What are the dress patterns of the Qing Empresses?

There are three kinds of cymbals: phoenix cymbals, full cymbals and semi-cymbals. The inner tube is made of black velvet and satin strips, with silver wire or copper wire, decorated with jade or beads. "Generally, women use copper wire or iron wire to make their hair sticks. There are three kinds of cymbals: phoenix cymbals, full cymbals and semi-cymbals. Like a cockscomb in front of a scorpion, covered with a dustpan, the dome is wide up and down; Surround it with two strands of hair, and then insert ornaments such as flat hair, hair clasp and flowers.

Hairpin is an essential jewelry for Manchu women to comb all kinds of bun. Usually, Manchu women like to decorate their hair with big earlobes, small earlobes, beaded hairpins, sideburns hairpins, crested hairpins and faucet hairpins made of precious materials such as gold, silver, pearl jade, agate and coral. Although there are many kinds of hair clips, the choice should be based on everyone's conditions and identity. For example, before the People's Pass, Fujin in Nurhachi and Fujin and Gege in Baylor used Dongzhu as the best material for making hair accessories. After 200 years, it was gradually replaced by Hepu Pearl Nanzhu.

The headdress flower is jewelry developed from hairpin. It consists of a flower head and a pin. Because Manchu women's hair styles developed from soft-winged head to two fingers, then to shelf head, and finally produced big wings, the hair styles on their heads became wider and wider, so a headdress with a large coverage-Touhua was produced. Most headdresses are made of pearls and precious stones, so they need a stable support, that is, some corresponding changes have been made on the basis of hairpins. For example, a cross-shaped cross brace is welded at the top of the pin, and the cross-shaped cross is used as the main body of the headdress. Decorative flowers, branches and leaves, birds and animals, insects and butterflies, auspicious symbols and so on surround the main body. This mutual collocation not only makes the primary and secondary relationship of composition obvious, but also makes the headdress flower with treasures as raw materials share the load reasonably. When a Manchu woman combs her hair, she wears a big flower between her two heads, which is called a headdress. Some women will also choose two kinds of flowers with the same color and shape to be inserted at both ends of the two heads, commonly known as pressed hair flowers, also known as pressed temples.

Besides flags and hairpins, Manchu women generally like to decorate their hair with flowers. Wearing big flowers on the head has always been a traditional custom of Manchu. Pu Zhiyuan recorded in the Diary of Jehol that Manchu women are "full of wild flowers, regardless of age" and "over 50 years old" is still "full of flowers, full of golden flowers, a precious journey". "Even if you are nearly seventy years old, even if you are bald and shiny, you will still be full of flowers." In northern Liaoning, some Manchu women even put a small bottle full of clear water on their hair bun, and a few flowers were inserted in the bottle, which was full of vitality, reflecting their strong pursuit of beauty. In the early Qing Dynasty, the country was on the rise, and people's living consumption remained largely in the traditional mode. In order to satisfy the desire for beauty, Manchu women often wear seasonal flowers and a kind of "honeysuckle wisp" on their heads. In other words, the table is made of paper tires, and some are made of copper wire. They are packaged into all kinds of flowers, no more than two or three inches high, and the largest is nearly a foot, decorated with extremely delicate pearls and jade. In the early years of Shunzhi, the family members of Manchu military camp often used this honeysuckle as a decoration on the bun. With the establishment of politics and the consolidation of state power in Qing Dynasty, headdresses worn by Manchu women also appreciated. Although flowers can be seen everywhere, women prefer headdress flowers with precious texture. These women grow their hair to show off, not to be beautiful.

At the end of the Qing Dynasty, the national treasury was embarrassed and the national strength declined, which naturally affected people's lives. In order to save money, the headdress flower changed from pure gold to gold plating, the jewelry flower became velvet flower, silk flower, even paper flower and grass flower, and even the headdress flower with delicate feathers was dyed with madder. Feather Diancui jewelry has been circulating in China for a long time, and its technological level has been continuously improved, reaching its peak in Qianlong period. It is famous for its gorgeous colors and splendor, but it is very complicated to make. It is understood that a base is made of gold and silver pieces according to the flower shape, and then a circle of raised grooves is welded with gold wire along the flower edge of the pattern. At present, most of the metal jewelry collected in the Forbidden City in Beijing is in Qianlong period. For example, ruby inlaid with rice bead flower, pearl inlaid with three friends flower, sapphire dragonfly flower, red coral cat iris flower, gold inlaid with pearl jewel flower, gold inlaid with rice bead flower, coral inlaid with turquoise gourd flower and so on. , are made of welding backing technology. It not only follows the traditional skills of history, but also highlights the characteristics of Qianlong period, so that the eyes, tentacles, beards and branches of insects and birds are burned into elastic springs with fine copper wires, which move gently and sway from side to side, making the image lively and dynamic. There is also a kind of metal welding as the base and pin, and the jewelry flowers are tied into a bundle of headdresses with copper wires, which is also loved by queens because of its flexibility. It is made of copper wires with different thicknesses into flower branches and leaf branches, and then the petals made of precious stones and the small holes at the end of the leaves are strung into different single branches such as flowers, stamens, flowers and leaves, and the branches are tied into a bundle according to the figure, and finally concentrated on a thick copper wire, which is fastened with a needle. This headdress is very effective on the head and adds a lovely charm to women. In addition, metal inlaid headdress and gold silk headdress are also loved by predecessors because of their vivid image and fine workmanship, which makes future generations marvel.

Manchu women's favorite headdress is velvet flower, especially when their daughters get married, they must wear red velvet flower on their heads, which is auspicious. It is said that "velvet flower" in Chinese is similar to "splendor" in Manchu, so wearing velvet flower means prosperity. Manchu women, as long as conditions permit, should wear velvet flowers not only on the wedding day, but also all the year round, seeking homophonic auspiciousness. In particular, seasonal velvet flowers should be worn in order: beginning of spring wears a spring flag, Qingming wears willow branches, Duanyang wears wormwood, Mid-Autumn wears osmanthus, Chongyang wears Cornus officinalis, and winter wears gourd flowers. The headdresses of concubines in the Qing Dynasty, as well as a large number of velvet flowers, silk flower and silk flower, all exist in the world. These flowers are harmonious in color and rich in halo levels, which can be called "confused flowers". It is said that Yang Guifei in the Tang Dynasty had a mole on her temple, and she often wore large flowers on her temple to cover it up. Because flowers wither easily, people developed the color of flowers to make silk flower. This process is constantly developing, and the finer it is, the finer it is. The headdresses made of velvet, silk and silk left over from the Qing Dynasty include white, pink and pink peony flowers, light yellow, medium yellow and dark yellow chrysanthemums, white, lotus root and snow blue Chinese rose flowers, pink and white plum blossoms, etc. It has lasted for a hundred years and is still glamorous and pleasing to the eye.

Hairpins and hairpins have similar purposes, and they are both essential jewelry for women's hair bun. A double-pin or triple-pin hairpin is more firmly fixed on the bun than a hairpin. People are used to calling the unadorned ones "inserts". There are also many forms of inserts, such as round-headed pins, pointed pins and flat-headed pins. Most of them are gold, silver and gold-plated plain colors, which are commonly used by ordinary women such as copper and iron. Inserts are only used to fix the bun. In the headdress of Manchu women, there should be a fixed center that plays a major role, that is, an insert that plays the role of a fixed center. There is also a kind of hair clip called "silver clip", just like two flat hair clips combined together. The silver clip not only attaches importance to the practical value of its fixed hairstyle, but also has the aesthetic value of showing beauty, which can be regarded as an ideal hairpin. There are also women who belong to the category of "Chai Jing Cloth Skirts". Because of the embarrassment of their family, they are not very particular about whether they want it or not. They only use thick iron wire to make inverted U-shaped inserts, and also use straight iron wire to sharpen one end and break one end to make hair clips.

In the past, when appreciating the flag-raising style, we often saw the headdress of Manchu women, which was wide and long, like a fan rather than a fan, like a crown rather than a crown, which was very eye-catching. Its name is Bian Fang, commonly known as "flag head". Another meaning of "flag head" refers to several hairstyles with distinctive national characteristics and unique charm commonly used by Manchu women, such as "Ertou", "Water hyacinth", "Swallowtail", "Big wings", "High head", "Shelf head", "Front bangs" and "Pan head wings". Flat square is the main jewelry of Manchu women when combing their hair. In the article "The Life of the Noble in the Late Qing Dynasty" written by Heyun, he once said: "Manchu women generally comb two J prefixes, and the style is simple. They are all' flat' and really hold jade or jade. " A square like a hair crown inserted horizontally on a bun, 32 to 33.5 cm long, 4 cm wide and 0.2 to 0.3 cm thick. It is ruler-shaped, with a semicircle at one end and a scroll at the other. For example, a disguised horizontal hairpin, whether combing two heads or pulling wings, plays the role of a "beam" connecting the true and false bun. The function of the flat square is similar to the long hairpin used by ancient men to tie their hair. Perhaps the flat square evolved from this. The texture of the square is mostly white jade and sapphire, and a few are gold and silver products.

As for Bian Fang, a unique headdress for Manchu women, we can see from the description of Mrs. An's headdress in the 20th chapter of the novel Legend of Heroes of Children in Qing Dynasty that "He Yufeng destroyed her filial piety, and Enron repaid her kindness with media service". The article said: "I saw the lady ... wearing two short heads, a red head, a flat square with a big head, a pair of three-line Hosta sticks and a small-eared spoon on her head, but she didn't wear it on her head, but stuffed it behind her head." On Cui Hua's left, there are three big gem needles and nails, and she still wears them. No matter how many hairpins she wears at this end, it reflects the portrayal of female headdresses in Manchu official families after the mid-Qing Dynasty.

In the northern folk of the Qing Dynasty, there were also very small squares. In the case of funeral, his wife Dai Xiao put down her two heads, put her hair on her head and braided it into two braids. The ends of the braid were not tied with ropes, which made her hair loose and a three-inch or four-inch long bone stuck on her head. If the daughter-in-law is Dai Xiao, a small square of silver or copper should be inserted horizontally. Fang is usually wrapped in green satin, green velvet or green yarn, commonly known as "Zi Zi". When worn, it can be fixed on a bun, often embroidered with various patterns, inlaid with gems or flowers, and decorated with long tassels. The square used by royal aristocratic women is exquisite in texture and elegant in style. On the narrow side of the square, which is only over a foot long, the patterns of flowers, grass, insects, birds, melons and fruits, pavilions and pavilions are lifelike. Princes and ladies wear flat squares, deliberately revealing patterns at both ends to attract attention. It is said that the silk tassel hanging on the flat side echoes the flowerpot shoes worn on the feet, which makes it introverted and adds to the dignified and beautiful manners of women. Manchu women, such as those who celebrate auspicious days or receive distinguished guests, will wear square scarves. Wearing this wide and long square towel can limit the distortion of the neck and make them straight. Coupled with the long cheongsam and high-grade flag shoes, walking is particularly stable and elegant.

Fun, commonly known as "Baotou", is called "brain" by northerners. It is a long strip with a wide middle and narrow ends, which is worn between the forehead and the eyebrows. Originally in the south of the Yangtze River and the Central Plains, it was used to protect the elderly women from the cold in winter. It was widely circulated in Ming and Qing dynasties, and was used as decoration by ladies and shelter from the cold by poor women. Married Manchu women in Northeast China use lacing to make their hair slightly backward, which is slightly different from the flat bun of Jiangnan women. Its shape and quality are mostly made of yarn, yarn, silk and satin. And it is wrapped around your head. During the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, the fun was still very wide, and then gradually narrowed, but the production was extremely fine. Embroidered with auspicious patterns and inlaid with pearls and precious stones. Women's wear in Qing dynasty followed the old system of Ming dynasty. For example, there were two beautiful women's heads in the early Qing Dynasty, Dai. From the picture, there are tulle and mink, which reflect the different styles and textures of wearing in different seasons. For example, in winter in the north, the cold wind blows hard, and it is mostly made of mink, which is called mink double forehead. In the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, it was the time when fun flourished. Both ladies-in-waiting and folk women make fun of it. Because of the difference between the rich and the poor, the texture and decoration of fun are different. This eyebrow cover is practical in the north, so it has been popular for a long time. In addition to fun, there is also a golden Covenant, which is similar in shape to fun, but narrower than fun.

Tassel is a favorite jewelry of Manchu women, and its shape is similar to hairpin. But there are several rows of beads hanging on the top of the hairpin, which move with people and keep swaying, much like walking in the eight categories of ancient jewelry. Bead-walking jewelry was first seen in the Han Dynasty, and at first it was only popular with court and aristocratic women in the Han Dynasty. What is shaking step? "Those who step and shake, with gold beads and jade, hang on the hairpin and step and shake it." Buyao belongs to the ritual jewelry of Han Dynasty, and its shape and texture are symbols of rank and status. After the Han Dynasty, Buyao was gradually seen by the people, and only then did it have the opportunity to spread widely in society. Among aristocratic women, there was also a time when a rocking crown was added to the crown. Wearing it on your head is more luxurious than walking.

In the "China Cultural Relics Exhibition" held in the Forbidden City, several gold tree walking crowns unearthed in Liaoning Province were exhibited. The golden tree is a crown umbrella, and each branch has more than 40 branches and twigs. There is one or two movable gold rings at the top of each twig, and each gold ring is tied with a gold leaf, which is extremely beautiful when touched lightly. Its excavation makes us feel the intelligence and superb creativity of our ancestors, and at the same time, we can learn about the luxury of the life of feudal emperors' concubines. In history, after the Tang and Song Dynasties, many changes have taken place in the shape of stepping stones. Besides gold, there are stepping stones made of precious materials such as jade, coral, glass, amber, turquoise and spar. Tang Yin, one of the four famous painters in the Ming Dynasty, wrote in the poem "Song of Recruiting the Sages": "Yujin steps to shake the silver finger, and the moon hangs on the dragon chair". It can be seen that "Yujin" was used in the Ming Dynasty, and it may be a stepping shape with metal and jewels. Among them, there are many new welding technologies popular in Ming Dynasty. In fact, the durability of gold wire welded with gold base and inlaid with pearls and gems is much higher than that of traditional crafts such as carving and stewing.

In Qing dynasty, the new welding technology was mostly adopted in step swing. In the Catalogue of Clothing Exhibition in Qing Dynasty compiled by the Palace Museum in Taiwan, there is a "phoenix jade bead", which is lined with metal welding, decorated with kingfisher feathers, with rubies and snow-white rice beads embedded in the eyes and red coral beads embedded on both sides. Phoenix is sideways, with two strings of small pearls more than ten centimeters long in its sharp mouth and a small green gourd in its corner. The whole walking posture is light and unique, and its materials are excellent, which is really rare.

In another catalog, there is another tassel with similar shape. At the top of the tassel connected with the pin, there is a golden halberd (an ancient combat weapon) with golden silk thread. There is a gold pendant on the halberd, and a string of beads is hung at each end of the pendant. One string is a pearl lapis lazuli bat with an emerald cover and a ruby pendant. Another string is pearl honey fish, emerald cover and ruby pendant. The whole tassel consists of halberd, stone, bat and fish. Homophonic "More than auspicious and festive" This tassel symbolizes auspiciousness and has a unique shape. It not only plays the role of decorating hair style, but also combines sense of humor, symbolism and homophonic. It is a masterpiece of tassel jewelry.

The original meaning of the word tassel refers to the colorful silk tassels used by ancient people to decorate chariots and horses. However, the step and the tassel are exactly the same in shape and function. As for why the name Buyao was not inherited, it was replaced by the word tassel, which needs further study in the future.

Manchu women like a variety of tassels.