How is perfume made?

Perfume making and related common sense

Extraction method of essence

Distillation: plant raw materials are put into boiling water, and the fragrant essential oil escapes with steam. When steam condenses into water, oil floats on the water surface and can be collected. This process may have to be repeated several times to get the highest purity sesame oil possible. In the late19th century, the application of distillation and extraction technology greatly improved this process. In this way, steam condenses in cold water through a thin tube.

Extraction: The perfume extracted with volatile solvent is put in a perforated metal plate and then put into an extractor. The volatile solvent (such as ether) passes through the extractor and then enters the distillation pot, where it becomes a semi-solidified substance, which is called "concrete". Jelly includes essential oil and a waxy substance called rose wax. Another technique that uses alcohol can separate the two. The pure and high-concentration essential oil made in this way is called absolute. This essence is very expensive. Take tuberose essence as an example, it is now more expensive than the same weight of gold.

Oil absorption: this is a method used by ancient Egyptians and has been used until the 20 th century. The method is to put the flower head in oil or fat to absorb its fragrance. The perfumer took advantage of the characteristics of flowers here, that is, some flowers can continue to secrete oil even if they are picked. In France, since the17th century, Jasmine has been particularly fond of picking flowers. Spread flowers with glass coated with special oil, and then extract essential oil with alcohol. This method requires a lot of labor, and it is no longer used.

Squeezing method: This method is usually used to extract sesame oil from citrus peel. The peel is placed in the middle of the drum and sesame oil is separated by centrifugal force. In other words, it is the power of rotation that throws the oil out.

In the perfume industry, a newly developed method is also used to obtain fragrance. This is a system called "vacuum refining technology" or "living flower technology". Theoretically, it can preserve the smell of any substance, such as the smell of flowers or the smell of old boots (if you really want to).

When this method is implemented, an aromatic substance, such as flowers, is first put into a special container, and then the container is evacuated. After a while, the fragrance of flowers emanated from the container. After about an hour and a half, the smell is pumped into the gas discriminator, which will accurately analyze and measure the basic components of the escaped substances.

In larger-scale production, the analysis results can be simulated in a similar proportion, and the fragrance can be reproduced in large quantities.

This is a new technology, which is still very expensive and complicated, but it provides a brand-new method for perfume manufacturers to make perfume. Now some perfumes have been made in this way.

Common sense of fragrance modulation

Flavor blending needs to go through three stages: formula test, sample test, large sample blending and seasoning test.

Formation process: sample fitting-> Adding perfuming medium according to the method->; Enlarge the sample.

Formation stage: prescription test-> Sample test->; Sample preparation and perfuming experiment.

Objective: Head fragrance, body fragrance and bottom fragrance->; Aroma through the role of fixative->; According to industrial production, the actual effect of essence was tested to meet people's use requirements. The head fragrance, body fragrance and base fragrance should be coherent, and the fragrance should be harmonious, elegant and dispersed. Through the action of fixative, the original aroma types and characteristics can be maintained for a long time.

manufacturing process

Most professional perfumers have studied the art of perfume making in professional colleges. For example, the famous Givaudan-Roure perfume school in Glass, France. There are a series of courses, including field experiments and internships in enterprises for a period of time, which takes 6 years.

Making new perfume is the highest art of perfumers, but they have more practical responsibilities. For example, after a certain raw material is used up, it is re-blended with substitutes to maintain the long-term sales potential of perfume. The perfumer must also mix the new ingredients with the original ingredients to avoid being threatened by the reduction of plant production and the lack of raw materials.

The whole perfume industry is cautious about fragrant oil with strong smell. The ingredients of perfume must meet the international standards of environmental protection and health. Many raw materials, including some compounds, can only be used under chemical restrictions. Some people have to use other substitutes because there are signs of toxicity in those raw materials. Many perfumers are engaged in this kind of work, or give professional advice to perfumers in soaps, baths and air fresheners. These tasks are often more difficult than preparing new perfumes such as "Diorissimos" and "L'air du'Temps".

In the international market, launching a new perfume is a difficult business activity, which generally requires careful market research and strong financial support. Therefore, perfumers must consider the types and prices of perfumes at the beginning of developing new perfumes. Of course, it is also possible that the type and price of perfume have been decided before the perfumer gets involved in this matter. The sales price, as well as advertising and marketing expenses, must be determined. The image representing the perfume type must be unanimously recognized, and the most important thing is to design a suitable bottle. Surprisingly, the activation of the whole plan often starts with the name of perfume.

At present, almost all perfumers work for one or two large perfume manufacturers, except those companies that have their own manufacturing and sales networks, such as Nicolai and Isabell. Only a few super perfume companies, such as Guerlain, Chanel and Albert Batteux, have their own perfumers, and they generally do not change their affiliation. Of course, there are exceptions, such as Guy Torbert and GucciNo. 1, who modulated Mrs. Rocca.

With the requirements of perfume becoming more and more clear, sometimes more than one manufacturer starts processing, such as providing samples, discussing the change plan, and finally finalizing and selecting a perfumer to be responsible for the preparation work, and so on.

The "nose" of the perfumer: Because the perfume industry needs a keen sense of smell, people sometimes call the perfumer the "nose". The perfumer put his nose into a state, and the table in front of him was full of bottles filled with essential oils and chemical compounds. He wants to choose raw materials that can be used to make new perfume. It may take years to experience hundreds of smells and get a formula. One kind of fragrance may affect another, how to make one kind of fragrance obvious, or how to ensure that one kind of raw material will not overwhelm the other. The final product may imply the perfumer's own consistent style-for example, he likes to use a certain ingredient or prefers the proportion of a certain formula, so there are often signs. But the overriding standard is to meet the requirements put forward by customers, and these requirements are sometimes quite difficult to meet. There are many stories about this. For example, an eccentric American millionaire asked Ernest Dart Love to make a perfume, which reminds people of bathing in champagne and makes Ernest laugh and cry. Now this perfume is still on sale in the market, and it has also come in handy in some religious ceremonies.

When Jacque Cavallier of Firmenich received an order for the first perfume in Issey Miyake, the customer asked that the perfume should be as fresh as fresh water. Although the perfumer is not confident enough to meet this requirement, "Water of Life" has indeed become the best-selling perfume in the future.

Perfume can't be made quickly. Just smell it a few times and your nose will be dull. Therefore, it may take hours or even days to test different perfumes. To test the ability of fragrance retention, it is necessary to use scientific analysis methods. Sometimes, customers will organize their own test teams to review or do further tests. From this point of view, the process of a perfume from launch to market may last for several years, not overnight. However, there are few examples of procrastination like Cody's L'aimant perfume. It took five years to perfect that perfume. But more importantly, it took Guerlain seven years to prepare for the launch of Chant d'Aromes.

Composition of perfume: Professional perfumers will try their best to mix the mixture of perfume. Most perfumes contain 50 ~ 100 ingredients, some of which are more, and 200 kinds are also common. Lenos Giorgio Beverly Hills' "Wing" brand perfume claims to have 62 1 component. There are nearly 700 kinds of another "red".

Among these components, the most important part is the chemical component. Some may come from plants, and more from more incredible materials such as tar and vaseline. The dosage of each ingredient must be accurately controlled. In the highly developed modern science and technology, new technologies such as computers are used to accurately control and store perfume raw materials. These technologies provide a good preparation for large-scale industrial production.

Manufacturing steps of perfume: The first step in manufacturing perfume is to prepare many kinds of essential oils, some of which can be extracted in a long time and some of which can be completed in a short time. For example, the flowers of sesame oil trees growing in Southeast Asia must be picked within a certain period of time and extracted immediately. Therefore, the extraction equipment is located around the sesame oil tree, and the distilled products are immediately stored in vats. The perfumer gets the extract on the spot or buys the raw materials from local wholesalers and other second-hand companies.

Next, according to the formula provided by those "noses", all the ingredients used are mixed together, which takes several weeks. Then these mixtures are diluted with alcohol to reach the pre-designed concentration. Finally, it is stored in a copper container to make its fragrance more mellow. Then there is the final step of bottling and waiting for the appearance.

The perfume industry is now a large-scale production industry. Spices are not only used in perfumes, but also in household products including bath products, and are also widely used in seasonings. Scented dishes will obviously stimulate appetite, and the raw materials of flavoring agents may be the raw materials used in perfume.

There are many big companies with branches in many countries in the world. They sell perfumes and edible spices, and together with smaller companies, they provide employment opportunities for most perfumers. But there are still some perfumers who are outside the mainstream perfume industry. They use a small number of workers to make perfume in the traditional way and sell it in their own shops. Products also include other kinds of things. You can get quite precious products from them: perfumes made by Long Xianxiang and Daphne; Perfume specially prepared for the tastes of a few people and some perfumes with special effects; And perfume specially designed for connoisseurs. For example, john ashbery of the Perfume Industry Association once customized a "romantic perfume" for British writer Barbara Cartland. Most of these perfumes rely on natural materials. Judging from the environment and atmosphere of the store, it is very close to the style of the first perfume launched by Guerlain in the early days, which was launched for a party. In this way, the modulation of perfume has been sublimated to an artistic realm.

Raw materials of perfume

There are many raw materials for preparing perfume. According to the traditional classification, they are generally divided into artificial and natural. In fact, this division is not accurate. One of the most common disputes related to perfume raw materials is the dispute between natural and artificial raw materials. Whether a raw material is natural or artificial does not determine whether it is safe, and there are many other factors. Because the use history of natural raw materials is thousands of years, and the use of artificial raw materials is less than 100 years, natural raw materials will naturally get higher recognition. However, natural raw materials may not achieve the effect of artificial raw materials, because there is separation, other substances in natural raw materials also play a role, affecting the role of the main substance.

☆ Natural raw materials ☆

The so-called "natural raw materials" are substances obtained from biological or animal raw materials by physical separation methods such as distillation and extraction. The final raw material is basically the same as the chemical composition of the raw material, but exists in a concentrated form. These refined flavors usually contain hundreds of different chemical elements. Even the substance obtained in this way is not exactly the same as the original substance.

In ancient civilization, soaked spices made the body smell; In the Middle Ages, Arab scientists invented distillation technology; By the19th century, concentrated ethanol could be used to make tinctures; At the beginning of the 20th century, solvent extraction technology has been put into use. Today's technology can extract or separate a single chemical from natural raw materials. However, although this substance is dominant, it will still contain other substances in the raw materials. So generally speaking, the purer the extracted raw materials, the more expensive the price. Because other sundries will change the quality of perfume.

In the perfume industry, the word "natural" refers to the source of raw materials and physical extraction methods, rather than how similar a substance is to its source.

☆ Artificial flavors ☆

Artificial spices are substances obtained through chemical reactions, and the raw materials are usually petroleum or turpentine. Some artificial chemicals can be separated from nature, or can only be produced by artificial synthesis.

Since the technology of obtaining artificial spices through chemical reaction came into being, a large number of artificial spices have been born, and their purity is different. As we all know, improving purity means increasing cost. Impure impurities will affect the quality of essence, and so will the residues in chemical reactions, because some reactions are strong and will affect the safety of substances. Most of the chemical components in modern perfume are synthetic. Artificial spices are used more and more widely. There is no doubt that synthetic spices are more economical than natural spices.

☆ Raw materials between natural and artificial spices ☆

The difference between natural perfume and artificial perfume is not absolute. Some chemicals can be synthesized artificially or extracted naturally. Although the chemical structure of the basic substances is the same, other by-products make the fragrance quality of natural and artificial spices different.

Natural spices after chemical treatment can be classified as natural; But it's not entirely from nature. The degree of standardization of products, even the price of raw materials, often becomes the standard to distinguish whether raw materials are natural or not. In this case, the problem arises: that is, many raw materials are pretending to be natural, but they are not. The deeper problem is that it is difficult to distinguish whether a raw material is artificial or natural.

Since the appearance of gas chromatography technology, it is no longer a problem to distinguish whether a substance is natural or artificial. Some companies use high technology to confirm whether a raw material is chemical or biological. This test seems a little overqualified for perfume raw materials, but the market value of natural and artificial raw materials must be verified. For example, a kilogram of synthetic acetaldehyde may sell for $47; It costs about $500 to buy the same weight of natural acetaldehyde.

Main spice plants and sesame oil varieties

Balsam balsam is the resin of trees and shrubs, which can emit fragrance, also called balsam. In modern perfume industry, Peru balsam, Tolu balsam gum, bitter balsam and lingering fragrance are commonly used. Their shapes are yellow to light brown slightly viscous liquids or crystals, and their fragrance is a bit like vanilla essence.

Bergamot, produced in Italy, is an orange sesame oil extracted from the peel of bergamot tree. It has a pleasant, cool and fragrant aroma, and Qing Xiang has a sweet fruity aroma, which is refreshing. 33% of women's perfumes use this raw material.

Bitter orange, a sesame oil, is obtained by squeezing the peel. Bitter citrus reticulata also complained about citrus reticulata. Neroli oil, neroli oil and fruit bud oil can be extracted from this citrus. Extracted from the flowers of bitter citrus trees by distillation, its fragrance is a mixture of spicy and sweet fruit fragrance. About 12% of modern perfumes use it.

Frankincense is a gum extracted from a small tree growing in southern Arabia and Somalia. It has been a very important spice since ancient times and has been used ever since. It appears in about 13% of modern perfumes.

Galbanum, a colloidal perfume, is extracted from fennel plants growing in Iran. Its smell is warm, fatty and spicy, mixed with the smell of green leaves and musk.

Jasmine is an important plant in perfume industry, second only to rose. The fragrance is delicate and transparent, and there is a fresh feeling. It is fresh and fragrant, and 80% of modern perfumes use it. There are many varieties. Spanish jasmine, also called Royal Jasmine, is the most commonly used variety in Europe since16th century. An acre (about 0.4 hectares) of jasmine can produce 500 pounds (about 0.45 kilograms) of jasmine, but the absolute yield is very low (about 0. 1%), because jasmine must be picked when it is still covered with morning dew, and if it is exposed to the sun, it will lose some fragrance, so jasmine is also one of the most expensive perfume raw materials.

Opium tincture, also known as Helianthin, comes from the leaves of a plant of Lithocarpus in the Middle East. It is an important and powerful ointment in perfume industry. After dilution, it is very similar to Long Xianxiang, and its fragrance is lasting and precious. It can account for 33% in modern perfume.

Lavender is one of the most common spices. Its flowers provide a fresh green and fresh fragrance. One hectare of lavender can produce about 15 pound of sesame oil.

Lemon oil Lemon oil is not only used for perfume, but also for seasoning. It has a strong aroma of fresh lemon peel, which is elegant but not long. About 1000 lemons can squeeze out 1 pound lemon oil. Oil is squeezed from the peel or distilled by steam. It is used in many high-quality perfumes, mostly to make the top notes of perfumes fresher.

The early lily fragrance of lily of the valley can only be obtained by mixing nectar oil, but now it can only be obtained by purification, and it cannot be made into essential oil. Therefore, people obtained the most elegant lily fragrance in history through chemical synthesis, and this compound is called Lily of the Valley. Because of its elegant lily fragrance, it has become a substitute for valley lily. About 14% of modern high-quality perfumes use it more or less.

Myrrh, a gelatinous substance collected from myrrh trees, is produced in Arabia, Somalia and Ethiopia. Its important position is not only reflected in perfume for a long time, but also has medicinal and antiseptic effects. Its fragrance is similar to that of impatiens, and it lasts for a long time. Myrrh oil is light brown or light green liquid, and the proportion used in modern perfume is about 7%.

Neroli oil is extracted from the flowers of bitter citrus trees. The name Nero comes from an Italian prince in16th century. See bitter orange.

Oak moss is taken from oak, spruce and other trees growing in mountainous areas of Europe and North Africa. Long-term storage will increase its fragrance, with a mixed smell of earth, wood and musk, and it has good durability. It accounts for about one third of today's spices. The same type of moss.

Iris oil (Orris) is a light yellow to brownish yellow solid at room temperature, with a mild and lasting fragrance. It is the best of honey and sweet fragrance, emitting a violet-like fragrance, which is extracted from iris root stored for two years. It is unique in that it can make other fragrances particularly enhanced. It's in many first-class perfumes.

Pogostemon cablin, a mint-flavored perfume from the Far East, is one of the strongest plant perfumes, and is usually used in oriental perfumes. Its fragrance is strong and lasting, and it is a good fixative. Raw materials should be dried and fermented before distillation. Because the fragrance similar to camphor is very strong, the dosage of spices should be strictly controlled every time. The unique spices and rosin in sesame oil will become more obvious with the passage of time, which is the best persistent among the known plant spices. It first attracted the attention of Europeans in the19th century, when shawls brought by Indian businessmen exuded this fragrance and soon became a fashionable fragrance. Now one-third of high-end perfumes will use it.

Rose is a precious perfume, which belongs to the most important plant in the perfume industry. It was called "the queen of flowers" by the Greek poetess Sappho. There are many varieties. The earliest variety is foreign rose, or painter rose, commonly known as May rose. It was originally a special rose for French perfume. Kazanlak in Bulgaria produces a large number of Damascus roses. Other varieties are also cultivated in Egypt, Morocco and other places. Now it's clear that there are 17 different rose scents. Usually it always contains the sweet rhyme and fragrance of honey, which is the crown of flower oil. Extracting 1 lb rose oil or rose essence requires 1000 lb rose, and the proportion of pure essence is even less, only 0.03%. At least 75% of high-quality perfumes can use rose oil.

Sandalwood sandalwood oil is mainly extracted from sawdust and branches of sandalwood produced in India and Indonesia. It is a yellow, slightly viscous liquid with oriental aroma. Sandalwood oil is best produced in Mysore and also in Australia. This tree is parasitic, and its roots are connected with other trees. Sandalwood oil is the most valuable and precious raw material for making perfume, with lasting fragrance. About half of high-quality perfumes will use this raw material as the basic fragrance.

Tonka is extracted from the bitter bark of Angola bean and Paraguay bean and produced in South America. When the bark and beans are covered with coumarin crystals, they can be treated with rum, which smells like freshly cut grass. 10% high-quality perfume uses pure essence made of Lingling beans.

Tree moss In America, tree moss and oak moss are the same thing. In the European perfume industry, moss refers to the moss shell of spruce, and the fragrance of the extract is very similar to some tar. Commonly used in aromatic perfumes, it has a good fragrance fixing effect.

Tuberose, commonly known as cordate telosma, is described as the fragrance of fragrant flowers in the garden at night. Sesame oil extracted from this flower can be found in 20% high-quality perfumes, especially quiet perfumes. The output of pure essence is very low. This flower can only produce 7 ounces (about 28.35 grams) of essence per 2600 pounds, so it is more expensive than the same weight of gold.

Vanilla oil is extracted from pods on vanilla vines. Originated in tropical areas of Mexico and America, fermented before extraction. It smells sweet and spicy. Since it was used as "L'AIMANT" by Huang Fengying, it has become more and more popular in the perfume industry. At present, about a quarter of perfumes use it.

Vetiveria zizanioides is a sesame oil, which is extracted from the rhizome of Khuskhus, a tropical herb in Asia. It is a brown-to-reddish-brown viscous liquid with earthy fragrance and faint sweetness of iris and violet. The fragrance is mild and lasting, which can not only be used as a fixative, but also give woody plants a dry and sweet taste. 36% of high-grade perfumes contain vetiver oil.

There are two kinds of violets used in violet perfume: Victoria violet and Parma violet. The former is of better quality and the latter is easier to grow. Sesame oil is extracted from petals and leaves, but because of the high cost, violet fragrance is mostly chemically synthesized now.

Ylang-Ylang uses 40% sesame oil in high quality perfume. Especially suitable for jasmine, white orchid, tuberose, lily of the valley, violet and other floral essences, used to coordinate the overall fragrance in perfume essences. This sesame oil extracted from leaves comes from Southeast Asia, and its aroma is similar to that of Jasmine grandiflora, but it is thicker and longer. Two weeks after flowering, the jasmine-like fragrance diffuses, so the fragrance should be collected immediately, so it is often distilled on the spot. A tree blooms about 22 Jin of flowers a year, while two Jin of sesame oil consumes almost 900 Jin of flowers.

Talk about perfume details

The word perfume comes from the Latin word "per fumum", which means "penetrating smoke". The perfume mentioned in the Old Testament usually refers to the formation of a spice, which is consistent with the Latin definition.

/kloc-the first batch of modern perfumes was born in the 0/4th century. It is a mixture of essence and alcohol, and was developed at the request of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary.

From15th century to the end of19th century, Italians widely used perfume. /kloc-In the 6th century, there was a strong smell of animal fat, which soon spread to France, Britain and other European countries.

1709, Italian Johann Maria Farina made a magical liquid with a strange smell in Cologne, Germany, which was called "Cologne". When Catherine de medici married Henry II of France, she came to France with her perfumer and opened her first perfume shop. Louis XIV was addicted to perfume and became "the emperor who loved perfume". In the period of Louis XV, Madame Pompadou and Madame du Barry loved perfume as much as clothes, so everyone's ornaments and costumes, and even the whole court, were full of fragrance, which was called "the palace of perfume" and the whole Paris became "the perfume capital". Another perfume fan is Napoleon. During the election campaign, he used 65,438+02 kilograms of perfume ("fagonard") every day. When he was exiled to the island, he made mint perfume, called eau de toilette, which became a model of perfume in the future. Queen Josephine has a special liking for musk, so that she left the good name of "Musk Queen".

In the south of France in the18th century, flower planting became an important industry, and it continues to this day.

/kloc-Since the second half of the 9th century, volatile solvents have replaced the early distillation method, especially the birth of French synthetic perfume. Perfume is no longer limited to a single natural fragrance, and the perfume family has also grown rapidly, laying the foundation for modern perfume industry.

At the beginning of the 20th century, after the First World War, people were liberated from the Victorian era, and perfume just reflected the brand-new atmosphere of freedom at that time. Because of the war, the female population is nearly 2 million more than the male population. In the 1920s, women's clothing, perfume and image all changed from classical to modern. All this is attributed to the French fashion master Chanel, who created the world's first perfume containing acetaldehyde-chanel no.5. This classic perfume has a refreshing and elegant fragrance, which embodies the self-reliance and rational spirit of women in the new era and makes women wearing professional clothes solemn and charming. Another perfume, ar Peng, added acetaldehyde and collected more than 60 kinds of flowers, fruits and woody plants, with elegant, fresh and refined fragrance. Guerlain, a famous French cosmetics company, launched the first oriental perfume, which showed unrestrained passion and mature charm. Since then, perfumes with oriental spices and exotic scents of oriental plants have been deeply loved by women.

World War II in the 1940s obviously affected the production of perfume. French India, East India and perfume suppliers stopped production because of the war, which stimulated businessmen to make their own perfumes. After the war, the perfume industry developed rapidly, and flowers gave deep comfort to people who suffered from the war. Nina Ricci's perfume "Fly with me" seems to give people a bunch of flowers picked from the morning dew. 1947, the French master Dior launched his masterpiece "New Look" and his perfume "Miss Dior". The dress known as the "new look" is as charming as a flower, and the fragrance of "Miss Dior" is gentle and elegant, which really makes women reappear after the war.

In 1950s, Estee Lauder combined with the culture at that time, which brought great influence to perfume. 1952, Estee Lauder Company launched Youth Dew, which is a perfume with floral and fruity fragrance and full of youthful flavor, making people feel relaxed and casual, thus breaking the convention of using perfume only on grand occasions.

In the 1960 s, young people rebelled and abandoned tradition, which was called fashion. Perfume also began to pursue avant-garde style, and colorful schools appeared.

In 1970s, with the upsurge of feminist movement, women began to take off their skirts, put on pants and spray men's eau de toilette. Sauvage, which is rich in cool citrus flavor, is most favored by fashionable women. Dior's Diorelle and Chanel's Cristalle came out one after another, which brought new feelings to women. Chloe, Oscar and Neuer, who show women's elegant style, are also very popular. In this era, the masterpiece of perfume is Yves Saint Laurent's opium, which exudes attractive oriental fragrance and its name is shocking. The white linen introduced by Estee Lauder 1978 has added jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, citrus and other spices to become a noble and hearty perfume, reminding people that perfume can also be used for daily use, not for special occasions.

80' s is an era of tradition returning and nostalgia, and also an era of perfume innovation. The wisdom, wealth and talent of yuppies make perfume a symbol of showing off their status. People admire the luxurious style of perfume. Poisonous perfume is filled with rich fragrance, attracting countless successful women. Women's perfume is as fragrant as flowers, while men's perfume is no longer limited to fresh eau de toilette. The Polo by the famous American clothing teacher Rauph Lauren, from the packaging to the masculine fragrance, makes people feel strong and energetic. At this time, perfumes are often of two fragrance brands, one for men and the other for women. The design of perfume in 1980s seems to be exploring the philosophy of life. Calvin Klein, a famous American clothing teacher, introduced the perfume trilogy: obsession, eternity and escape, as if he were stating his views on life with fragrance, from addiction to complete consciousness. 1985 Estee Lauder introduces beauty, and points out that the choice of perfume is very personal. The function of wearing perfume is to share your personal feelings and charm with people around you. Three years later, Estee Lauder once again launched a bosom friend, and the rich fragrance made it impossible to ignore the existence of the perfumer.

Regarding the perfume trend in the 1990s, Jacques Cavallier, a famous French perfumer, said: "In the 1980s, there was a world of strong perfume, but now, women are tired of pungent fragrance because they don't think it is necessary to attract others' attention.