Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - To write a summary of learning embroidery, a few hundred words on the purchase!
To write a summary of learning embroidery, a few hundred words on the purchase!
Second, the origin of Chinese embroidery
Embroidery originated very early. Embroidery linen embroidery text, seen in the book. Yu Shun time, there has been embroidery. Eastern Zhou has set up an official specializing in its duties, to the Han has been the court embroidery. Wu Sun Quan of the Three Kingdoms to make Mrs. Zhao embroidered mountains and rivers and terrain military charts, Tang Yongzhen yuan (805 AD) Lu Mei-niang to the Dharma Sutra seven volumes, embroidered on a foot of silk, because the embroidery is famous for the former records. Since the Han Dynasty, embroidery has gradually become a great art in the boudoir, and famous embroiderers have taken their place in the history of art.
The earliest surviving embroidery is two pieces of embroidery unearthed in a Chu tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province, during the Warring States period. View of its needlework, completely with the braid stock stitch (i.e., lock embroidery) embroidered into the silk and Luo, neat stitches, color and elegant, smooth lines, will be the pattern of the dragon swimming phoenix dance, tigers and beasts, showing a natural and lively, lively and powerful, fully demonstrating the achievements of the art of embroidery in Chu. Han Dynasty embroidery, in Dunhuang Thousand Buddha Cave, Hebei Wulu charging tomb, northern Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Turpan Astana North Tomb have been unearthed, especially in 1972 in Changsha Mawangdui unearthed a large number of varieties and complete embroidery, and more help to understand the Han Dynasty embroidery style. From these embroideries, the Han embroidery pattern theme, mostly for the wave of clouds, soaring phoenix birds, Mercedes the beasts, as well as the common Han mirror pattern of banded flowers, geometric patterns, and so on. Embroidery of the new base material, for the popular fabrics, such as weaving into the "prolonged life and greatly suitable for children and grandchildren", "long and happy bright" and other auspicious words of silk brocade silk. The technique is based on lock embroidery, filling the pattern, the composition is tight, neat stitching, extremely smooth lines.
The Eastern Jin Dynasty to the Northern Dynasties of silk fabrics, unearthed in Gansu Dunhuang and Xinjiang Hetian, Bachu, Turpan and other places, seen fragments of embroidery, regardless of whether the pattern or white, the whole are embroidered with fine locks embroidery all embroidered, become a full of embroidery features. Heirloom and unearthed Tang Dynasty embroidery, and the Tang Dynasty religious art has a close relationship, which has a lot of Tang embroidery Buddha, such as the British Museum collection of the Oriental Dunhuang Thousand Buddha Cave found in the embroidered account of the Lingwu Mountain Shakyamuni Sutra map, the Nara National Museum of Japan collection of Shakyamuni Sutra map, etc., and when the belief in the Fodun Rongsheng, there is a direct correlation. At this time, the embroidery technique is still inherited from the Han Dynasty lock embroidery, but the needle has begun to change the use of flat embroidery is mainly, and using a variety of different stitches, a variety of color thread. The material used for the embroidery base was not limited to brocade and flat silk. Embroidery patterns used, and painting has a close relationship with the Tang Dynasty paintings in addition to the Buddha figures, landscapes, flowers and birds also gradually flourished. Therefore, Buddhist figures, landscapes and pavilions, flowers and birds also became embroidery patterns with lively compositions and bright colors. Using the embroidery method of micro-fine flat embroidery, the use of various color threads and stitches, instead of paint strokes, formed a special art, which is also the unique style of Tang embroidery. As for the use of gold and silver thread coiled around the outline of the pattern, to strengthen the three-dimensional sense of the object, can be regarded as an innovation of the Tang Dynasty embroidery.
Tang before the embroidery, mostly for practical and decorative purposes, embroidery content and life needs and customs. Song Dynasty embroidery, in addition to practical products, especially committed to embroidery painting. Since the Jin and Tang dynasties, the literati loved calligraphy and painting, and calligraphy and painting were the highest artistic expressions at that time. In the Song Dynasty, calligraphy and painting styles directly affected the embroidery style. The style of calligraphy and painting directly affected the style of embroidery. The relationship between embroidery and painting should be inseparable from each other throughout the ages up to the Qing Dynasty.
Song Dynasty embroidery developed, because the court rewarded the promotion of the reason. According to the "History of Song Dynasty - Officials", the Palace Embroidery House in charge of compiling embroidery. Huizong years and set up embroidery painting specialization, so that the embroidery painting classification for landscapes, pavilions, people, flowers and birds, and thus the famous embroiderer one after another, so that the development of painting to the highest level, and from the practical to the art of appreciation, will be the calligraphy and painting into the embroidery, the formation of a unique ornamental embroidery work. In order to make the work reach the spiritual state of painting and calligraphy, it is necessary to have a plan before embroidery, and when embroidering, it is necessary to measure the situation, which tends to be exquisite. Composition must be simplified, the pattern of taking the white is very important, and the Tang Dynasty, regardless of whether there is a pattern of full of embroidery is very different, the Ming Dynasty Dong Qichang "Peony Qingxuan Secret Record", "Song embroidery, needle and thread fine, with the velvet is not one or two silk, with a needle such as a hair thin, for the color is subtle colorful color shooting eyes. Landscape sub-far and near the interest of the pavilion to be the body of the depth of the characters with a look at the vivid feelings, birds and flowers extremely nicknamed gobbling attitude. Better than the painting is even better, look at the three interesting all ready, ten fingers of spring, cover to this". This paragraph describes the characteristics of Song embroidery.
Yuan dynasty embroidery is very few, Taiwan hired the National Palace Museum has only one piece of work, from the works of view, is still inherited the Song dynasty legacy. Yuan people with velvet a little thick, drop needle is not dense, not as Song embroidery of exquisite work.
Ming dynasty dyeing and weaving process, to the Xuande began to become developed. Embroidery began in the Jiajing period Shanghai Gu Lu Xiangyuan, embroidery family, famous women. The second grandson of Gu Ming Shi, Gu Shou Qian, and his wife, Han Ximeng, were well versed in the six methods of embroidery, far from the true heritage of the Tang and Song dynasties. Gu Shouqian and his wife Han Ximeng were well versed in the six methods of embroidery, which were far from the true tradition of the Tang and Song Dynasty hair embroidery. They copied and embroidered the calligraphy and paintings of ancient and modern celebrities, and they had their own secret techniques of silk matching and color matching, which made them able to dye and create a text, and the embroidered landscapes, figures, flowers, and birds, all of which were exquisite. This is the world-famous Gu embroidery.
Gu embroidery needlework, the main inheritance of the Song Dynasty has become the most complete embroidery method, more changes and the use of, can be said to be a set of needlework. Thread is still mostly used flat line, sometimes also used twisted thread, silk as fine as hair, stitching flat, and the use of color line variety, is not comparable to the Song embroidery. At the same time and the use of intermediate color lines, borrowing and complementary colors, embroidery and painting, and strive to realistic original. And depending on the pattern required, you can take materials at will, not confined to the method, real grass, Siamese cocktail feathers, thin gold, hair can be embroidered into the new ideas, especially the use of hair embroidery to complete the production of paintings, in the history of the world of dyeing and weaving has never been seen, that is, it can be seen that Gu Embroidery has a very skillful embroidery technology.
Qing Dynasty embroidery, court embroidery, most of the imperial embroidery, by the Palace Office of the Ruyi Hall of the painter to draw the pattern, after approval and then sent to the Jiangnan Weaving jurisdiction of the three weaving and embroidery workshops, embroidery, embroidery is very neat and exquisite. In addition to the imperial court embroidery, at the same time in the folk have appeared many local embroidery, famous Lu embroidery, Guangdong embroidery, Hunan embroidery, Beijing embroidery, Suzhou embroidery, Shu embroidery, etc., each with local characteristics. The four kinds of local embroidery, namely, Suzhou, Shu, Guangdong and Hunan, were later called the "Four Famous Embroideries", among which Suzhou Embroidery was the most famous. During the heyday of Suzhou Embroidery, the schools of embroidery flourished, famous artists competed, and the use of embroidery was popularized in daily life, resulting in a variety of changes in embroidery stitches, finer embroidery, and more ingenious embroidery threads and colors. Most of the patterns made for celebration, longevity, auspiciousness, especially birds and flowers embroidery, loved by the people, enjoying the famous embroidery everyone one after another, such as Ding Pei, Shen Shou and so on.
The end of the Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, Western learning, Su embroidery appeared innovative works. In the Guangxu period, Yu Jue's wife Shen Yunzhi embroidery skills, known as Suzhou embroidery world. Shen's 30 years old, at the 70th birthday of Empress Dowager Cixi, Shen embroidered "Eight Immortals Celebrate Longevity" of eight frames of work to celebrate the birthday, was presented with the word "blessed" and "life", and thus changed its name to Shen Shou. Shen embroidery with new ideas to transport the old method, show light and color, with the use of realism, the characteristics of Western painting Xiao Shen simulation in embroidery, the new "simulation embroidery", or "art embroidery", stitching varied, rich in three-dimensional sense.
With the development and innovation of Suzhou embroidery, extended to today, and the formation of many new embroidery, such as needlepoint embroidery, bundle embroidery, double-sided embroidery, double-sided color embroidery, micro-embroidery, color brocade embroidery and so on. In addition, there are many embroideries of border ethnic minorities, which also fully express the natural beauty and simplicity of the original style. The earliest embroidery was mostly for practical use, but it gradually became a precious art form in the Song and Yuan dynasties, when it was widely used in calligraphy and painting. The embroideries in the National Palace are mostly of this kind. The earliest of these embroideries was made during the Five Dynasties, and the most popular ones were made during the Qing Dynasty. Throughout the generations of innovation and development, each with its own characteristics, all have a high degree of achievement. Taiwan National Palace Museum collection is almost all fine, embroidery neat, fine needle and thread, color exquisite, deep calligraphy essence, and are mounted into albums and scrolls, so that the viewer is often mistaken for painting and calligraphy, appreciate the collection of art value is very high.
Three, Chinese embroidery school
Su embroidery: a long history, in the Song Dynasty has a considerable scale, in Suzhou on the emergence of embroidered clothes, embroidery, embroidery, embroidery, embroidery, embroidery and other production of concentrated lane. In the Ming Dynasty, Suzhou embroidery has gradually formed its own unique style, with a wider influence. The Qing Dynasty was the peak period, when the royal embroidery, mostly from the hands of Su embroidery artists; folk embroidery is even more rich and colorful. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Shen Shou pioneered the "simulation embroidery", which was well known in China and abroad, and she had successively taken on apprentices in Suzhou, Beijing, Tianjin, Nantong and other places to cultivate a generation of newcomers.In the 1930s, Yang Shouyu, the head of the embroidery section of the Danyang Zhengzhe Women's Vocational School, founded the messy-needle embroidery, which enriched the embroidery stitching method of Suzhou. Suzhou embroidery is known for its fine, elegant and clean style. The patterns are beautiful, the colors are quiet, the needlework is flexible, the embroidery is meticulous, and the images are vivid. Technique characteristics can be summarized as "flat, light, Qi, uniform, and, smooth, fine, dense" eight words. There are dozens of kinds of needles, and the commonly used ones are Qiqi needle, robbing needle, set needle, net embroidery, yarn embroidery, etc. The embroideries are divided into two categories: one category of embroideries and the other category of embroideries. Embroidery products are divided into two categories: one is practical products, including quilt tops, pillowcases, embroidered clothes, theater clothes, table blankets, cushions, etc.; the other is appreciated products, including table screens, hanging scrolls, screens, etc. The materials are widely used, such as flowers, flowers and other flowers. There are a wide range of materials, such as flowers, animals, figures, landscapes, calligraphy and so on. Double-sided embroidery "goldfish", "kitten" is a representative work of Su embroidery. Su embroidery has been presented as gifts to the heads of state for more than 80 times, exhibited in nearly 100 countries and regions, and more than 100 times went abroad for embroidery performance. In 1982 won the National Arts and Crafts Hundred Flowers Award Gold Cup Award, double-sided embroidery "goldfish" miscellaneous in 1984, the 56th "Poznan International Fair" won the Gold Medal.
Xiang embroidery: Changsha, Hunan Province as the center of the embroidery of the general term. It is developed on the basis of Hunan folk embroidery, absorbing the advantages of Suzhou embroidery and Guangdong embroidery. During the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty, there were many women engaged in embroidery in Changsha County. In 1898, Wu Hanchen, the son of Hu Lianxian, an excellent embroiderer, opened the first self-embroidery and self-sale "Wu Caixia Embroidery Workshop" in Changsha, and his works were so fine that they were spread all over the world, and Hunan embroidery became famous all over the country. In the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, Yang Shichuo of Ningxiang advocated folk embroidery in Hunan, and he went into the embroidery workshop for a long time to draw embroidery scripts, and he also created many kinds of stitches, which improved the level of Hunan embroidery art. In the early days, Hunan embroidery was mainly used to embroider daily decorations, and later gradually increased the number of works with pictorial themes. Hunan embroidery is characterized by the use of velvet thread (no floss) embroidery, split silk meticulous, embroidered velvet flower pattern with a sense of reality. Often based on Chinese paintings, the colors are rich and bright, with a strong emphasis on yin and yang, vivid and realistic forms, and a bold style, which was once known as "embroidered flowers can be fragrant, embroidered birds can be heard, embroidered tigers can run, and embroiderers can convey the spirit of the gods". Hunan embroidery with special disheveled needle embroidered lion, tiger and other animals, hair silk powerful, powerful and robust. 1982, in the national arts and crafts Hundred Flowers Award competition, Hunan embroidery won the Gold Cup Award.
Guangdong embroidery: also known as "Canton embroidery". It refers to the embroidery products of Guangdong in the past 2 or 3 centuries. Guangdong embroidery has a long history, it is rumored that the original founding of the ethnic minorities, and the brocade made by the Li people from the same source. In the early Qing Dynasty, Qu Dajun's "New Words of Guangdong" and Zhu Qixian's "Record of Silk Embroidery in Cunsu Tang" described that as far back as the Ming Dynasty, Cantonese embroidery used peacock feathers to weave threads for embroidery to make the embroidery products eye-catching in gold and emerald color, and also used horsetail hairs entangled with velvet as the threads for strings, so as to make better expression of the outlining techniques of Cantonese embroidery; "the spreading of needles is more than the millimeter of awns, and the strokes are made without forgetting the rules. ...... The outlines and patterns are natural and neat". To the Qing Dynasty Cantonese embroidery has been greater development. Domestic collection to the National Palace collection for the most representative. Composition complex but not chaotic, colorful and eye-catching, uniform needle step, stitching varied, texture clear, good to stay in the waterway. Cantonese embroidery has a wide range of products, mainly for appreciation of banners, hanging screens, table screens, etc.; practical products are quilt tops, pillowcases, bed friezes, shawls, turbans, table draperies and embroidered clothing. Generally more sketches of birds and flowers, rich in decorative flavor, often with the phoenix, peony, pine and crane, apes, deer, as well as chickens, geese, etc. as the subject matter, mixed with the composition of the picture. Women's sleeves and skirts are mostly full of flowers, and the velvet is very thin and flat against the communicator's surface. In the 18th century, Nasi embroidery was lined with sheepskin gold (known as "Pijin embroidery" in Guangdong), which made the gold glittering and especially exquisite. 1982, Cantonese embroidery won the Golden Cup Award of National Arts and Crafts with works such as "Morning Sun" and "Hundred Birds Communicating to the Phoenix". Hundred Flowers Award Gold Cup Award.
Shu embroidery: also known as "Sichuan embroidery". It is the general name of the embroidery centered in Chengdu, Sichuan Province. It has a long history. According to the Jin Dynasty Chang Qu "Huayang Guo Zhi", at that time, Shu embroidery has been very famous, and Shu brocade with the same name, are known as the treasure of Shu. During the Daoguang period of the Qing Dynasty, Shu embroidery had already formed a professional production, and there were many embroidery stores in Chengdu, both embroidering and selling. Shu embroidery uses soft satin and colored silk as the main raw materials. The contents of the theme include landscapes, figures, birds and flowers, insects and fish. Needle by the initial finishing, there are sets of needles, halo needle, oblique rolling needle, spinning needle, Sen needle, shed Sen needle, knitting needle and so on more than 100 kinds of. The varieties include quilt tops, pillow cases, embroidered clothes, shoe tops and other daily necessities as well as table screens, hanging screens and other appreciated items. The embroidered dragon and phoenix soft satin quilt top and the traditional product "Hibiscus Carp" are the most famous. The characteristics of Shu embroidery: vivid image, bright colors, rich in three-dimensional sense, short needle fine, stitching, piece of thread bright, rich changes, with strong local characteristics. 1982, Shu embroidery won the National Arts and Crafts Hundred Flowers Award Silver Cup Award.
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