Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - What is the difference between men's and women's clothing in Han Dynasty? Please be more specific ~ ~ Thank you.

What is the difference between men's and women's clothing in Han Dynasty? Please be more specific ~ ~ Thank you.

Han nationality clothes

The Manchu dynasty brought great changes to the Han nationality's clothing appearance, and sent the Han nationality's crown clothing that lasted for two or three thousand years to the grave. In the second year of Shunzhi, the Qing army captured the provinces in the south of the Yangtze River, and the Qing government ordered the implementation of the system of shaving and changing clothes throughout the country. The Qing government ordered that all men should shave their hair and braid their hair within 10 days from the date of official documents. If there is a "clear system, those who do not follow the current system will be punished." In line with this, it is necessary to forcibly change the clothing style of the Han people. At that time, countless people were killed for wearing Hanfu. Han people strongly resisted the orders of the Qing government, and resistance activities broke out one after another. The long-term resistance struggle and the situation that the Qing dynasty dominated the country made the Qing government consider making some concessions to stabilize the situation. Therefore, "ten obedience and ten disobedience" is put forward, that is, men don't obey women, life doesn't die, yang doesn't obey yin, officials don't obey officials, old people don't obey, Confucianism doesn't follow Buddhism and Taoism, and it is advocated. And: the official does not marry, the country does not follow the name, and the service tax does not follow the language. This limited concession finally retained some characteristics of Hanfu.

First, the style of Han national costumes

Men's style:

1) Since the "Yellow Emperor ruled the world by hanging down his clothes", the wide-breasted, wide-breasted, big-sleeved and wide-breasted clothes (represented by Qin and Han costumes) have continued in Xia, Shang, Zhou (Spring and Autumn and Warring States Period), Qin, Han, Three Kingdoms, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Sui and Tang Dynasties, Five Dynasties, Song Dynasty and Mengyuan. And affected Japan, North Korea and other countries. This is the most common style of Japanese kimono.

2) T-shirts (worn by Li Shimin, Emperor Taizong), which have been popular since Sui and Tang Dynasties, continued the Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasties. And affected Japan, North Korea and other countries. Song Taizu and Ming Taizu wear this kind of clothes. So far, the clothes worn by the Japanese emperor on some occasions are all variants of this Hanfu.

There are relatively many styles of women's wear, but there are only two basic models.

1) Large-breasted right collar (also represented by Qin and Han costumes).

2) The big-breasted and low-breasted clothes that appeared in Sui and Tang Dynasties are different from the deep clothes in Qin and Han Dynasties. The clothes are divided into tops and bottoms, and the clothes are not connected together like the deep clothes. These two styles of women's clothing had a great influence on the national costumes (women's clothing) in Song and Ming Dynasties and in Japan and South Korea.

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, Han women also wore Hu clothes with narrow sleeves and tight lapels, but those Hu clothes were basically popular? Wei Chuang Mo Dong Dong has a shallow stool. The emperor pinched the crane down? Hey? Hey, k, mosquitoes make cranes do nine things? Park? What's the matter with you?

The costumes of Qin, Han, Tang, Song and Ming are different in some places, but the main parts are the same. The basic style of deep clothes in the Western Han Dynasty is the same as that in the Ming Dynasty, but there are differences in details. * * * Sex is big chest, right collar, wide robe and big sleeves. In fact, Hanfu, like big shirts, wide robes and big sleeves, was still worn by Han people in the Tang Dynasty, but in the north centered on Chang 'an, it was mainly round neck, while in wuyue, it was similar in the Song and Ming Dynasties. It was during the Nara period of Niao (China Tang Dynasty) that Japanese kimono was introduced to China and developed into today's Japanese kimono.

Second, the style of Han costumes

If we compare the Han nationality with the European nationality, we will find that they are obviously different in many ways. For thousands of years, the overall style of Han costumes has been light and simple. In ancient times, the full set of clothes of the Han nationality can best reflect this style. The main features of this robe are wide sleeves and a wide belt. Although the shape is simple, once it is put on people, it looks different and has strong plasticity. Although we can't see all kinds of prototypes of this kind of clothing now, from the silk paintings of Han Dynasty and some figure paintings left over from Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties, we can still get a glimpse of its divine feature-the simple Chinese coat attached to people with different postures, which suddenly has a fresh vitality, soft and smooth lines and makes people think. Simple and plain clothes add a natural charm to them. Robe clothing fully embodies the gentle, refined, detached and calm national character of the Han nationality, as well as the simple, natural, subtle, elegant and fresh aesthetic taste.

Why did you force the Han people to shave their heads and change clothes after the establishment of Sanqing?

According to common sense, what clothes to wear and what hairstyle to comb have little to do with the rule, but after the Manchu entered the customs and established the Qing Dynasty, they were given new connotations. Han people can't accept alien rule, not because the country falls into alien hands, but because Han people look down on the barbarians around them in their bones and think they are barbaric, ignorant and uneducated. Accepting their rule is an insult to the Han people. The Han nationality has thousands of years of civilization and splendid culture. Compared with foreigners, the Han nationality has a strong sense of cultural superiority (cultural arrogance). In contrast, Manchu culture is really superficial and has no civilization at all, which is really shameful. On the one hand, this sense of national inferiority urges Manchu aristocrats to study China culture hard, on the other hand, it also makes Manchu aristocrats afraid that Han people will look down on them. Therefore, the best way to govern the Han people is to let them learn foreign customs. After the establishment of the Qing Dynasty, hundreds of thousands of Han people were killed because of their clothes and hairstyles. At that time, a western missionary in China saw these scenes and wrote: "No other ethnic group in the world was slaughtered like the Han people because of their clothes and hairstyles."

Fourth, Japanese kimono.

China's influence on Japan's economic and cultural life entered the most remarkable period in asuka period and Nara. At that time, China ancient wuyue's long-sleeved robe spread to Japan, becoming the formal suit of the upper class, especially the formal suit of the imperial court. In the subsequent historical changes, small sleeve changed from underwear to coat, the sleeves of kimono became shorter and shorter, the belts became narrower and wider, the patterns and patterns were constantly being renovated, and the dyeing and weaving technology became more and more exquisite and luxurious. But the basic elements of kimono have not changed, so until today, the Japanese still call kimono martial arts. In many schools that teach kimono weaving, we should talk about the historical knowledge that kimono originated from the culture of Sui and Tang Dynasties in China.

Five, Koryo clothing

There are many gorgeous decorations on girls' clothes in Korean courts. Similar to Han costumes, but the skirt is loose and fluffy.

Basic national costumes of Han nationality (Western Zhou Dynasty);

National costume of Han nationality: Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period (men's clothing)

Clothing generally follows the clothing system of Shang Dynasty, with only slight changes. The style of clothes is slightly looser than that of Shang Dynasty. There are two kinds of sleeves: big sleeves and small sleeve, and the collar is generally rectangular, as shown in the figure. Clothing in this period has not been twisted, usually tied around the waist, and some belts are still hung with jade ornaments. At that time, there were mainly two kinds of belts: one was made of silk fabric, which was called "big belt" or "gentry belt". Another kind of belt is made of leather, which is called "belt". This picture shows a gentleman's belt.

National costume of Han nationality: Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period (women's clothing)

A curly robe. There is an obvious difference between clothes with deep curves and other clothes, except that the lower part and the upper part of the coat are connected together, which is called "continuous hem" Pants are skirts. "Continuation" means extending the skirt. "Crochet" describes the style of skirt. Changed the previous cutting method that clothes were mostly spread at the bottom. The front and rear pieces of the left skirt are stitched, and the rear skirt is lengthened. The lengthened skirt forms a triangle, which is worn around the back and then tied with a belt.

National costume of Han nationality: Qin Zhuang (women's dress)

In Qin and Han dynasties, arc-shaped deep clothes were not only worn by men, but also the most common clothing style in women's wear. This dress is tight and narrow, and can be dragged to the ground. The hem is generally trumpet-shaped and does not expose the feet. Sleeves are wide and narrow, and cuffs are mostly wrapped. The collar part is very distinctive, usually a cross collar, and the neckline is very low to expose underwear. Wear a few clothes, and the collar of each layer will be exposed, up to more than three layers, which is called "triple clothes".

National costume of Han nationality: Qin dynasty costume (men's clothing)

Qin is still black, so the standard color of Qin clothing is black. But the style is still broad-chested and right-handed Basically follow the Warring States period.

National costume of Han nationality: Western Han costume (men's clothing) (picture taken from Emperor Wu of Han Dynasty)

Men's deep clothes in Han Dynasty. Men's clothing styles in Han Dynasty can be roughly divided into Qu Luan and Zhi Luan. Qu Qu, that is, the deep clothes popular in the Warring States period. It was still used in the Han Dynasty, but it was more common in the early Western Han Dynasty. By the Eastern Han Dynasty, it was rare for men to wear deep clothes, usually straight clothes, but they could not be used as formal clothes. This photo is such a crooked dress.

The costumes of ordinary people in Han dynasty;

Left 1 The dress picture of ordinary people in the Han Dynasty shows a waiter in a skirt (pottery figurine unearthed from Mengjialiang Han Tomb in Baotou, Inner Mongolia). The second picture on the left shows a waiter in a scarf and robe (painted pottery figurines unearthed in Pengjiazhai, Handan, Hebei). The third picture on the left is a man in a hat and robe. The fourth picture on the left shows a maid wearing a hairpin and a long skirt (a pottery figurine of the Han Dynasty unearthed in Chongqing, Sichuan). The fifth picture on the left shows an acrobat wearing a scarf, shirtless, barefoot and scorpions (relief stone rubbings unearthed from Han tombs in Yinan, Shandong). The picture on the right shows the waiter in robes (pottery figurines unearthed in Xi 'an, Shaanxi). It was stipulated in the Han Dynasty that people were not allowed to wear clothes of various colors, but only natural linen. It was not until the end of the Western Han Dynasty (BC 13) that civilians were allowed to wear green clothes. The ban on businessmen is stricter. But there seems to be no strict system in the style of clothing. From the unearthed pottery figurines and portrait bricks of the Han Dynasty, it can be seen that the workers wear a bun, a hat, a towel or a hat, and almost all the clothes they wear are lapels that hang down to their knees and have narrow sleeves.

National costume of Han nationality: Western Han costume (women's dress)

Women's deep clothing in Han Dynasty is not only worn by men, but also the most common clothing style in women's clothing, which is reflected in many image materials. This kind of clothing is tight and narrow, long and easy to drag, and its hem is generally trumpet-shaped and does not show its feet. Sleeves are wide and narrow, and cuffs are mostly wrapped. The collar part is very distinctive, usually a cross collar, and the neckline is very low to expose underwear. In addition, the tight-fitting clothes with narrow sleeves in Han Dynasty. After many twists and turns, the clothes were wrapped around the hips and tied with ribbons. There are also exquisite and gorgeous patterns painted on the clothes.

The national costume of the Han nationality: the straight dress of the Han dynasty (women's dress, different from Ququ)

Both men and women can wear it in Han Dynasty. This kind of dress appeared as early as the Western Han Dynasty, but it can't be used as a formal dress. The reason is that ancient trousers had no crotch, only two legs were covered to the knees and tied to the waist with a belt. This kind of crotch-less trousers will be exposed without a coat, which was considered as disrespectful at that time. So it is necessary to wear colorful clothes outside. Later, with the increasingly complete clothing, the form of pants has also been improved, and crotch pants have appeared. As a result of the improvement of underwear, it is redundant to wrap the deep clothes around the front, so after the Eastern Han Dynasty, straight lines gradually became popular, replacing the deep clothes.

National costume of Han nationality: clothing of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties (men's clothing)

Men's wear has the characteristics of the times, generally wearing big sleeve shirts. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion.

National costume of Han nationality: costume of Southern and Northern Dynasties (a kind of women's dress)

Women's wear in Wei and Jin dynasties inherited the customs of Qin and Han dynasties, and absorbed the characteristics of minority costumes, and improved them on the basis of tradition. Generally speaking, they wear shirts, coats and rafts with skirts at the bottom. Most styles are tight at the top and loose at the bottom, with tight body parts and wide cuffs. The skirt is pleated skirt, long skirt and loose hem, thus achieving a handsome and chic effect.

National costume of Han nationality: Li Shimin, Emperor Taizong.

This is another style of Han men's wear-round neck narrow (wide) sleeve robe. The hat on the head, also known as Fu Tou, is the first kind of clothing formed on the basis of the Han and Wei Dynasties. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament to the hoe, called "towel". The shape of towels varies from time to time. Besides towels, many changes have taken place in the feet of steamed bread. By the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the original soft foot had become a hard foot with one left and one right.

National costume of Han nationality: Tang suit (women's dress)

This is another basic dress of Han women's wear, with a skirt on it. It has a great influence on women's wear in later generations. Tang costume is the main dress of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts in the middle Tang Dynasty are wider than those in the early Tang Dynasty, and the others have not changed much. This painting shows the middle Tang people wearing skirts and silk.

National costumes of Han nationality: Five Dynasties and Five Dynasties costumes.

The costumes of the Five Dynasties basically followed the costumes of the Tang Dynasty. This painting shows women in long skirts and scholars in robes in the late Tang Dynasty (part of Gu Hong's "Han Xizai's Night Banquet"). When Li Yu, the late ruler of the Southern Tang Dynasty, was in office, he thought of taking Han Xizai, assistant minister of Chinese literature, as a photograph, but he heard that Han Xizai was ignorant of political affairs and indulged in debauchery, and often called close friends of vocal performers to have dinner at home. So he sent the painter of the Academy to peep and memorize the scenes of the guests' feasting, and then drew a draft and presented it to Li Yu. This painting is a picture of Han Xizai's banquet, which enjoys a high reputation in the history of Chinese painting. The figures, costumes and household appliances in the painting are all real, reflecting the situation in this period. Except Han Xizai and another monk, all the men in the picture are wearing hoes and robes, and the robes are all green, which seems to be related to the system at that time. The hoe's feet droop slightly, and there may be "silk strings" in the middle, so it has certain elasticity, which is a common style in the late Tang and Five Dynasties. Han Xizai himself, wearing a gauze cap, blouse and shoes, is a kind of casual clothes. The women's clothes in the picture also conform to the facts at that time, mainly short skirts and round neck robes. The waist is usually tied with ribbons, and the rest hangs like two streamers. The flounder is narrower than that of the Tang Dynasty, but its length is obviously increased, about three to four meters.

National costume of Han nationality: Song Dynasty costume (men's clothing 1)

Han men's wear in Song Dynasty followed two traditional styles: wide chest, right collar and round neck. This is the style of large-breasted right collar.

Han Nationality's Costume: Song Dynasty Costume (Men's Wear 2)

Han men's wear in Song Dynasty followed two traditional styles: wide chest, right collar and round neck. This is a round neck style, and the cuffs of this style are wider than those of men's wear in Tang and Song Dynasties.

National costume of Han nationality: Song Dynasty costume (women's dress 2)

There are two basic styles of Han women's dresses in Song Dynasty: large breasted and right breasted. This is a double-breasted style. Women's wear is more diverse than men's wear.

National costume of Han nationality: Ming dynasty costume (men's clothing 1)

In the Ming Dynasty, Han men's clothing styles still followed two traditional styles, namely, big chest, right collar and round neck. This is a round neck style. (Clothing of the Emperor of the Ming Dynasty)

National costume of Han nationality: Ming dynasty costume (men's clothing 2)

In the Ming Dynasty, Han men's clothing styles still followed two traditional styles, namely, big chest, right collar and round neck. This is the style of large-breasted right collar.

Women's wear in Ming dynasty

The common clothes and casual clothes of women in Ming Dynasty mainly include shirts, coats, gowns, backpacks, bibs and skirts. Most of the basic styles of clothes were imitated from the Tang and Song Dynasties, and they were generally right-handed, which restored the customs of the Han nationality. Among them, Bi Xia, Beizi and Gaby are double-breasted and split left and right. Adult women's clothing, with the changes of family and identity, has a variety of different shapes. Ordinary women's clothes are relatively simple, mainly including skirts, backs, coats, shoulders and robes. Robe evolved from the back, characterized by low collar, double-breasted and wide sleeves, with little or no lace on the collar and sleeves, long and plump. The picture on the left shows the lady with heavy makeup (illustrated in Swallow Notes, published in Chongzhen period of Ming Dynasty). The picture in the middle is a woman wearing a back (an illustration of a moon pavilion carved in Wanli period of Ming Dynasty). The picture on the right shows a woman in a long skirt (a picture of Wanli period in Ming Dynasty).

In the Ming Dynasty, women usually wore skirts and trousers. Among them, silks and satins are cut into stripes with regular sizes, each with a flower-and-bird pattern embroidered, and the other two sides are inlaid with gold thread, which is broken into skirts, that is, "phoenix-tailed skirts". It is more useful to fold the whole satin with fine pleats, which is a "hundred-fold skirt"

Ming dynasty general Jia

In the Ming dynasty, there was a kind of fat coat in armor worn by Ming soldiers, which was made of "knee-length, narrow sleeves and inner cotton" and was red in color, so it was also called "red fat coat". Knights ride horses in double-breasted clothes. Battlefield is mostly made of copper and iron, and leather is rarely used. The armor worn by the general is also made of copper and iron, and the shape of the armor plate is mostly "mountain", which is accurate and light to wear. Soldiers wear chain mail, iron mesh skirt pants and iron mesh boots below the waist.