Why does Hanbok handed down from Ming Dynasty cause misunderstanding? What's the difference between them?

Recently, a China painter was besieged by Koreans when he was painting, saying that his Hanfu was "copied" from Hanfu.

Screenshot of Korean drama "You from the Stars"

Portrait of Li Chenggui

China's dress is-Hanfu+Inner Sticker+Care+League Collar.

Korean clothing is-Chiguli+Tieli+Daihu+Tuanling.

Judging from the clothing style, the images of wearing big hats and robes in the Ming Dynasty portraits should be those painted in the early Ming Dynasty.

Imitation of Ming dynasty costumes: the first dress is a top hat, followed by a Taoist robe, and the outermost layer is a celadon yarn-dyed golden python pattern. This kind of hat is often mistaken for Korean characteristics. In fact, it is very common in various portraits of the Ming Dynasty, and similar objects have been unearthed in the tomb of Huang Luwang (model: Zhou Yu).

Korean Taoist robe

Daopao in Ming dynasty

Gold portrait

Gold portrait

This is the appearance of the Taoist robes wearing floating towels in the Ming Dynasty-

Portrait

This is the appearance of Taoist robes in the Ming Dynasty wearing a Tang scarf wrapped in a shroud-

Through the comparison of some details and legends just now, we can easily see that Korean costumes are not much different from Ming Dynasty costumes in appearance, but they are quite different in details.

The TV series "Daming Fenghua" is like this-

There will be no such "hat" on their jobs in the Ming Dynasty. Moreover, their work has never seen the exposed shape of the bun. In addition, the collar height of the official's lining robe is higher, that is to say, the collar of the lining robe should be exposed, rather than "hidden" under the group collar robe. There are pictures to prove it-

Then, this group of Koreans also launched the Hanbok challenge-

For us, this is not a dispute. The "Hanbok" in Korean population is well documented and originated in China. But we have to reflect on another problem. Why is such an obvious fact misunderstood?

Many people know Hanbok through Korean dramas-

Screenshot of Korean drama "You from the Stars"

Even for many young viewers, they often know Hanbok first, and then notice Hanbok made in the Ming Dynasty, so that when they see similar clothes, their first reaction is that it is Hanbok. But if we know a little about China's ancient costumes, we will know that the so-called "Hanbok" actually evolved from the costumes of the Ming Dynasty-

At first glance, many people will think that it was shot by Hanbok, but it is actually an imitation of the pink cassock of Shi Gan in the Ming Dynasty with a big hat. Most of the portraits of wearing big hats in the Ming Dynasty were not practiced with hats, but tied with knots. Hat precepts appear in a few portraits, mostly in the early Ming Dynasty. In addition, a hat drill was unearthed in the tomb of King Huang Lu, which was slightly shorter than the hat drill in the film (model: Zhou Yu).

Today, we will talk about the inheritance and differences between China's Ming Dynasty costumes and South Korea's Lee's Korean costumes in the Korean period and later period.

Ming Dynasty and Foreign Countries

After Zhu Yuanzhang, the founding emperor of the Ming Dynasty, established the Ming Dynasty, it had a great influence and vibration on the surrounding small countries. As a result, some countries established tribute or clan relations with Daming.

At that time, Korea established patriarchal relations with the Ming Dynasty. According to historical records, after the founding of the Ming Dynasty, the Korean dynasty sent envoys to Daming, and Zhu Yuanzhang gave it the new country name "Korea". Since then, the Korean peninsula has opened a new historical stage.

After the establishment of clan relations, what kind of clothing and badges North Korea should use became a difficult problem for the Rites and emperors of the Ming Dynasty, and it was difficult for the whole Hongwu to give an answer. The reason lies in Li Chenggui, the founding monarch of the Li Dynasty.

Portrait of Li Chenggui

Li Chenggui was the eldest son of Li Zichun, a thousand households in Wodong, Yuan Dynasty. 1356, Li Chenggui and his father helped King Gongcheng of the Koryo Dynasty recover the Shuangcheng General Administration and then joined Korea. During the Koryo Dynasty, Li Chenggui was promoted for successfully resisting the invasion of the Red Scarf Army in the Yuan Dynasty. Since then, Li Chenggui's power has continued to grow. 1388 launched the return of weihua island to the army, and took control of the Korean regime. 1392 made itself king.

Zhu Yuanzhang held a grudge against Li Chenggui's independence and refused to officially canonize Li Chenggui as "King of Korea". As a result, the official service cannot be realized.

After the emperor ascended the throne, in order to win over North Korea, he named his son "King of North Korea" and gave him nine crowns. This was the first time that Li was given Korean clothes in the Ming Dynasty.

After the war in Jingnan, Judy ascended the throne. In the first year of Yongle, Li Fangyuan asked for the coronation ceremony and calligraphy, and Judy of Ming Taizu "the family can enjoy the gift of China, giving the golden seal, imperial edict, nine chapters of coronation ceremony, imperial concubine, Yu Pei, princess Zhu Cui, seven crowns, one crown, one gold pendant and classic colored coins."

Finally, during the Yongle period, the Ming Dynasty and Lee Korea formally established diplomatic relations, and the two countries had a close blend of tribute relations and service badges for more than 269 years.

Differences between Hanfu and Hanfu in Ming Dynasty

Although the Ming Dynasty adorned North Korea, North Korea was limited by productivity, and there was always a gap between its imitation local costumes and those of the Ming Dynasty. How to quickly distinguish Ming Dynasty costumes from Korean costumes, just pay attention to these details.

1

The difference of official clothes

Why do some people confuse the difference between Hanfu made in Ming Dynasty and Hanfu? It is mainly because many people in China gain knowledge through film and television works, leaving mostly visual impressions, but they don't know what the purpose behind these costumes is and why they wear them like this. The China Silk Museum once held the exhibition "One Clothes with Water, Korean Traditional Clothing and Fabrics". We might as well talk about the clothes on display.

There are some unfamiliar details in Korean official uniforms, such as "group collar", "collocation", "deep coat", "Taoist robe", "square collar robe" and "gorgeous".

Having said that, if you know a little about Ming dynasty costumes, you may have noticed the clue-these costume terms are basically the costumes worn by literati in Ming dynasty, and some unfamiliar names are actually a kind of localized costumes made by Koreans.

So how to distinguish them carefully?

First of all, in the level of wearing official uniforms, the Ming Dynasty and North Korea are the same-

Official uniform grade = close-fitting clothes+one lining robe+two lining robes+outer robe

The specific situation is:

China's dress is-Hanfu+Inner Sticker+Care+League Collar.

Korean clothing is-Chiguli+Tieli+Daihu+Tuanling.

Suppose you are a North Korean official and want to meet friends in Daming. How should North Korean officials modify it? Let's use this formula to split layer by layer.

Come to the first floor first-

The first floor: Korean clothing Chigu Li

The first floor: Ming fu collar shirt

It is not difficult to find that the underwear sleeves of North Korean officials are straight, while those of Ming officials are curved. Hanbok underwear hem is also straight, and the hem of the Ming Dynasty has some extensions.

Look at the second floor—

Second floor: Hanbok Tieli I type

(From Bianbian Tomb, 1447- 1524)

The second layer: Ming Dynasty clothing paste I type.

(From Zhutan Tomb, 1370- 1390)

On the second floor, the Korean costume sticker is type III (left) (the cultural relic comes from Shen Jingyu's tomb, 158 1- 1633, copied by Quan Rongxuan).

Type III (right) Ming Dynasty costume sticker on the second floor (cultural relics were awarded to Toyotomi Hideyoshi in Wanli period of Ming Dynasty)

According to the above legend, the development order of North Korean officials' two-layer lined robes is similar to that of the Ming Dynasty, which gradually improved from the early Mongolian and Yuan costumes and became more and more Chinese.

And then the third floor—

The third layer: Korean clothing protection type I

(From Bianbian Tomb, 1447- 1524)

The third layer: the first type of clothing protection in Ming Dynasty.

(Cultural relics come from Hu Yu's tomb, 1438- 1500)

The third layer: Korean clothing protection type I

The third layer: the first type of clothing protection in Ming Dynasty.

This part of North Korea's clothing is still similar to that of the Ming Dynasty, from the early sleeveless or narrow sleeves to the later half sleeves. Slightly different, the amount of protection in the Ming Dynasty was greater, and the external pendulum was more obvious.

Finally, the fourth floor—

The fourth floor: Korean clothing group collar type I

(From Bianbian Tomb, 1447- 1524)

The fourth floor: I-type dress collar in Ming Dynasty.

(Cultural relics come from Hu Yu's tomb, 1438- 1500)

The fourth floor: Korean clothing group collar type II

(/kloc-cultural relics of the 6th century, copied in Jin Yanzhu)

The fourth layer: the second type of dress collar in Ming Dynasty.

(Cultural Relics Unearthed from the Ming Tomb of Feng Jiquan in Yanchi, Ningxia)

The development sequence of joint collar of North Korean officials was similar to that of Ming Dynasty, from the early narrow sleeves to the late big sleeves, and even to the late Ming Dynasty, which also reflected the progress and development of Lee's Korean handicraft industry.

North Korea's official dress (left) and Ming Dynasty's official dress (right)

Lee's Korean official uniform is generally smaller in appearance than that of the Ming Dynasty, and its style changes slowly, which may reach a lag period of nearly 50 years compared with that of the Ming Dynasty. It should be noted that the imitation of Lee's Korean national costume is limited by the level of productivity and the production of a small amount of raw silk, so the overall style of the costume is relatively simple and fixed.

Screenshot of the domestic movie "Enemy Trail", the characters in the film are right to use the net towel. In the picture, the old man wears a square scarf obliquely, but the old man wears a group collar robe inside and a half-sleeve straight-lined robe outside. This collocation has not yet found an empirical legend.

We can sum up the main differences between Korean official uniforms and Ming official uniforms:

The first is the sleeve type. The sleeves of Korean costumes are slightly straighter than those of the official uniforms in the Ming Dynasty, mostly straight sleeves and small sleeve, while the official uniforms in the Ming Dynasty developed from straight sleeves in the early stage to big sleeves in the middle and late stage.

Secondly, the width of the robe. The width of Korean official uniforms is generally close to that of the Ming Dynasty, which is the main reason why many people think that they are similar. However, if the plane is compared, we will find that the hem radian of Korean robes is not as round as that of Ming Dynasty. Therefore, Korean costumes often give people the feeling of "straight up and down", while the radian of the hem of Ming Dynasty costumes gives people an elegant feeling.

In the late Ming Dynasty, a single bird in a pointed round neck robe was placed as a real thing.

(Collection of Shandong Museum, Old Collection of Confucius House)

Finally, the evolution of the pendulum. There was no such structure as "outward swing" in the early Ming Dynasty, but an inward pleated structure, and the "outward swing structure" only appeared in the late Ming Dynasty. By the end of the Ming Dynasty, the outward swing had changed from a "flat swing" to a "pointed swing", and during this period, the evolution of the Korean costume "swing" was faster, which can be proved by the image of Kim, the last ambassador to Japan.

Gold portrait

2

Scholars' clothing differences

Well, after we meet the official friends of North Korea, let's see how the scholars dress. Distinguish the difference of scholar's clothing, mainly from the "Taoist robe". In fact, this is also the most important costume that caused the misunderstanding between Hanfu and Hanfu in Ming Dynasty.

Judging from the clothing style, the images of wearing big hats and robes in the Ming Dynasty portraits should be those painted in the early Ming Dynasty.

First of all, explain what a "Taoist robe" is. "Tao" here does not refer to Taoist costumes. In the novel Jin Ping Mei in the Ming Dynasty, there is such a description of Taoist robes: "Soon, I came, wearing Xiao scarf and white clothes? The robes, onions, white boots and socks bowed to the count and others and sat down. " "For a long time, please come out with the housekeeper Zhai, wearing sandals, clean socks and a blue silk robe." In addition, a garment with the words "big sleeves lined with Taoist robes" written in ink was also unearthed in Dingling, Emperor Wanli of Ming Shenzong.

Imitating the robes of the Ming Dynasty, the towels are fluttering. Taoist robes are one of the main casual clothes of the Han people in the Ming Dynasty. They are covered with fluttering towels before and after, which are quite elegant. This kind of towel hat was quite popular in the late Ming Dynasty, and the Taoist robes in the late Ming Dynasty were also wider than those in the early Ming Dynasty (model: Zhou Yu)

Taoist robes were quite popular in the Ming Dynasty. They are a kind of everyday casual clothes, which can be worn as a lining outside. The requirements for identity are not high. From the housekeeper to the son of heaven, they all have their own robes in their closets.

Imitation of Ming dynasty costumes: the first dress is a top hat, followed by a Taoist robe, and the outermost layer is a celadon yarn-dyed golden python pattern. This kind of hat is often mistaken for Korean characteristics. In fact, it is very common in various portraits of the Ming Dynasty, and similar objects have been unearthed in the tomb of Huang Luwang (model: Zhou Yu).

So, what's the difference between Korean cassock and Ming Dynasty cassock?

Korean Taoist robe

Daopao in Ming dynasty

Let's look at the upper body renderings through portraits. This is the appearance of Korean Taoist robes wearing Tang silk scarves-

Gold portrait

This is what it looks like to wear Zhuge scarf outside the Korean Taoist robe-

Gold portrait

This is the appearance of the Taoist robes wearing floating towels in the Ming Dynasty-

Portrait

This is the appearance of Taoist robes in the Ming Dynasty wearing a Tang scarf wrapped in a shroud-

The difference between Taoist robes in Ming Dynasty and Korean Taoist robes is mainly reflected in the details.

The first is the collar. The bottom of the collar of the Taoist robe in Ming Dynasty is straight, and there is a corner under the collar of North Korea, forming a posture similar to lying down.

Secondly, the armpit, the sleeve root position of the Ming dynasty Taoist robes is approximately regarded as a straight line, and the included angle of the armpit is relatively large, while the sleeve root of the Korean Taoist robes is not, and the included angle of the armpit is relatively sharp.

Finally, the width of the collar, the width of the collar of the Korean Taoist robe is narrower than that of the Ming Dynasty.

Through the comparison of some details and legends just now, we can easily see that Korean costumes are not much different from Ming Dynasty costumes in appearance, but they are quite different in details.

Screenshot of the Korean drama "Roots", the young man on the left side of the picture is wearing a square scarf and a Taoist robe. The old man on the right is wearing a black hat with a robe and a protective cover inside.

Although many styles of Korean clothing are similar to those of the Ming Dynasty in overall appearance, their manufacturing techniques are quite different from those of the Ming Dynasty. For example, the differences in collar type, side swing and sleeve connection are rooted in the differences in knitting ability between China and North Korea at that time. At that time, China could weave fabrics with a width of more than 75 cm, while North Korea could only weave fabrics with a width of about 40 cm. The difference in width between the two also leads to the similarity in appearance of clothing styles, but there are many differences internally.

In addition, it should be noted that North Korea, as a vassal country of the Ming Dynasty, has always maintained the habit of learning. Therefore, although the national strength of North Korea at that time was not as good as that of Ming Dynasty, they had many habits of China, such as extending the habit of wearing a high black hat in Wanli to the later period, and improving the horizontal collar shape in Ming Dynasty costumes into a straight collar shape. At the same time, it also has its own clothing characteristics, such as Chinese-made Mo, round shirt, Tang suit and Han Shenfu. These characteristics of their own country also provided an indispensable solid foundation for their later clothing development.

Why is the influence of Hanbok expanding?

Ming Dynasty costumes were introduced into Lee's Korea from Yongle period until the demise of the Ming Dynasty. After it was introduced into Korea, handicraft workers localized it, but the overall style was limited by the Ming Dynasty, the suzerain country. In other words, before the demise of the Ming Dynasty, the costumes of Lee Koreans were similar to those of the Ming Dynasty.

In A.D. 1644, when the Ming Dynasty perished, the rulers of the Qing Dynasty forcibly issued the decree of "shaving hair and changing clothes" for the sake of ruling. Since then, great changes have taken place in China's costumes, and the shapes of Hanfu in Ming Dynasty gradually disappeared from people's vision.

Stills of TV series "Ruyi Palace Love"

However, the Qing Dynasty did not restrict Lee's Hanbok. Therefore, after the demise of the Ming Dynasty, Korean clothing that lost its clothing standards and imitation objects completely gave up imitation, but was completely transformed and recast.

It should be noted that Koreans today will also say that their country's style at a certain point in time is extremely disordered when sorting out the first clothing change in history. At the same time, they will also regard the demise of the Ming Dynasty as an important time node, which may be related to the continuation of Hanbok in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, but it was not correctly guided.

A summary of the evolution of Korean top hat

On the one hand, it is the fault transformation from Hanfu to flag clothing, on the other hand, it is the continuous local integration of Korean clothing. When we bid farewell to the ancient society and enter the modern society, we will feel the different costumes of Han and Tang Dynasties and Ming and Qing Dynasties through costume dramas, and understand the consistent Korean costumes through Korean dramas, so we will naturally have a deeper impression on the single Hanfu.

In addition, there is another problem that has to be admitted. In terms of costumes of costume dramas, domestic dramas are indeed full of mistakes and omissions, which makes the audience have many misunderstandings about ancient Chinese costumes. For example, the same official costume, although the presentation of Korean dramas is not completely correct, it is basically close to-

Screenshot of the Korean drama "Wang", North Korean officials dressed in early league robes.

The TV series "Daming Fenghua" is like this-

Screenshot of TV series "Daming Fenghua"

There will be no such "hat" on their jobs in the Ming Dynasty. Moreover, their work has never seen the exposed shape of the bun. In addition, the collar height of the official's lining robe is higher, that is to say, the collar of the lining robe should be exposed, rather than "hidden" under the group collar robe. There are pictures to prove it-

Example diagram of official work in Hongxi period

And the coronation suit worn by the emperor. The domestic drama is like this-

Emperor Hongxi in Ming Fenghua was crowned on the Twelve Islands of Ryukyu with twelve chapters.

The main fault here is the crown of the twelve islands of Ryukyu, and the props group added "dragon pattern" and "jade cicada" to the picture. In addition, the hair pin of the crown should be made of jade hairpin instead of gold hairpin, and there will be no loose shoelaces on both sides of the crown.

On September 6th, 14th year of Orthodox Church, Zhu Qiyu (Zhou Yu), dressed in a coronation suit and holding a jade laurel, made sacrifices to heaven, earth, state and ancestral temple, and officially became the emperor. Zhu Qiyu's coronation ceremony is a dress worn by Ming Chengzu when he offered sacrifices to heaven, earth, ancestral temple and country, and held books and other important ceremonies. The coronation ceremony in the picture was carried out in Yongle for three years and was used until the early years of Jiajing. The crown is round at the front and round at the back, and there are 12 pendants at the front and back. Each pendant is colored with red, white, blue, yellow and black jade beads. The sun, the moon and the dragon are on the shoulders, and the stars and mountains are on the back. Yu Gui in his hand is one foot two inches long, engraved with four mountain patterns, and Huang Qi is placed under Gui. Photography/Song Yidong

Only by not forgetting the source of history can we go further.

Arguing about right and wrong for a while is fleeting after all. To truly treat both the symptoms and the root causes, it is necessary to continuously carry out more systematic and organized science popularization of excellent historical culture, and promote historical film and television works with a more authentic, comprehensive and vivid look. Only in this way can we really take the initiative in the disputes between many cultures and traditions.

References:

Daming huidian

Shi Ming road

Ming Tomb of Ji Feng in Yanchi County, Ningxia

A brief report on the investigation of Ming Tombs in Tongxiang, Zhejiang Province

Brief report on cleaning Hu Yu's tomb in the western suburbs of Taizhou

Brief report on the cleaning of Liu Jian's family tomb in Taizhou

The tomb of King Huang Lu.

Cultural relics unearthed from Shen Jingyu's tomb

Cultural relics unearthed from border tombs