Manufacturing technology of summer cloth

(1) Natural bleaching of ramie, the raw material for making summer cloth, generally includes the following types:

1. Clear water bleaching method: it is carried out in different processes such as finishing, drying, watering and dewing. Before sunrise, the ramie is arranged in bands, arranged in a row from top to bottom, and wrapped around the post with a rope, so that it can be turned over in the sun and the ramie can be rinsed all over. Aft sunrise, spread that arranged hemp row on the grass, let it be fully exposed (exposed to dew), then sprinkle clean water (usually after 8: 30 in the morning), and sprinkle water every 4-5 times. After drying, turn it over slowly, and sprinkle water repeatedly, turn it over and sprinkle it again. When sprinkling water, you should pay attention to the right amount and avoid too much (to avoid piling up for too long and rotting in rainy days). At about 2: 30 in the afternoon, we will tie up ramie for several days. It will become white ramie after about 5-6 days.

2. Sunlight rinsing method: soak dry ramie in spring water for 65,438 0-2 hours, then take it out and expose it in the sun, then soak dry ramie in spring water and expose it in the sun, and repeat this for several times to obtain fine white fiber.

3. Dew-bleaching method: On a clear night, the ramie is laid flat on the grass and soaked with dew, and the ramie fiber is white after repeated times.

4. Lime water bleaching method: soak ramie in lime water, take it out, rinse it with spring water, and then dry it in the sun, the color is white.

5. Charcoal fumigation method: put ramie in a cellar or bamboo cage, bake it with charcoal fire, then dry it in the sun until it is half dry, rinse it with spring water, then dry it in the sun, soak it in spring water and dry it again, and repeat it for 2-3 times, so that ramie fibers turn white.

6. Cow dung impregnation method: put cow dung and warm water into a vat, fully stir, then put ramie into water 1-2 hours, take it out, rinse it with clean water, expose it to the sun, and then soak it in cow dung water again for 3-4 times continuously, and ramie fiber will turn white.

Ramie rinsed and adjusted by the above method is divided into standard strong, head strong, second strong, third strong, hundred rope, sun-cured and other grades (names) according to its quality and length, and bundled.

Strong-ramie is white and shiny, and its length is more than 4 feet 5 inches. Used for making 1200 buttons.

Touzhuang-slightly worse than Biao Zhuang, 3 feet 8 inches long, used to make 800- 1000 buckle middle and upper summer cloth.

Erzhuang and Sanzhuang-second only to Touzhuang, which are 3 feet long, are used to make 600-800 buckles of summer medium-sized fabrics.

White rope, with poor sun-drying-rinsing and poor color, is less than 3 feet long and is used for weaving 400-500 buckles of summer cloth.

(2) Functional yarn

It is divided into five processes: bleaching, shredding, winding, twisting and winding. When performing the yarn, all the women workers will tear the naturally bleached ramie into pieces, roll them into wisps, put them into a clear water basin, then comb them into ramie filaments with their fingers, put them on their thighs, twist them into fine ramie yarns by hand, and then roll them into small wisps like cocoon filaments.

(3) weaving

It is divided into four processes: brushing, weaving, sizing and weaving, among which brushing and weaving are more difficult. If the process is not refined, yarn breakage is time-consuming and there are many defective products. Warp and brush cloth are mostly made by men. When brushing cloth, separate the yarn that has been wound into yarn, straighten and lengthen it, hang one end on the warp frame, roll the other end into a big knot, wrap it with a wooden stick (5-6 feet long) and press it with a big stone. How many warp yarns hang depends on what kind of summer cloth is produced, so you must use a sizing brush. After the sizing is dry, dip it in the pre-cooked rice flour paste (rice flour paste is made of rice and vegetable oil), put it on the loom and start weaving. The temperature of weaving is too cold or too hot. The yarn is easy to break, which leads to many broken ends and affects the quality of summer cloth. Most weavers are women (so Xiabu is also called Lady's Cloth). Generally, a piece of summer cloth can be woven in two days. With the development of technology, ramie yarn (generally 27-36 yarns) in modern ramie textile mills is used as warp yarn in some places, and the effect is also very good.

Song Ying Xing described two chapters in the second volume of Neifu, waist machine and summer clothes. In the Ming dynasty, workshops for making summer cloth were particularly developed, and waist machines were widely used to weave summer cloth. Weaver uses a piece of ripe leather as a backrest, and its stress is all at the waist and buttocks. According to the position of people to control the tension of warp, so it is called waist machine. Waist machines are divided into two types: low-grade machines and high-grade machines, and there was no improvement until the outbreak of the Anti-Japanese War. Towns and towns such as Wanzai, Xinyu, Fenyi, Guangfeng and Hunan use dwarf machines for production. Longchang 1958 changed the short machine into a high machine. Weavers have been handed down from generation to generation, and they are all manual and individual labor in family workshops, which has been passed down to this century. Rongchang Ramie's whole knitting process is woven with an ancient wooden short machine, which is stamped and shuttled.

(d) Using modern textile processing technology to improve the weaving technology of summer cloth.

1. The weaving of summer cloth is basically manual labor, with low product grade, labor-consuming and time-consuming, and the added value of the product is not high. Fenyi County, which mainly produces summer cloth in Jiangxi Province, has visited Korea many times. According to the use mode and export requirements of summer cloth at home and abroad, summer cloth is bleached, dyed or reshaped, and modern Korean textile technology is introduced from manual workshops for mechanized production, which can be printed and dyed into various colors in summer. It has become the only summer cloth floating printing production line in China, which greatly improves the added value of products. The specific process flow is as follows:

Process flow chart of modern textile technology weaving summer cloth

Degumming-warp-weaving-bleaching-dewatering

Printing and dyeing-drying and setting-finished product (quality inspection)-packaging

2. The traditional bleaching method of raw hemp is carried out according to the six methods described in the previous chapter, and some gum is removed, so that the raw hemp is white and soft, which is beneficial to yarn performance. However, these methods are labor-consuming and time-consuming, and the weather is uncertain. It is difficult to control the degumming amount and whiteness of raw hemp, which directly affects the quality of summer cloth. Jiangxi Institute of Hemp Science impregnated raw hemp with chemical agent "strong chlorine essence". The process is simple and the effect is remarkable, and the glue can be removed in a short time. Test results:

① Effects of different concentrations of strong chlorine essence on raw hemp gum: The strong chlorine essence was dissolved by spraying essence, and 200ml solutions of (A)2.5%, (B)5%, (C)7.5`% and (D) 10% were prepared respectively, and the same amount of distilled water was used as the control. The results show that A, B, C and D are different. The variance analysis of the data in table 1 1 is 18%, and the results are listed in table 12. The results of table 12 show that there is no significant difference between groups, but there is significant difference between treatments. Then, a new repolarization difference test was carried out among the treatments. The results (12) showed that the differences among the four treatments, B, C, D, A and E, all reached significant levels, indicating that soaking with 2.5%- 10% concentrated chlorine solution had obvious degumming effect, and the degumming effect of 5% concentration (B) was the best among the four treatments.

Table 1 1 Effects of fine chlorine stains with different concentrations on raw bast fibers; Repeat the sample processing; Dry weight kg; Dry weight g; Colloid weight g; Degumming rate%; Average degumming rate%; The significant difference is 5%1%AI17.53615.9601.576. 8.990ⅱ 17.499 15.92 1. 1.578 9.02 9.04 C Cⅲ 17.470 15.878 1.592 9. 1 1 B I 65 438+08.4868 3.26 3.26 D D III17.43416.864 0.570 3.27 Table 12 The source of variance analysis of degumming rate of raw hemp treated with different concentrations is DFSS MS F 0.0 1. Group 20.007 0.0035 0.24 1.8.65, treatment room 499 As can be seen from the table 13, the longer the soaking time, the higher the degumming rate, but there is little difference between soaking for 5 hours and 6 hours. According to the results of table 13, the analysis of variance shows that the difference between groups is not significant, but the difference between treatments is very significant. Then a new repolarization difference test is carried out in the treatment room, and the results are shown in table 13. From the table 13, it can be seen that the degumming rate of treatments T5 and T6 has reached a significant difference level, and the T 1 of treatments T5, T6, T4 and T2 has reached a very significant difference level, but there is no significant difference between treatments T5 and T6 and T5, T6, T4, T3 and T2.

Table 13 Effect of different soaking time of concentrated chlorine on bast fiber; After repeated sampling, the difference of dry weight Kg, dry weight g glue weight g degumming rate% and average degumming rate% was significant 5%1%t1I18.14916.470 654. 38+0.679 9.25ⅱ 18.203 16.523 1.680 9.23 9.24D Dⅲ 18.209 16.526 1.683 9.24 T2ⅰ 1 7.376 5438+0 654338 15.588 2.034 1 1.54 12.3 1 A Aⅲ 17.623 15.330 2.293 13.0 1 T6 I 18.089 15.90 strong chlorine has a very fast degumming effect on raw bast fibers, but strong chlorine is a very strong oxidant, does it have a negative impact on fibers? In order to solve this problem, the fiber strength of ramie raw hemp was tested. The test results show that the average fiber strength of different concentrations of concentrated chlorine A, B, C and D treatments and control E3 are 0.62 1, 0.595, 0.5 18, 0.494 and 0.632/tex, respectively, which obviously reduces the fiber strength and affects the yarn quality. The average fiber strength of T 1-T6 treatment with different soaking time is 0.6 12, 0.598, 0.539, 0.5 14, 0.493 and 0.435N/tex, respectively, that is, with the extension of soaking time, the fiber strength decreases obviously, while T65438+. 539N/tex, which is obviously lower than T 1 and T2, especially the fiber strength of T5 and T6 is below 0.5N/tex, and this kind of fiber is easy to break when added.

To sum up, the experimental results show that the concentrated chlorine impregnation of ramie raw hemp has a rapid and efficient degumming effect and has the function of whitening one after another. Spinning summer cloth is beneficial to improve the quality of summer cloth.

Impregnating raw hemp with strong chlorine essence with a concentration of 5% and soaking for 1-2 hours is the best treatment method, which can remove a proper amount of gum and maintain good strength.

The technology of impregnating ramie with concentrated chlorine is easy for farmers to master, but the residual liquid of concentrated chlorine has little pollution to the environment. In order to protect the environment, the residual liquid needs to be buried deeply.

Modern textile technology is used to weave summer cloth. The degumming methods of raw hemp mainly include chemical high-pressure cooking, fungal degumming and enzymatic degumming. These methods have some disadvantages, such as high cost, serious pollution, decreased fiber strength and long cycle. Although enzymatic degumming can avoid the above shortcomings, its cost is too high, and further experiments are needed to reduce the cost to meet the needs of industrial production. 200 1, Cinda Xiabu Company, a leading Xiabu enterprise in Fenyi County, Jiangxi Province, introduced and purchased the technical achievements of the School of Life Sciences of Wuhan University. After more than ten years' research, high-quality alkalophilic Bacillus with remarkable degumming effect was screened and produced from nearly a thousand kinds of microorganisms. Through small-scale, pilot-scale and industrial production tests, its economic, quality and ecological benefits are remarkable. According to the results of small-scale, pilot-scale and production demonstration, Bacillus acidophilus can produce pectinase and hemicellulase with high activity in the degumming process of raw hemp, and can remove gum from raw hemp fiber. Compared with the degumming methods commonly used in factories at present, the residual gum rate of degumming by Alcaligenes in treatment plants >: 3% & lt； 2.5% bundle fiber strength 3% <: 1.0% elongation < 6% >; 9% note: hemp degummed with Alcaligenes can spin more than 36 high count yarns, which is suitable for weaving summer cloth.

The main characteristics of degumming raw hemp by Alcaligenes sp. are short degumming period, fast strain division and propagation, and high pectinase and hemicellulase activities. The degumming cycle can be shortened from 7-8 days to less than 8 hours. The range of degumming is very wide and infinite. The strain is suitable for degumming at 35-50℃ and has strong anti-pollution ability. The strain can be reused for more than 10 times without pollution, and other degumming methods can only be used once, especially chemical high-pressure cooking, which is very polluted. Xinda Xiabu Factory, a group company, can produce 36 ramie yarn with this basophilic Bacillus and degummed ramie. The woven summer cloth has the following characteristics: bright, white, crisp and soft, bright color, strong hygroscopicity and good air permeability.