Japanese kimono, classification!

According to the public's understanding, modern kimono (women's clothing) can generally be divided into:

(From everyday to formal)

Everyday casual clothes: bathrobe

Everyday clothes: knitting

Small lines, no color.

Between dress and daily clothes: payment.

Second clothing: visit and leave sleeves.

The first dress: vibrating sleeves and black sleeves

Wedding dress: white and flawless, hung and hung.

Bathrobe is a kind of kimono casual clothes worn in summer, which is characterized by light and colorful fabrics. Its shape, tailoring and dress are basically the same as kimono. But unlike formal clothes and kimonos, you don't need to wear "loops" (and underwear), and the fabric used is light and thin, so it is very cool and light.

In modern Japan, bathrobes are generally worn by young people when they take part in sacrificial activities (fireworks show, stick festival) in summer. When going to a hot spring hotel to soak in hot springs, most hotels will also provide relatively simple and uniform bathrobes for guests to wear.

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The prototype of bathrobe comes from heian period's "Tang Wei Zi". According to heian period Japanese Names Collection, there is a bathrobe made of underwear cloth. At that time, there were often several people taking a bath at the same time. It is estimated that Tang appeared to absorb sweat and cover his body. It is said that soup curtains at that time were generally made of linen with good water absorption.

After the Taoshan era, this kind of clothes used to absorb body moisture after bathing began to spread widely, and it has become a favorite clothing for ordinary people until the Edo era.

The name "ゆかた" of the bathrobe was omitted from the soup curtain "ゆかたびら ".

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Bathrobe is the simplest structure in kimono, it only has one layer of cloth, and because the cloth (cotton cloth and linen cotton cloth) used to make bathrobes is unrestricted and easy to buy, many families in modern times can sew bathrobes themselves.

When wearing a bathrobe, you can wear it directly on your body. You only need to wear one more muscle ring inside at most. Its wearing method is the same as ordinary kimono.

Bathrobe usually uses a "half belt" with a width of 15- 18 cm as a belt, and can also be decorated with a "soldier belt". In addition, this year, because young people in Japan don't know how to wear kimono more and more, a simple "modeling belt" has emerged, and now it is very common to wear bathrobes with modeling belts.

As for shoes, the appropriate way to wear bathrobes is to wear clogs barefoot, but in recent years, there have also been people wearing sandals, sandals and even flip-flops and western-style sandals.

Because bathrobe is one of the most casual clothes in kimono, it is impolite to wear it to more formal occasions (tea party, blind date, wedding, etc.). ).

Woven kimono is the most casual one in formal dress. This kind of kimono is made of cloth woven by peasant women in the past, so it is generally strong and full of simple beauty. Now weaving kimono refers to the kimono that is dyed online first, then woven with cloth, and finally sewn. , imperial edict, mumian these kinds.

What is the most advanced? Although it is the most casual kimono, it is often expensive. Perhaps it is because in this era when handmade products are more valuable, it is very valuable as a handmade thing. This elegant and charming kimono is generally suitable for traveling, shopping and having a light meal.

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Until the middle of Showa, most families in rural areas still owned looms. Those sericulture farmers suck the cocoons with poor grades to death, and then spin them into threads one by one with their fingers. After dyeing with orchids, it is woven into plaid and striped cloth. so this is it？ .

During the Edo period, the regulations on clothing were very strict. Still? Although it is a kind of silk, it does not have the shape of silk, probably because people are allowed to wear it. In this way, traditional and unique ones were born all over Japan? Make kimonos. All kinds? China and Oshima? Yuuki Tsumugi , hey? Is it the top three in Japan? .

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When weaving kimonos, you can usually match some accessories with strong manual atmosphere and simple style. Log-colored hair clips and simple handbags.

Filial piety is one of the daily formal kimonos, which is simple but expensive? Xiaowen is very close to the people in terms of price and pattern.

"Clothes are covered with small patterns" is the origin of the name of this kimono. Compared with other kimonos, such as "paying" and "visiting", a small pattern pair can't be used as a dress because it doesn't care where and in what direction the pattern is placed. (Except for Koji Edo)

Now, as long as the patterns distributed on clothes are repetitive and directionless, such kimonos are collectively called "small patterns". It should be noted that in the production process, small patterns are both printed and painted. Although small patterns generally refer to kimonos with floral sleeves (sleeves are about 50 cm long), there are also vibrating sleeve kimonos with small patterns (sleeves are longer).

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As a formal dress, when wearing a small pattern, you must wear a layer of circles inside (the innermost circle can be worn or not).

It should be noted that when wearing a bathrobe, you can lift the robe (hem) above the ankle or even below the knee, so you can choose a shorter one. However, when wearing a formal suit, because the clothes should be close to the instep, everyone should be careful not to be too short when choosing to buy a formal suit.

The belt with small stripes uses "bag belt" and "Nagoya belt" just like formal dress, but because the belt with small stripes belongs to kimono close to casual wear, the bag belt used can be a simple bag belt, or even a narrow "small bag belt" or a half belt. But Xiao Wen doesn't need half a belt to make a bathrobe.

As for shoes, as the case may be, occasionally someone will match clogs, but generally they should wear two-toed socks or foot bags to match sandals.

"Landless" means that there is no pattern, so just like the literal meaning, "Landless Color" refers to a kimono with only a single color except black and no pattern (black is mourning). Although there is no pattern, it is allowed to weave dark lines.

If there is a family pattern on the colorless ground, it is a level of clothes with "visiting"; If there is no family pattern, it is secondary dressing, or daily dressing. If you use a black belt, it can be used as a second mourning (mourning); If paired with a nine-inch belt, it can even be used as a costume for the ceremony. Therefore, the color without land is a widely used type, which is not very selective to the TPO worn.

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The color without family lines gives people a sense of casual wear. No thread color (there is a family thread sewn at the back of the dress) can be used as a secondary dress for tea parties and congratulations. If there is no color of three lines (one in the back seam and one in the left and right shoulders), the style can almost be said to be higher than paying or visiting without family lines.

Because the tea ceremony pays attention to lead discharge and is plain and quiet, it can be said that color is the most suitable clothing for the tea ceremony. If you wear it to a funeral, watch vigils for acquaintances, funerals, etc. You usually choose a plain color with stripes. It should be noted that although the color is simple, it is not suitable if the dark lines of clothes are auspicious patterns. When attending a funeral, if the other person is far away from him, it is a light funeral according to the regulations. You can wear light colors such as gray and cool colors, and you can also use a dark gray belt. If it is a medium level, you can wear dark blue, purple and matcha color with a black belt. If the closest person dies, you can use black with a black belt. In addition, various,

It turns out that Fu's characteristic is that although the pattern has a specific position (generally from front left to back, right shoulder sleeve), there is no real feather pattern (the stitched pattern can still be continuous on both sides of the seam), no family pattern is added, and no gossip is made. But recently, due to the improvement of design and sewing technology, the patterns of clothing have become continuous, and many people have begun to join family patterns. It is usually difficult to distinguish these two kinds of kimonos now.

The style of "paying the bill" is between the small grain and the interview, that is, between the daily wear and the formal dress, which can be worn whether unmarried or married. It can be worn at friends' engagement parties, parties, visits to other people's homes and other occasions, and is also suitable for children's admission day (kindergarten). Among them, although the gorgeous styles can't reach the level of sleeves (especially colored sleeves and black sleeves), they can almost reach the same level as visiting.

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In the middle and early 20th century, due to the development of small pattern making technology, reverse design (and clothing) appeared, which made the pattern on the cloth fall in a specific position after cutting. This technology was very developed at that time. The kimono based on this technology is called "Fu".

However, although the paid patterns are quite gorgeous now, which can almost reach the level of access, it is always a paid production feature to describe the patterns in the reverse state.

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Because the paid pattern is painted on the negative object in advance, it can be sold as a finished product or as a negative object, just like a small pattern.

Compared with several kinds of kimonos that can be used as daily clothes or dresses, "visiting" is completely classified as a dress and clothing. Its characteristic is that the whole body is covered with "feather painting" patterns, that is, the patterns on kimono will not be cut off because of cloth cutting, and the whole garment will present continuous patterns until the whole garment. If you put a family pattern on the interview, then its level is the same as that of the color sleeve. However, although early tourists used to add three lines to their clothes when they first appeared, they gradually gave up. Up to now, almost no family line has been added.

Visiting can be used as a dress for more formal occasions, and there is no restriction that it can only be worn by unmarried or married women. In addition, in social occasions (banquets, home visits), it is also a more formal dress. Mostly used to attend wedding banquets (non-relatives), tea parties and parties.

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The history of this visit is surprisingly short. It is a kimono invented in Meiji period to match foreign social dresses.

This kind of kimono first cuts the cloth according to the kimono's proportional size, then carries out false sewing (simply splicing the cloth pieces with thread) to get the basic shape, then draws a pattern on the cloth that can be connected just in this basic molding state, and then carries out dyeing, embroidery and other processes. There are patterns on the top and bottom of the belt, and both sides of the seam can be continuous, which is the biggest difference between it and paying. (However, as mentioned in the previous materials, in recent years, due to the improvement of design and sewing technology, paying is more and more like a visit. )

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Generally, young girls will choose bright and colorful feather patterns to cover the whole kimono, while older women will choose to visit only the left front coat and right shoulder sleeve with neat and refreshing patterns.

In terms of belt collocation, if it is a style that emphasizes charm and is not too gorgeous and solemn, you can choose a woven Nagoya belt and a unique and refreshing bag belt. If it is a gorgeous visit, you can choose a luxury bag belt with classical patterns and gold and silver foil embroidery.

In addition, in order to revive the post-war kimono sales, a? This visit, the cloth for this visit is different from the ordinary cloth for this visit. ? After all, it's casual material, so it's more expensive? Visiting relatives cannot be used for weddings or official celebrations.

Sleeve kimono refers to kimono with patterns only on the lower body, including black sleeves (with black as the background color) and colored sleeves (with other colors except black as the background color). It is the highest-level dress for married women in ordinary kimono (public/noble kimono refers to twelve categories), which can be equivalent to western-style evening dress. Among them, the level of black sleeves is generally higher than that of color sleeves.

After marriage, it is suitable for women to wear black sleeves when attending the weddings of relatives and friends, and when they appear as high-ranking figures on a certain occasion. Because black sleeves are the most advanced dresses, they are generally decorated with five family lines (back seam, left and right back shoulders, left and right front shoulders). Wearing colored sleeves is generally more casual than wearing black sleeves, such as engagement party or wine, and most of the corresponding colored sleeves will only be decorated with three stripes.

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At first, in the Edo era, there was a habit that women would sew the vibrating sleeves and short sleeves they wore when they were young after marriage. The kimono modified in this way-regardless of its pattern distribution-is called "sleeve-leaving". Gradually, the meaning of the word sleeve evolved into "the dress of married women".

What we are talking about now is actually a kind of kimono called "Edo suit", which was popular among artists engaged in Edo activities during the period of the Cultural Revolution, and only the lower body was patterned. Because it was popular to make "clean" styles with the same color and material outside at that time, the gossip part not only used the same cloth as the outer layer of kimono, but also drew the same pattern on embroidery even if it was invisible. (that is, the part now called "wings")

In addition, in the palace, black sleeves are not worn because it is forbidden to wear black. When you need to wear sleeves, you will wear colorful sleeves. Curtains, belts, small objects and so on are all white.

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Black sleeves worn at weddings are generally black sleeves without dark lines and decorated with five elements. Sleeves of other colors than black depend on their purpose of use. There are not only five, but also three, even those without stripes. Color sleeve cloth can also be other fabrics with dark lines. Although sleeves are dresses for married women, unmarried women began to regard sleeves as dresses more this year. At first, it was because older unmarried women were embarrassed to wear vibrating sleeves in public, and felt that wearing sleeves was more in line with their age, which gradually spread this habit.

When attending a sister wedding, considering the bride's mood, it is generally necessary to choose a little older black to wear; When the mother of the groom attends his daughter-in-law's wedding, she should choose black holiday with many auspicious patterns; To attend a friend's wedding, you can wear a black dress that suits your age. If you wear color, because there are more opportunities to wear it after marriage, it is best to choose some styles with classical patterns and elegant styles.

Suitable for sleeves, basically some bright gold and silver belts. Black sleeves, clay gold foil wrapping tape, gold cloth wrapping tape and Tang woven bag tape are the most suitable linings, and colored sleeves can be wrapped with fine gold and silver foil patterns. The knot suitable for saving sleeves is a double drum. White is generally used for semi-lapel and strap, and white striped strap is the most suitable. When wearing sleeves, you must not forget the fan, preferably a fan with black bone and gold/silver surface.

Now, "vibrating sleeves" is the most advanced dress for unmarried women.

The kimonos we introduced earlier are classified according to the patterns and colors on them. However, the "vibrating sleeves" we are talking about this time are different. They are classified according to the length of sleeves. The name "vibrating sleeves" comes from the fact that sleeves are very long, and some can even be as long as 3 feet (about 1 14cm). According to the length of the sleeve, the vibration sleeve can be divided into large vibration sleeve (local vibration sleeve), medium vibration sleeve and small vibration sleeve. The longer the sleeves, the more gorgeous and formal they are.

However, even in Japan, there seems to be no conclusion about which length is the big vibration sleeve and which length is the middle vibration sleeve and the small vibration sleeve. It is said that the length of the large vibration sleeve is about 1 14, the length of the middle vibration sleeve is about 100, and the small vibration sleeve is about 85. It is also said that the big vibrating sleeve can only be used as a wedding kimono when it is dragged to the ground, while the medium vibrating sleeve is now commonly used as an adult style; It is also said that the length of the large vibration sleeve is to the ankle, the middle vibration sleeve is from the knee to the calf, that is, 2 feet 3 inches to 2 feet 8 inches (87 ~ 106 cm), and the small vibration sleeve is 2 feet, that is, 76cm. However, the consensus is that the difference between modern large-scale vibration sleeve and medium-sized vibration sleeve has been blurred, and they are collectively called vibration sleeve.

The reason for this ambiguity is that the height of girls has increased. For example, the vibrating sleeve can hang down to the middle of the calf, but according to the height of the girl now, the length of the vibrating sleeve can be done, so it becomes difficult to distinguish the two.

Vibrating sleeve is widely used. Unmarried girls can use it in grand ceremonies, such as New Year greetings, adult ceremonies, graduation and enrollment, and the most luxurious use moment of vibrating sleeves is the wedding ~

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At the earliest time, vibrating sleeves were a kind of small sleeve kimono with wide sleeves, and the back of sleeves were all designed for children under 7 years old (16, with a higher body temperature than adults). That is to say, only vibrating sleeves had "eight vibrations" at that time. At that time, the kimono worn by married women did not "shake". It can be seen that vibrating sleeves are clothes that young people wear for a long time. At that time, the big sleeves of vibrating sleeves were not used for decoration, and this kind of long-sleeved clothes could be worn by both boys and girls.

It was the edo period that really evolved the modern vibrating sleeves. Before the Edo era, the sleeves of young women's formal dresses and kimonos had been gradually lengthened. In Lu Yuan period (1688-1703), the sleeve length was about 55 to 95cm, and in Edo period (before 1867), the sleeve length was 95 to 122cm. After the Meiji era, this kimono established its position as a gorgeous dress for unmarried women. But because such long sleeves will hinder people's movements after all, young girls generally don't wear such long-sleeved clothes except as dresses.

There is a small reason why vibrating sleeves are popular among young women. In the early edo period, dancers often waved their sleeves to show their love and rolled up their sleeves to show their sadness. This performance was imitated by unmarried women, which made the long-sleeved kimono popular. In addition, it is said that waving sleeves also means eliminating disasters and cleaning the body, so wearing vibrating sleeves on the day of marriage and adulthood also means cleaning the body and mind and entering another door of life.

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Nowadays, only girls and unmarried women wear vibrating sleeves, but there are exceptions, that is, boys' 753 celebration dresses are also made into vibrating sleeves.

Small vibrating sleeves are generally worn with sleeves and are often used for graduation and admission.

Vibrating sleeves are generally used for adults and New Year's visits.

Large vibrating sleeves are generally used for weddings.

What is the difference between a large vibration sleeve (local vibration sleeve) and a medium vibration sleeve?

At present, because the sleeves of vibrating sleeves (kimonos with vibrating sleeves used by adults) are as long as vibrating sleeves, many people can't tell the difference between them. In fact, no matter how long the sleeve is, it is still a vibrating sleeve.

This is because, in addition to the sleeve length of at least 3 feet (1 14cm), there are five stripes on the clothes, and there are cotton strips at the cuffs and hem.

PS: The sleeve-retaining introduction says "eight stitches after marriage", but the sleeve-shaking side also says "eight stitches without shaking the sleeve" ... So ... is it completely closed after marriage? I really don't understand.