Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - What are the Technological Requirements of Silk Fabrics —— Seven Technological Requirements of Silk Fabrics
What are the Technological Requirements of Silk Fabrics —— Seven Technological Requirements of Silk Fabrics
Do you know how silk fabrics are made? Do you know any requirements for the production of silk fabrics? Below, I will share with you seven requirements for making silk fabrics, hoping to help you!
Before fabric cutting
Due to the high shrinkage rate of silk fabrics, the fabrics must be pre-shrunk before cutting, otherwise the size of the finished clothes will shrink and change greatly after washing, and sometimes they can't be worn anymore.
In daily production, the following two treatment methods are generally adopted:
1. In the mass production of large enterprises, before cutting, fabrics can be typeset after steam pre-shrinking and drying.
2. When manufacturing small batches or single pieces. Soak the fabric in water first, but not for too long, so as to avoid the smell of the fabric matching each other. Generally, soak in water10 "-20 minutes, take it out, and hang it in a cool and ventilated place to dry naturally.
Then, after ironing the reverse side of the fabric with an iron, typesetting is carried out. When ironing tussah silk fabric, you should also avoid spraying water to avoid leaving water stains.
When ironing, the temperature of these two fabrics can be controlled at about 120 degrees. When ironing the front, you must use a pad cloth, otherwise there will be aurora.
Determination of finished product size
Because the protein fiber of silk fabric is easy to be damaged when it is rubbed by external force, the style design is not easy to fit. In the fourth issue of Liaoning Silk in 2006, it is best to determine the clothing size according to the fit or slightly loose size, so that the clothing is more comfortable and elegant, and it can also prevent the fabric from tangling and affecting the appearance.
drawing board
1. Because the fabric of mulberry silk is smooth and light, you must first find the direction of longitude and latitude before making the board, then fix the fabric on the chopping board with clips or pins, and then draw the board according to the model, so as to avoid the fabric from twisting and deformation, which will affect the shape of the clothing.
2. Tussah silk fabric is slightly thicker and less smooth than mulberry silk fabric, so the fixation process before stretching is simpler.
Before processing and production
1. Processing requirements for cutting parts
The main parts of the clothing and the left and right symmetrical parts must be marked accurately, especially the front pocket, front and rear neckline, collar angle and sleeve midpoint. The left and right parts must be symmetrical, and no errors are allowed. Otherwise, the fabric will be twisted and beaten after the garment is finished, which will affect the shape and appearance.
2. Debugging of the machine
(1) Mulberry silk fabrics have strict requirements on the machines used, and the pressure of the machine presser foot must be adjusted to the minimum. The tightness of the upper and lower lines must be moderate, the stitches should be even and straight, the stitches should not be too dense, and the stitches should be slightly larger.
If these points can't meet the requirements, there will be wrinkles, seams and straightness of the fabric at the seams, which will affect the process quality.
(2) Tussah silk fabric requires moderate angular pressure, and other requirements are the same as mulberry silk fabric.
in process of production
Take unlined shirts and clothing in summer as an example, as follows:
1. The opening of the front of the garment requires accurate shape, straight and uniform stitch, and equal width from the edge, with an error of no more than 0. 1cm.
2. There are two main ways to deal with hidden seams on clothes.
(1). Yard edge sewing: The operation method of thick clothes is to stitch first. Because the fabrics in summer are relatively thin, when making clothes, they are sewn first and then wrapped.
The specific operation method is: cut the fabric to be sewn with the front face facing each other and the seams aligned, with a distance of 0.8 ~ 1 cm from the edge, sew it with a sewing machine, and then wrap the sewn seams with a hemming machine, so that the hemming stitches are straight, uniform and equal in width.
2 hemming, also called sewing. That is, first make a line on the front and then make a line on the back.
The specific operation method is as follows: first, the reverse side of the fabric is opposite, the stitches are aligned, and the distance from the edge is 0.3 ~ 0.4 cm, then the closed stitches are hidden inside, and then the front side of the fabric is opposite, and the stitches are folded outward, with a distance of 0.5-0.6 cm, and closed with a sewing machine.
The two seams must be equal in width, the second seam must cover the first seam, and there is no difference in the front of the garment. The appearance must be clean and tidy, and the seam E should be straight.
Hand sewing technology
Due to the thin silk fabric, hand sewing skills are very demanding, especially for high-end finished garments, such as hem and cuffs, which require that the front and back sides should not be exposed with stitches, which is difficult to operate. The hand sewing technology of the reverse side of middle and low-grade clothes is low. Allow smaller stitches to be seen.
Treatment of ironing process
The ironing process is carried out according to the procedure of ordinary shirts. The ironing method must be done in strict accordance with the previous requirements, and attention should be paid to avoiding water stains and aurora.
Other production processes of silk shirts are all in accordance with the requirements of ordinary shirts. Although there are few technological processes of silk shirts, because the fabric is too thin, the technical requirements in production are relatively high, and each step must be done in strict accordance with the prescribed process, so as to produce high-quality high-end products.
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