What color of dragon robe did the emperors of all dynasties wear in history?

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The Great View of Dragon Robes in All Ages

The map of Emperor's Coronation Clothes, Coronation Crowns, and Bare Slippers during the Han Dynasty (with reference to the textual records and the restoration of the ceramic figurines and the portrait stones excavated from the Han Tombs in Jinan, Shandong Province and the Han Tombs in Yinan, Yinan, Shandong Province). This figure is restored and drawn according to the documentary records and pattern information, and most of the patterns on the garments are adopted from the brick paintings, lacquer paintings, silk paintings and portrait bricks of the same period. Coronet, is the ancient imperial courtiers to participate in sacrificial ceremonies worn by the ceremonial crown. It was used as the sacrificial dress worn by the emperor, the dukes, and so on. The top of the crown, there is a rounded rectangular coronet plate, the coronet plate before and after the hanging "tassel".

The tassels, depending on the number and quality of different materials, are an important symbol of the distinction between inferiority and superiority. The Han Dynasty stipulated that the emperor's crown was twelve tassels (i.e., twelve rows), made of jade. The color of the crown, mainly black. On both sides of the crown, each has a hole, used to insert jade maturity, to tie the knot with the bun. And on both sides of the matrices tied with a ribbon, tied under the jaw. In the ribbon on the two ears, but also each hanging a bead jade, called "Yun ear". Not stuffed into the ear, just hanging in the ear to remind the wearer of the crown should not listen to slander. Later generations of "allow the ear does not hear" phrase, that is, from this. According to the regulations, where the wearer of the crown, all have to wear a coronation dress. Coronet to Xuan upper garment, vermilion-colored lower garment, the upper and lower painted with chapter patterns. In addition, there is also a cover knee, wear a ribbon, red slippers and so on. Composition of a complete set of clothing. This clothing system began in the Zhou Dynasty, through the Han, Tang, Song and Yuan dynasties, has continued to the Qing Dynasty, extending more than two thousand years.

Diagram of the Emperor's Coronation, Coronation Crown, and Red Slippers in the Han Dynasty

Emperor's Plainclothes in the Period of Wei, Jin, and North and South Dynasties

The image of the God of Luo painted in the diagram is a popular attire during the Eastern Jin Dynasty, no matter whether it is from the point of view of the hair style or the clothes. Men in the Wei and Jin Dynasties generally wore shirts with large fluttering sleeves, and such shirts remained a favorite among men of all classes until the Southern Dynasties period, when they became an instant fashion. The emperor in the picture wears a white gauze hat on his head and a white wearing wide-sleeved fox skin coat (shaped like a big-sleeved shirt), with his hair outside. Hand-held Ruyi, is also a custom favored by the Southern Dynasties.

Sui-Tang Five Dynasties Emperor dress

Sui-Tang period, the unification of the north and south, a vast territory, economically developed and frequent exchanges between China and foreign countries, reflecting the consolidation of the Tang regime and strong. In clothing and dress also reached an unprecedented period of prosperity. Sui and Tang dynasties, the common people, officials and eunuchs men generally wear round neck robes, shirts, from the emperor down to the handyman can wear, for the time of the uniform. This picture shows the emperor wearing a lapel, wide-sleeved shirt.

Yuan Dynasty aristocrats in civilian clothes

This picture is the image of Genghis Khan. Wearing white inside black leather crown (sable warm hat), wearing light beige woolen shirt, forehead hair slightly exposed, hanging to the end of the cap to the left and right points scattered. Under the crown, there was a hairpin (a hairpin made of two braids) hanging behind the ear. According to the record of the "Yuan Shi Miyoshi Zhi", "the white powdered skin is crowned with a white gold hat, and the silver rat is crowned with a silver rat hat". This statue for the white gold warm hat wearing brocade robe of the emperor.

Late Ming Dynasty gold woof peacock feather dragon robe

Circumference embroidered with dragon patterns. From the style of the garment, the style is a slant-collar robe for the emperor's casual wear. Dragon pattern from the ancient development to the Ming Dynasty, the energy of countless changes. In general, the pre-Qin dragon pattern, the image is relatively simple and rugged, most of the limbs and claws, similar to reptiles. Qin and Han period of the dragon pattern, more beast-shaped, limbs and claws, but no scale armor, often painted as walking, giving people a feeling of emptiness.

Emperor of the Ming Dynasty regular clothing

Wearing a scarf, wearing a dish collar, narrow sleeves, embroidered dragon robe of the emperor (Nanxun Hall of the old collection of "successive emperors and kings statue"). The scarf is worn by the emperor in his regular clothes, and the style is basically the same as that of the hat, except that the left and right corners are folded upward and erected after the hat. Plate collar, narrow sleeves, embroidered dragon robe, is the emperor's regular clothes. The regular clothes, also known as the wing good crown, this service has more uses. Ming dynasty emperor's regular clothes, clothing to yellow damask, embroidered dragon, Zhai pattern and twelve chapters of the pattern.

Ming Dynasty Emperor's regular clothes Emperor's regular clothes show picture

Regular clothes, also known as wing good crown, wearing a silk folding on the scarf, the style of the disk collar, narrow sleeves, front and back and both shoulders embroidered with gold plate dragon pattern, jade belt leather boots. This suit has more uses. Ming dynasty emperor's regular clothes, clothing to yellow damask, embroidered dragon, Zhai pattern and twelve chapter pattern.

Qing dynasty emperor dress

Qing dynasty emperor dress has the court dress, auspicious dress, regular dress, line dress. The emperor's dragon robe belongs to the category of auspicious clothing, than the court dress, gun suit and other dresses slightly inferior, usually more often wear. When wearing the dragon robe, must wear the crown of the suit, bundled with the suit and hang the beads. Dragon robe in bright yellow is also available in gold and apricot yellow and other colors. In ancient times, said the emperor's position, for the nine or five. Nine, five two numbers, usually symbolizes the noble, in the imperial building, living utensils and other aspects are reflected. The emperor's dragon robe of the Qing Dynasty, according to documents, also embroidered with nine dragons.

Emperor of the Qing dynasty dress

Emperor of the Qing dynasty dress has the court dress, auspicious clothing, regular clothing, line clothing. The emperor's court dress and wear the crown, divided into winter and summer two styles. The difference between winter and summer court dress is mainly in the edge of the clothes, spring and summer with satin, autumn and winter with precious fur for the edge of the decoration. The color of the court dress is mainly yellow, with bright yellow for the noble, only in the sacrifice of the sky with blue, red towards the sun, and white at the time of the moon with white. The pattern of court dress is mainly dragon pattern and twelve chapters pattern. Generally in front of the front, behind the back and two arms embroidered dragon each one; waist curtain embroidered rows of dragons five creases (tucks) before and after the embroidered group of nine dragons; clothing embroidered two dragons, rows of dragons four; shawl embroidered rows of dragons two; sleeves embroidered dragons each one.

■ ■ Deciphering the Qing dynasty royal robe in the "code"

A mention of the Qing dynasty royal robe, most people will immediately associate with the "Qing dynasty theater" in the emperor's wear: a long, bright yellow robes, the top of the dragons coiled around. Unbeknownst to them, the imperial robe actually has a complex variety and style, the emperor in different occasions will be different.

"The Qing emperor's clothing is not just a piece of clothing so simple, since the ancient Yellow Emperor and Yao, Shun 'hanging clothes and the world rule' began, the crown clothing beyond the practical function of sheltering the body from the cold, and has a 'strict internal and external, Ming rank, identify the inferiority and superiority' social attributes". 's social attributes," the Palace Museum of the Qing dynasty dress expert Fang Hongjun told reporters, "the Qing dynasty emperor and queen dress is the product of the traditional ritual system tends to be highly mature, the Palace collection of nearly 20,000 pieces of the Qing dynasty emperor and queen clothing has also become an important part of the collection of cultural relics in the Palace, but also China's most complete Qing dynasty dress collection.

'Clothing color Pinzhang, show a generation of canonical rules', the color of the imperial robes, styles, and the subtle patterns on them, all have a profound meaning." So, the reporter in the room under the leadership of Hongjun, one by one interpretation of the royal robe in the "code", looking for the needle and thread behind the historical meaning.

■ ■ The emperor on TV often "messy clothes"

In recent years, the Qing dynasty drama on TV is very hot, and whether it is said or said, film and television works of the emperor's wear is often wrong. Some experts pointed out that some of the film and television dramas, the emperor wore a dragon robe but wearing a crown, with the "bull's-eye"; there are actors in the arm of the clothing appeared in the dragon pattern is not right, the emperor's clothing where the dragon pattern, the form and number of appearances are strictly regulated.

In the face of this phenomenon, room Hongjun appeared very worried: "There is a widespread misinterpretation of the emperor's clothing, which of course, with the film and television writers do not understand the system of clothing in the Qing Dynasty, but there are also research institutions to the public propaganda is too small a factor." Fang Hongjun told reporters, the emperor of the Qing dynasty clothing is basically divided into dress, auspicious clothing, regular clothing, line clothing, rain clothing and casual clothing several categories. Which dress including robe, end cover (a coat) and robe (can be worn with the robe set, but also with the dragon robe and regular robe with the clothes); Auspicious clothing, including robe, dragon robe; regular clothing is between the dress and plainclothes between a kind of clothing; go out or hunting wear line clothing, rain and snow days wear rain clothes. Visible, people usually often say "dragon robe", in fact, just as the emperor in a category of clothing, mainly used for major festivals and the first Nongtan emperor pro-plowing and other occasions. And the audience in the movie and television drama to see the imperial robe, more belong to the regular or casual clothing this kind of.

Fang Hongjun pointed out that the emperor in the Qing dynasty in several categories of clothing, the robe is the emperor in the ascension to the throne, the wedding, Halloween, New Year's Day, the winter solstice, sacrifices to heaven, sacrifices to the ground, and other major ceremonies and rituals worn by the dress, according to the different seasons, there are seasons of the leather, cotton, folder, single, yarn, a variety of texture, the color is not the only one is generally accepted as a bright yellow, but there are yellow, red, blue, and moonlight white (light blue). and moon white (light blue) four colors. According to the Qing dynasty, "the Qing dynasty canon" stipulates that the emperor's general "color with bright yellow", but also used for the Imperial Palace of congratulations and the altar of the Earth, the first Nongtan and sacrificed to the temple and other occasions. As for the other colors of the wear, the altar of heaven and the altar of heaven to pray for the blue, the altar of the sun with red, the altar of the moon with the moon white, that is, light blue.

In addition, the basic style of the robe is the upper garment, the lower garment connected to the robe, embroidered with thirty-four gold dragons throughout the body, the two sleeves are embroidered with gold dragons, the collar is embroidered with gold dragons. Another with arrow sleeves and cape collar, the two is the Qing dynasty court dress remarkable features. In addition, the Qing dress system also provides, wearing different costumes, with different crowns and hats, such as court dress crowns, crowns, regular clothes crowns, line clothing crowns accordingly, and the waist should be tied to the corresponding waist "belt", wearing court dresses Department of court dress belt, wearing uniforms, wearing uniforms, Department of uniforms, and so on.

■ "Dragon robe" above not only the dragon sings the lead

So, as one of the emperor's robe, it is covered with dragon patterns? In the room under the guidance of Hongjun, the reporter found that the dragon robe in addition to the dragon singing "protagonist", but also full of all kinds of "supporting role", and even the usual people do not like bats are also in it.

Fan Hongjun told reporters, the dragon robe on each pattern actually has a rich meaning. To the Qing Qianlong bright yellow satin embroidered colorful cloud bat gold dragon twelve chapters of the robe, for example, the dragon robe embroidered nine gold dragon. Dragon embroidered to sit upright, a group of majesty, rows of dragons embroidered very energetic, seems to move and not move. Four positive dragons embroidered in the dragon robe in the most prominent position - the front chest, back and shoulders, four rows of dragons in the front and back of the lapel hem part, so that the front and back look are five dragons, which means nine or five supreme. "But we so roughly counted down but only eight golden dragons, which is recorded with the history books have discrepancies, so some people speculate that the emperor is the real dragon son of heaven, itself is a golden dragon, wearing a dragon robe after the golden dragon reached nine. In fact, it is not, this ninth golden dragon is being embroidered on the inner lapel, you have to lift the outer lapel to see it."

The Kangxi Emperor's court dress

In addition, the dragon robe is embroidered with colorful clouds, bats, twelve chapters, and other auspicious motifs between the dragon patterns. Five-color cloud pattern is indispensable decorative patterns on the dragon robe, both to show the auspicious signs and play a supporting role. Red bat pattern that red bat, its pronunciation and "Hongfu" the same, is also commonly used on the dragon robe decorative patterns. In the hem of the dragon robe arranged on behalf of the curves of the deep sea, which is known as the foot of the water, the foot of the water is decorated with rolling waves, standing rocks, this pattern is called "seawater river cliffs," which means the blessing of the mountains and the sea of longevity.

Although the Manchu rulers in order to maintain their dignity do not want to be Sinicized, but in order to strengthen its authoritarian rule, created by the Han Chinese people's dress hierarchy is still accepted by the Manchu rulers, embodied in the Dragon Robe, the most profound allegory is the twelve chapters of the pattern. Even though their area is relatively small, coupled with the bright colors and rich patterns of the Qing dynasty emperor's gowns, people overlooked this has a long history, rich in decorations. In fact, the twelve chapters of the pattern contains the most good and beautiful emperor, symbolizing the emperor is the master of the earth, its power "such as the greatness of heaven and earth, all things are contained in, such as the sun and the moon of the bright, eight parties within the light". In addition to the dragon robe as the representative of the suit, the Qing emperor's gowns, clothes, line clothing are not lacking in Han culture, some of the characteristics of China's traditional dress in fact, in the Manchu ruler's clothing has been passed on to the same lineage.

■Horseshoe sleeves and shawl collars symbolize riding and shooting

The Manchu learned Chinese culture after entering the country and paid more attention to etiquette and dress. However, with the changes in the living environment, the robe arrow sleeve has lost its practical role, so the issue of clothing reform has been reintroduced. Fang Hongjun told reporters that the Qing dynasty Manchu early in the Guanwai establishment of the Jin regime has begun to set the crown system, Nurhachu, Huang taiji, Shunzhi, Kangxi, Yongzheng five dynasties revised to Qianlong tends to be more perfect. In general, the Qing dynasty in the ritual system more inheritance of the Ming dynasty, and with reference to the ancient rites of the Central Plains tradition, its crown system is detailed and rigorous, especially in the ornamentation chapter on the continuation of the traditional Chinese culture of the crown. But the Manchu rulers and history as a lesson, repeatedly emphasized the importance of no change of clothing to protect the riding of the national simplicity of anger, training for the country's fundamentals. So the Qing Dynasty crown always in the form of retaining some important features of the nation.

Emperor Qianlong's court dress

Fang Hongjun pointed out that the Qing dynasty's crown clothing retained in the national characteristics and hunting the production of the nation's life is closely related to the profound meaning and connotation. Such as the emperor and queen of the robe on the horseshoe sleeves, shawl collar and the empress of the two shoulders decorated with the "edge" of the half-moon decorations, respectively, symbolizing the image of the horse's hooves, bows and saddles, will be the Manchu people riding and shooting campaign "right away to get the world" of the glorious history of the full expression. Especially the arrow sleeve of the traditional Manchu clothing, although the Customs lost the actual role, but the arrow sleeve as a Manchu salute (i.e., the Manchu language "put waha") to be retained. Arrow sleeves, also known as horseshoe sleeves, usually pulled up into a horseshoe shape, a salute when encountered, agile "sleeve head" turned down, and then either half or full salute. This etiquette in the Qing Dynasty after the capital of Beijing, has not been limited to the Manchu, Han Chinese are also used as a gift, to show that focus on observance. Therefore, the horseshoe sleeve to cover the hand can be cold, pulled up and down can be salute, both practical function, but also has a good decorative effect, and was known as "reflecting the history of the Qing dynasty hieroglyphics". Qing dynasty emperor dress is this, the traditional characteristics and the perfect fusion of national elements, and in addition to the square inch in the clothing, Manchu, Chinese two cultures can also be in a broader world and peace **** place.

■Wearing the wrong clothes can lead to the "disaster of death"

As early as in the Chongde period of the Qing royal family set down the "up and down the crown and clothing system" and shall not "change the first forgotten" admonition. admonition. To the Qianlong thirty-seventh year (AD 1772) also put forward the "ancestors into the Constitution are, it is appropriate to always keep do not offend," and ultimately decided in line with the principle of "not lightly change the ancestral teachings," the principle of maintaining the characteristics of Manchu costumes at the same time, absorbing the colors and chapters of the Han Chinese imperial dress Decorations, and then make some additions to the dress system, the formation of the final rules and regulations to determine down, and extremely strict. Qing Shunzhi nine years (1652) in April Oracle: "Where prohibited clothes, such as: three paws, five paws full of water satin round filler, yellow, autumn incense color, black fox skin, are not allowed to stay at home. The rest of the overgrown clothes, such as the imperial gift allowed to wear, if not the imperial gift, listen to its sale is not allowed to wear ...... "According to the Kangxi nine years (1670), the King of the government agreed to dress system:" civil public below, there are officials above the top band, prohibit the wearing of five paws, three paws python satin full of Cui satin round filler clothes, black Fox skin, yellow, autumn incense color clothes ......"

Fang Hongjun told reporters, the Qing dynasty crown and clothing system has a comprehensive, systematic, serious, the emperor every year in the autumn trial, the "service system to beheading offenders" to reach the almost crazy! Cruelty. According to the Qianlong forty-seven years (1782) in September, "the Qing Record" in: "c wu, on the Royal according to the Qingkuang hook to the fall trial of the official prisoners, the service system and Yunnan, Guizhou, the situation in fact criminals. Suspension of official prisoners beheaded six people, four people hanged, service system beheaded forty-two people, Yunnan hanged seven people, Guizhou beheaded one person, hanged eight people ...... "visible because of the service system beheaded prisoners in the death penalty accounted for a considerable proportion of prisoners.

The Empress Dowager winter skirt

However, to the late Qing Dynasty, in the crown system, although more focus on red tape, but in fact with the decline of the regime, some systems have changed, not free of some of the arbitrary, the restraints on the system of clothing is also increasingly lax. Qianlong himself had lamented: "Every year in the fall trial, murderers have not been able to kill, can not be extravagant over the rituals of the people, and then one rope to three feet? At this time I can not do, really do not bear to do, but also do not have to do also ...... "room Hongjun pointed out that, according to theory, the Qianlong dynasty service policy should be quite strict, but with the consolidation of the regime and the Qing dynasty's comprehensive national strength continues to grow, this strict policy in the Qianlong dynasty began to loosen in the late period. The reason for this, in addition to the luxury of the world and Qianlong to implement a soft policy, another factor is the law is not responsible for the people and the real out of helplessness.

●Related

◆Twelve chapters on the dragon robe

The twelve chapters of the dragon robe include: sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, Chinese insects, zongyi, algae, fire, powder rice, embroidery, 黻. Twelve chapter pattern development over thousands of years, each chapter decoration has a meaning, the sun, the moon, the stars on behalf of the three light shining, symbolizing the emperor's imperial grace, shining in all directions. The mountain represents a stable character, symbolizing the emperor's ability to govern the four directions of water and soil. The dragon, a divine beast with many variations, symbolizes the emperors' skill in judging the time and situation to deal with state affairs and teaching the people. The Chinese bug, usually a pheasant, symbolizes the king's "literary excellence". Zong Yi, an ancient ritual object, usually a pair of embroidered tigers and crocodiles, symbolized the emperor's virtues of loyalty and filial piety. Algae, on the other hand, symbolizes the emperor's character of ice and jade. Fire, symbolizing the emperor to deal with political affairs brightly and openly, the fire upward also has a rate of Shi Qun Li to return to the upper order of the meaning. Powdered rice, that is, white rice, symbolizing the emperor to feed the people, to settle the country, attaching importance to agriculture and mulberry. (黼), in the shape of an axe, symbolizing the emperor's ability to do things boldly. (黻), the two characters of the word "己" are opposite to each other, symbolizing the emperor's virtue of being able to distinguish between right and wrong, and correcting himself when he knows he has made a mistake.

◆ Making a robe took two years

The emperor of the Qing dynasty clothing by the Interior Department of Canton Reserve Division to formulate the style of color and application of the number of Zao allowed, the satin length and width of the size, texture, pattern, color and lustre have clear provisions. Such as the archives of the "imperial edict" repeatedly recorded that the official bureau of the weaving of satin "must be uniform warp and weft, width and length of the appropriate, exquisite pattern, color and luster", such as substandard quality, the need to make up for the penalty of salary or flogging.

According to the Qing dynasty palace data, the production of a robe must be based on the Ministry of Rites, or the emperor's title by the House of Painters drawing heavy brushwork samples, to the eunuch in charge of the emperor's Royal Palace, or by the Minister of the House of Ministers directly after reviewing the approval of the pieces together with the sent Jiangning (Nanjing), Suzhou, Hangzhou, three weaving division weaving. Jiangning weaving is responsible for the imperial colorful brocade, Suzhou weaving damask, silk, brocade, yarn, Luo, woof, embroidery and Hangzhou weaving office weaving the imperial robe, silk, silk, Hangzhou silk, etc..

It is reported that the three weavers weaved into the pi material and then sent to the tailoring, embroidery, clothing, embroidery by the Ruyi Hall painter design color samples, after review, according to the size of the finished product enlarged coloring sent to the House of Representatives and Jiangnan Weaving Yamen belonging to the embroidery for production. After completion of the land route to Beijing, such as the harem used by water transportation to Beijing. During the period of nearly 500 people with embroidery, embroidery gold worker more than 40 people, drawing samples over powder more than 10 people, totaling nearly a thousand people. Such as embroidery by a person will take 2 years and 5 months to complete, during this period, the wearer's physique has even changed, smart craftsmen in the weaving stage on the edge of the fabric to leave enough room for change.

It is recorded that the emperor changed his clothes many times a day, sometimes two to three times a day. Inside the Qing Palace, there is a Shangyi Supervisor, the emperor's robes and clothing, and a special clothing library, the emperor's usual clothes and crown management, and a large group of eunuchs to wait for the emperor to change their clothes