What fabric does Hanfu suit?

Silk is mostly used in Hanfu, and pure cotton is also acceptable, such as 12* 16, 108*58, 2026, all of which are good.

The Method of Making Hanfu —— Transferred from Hanwang Forum

Simple cutting method of skirt

(statement: this method can really make a dress, which I have always done, but ... is not necessarily the right answer. Therefore, I also hope that experienced seniors can correct me. )

Here is the basic cutting method of skirt. Among them, the skirt is a fitted short collar, the width is subject to the size of the person's bust, and the length is only over the waist but not over the buttocks (if it is over the buttocks, the hem needs to be widened into an arc, so it is not a square hem in the figure (1). Of course, you can continue to use this cutting method, but the width must be based on the size of the hip circumference, so that there will be too much extra cloth on the upper body when you tie the skirt. The skirt is a skirt.

First, strict ruling methods

There are two common ways to cut the collar. Because of the cross collar, a part of cloth will overlap in front, so it is difficult to satisfy a piece of cloth.

So these two common cutting methods are composed of two pieces of cloth to form a reed. One is the back-dividing method (as shown in Figure (1)), and the sewing line of two pieces of cloth is in the back center. In ancient paintings, people's clothes have obvious lines in the middle of the back, so this cutting method is adopted; The other method is to fill in the front, that is, the sewing thread of two pieces of cloth is in the right front. The advantage of this cutting method is that the sewing part is covered by the left front and the surface of the clothes can't be seen. In addition to these two methods, there is another cutting method, that is, adjusting the slope of the rotator cuff to meet the cloth required for the front overlapping part. This method only needs one piece of cloth and does not need to be cut separately, but I don't know much about this method, so I won't go into details.

[img]/BBS/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058 18050 1889 . jpg[/img]

What I want to introduce below is the method of supplementing the middle after the middle (this is the method I often use because I think this method is more traditional).

Step 1: Before cutting, you must first master the following data: bust, rotator cuff length, back length, garment length, cuff width, cuff width, cuff seam, hem seam, etc.

Bust: It refers to the bust of clothes, not the bust of human body. Equal to the body's net bust+loose clothes. Measure the net chest circumference of human body by passing the soft ruler horizontally through the nipple point (pay attention to the tightness of the soft ruler). The looseness of clothes depends on your own preferences. Generally speaking, the looseness of 4CM~6CM is tight (suitable for medium clothes or single clothes), and 8- 10CM is fit (single clothes or one or two clothes can be added inside). 56616.6666 If it is inconvenient to measure, you can refer to the clean bust size of modern adult women: S-shaped 76CM, M-shaped.

Shoulder Sleeve Length: Measure the cervical vertebra protruding from the back of the neck (also called the back neck point) to the sleeve length position you want to reach on the arm. The length of rotator cuff also includes the width of rotator cuff. Long sleeves can be measured to your fingertips (if you consider the saying that Hanfu sleeves are long to the back of your elbow, you can make them longer). Unless you want to make a half-arm, it is recommended to make only short sleeves in the middle of the arm, because Hanfu does not emphasize showing hands. Although modern clothes can relax some standards, they are too short to look good. Modern reference dimensions (only at the junction of forearm and palm): S type 59CM, M type 6 1.5~63.5CM, L type 63~64CM, XL type 64.5CM.

Back length: measured from the back of the neck to the thinnest part of the waist. Modern reference dimensions: S type 36.5~37.5CM, M type 38~39.5CM, L type 38~40CM, XL type 39CM.

Length: you can measure it directly, from the back of your neck to the position below your waist, and you can't reach the widest part of your hips (because it is short). If you don't want to measure it, you can also use the back length plus 5~ 14CM.

Sleeve width: according to personal preference. Generally speaking, narrow sleeves are not necessary, large sleeves must be fixed, and middle sleeves cannot be fixed.

Collar width: customized according to personal preference. However, it should be noted that its aspect ratio should match people's face and figure, and it should not be exaggerated. For example, thin people should not make too wide collars.

Cuff seam: seam (also called seam) is the quantity used to connect the cloth. If there are sleeves, stop at 1CM; if there are no sleeves, leave 2~3CM.

Hem seam: 2~3CM.

Step 2: Cut out a square piece of cloth or pattern (Figure 2). If the fabric is not easy to deform, such as cotton and tweed, it can be operated directly on the fabric. If it is easily deformed, such as chiffon silk, it is best to make a pattern first. The size of the grid is: length = 1/4 bust+rotator cuff length-cuff width+cuff stop; Width = (length+hem seam) ×2

Draw the following auxiliary lines on the cloth (pattern) after the grid is opened. The position of the auxiliary line is shown in Figure (2), as follows:

Shoulder cuff line: it is the center line (or fold line) of the front and back of the reed.

1/4 bust line: this line can determine the position of the back middle part.

1/2 bust line: This line determines the width of the clothes.

Topline: Determines the position of the waist.

Bust line: this line passes through the chest but not the nipple point, which can indicate the depth of the armhole (the dividing line between the sleeve and the body), and the vertical distance from the rotator cuff line is: net bust /6+7CM.

The related pictures of this theme are as follows:

[img]/BBS/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058 180538607 . jpg[/img]

Step 3: Draw the lines under the body and sleeves, the back center line, the neckline line and the left front line (Figure 3).

Lines under the body and sleeves: as shown in the figure. The connection between the line under the sleeve and the body should be between the chest line and the back line. If above the bust line, the armhole is too narrow, if below the topline, the armhole is too wide. This line determines the shape of the sleeve. This diagram is for demonstration only. As for narrow sleeves or big sleeves, pipa sleeves or straight sleeves, the style of personal choice determines the drawing method of this line. It should be noted that it is best to have a right angle under the cuff to facilitate the splicing of the front and back pieces of the sleeve.

Midline: the line in the middle of the back. Just change the auxiliary line in Figure 2 to a solid line.

Neckline line: Draw as shown. AB length = back collar width+(collar width -N)+M, where back collar width = 1/4 neck circumference = net chest circumference/20+2.9 cm; M is the width of the collar from the neck, and the larger the m, the larger the neckline; The size of n is 0CM~ the width of the collar, which determines the angle of the collar on the premise that m is 0. Theoretically, when n is 0, the collar just reaches the neck side, and when n is equal to the width of the collar, the collar stands up to cover the neck. However, the length of AB

The junction of the neckline line and the back center line must be at right angles, and then draw an arc from point B to point C. Point C in the figure is any point on the left line between the bust line and the back line, but the highest point shall not exceed the boundary point between the lower sleeve line and the body, and the lowest point shall not be lower than the back line. The curvature of the arc from point B to point C should not be too large, and the straight line from BC at the maximum curvature should not exceed 1~ 1.5CM. Pay attention to the smoothness of the whole line.

Left front lower cycloid: make a vertical line on BC arc to the lower cycloid, and the distance between the vertical line and the leftmost line is about 2~6CM (if the distance is too large, the seams on both sides will be elongated and too small, and the neckline size and tightness of the dress body cannot be adjusted by the lace of the skirt).

The related pictures of this theme are as follows:

[img]/BBS/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058 18054 13799 . jpg[/img]

Step 4: Fold the cloth (pattern) in half along the rotator cuff line, draw a seam (1CM) between the lower part of the sleeve and the body, as shown in Figure 4, and then cut out the lower part of the sleeve and the body line (the outer line of the shaded part in the figure).

[img]/BBS/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058 1805527603 . jpg[/img]

Step 5: Cut off some clothes. Open the folded cloth (pattern), draw the seam of the back center line, neckline line and left front line (1CM), and then cut along the outside of the seam line (as shown in Figure 5). The arrow in the figure indicates the warp direction parallel to the selvage.

[img]/BBS/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058 180569242 . jpg[/img]

Step 6: Draw the second dress. Turn the cloth (pattern) in Figure (5) upside down, cover it with another cloth, and cut out the second cloth according to the shape of this cloth.

Step 7: Cut off the collar and sleeve edges (omitted). Length of collar edge = length of neckline in Figure (3) ×2, and width of collar edge = (required width of finished product style+1CM)×2. Cuff length = cuff length+seam 2CM, cuff width = (required width of finished style+seam 1CM)×2.

The cutting of reeds is completed.

Second, the cutting method of skirt

The traditional dress of Hanfu is a wrap skirt, which is made up of several skirts and connected to the waist. There are laces at both sides of the skirt waist (as shown in Figure 6). The number of skirts is not fixed, because the ancient cloth width is narrow, and the more skirts there are, the greater the skirt and skirt range will be. There were only four skirts in Han dynasty, six in Tang dynasty, more than six in Song dynasty and eighty in late Ming dynasty. The width of modern cloth can increase the area of skirt and reduce the number of skirt. The skirt number of modern aprons is generally 3-4, but from the perspective of traditional inheritance, it is best to use the traditional skirt number, such as 6, 8, 10, 12.

The related pictures of this theme are as follows:

[img]/BBS/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058 18057 16350 . jpg[/img]

Next, the cutting method of skirt is introduced. The skirt cutting method introduced here is a cutting method (drawing lessons from modern cutting method and non-traditional method, which I personally think is more convenient), and it is necessary to make patterns instead of cutting directly with cloth.

Step 1: Master the following data before cutting: waist circumference (or upper bust/lower bust), skirt circumference and skirt length.

Waist circumference (or upper bust/lower bust): What data is needed depends on the basic style. Skirts can be worn on the chest, under the chest and around the waist. The data of upper bust, lower bust and waist circumference should be measured according to different ways of wearing.

Skirt circumference: = waist circumference (or upper bust/lower bust) × 1.5~2 times+pleat amount+increased seams on the left and right sides of the skirt (2~4CM). Multiplies are determined according to personal walking habits and cloth weight. The greater the walking pace, the greater the skirt multiple, the better the drape of the fabric and the heavier the hand feel. The skirt multiple can be slightly smaller, but not less than 1.5 times, otherwise it is in danger of running out. The number of pleats determines the number and size of skirt pleats. The pleating methods include pleating and pleating, so I won't repeat them here. However, it should be noted that the number and size of pleats should be determined according to the thickness of the fabric and the body shape of the person. Because pleating will increase the sense of volume of the upper part of the skirt, thick fabrics should not be pleated too much, and people with fuller bodies should also pay attention to pleating only a proper amount (proper pleating can cover up the body shape, but if the fabric is hard and the skirt hem is large enough to form more waves, there is no need to pleat.

Skirt length: determined by style. However, the lower part of the skirt must reach the ankle. If the skirt is too short, it will not look good to show socks or calves.

Step 2: Open the grid and cut it open. The grid size is shown in Figure (7). After the grid is opened, draw vertical auxiliary lines on the pattern, the number is not limited to 2 or 4, and it is better to draw auxiliary lines with symmetrical distance on both sides based on the center line of the grid (as shown in Figure 8).

[img]/BBS/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058 1805823 174 . jpg[/img]

[img]/BBS/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058 18058397 16 . jpg[/img]

Step 3: Swing (see Figure 9). Cut along the auxiliary lines in the grid, leaving one line at the top, then cover it on another piece of paper, fix the middle piece with a pin or something, and spread the other pieces at the same distance. The greater the spreading distance, the greater the curvature above the skirt, the greater the hem of the skirt, and the greater the ripple of the hem. The amount of swing here also depends on the thickness and hardness of the cloth. The thicker the cloth, the harder it is, and the amount of swing should be appropriate, otherwise the lower part of the skirt is too large.

The related pictures of this theme are as follows:

[img]/BBS/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058 1805927 182 . jpg[/img]

Step 4: Draw the outline of the skirt on the lower paper along the outer edge of the upper pattern (as shown in figure (10)). Pay attention to the smooth arc of the skirt and keep the four corners at right angles.

The related pictures of this theme are as follows:

[img]/BBS/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058 1805952448 . jpg[/img]

Step 5: Draw the seam of the skirt, the upper and both sides of the skirt 1CM, and the hem is 2~3CM. Draw the warp direction line (as shown in figure (1 1)) and cut it out (as shown in figure (12)), and the skirt pattern is completed. Generally speaking, the warping direction of the skirt is perpendicular to the ground, and there are also practices in which the warping direction is inclined to the ground. This method can form soft waves, but it is not suitable for fabrics that are too easily deformed and will destroy the patterns.

The related pictures of this theme are as follows:

[img]/BBS/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058 18 103067 1 . jpg[/img]

[img]/BBS/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058 18 1030944 . jpg[/img]

Step 6: Cut the required number of skirts on the patterned cloth. Pay attention to the contrast with the cut pattern, because the edge of the skirt is oblique and easy to stretch and deform, so compare with the original one and cut off the part that grows because of stretching.

Step 7: Cut out the skirt waist. Waist length of skirt = skirt circumference-pleat amount-seam added on the left and right sides of skirt (2 ~ 4cm)+ seam (2CM). The skirt waist width is self-determined. Note that when the width of the skirt waist is increased to a certain amount, the skirt waist can also play the role of correcting the waist shape like a wide belt (it is best to use a slightly lighter cloth than the reed and skirt). However, the width of the skirt waist should not be greater than the distance from the waist to the bottom of the human chest rib (unless specially designed).

It's done.

References:

http://www.shitouji.org/archiver/? · tid-4645.html