Differences and changes of modern clothing in the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China

In the Qing dynasty, under the norm of "men obey women and not women", the changes of Han women's clothing were less than those of men. When the concubines and concubines get married, they still inherit the custom, and take rockhopper and imperial robe as their dresses. Ordinary women wear cloaks and skirts. Cloak is a woman's coat in Qing dynasty, similar to a man's jacket. It is made up of double-breasted sleeves and below the knee. On the cloak, there is a low collar dotted with various jewels. Inside the cloak, there are big skirts, big coats and small coats. Small coats are women's underwear, and the colors are mostly red, pink and pink. Women's dresses are mostly skirts, and red is the most expensive color. The style of the skirt still retains the customs of the early Ming Dynasty, including phoenix tail skirt and moon skirt. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, pants were still very popular among ordinary women.

Before Jiaqing and Daoguang in Qing Dynasty, women's wear of Han nationality still followed the clothing shape of Ming Dynasty, mainly skirt. During the Qianlong period, people mainly wore coats and shirts with lace, which were relatively wide in style, generally below the knee. After Jia Dao, the clothes with lace tended to be narrow, and the length was obviously shortened. Some add a longer vest with lace at the edge. In addition to wearing a skirt, there are pants in the lower body. The style of trousers has also changed. At first, it was a big trouser leg, and then it was gradually changed into a small trouser leg with lace at the mouth. Since the Guangxu period, due to the popularity of pants, it is gradually rare for women to wear skirts.

Fu Yi is the dress of women in Qing Dynasty, and the style of Fu Yi is similar to that of shirts. The shirt is a long skirt with round neck, right slit, twisted lapel, straight body, flat sleeves and no slit. Clothes are slit from left to right to armpits, and there must be clouds on the slit, so that the patterns of clothes are more gorgeous and the edges are more exquisite. There are many kinds of patterns, each with its own meaning. During the reign of Xianfeng and Tongzhi, there were more and more ways for aristocratic women in Beijing to roll lace on their clothes, which was called "Eighteen Embedding". This decorative fashion was popular until the Republic of China.

Ma Jia of Manchu women in Qing Dynasty, or "Ma Jia", "Ma Jia" or "Half Arm". In the Qing Dynasty, Manchu women often wore a vest outside their cheongsam, which was their favorite dress. Like men's vests, this kind of vest also has large lapels, straight lapels, double lapels, pipa lapels and other shapes, reaching to the waist and decorated with lace.

Although there are regulations on women's dress in Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, they are not strict. Most women don't wear horns and cool hats. Most of them tie their foreheads with silks and satins and wear hoods in winter. At the beginning of the uprising, women wore men's clothes, and some wore miao clothing. After Tianjing, the capital, due to the improvement of living conditions, most women do not wear men's clothes, and the patterns used vary according to their status. Ordinary women wear robes made of various silks and satins. The style is mainly round neck, the neckline is small, the waist is more fit, the hem is loose, and the dress is knee-length and left collar. In order to facilitate activities, slits are often arranged at the bottom, either at the sides or in the middle.

Taiping Heavenly Kingdom is the only peasant regime in China with a clothing system. In clothing, it not only inherits the traditional system, but also innovates, forming a unique dressing system. The crown hats of generals in Taiping Heavenly Kingdom include horn hats, wind hats, cool hats and hats. Horn hat with dragon and phoenix patterns on it. There are two kinds of gowns: gowns and mandarin jackets, with round neck and wide sleeves, embroidered with patterns to distinguish positions. There are two kinds of mandarin jackets: red and yellow, and positions are distinguished by color.

Soldiers of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom in the Qing Dynasty were only allowed to wear scarves at ordinary times, not crowns, and only helmets when fighting. This kind of helmet is mostly made of bamboo, bamboo, willow and rattan, which has certain defensive performance and is called "Nothing". Hat or "victory helmet". Generally, there are all kinds of flowers and colorful clouds painted on it, and the word "Taiping Heavenly Kingdom" is written in the middle. Soldiers' ordinary dress requirements are not very strict, and they usually wear variegated tops. In case of marching and fighting, get dressed. Old soldiers can wear clothes without size, and even if they have no official position, they are allowed to wear short coats. In addition, there is a "waist tag" system. All soldiers in the kingdom of heaven wear a rectangular wooden sign on their belts, which bears the serial number of the army and the name of the officer, and is stamped with the seal of fire as a voucher for entering and leaving the barracks.

After the Revolution of 1911, women's wear was the most popular in this period. There are shirts, jackets and vests in various styles, including double lapels, pipa lapels, straight lapels and oblique lapels. Collars, sleeves, lapels and pendulums are inlaid with piping lace or embroidery patterns, and the clothes are square and round with different widths.

Cheongsam, originally the robe of Manchu flag bearer, has now become the representative costume of China. From the late Qing Dynasty to the early 1930s, the sleeves and hem of cheongsam changed in different periods: the sleeves were from wide to narrow and from long to short; The hem changes from long to short, and then from short to long, completely with the changes of the times.

Dresses were brought to China by some overseas students, literary and intellectual circles in the 1920s. In 1930s, more and more people wore dresses, and the styles of dresses were constantly enriched, which became a popular fashion in Shanghai.

/kloc-Miniskirts, miniskirts and women's fashions imported from abroad since the 1990s.

Tang suit is a kind of clothes with buttons, horseshoe sleeves and stand-up collar on the chest, which comes from Manchu costumes.

Chinese tunic suit: Also called Mao suit after 1949, it was the dress that people often wore before 1979, especially during the Cultural Revolution (the other is military uniform).

Red scarf: Most students wear this scarf.

Jiefang shoes: popular before the reform and opening up.

Suit: popular after the reform and opening up.

Farmers' uprisings in Qing Dynasty, such as An Baili, Taiping Heavenly Kingdom and Nianjun, all wore a lot of Hanfu. Some Taiping generals refused to mix clothes with Manchu elements, preferring to wear costumes to fight.

19 10 (Xuantong two years), the high council decided to cut braids and change clothes, and people of all ethnic groups in China began to cut braids. After Yuan Shikai forced Xuantong Emperor to abdicate, the interim government issued a "braid-cutting order". The Republic of China promulgated the "Temporary Sacrificial Crown Clothing System" to restore sacrificial clothing. [75] Xia Zhenwu wears deep clothes, and Zhang Daqian travels around Europe with wide robes and sleeves. Qian wrote "Deep Clothes and Clothes" in191year. 19 12 In March, when he was a clerk in Zhejiang Education Department, he wore a dark coat and took it to work. The core figures of the League advocate learning from the West in an all-round way. At that time, China people formally changed to western-style clothes, but did not restore the traditional clothes of the Han nationality. The costumes of Han, Hui, Miao and other ethnic groups banned by the Qing government, as well as some traditional cultures related to costumes, gradually disappeared in real life or survived in a new style after integration. The Han people thought that the cheongsam and mandarin jacket that the Tatars forced them to wear were traditional Chinese costumes. A few children's clothes still keep the right collar since the Ming Dynasty.

At present, Hanfu can be divided into two types according to their uses: ceremonial Hanfu and homemade Hanfu. As the name implies, the etiquette Hanfu is used to show the public the important role of historical Hanfu in grand or festive public ceremonies, so it usually pays attention to luxuriance and massiness, while ignoring simplicity and convenience. Self-made Hanfu, also known as convenient Hanfu, aims to fully integrate the elements of Hanfu into the daily indoor life of contemporary people to replace the Tang suit and western-style pajamas widely used at home, emphasizing simplicity, convenience, comfort and simplicity. Nowadays, the bathrobe in Japanese kimono, Jinbe, and Hanbok under the coat and trousers of modern North Korea all play a great role. This is because these ethnic groups use "Tang costume" and "Hanfu" more frequently in funeral ceremonies (coronation ceremony, wedding ceremony and funeral ceremony), so the convenience functions of their own ethnic Wu costume and Hanfu are naturally reflected. In China, Hanfu movement started from ceremonial Hanfu, and now it has just begun to replace pajamas and bathrobes.

Today's cheongsam (Shanghai-style cheongsam), gown, jacket and Tang suit (new-style jacket) are all improved and developed on the basis of Manchu costumes and the integration of western-style clothing styles. Although the stand-up collar of cheongsam, double-breasted jacket and the use of buttons all appeared in Ming Dynasty costumes, they were all different, so there was no direct relationship between Ming and Qing costumes.

In recent years, some Han people have re-advocated the restoration of traditional Han costumes before the Qing Dynasty, which has been recognized by some young people and people interested in traditional culture. Advocates of Hanfu mainly advocate wearing Hanfu in traditional festivals and sacrifices, and there are different views on this emerging phenomenon in society.