, two people win more, three stars shine high, four seasons make a fortune, five sons enter the department, six and six shun, seven clever eight immortals, nine and nine long, and a pair of treasures are all full." There is also the "Jingle Boxing" that is sung while shouting. The loser drinks, and every time the banquet is over, he cheers and shouts "Full House", and each gulps down the wine in the bowl, which fully reflects the Hakka people's love for hospitality.