What is the basic composition of clothing? What are the factors that affect the development and change of clothing?

Please refer to the following information, I hope it will be useful to you.

5000-year-old costumes have various colors and endless changes. Where should we start? Let's start with the emperor's dress, which played an important role in the history of China and became the main part of the etiquette system for thousands of years.

Costume in Shang and Zhou Dynasties represented the most advanced costume style at that time. Clothes include a foot-long robe and a two-part coat. Clothes, generally with narrow sleeves, tight mouth and wide collar, are mainly double-breasted and biased. A petticoat is a skirt that reaches to the calf. Belt. A rectangular "partridge" hangs in front of the abdomen. No pants. Legs only wrap around calves, which the ancients called "walking vines" or "evil amplitude" Wear shoes of various materials on your feet. Wearing it on the head is a "headdress" such as a crown, a crown, and a coat for aristocratic children.

In the cold winter, people have to wear furs made of all kinds of animal skins. Most aristocratic dresses are fox fur, especially white fox fur, which is extremely precious. In order to show their manners, nobles put silk brocade clothes on fur coats, which are called "clothes". Sometimes a coat can be added to a dress, which is called formal dress. This is a dress for a big ceremony. The formation of the patriarchal etiquette system in the Western Zhou Dynasty not only determined the different clothing styles of different classes. And it is required to put on different clothes with different manners.

The court dress of the Zhou Dynasty consists of clothes such as clothes, crowns, coats, belts, skirts, widths, shirts and scales. A coat is a colorful coat painted or embroidered with various patterns. Crown is a flat-topped crown hat worn by the emperor. Nuo, also known as knee pads, is a rectangular fabric hanging in front of the abdomen. A belt refers to a belt woven from leather or silk thread. A petticoat is a long skirt worn under it. Painting, also called evil painting, is a cloth belt wrapped around the leg. Platform shoes are made of gold thread and red thread. The balance is used to fix the tiara of the crown.

The decoration and special patterns of royal clothes may have been stipulated since the Zhou Dynasty. The emperor's clothing patterns are divided into 12 kinds. For example, there are dragon patterns, mountain patterns, China insect patterns, Zong Yi patterns, algae patterns, fire patterns, pink rice patterns, paste patterns and paste patterns. These patterns will only appear on the clothes of the Emperor of Heaven. Scientists can only use patterns under dragons, while scholars use algae patterns and fire patterns. The doctor's clothes can be striped with pink rice.

After the turbulent Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, after Qin Shihuang unified the whole country, he abolished the original six coronation clothes, leaving only a black mysterious face for sacrifice. Because Qin people think that they are in line with the water virtue according to the five elements theory, water and black cooperate, so the Qin Dynasty is still black, and the emperor and civilians wear black clothes. Qin Shihuang completely destroyed the old etiquette system, so that there was no uniform dress and uniform in the early Han Dynasty.

The official dress of the Western Han Dynasty is just a kind of robe. And wear black robes all year round. Official uniforms are the same, and the difference and competition of official positions can only be distinguished by crowns and hats. Different officials wear different crowns. In addition, since the Zhou dynasty, officials have to wear ribbons. This official system was strictly implemented in the Han Dynasty.

During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, the official uniforms of emperors and officials basically followed the style of Han Dynasty, and did not change greatly until Sui and Tang Dynasties. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the formal dress system of court officials was also very complete, forming a hierarchical system. During the reign of Emperor Kai of Sui Dynasty, the form of coronation in Northern Zhou Dynasty was finalized after reform, and the Tang Dynasty followed the customization of Sui Dynasty. In the fourth year of Tang Wude, an imperial edict was issued, stipulating that the emperor's clothes were *** 12, of which 6 were crowned according to the Zhou Dynasty. There are 10 kinds of robes. When ministers wear formal clothes, they will use four other kinds of crown clothes besides crown clothes. These crowns are only worn at grand ceremonies. On other days, all the officials of the emperor wore uniform royal clothes, official uniforms and uniforms. The court clothes are the clothes worn at the court meeting, and only officials with more than seven items wear them. Public service, also called provincial service, is basically the same as Hanbok, but simpler. The uniform is mainly a shirt, which is a robe with a round neck, narrow sleeves and left and right slits.

At the end of Sui Dynasty, Yang Di ordered the colors to distinguish the clothes of officials and civilians. Officials with more than five grades are allowed to wear purple robes, officials with less than six grades use red and green, small officials use cyan, and civilians use white. Butchers and businessmen are only allowed to wear black clothes, and soldiers wear yellow robes.

After the Song Dynasty unified the whole country, it was built in Song Taizu for two years and promulgated a new dress system. In the Song Dynasty, official clothes were still divided into three types: sacrificial clothes, court clothes and regular clothes. Sacrificial costumes keep the Tang Dynasty style, but the grades of various costumes are slightly reduced. At the beginning of the Song Dynasty, the style of court clothes was still the same as that of the Tang Dynasty, but the number of beams entering the fairy hall changed from two to five. In the second year of Yuanfeng, Song Shenzong abolished the rule of determining the crown according to official rank since the Sui and Tang Dynasties, and changed his official position, with seven crowns. Since the Song Dynasty, when officials wear royal robes, they must wear an ornament around their necks, which is called a square round neck. The uniforms of the Song Dynasty inherited the costumes of the Tang Dynasty. Like the Tang Dynasty, the uniforms were distinguished by color. The biggest change in official uniforms in Song Dynasty was kowtowing. In the Song Dynasty, the soft bread of the Tang Dynasty became a kind of hat with hard tires and hard feet, and it had a fixed shape. The fixture frame is made of iron wire and bamboo strips and covered with lacquer yarn. Officials usually wear a straight-legged hoe with their feet sticking out horizontally behind their heads like rulers. It was short at first, and then it grew longer and longer, even a foot long. As for junior officials and soap feet, their clothes are relatively simple, their clothes are short, their sleeves are narrow, and most of them are worn with their feet bent upward.

Liao country coexisted in the North and the Northern Song Dynasty, and the official clothing system of Liao country was influenced by Chinese culture. Liao Dynasty officials were divided into two classes. The Queen Mother and the Khitan ministers in the northern class wore the costumes of the Khitan nationality, while the kings and ministers of the Han nationality in the southern class used Hanfu, which was the post-Jin clothing style following the official clothing system in the Tang Dynasty. It consists of a round neck robe, a jade belt, trousers and boots.

The Jin State, which rose in the north after the Liao State, officially announced the crown service system in Tian Ju for three years. This system absorbs the characteristics of the costumes of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty in the Tang and Song Dynasties, but it is simpler. The emperor's sacrificial dress adopts Tian Tongguan and crimson gauze robe; The imperial robe is a pale yellow robe with a black rhinoceros belt at the waist. The official uniforms are red long-sleeved Luo Yi, red Luo skirt and Ignace kogler crown; Shirts are used as official uniforms.

After the Mongols entered the Central Plains, the Yuan Dynasty was established. In the mid-Yuan Dynasty, on the basis of maintaining the inherent costumes of the Mongols, Yuan Renzong ordered the provincial government to stipulate color grades and tighten the costume system. On the basis of the official uniforms in Tang and Song Dynasties, the coronation uniforms, court uniforms and similar official uniforms were determined.

After Zhu Yuanzhang established the Ming Dynasty, the clothing system of court officials reached the most complete and complicated level. Dragon patterns were added to the emperor's clothes, which was a etiquette system that began to form in the Ming Dynasty. The dragon pattern became a special symbol of the emperor. This kind of imperial dress embroidered with dragons was most commonly worn by Ming emperors, and was formally formulated by Ming Taizu in Hongwu for three years. In addition to the yellow robe with round neck and narrow sleeves woven with gold plate and dragon pattern, there are several components such as upturned scarf, jade belt and leather boots. In the seventh year of Jiajing, Emperor Shizong of the Ming Dynasty, a new royal suit was stipulated, called Yanfu, which consisted of a black gauze cap, a dark black robe, a jade belt and white socks and black shoes. The design of officials at all levels in the Ming Dynasty was marked by an animal pattern, embroidered on two squares of cotton satin, and each part of the official uniform was patched on the chest and back. This is a tonic, and this official costume is called patchwork.

In the twenty-sixth year of Hongwu in Ming Taizu, it was stipulated that the official's court clothes all followed the style of the Tang and Song Dynasties, including red coat, knee-length skirt, white gauze single coat, white socks and black shoes, belt and ribbon at the waist and a crown on the head. The rank of officials is expressed by the number of beams in the crown and the different patterns of ribbons. In the Ming Dynasty, officials had to wear official uniforms on important occasions. Public service includes a hard hat and a wide-sleeved collared robe. The color of robes depends on official products.

The Qing Dynasty established by the Nuzhen nationality in Northeast China was the last feudal autocratic dynasty in the history of China. The official uniforms of the Qing Dynasty highlighted the national characteristics of Manchu and completely changed the face of the official uniforms of the Han nationality that lasted for thousands of years. The Manchu characteristics of these clothes are highlighted in the crown hat, horseshoe sleeves, robes and pants.

The top hat of Qing officials is very special, which is the familiar long feather dome hat. There are two kinds: one is a warm hat worn from August to February, and the other is a cool hat worn from March to August. The warm hat is round, with a dome in the middle and a wide folding brim around it. It is made of black woolen cloth, flannel or satin. The brim is made of precious leather materials such as mink, sea dragon skin and fox skin. The top of the hat is decorated with red hat weft and the middle is filled with thimble. Ding Zhu is made of precious stones, corals, gold and silver, which is an important symbol to distinguish official products. The cool hat is a conical hat, which is made of jade grass, rattan silk and bamboo silk. Dressed in gauze, decorated with red hats and crown beads. The emperor's hat is the most luxurious, with three crowns and golden dragons embedded in it. The crown is inlaid with gold and four golden dragons. Each dragon has a pearl in its mouth. In the center of the crown is inlaid with 1 big pearl, surrounded by pearls and precious stones. Horseshoe sleeves, whose real name is "Arrow Sleeves", are protective clothes that cover the hands of soldiers when shooting arrows. Looks like a horseshoe. It is installed on the bow and arrow cuffs that Qing people often wear. It can be turned up at ordinary times and put down to cover their hands when saluting. It is a Manchu national costume that the Qing people especially valued.

Manchu robe is the most important dress, which is obviously different from Han robe. The upper body is tight and narrow, the sleeves are thin, and the lower body is split in front, back, left and right, which is also limited by grade. The royal robes have four slits, while the robes of officials and people are only allowed to have two slits at the front and back. Robes are all round neck and right collar. The emperor's robes are bright yellow and embroidered with dragon patterns. Officials and maids wear robes embroidered with python patterns.

Wearing an overcoat over a robe is a major feature of Manchu costumes. The coat is shorter than the robe, generally the inner coat, round neck, loose sleeves and even cuffs. A jacket is a very short jacket, not waist-length, with sleeves but elbows. The jacket is also often used as a court dress. The yellow jacket is the most conspicuous. Similar to the jacket, there is a vest, which is also a clothing style determined by riding and shooting life. Vest has no sleeves, mainly to keep warm. Later it gradually became a coat.

Clothing is a symbol of identity, a symbol, representing the political and social status of individuals, so that everyone can abide by their duties and be insurmountable. Therefore, since ancient times, the monarch has been the way to govern the country, and clothing is a very important item. When the clothing system is completed, the political order will be partially completed. So in China, traditionally, clothing is a part of politics, and its importance far exceeds the status of clothing in modern society.

It is said that clothing, for human beings, keeping out the cold is its primary function. However, since mankind stepped out of the era of only practical purposes, the function of clothing civilization has become complicated. Especially in China, since ancient times, the clothing system has been one of the important systems of the king's administration.

Color is the most important factor to promote the function of clothing and realize its goal of "ruling the world". Clothing color has two functions: one is to distinguish identity; The second is to express the occasion. In ancient times, the government stipulated the color of clothes for people all over the world. In particular, emperors, officials and officials have detailed regulations from sacrificial clothing, court clothing, official clothing to official clothing. They almost wear uniforms, because most of them belong to the upper class and are the envy of people. Therefore, the color of uniform strongly affects the popular color of clothing. With the changes of the times, foreign cultures have been added to China culture, and the popular clothing colors will in turn affect the clothing colors of uniforms. Due to the interaction of these two colors, the history of this seemingly small change has actually changed greatly. According to the occasion of wearing, ancient clothes can be divided into three categories: formal clothes, imperial clothes and regular clothes, and each category can be divided into several categories. The principle is that the higher the status, the more types people can wear and the more colors they can use. Let's take a look at China's clothing history. ...